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      10-01-2017, 11:42 AM   #1
Dr1
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DIY Front Splitter Install/Bumper Removal

Recently purchased a splitter from OMG splitters. Can’t beat the price but I emailed for install advice and was told to check the forums... I didn’t find a satisfactory, comprehensive DIY in this forum so here it is (there is a brief write up on another site you can find with google).

Tools needed:
Pry tool
Pliers
Clamps
T30 torx
8mm socket
11mm socket
Size 4 hex
1/4” drill bit
Dremel (optional)
Strut braces (optional)
Locktite (optional)


Bumper removal:

Use pry tool to lift up headlight washer cap. Once it’s out enough to grasp, pull straight out and grab the washer nozzle with pliers. I used a rag between the pliers and nozzle to prevent damage. The washer cap will pop off easily and you will understand how they come off after looking closely at them. Be careful not to break them. Then gently allow the nozzle to retract back into the bumper.

Now turn your steering wheel (or remove wheels) to allow access to (3) 8mm bolts inside the front wheel wells. Two bolts go straight into the bumper, the third is found vertically at the bumper/fender seam. Repeat on other side.

There is a plastic clip on each side of the bumper where the bumper and fender meet. The clip essentially sandwiches a tab on bumper. Looking at the bumper/fender seam you can see this black plastic clip. Think of this as a cheeseburger. The top bun you can see in the fender gap. The bumper is the meat. The bottom bun is hidden behind the bumper. Get a pry tool in there and work the “meat” out.

Under the front of the car, remove the (11) 8mm bolts holding the bumper to the undertray. They are all easy accessed with the car on the ground.

Pop the hood and remove the (4) T30 Torx bolts above the kidney grills. The bumper should now easily peel away from the car.

Back under the front of the car you will notice that you can remove a small section of the undertray (pictured below). This small piece is held in with (10) 8mm bolts, also accessible with the car on the ground. You will attach this piece of undertray directly to the bumper/splitter before reinstalling the bumper/splitter back on the car.


Splitter install:

On a flat surface or sawhorses, line up the splitter with the bumper to your liking and use clamps to secure them. Mark holes to drill into the splitter using existing bumper holes as a template.

If you wish to reuse the small wind deflectors on the factory bumper you will need to notch the splitter to allow passthrough of the 2 outermost bumper bolts (pictured below).

I drilled 2 additional holes (fresh holes through the bumper) on each side for more secure attachment at the outer edges of the splitter (pictured below, new holes in bumper marked in green, existing in red).

Once all holes are drilled, securely attach the the splitter to the bumper/wind deflectors/undertray piece using the included hex bolts and 11mm lock nuts.

If you have strut braces, now is the time to attach them. I used preexisting holes (slits) in the front bumper (pictured below). Make sure you are satisfied with positioning before drilling out the strut brace holes splitter.


Reassembly:

Lay a blanket down in case you drop the bumper when reattaching. Follow the instructions in reverse starting with the (4) T30 torx.

When replacing the washer covers I used some string to lasso the washer nozzle (pictured below).


Best of luck!
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      10-01-2017, 05:11 PM   #2
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Looks great!!
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      01-25-2018, 09:44 AM   #3
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Was looking into doing the same install and was wondering if you still knew what size of the APR supports you used?
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2008 SGM 128i - 3 Stage IM - 130i Tune - Dinan Camber Plates - BMW PE - Injen Intake - 1M Mirrors - LCI Blacklines - M4 Spoiler - Blacked 263's - Aero Bumper - Aero Side Skirts - OMGSplitter - AFE Intake Scoops
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      01-25-2018, 09:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 519.E82 View Post
Was looking into doing the same install and was wondering if you still knew what size of the APR supports you used?
The ones I got from Carbon Mods are adjustable, 175-245mm.

Since these posts I have ordered a $100 eBay air dam that I will be fitting between the bumper and splitter. I'll have photos up this spring as soon I get it on.
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      01-28-2018, 02:13 PM   #5
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So we had some "warm" weather (45*) so I decided to toss on that $100 eBay air dam to close up the contour gaps between the bumper and splitter. Thought this would be 10 min max once I popped off the bumper cover.

3 hours later with a heat gun and a Dremel I finally got to a point where it almost fit flush. The fact that fitment is listed for e82 135i is a joke. The area where the air dam rises to fill the bumper contours are not in the correct location nor are they at the correct angles.


$100 eBay air dam key takeaways:

1) Do not buy if you think you'll get any aero advantage from this part alone. The air dam is completely hollow, not flat and smooth across the bottom.

2) Do not buy if you want plug and play using a couple existing factory screws. You need to remove the bumper cover and use at least 6 nuts and bolts to secure and get it to lay flush.

3) Do not buy if you want anything remotely close to factory fitment.

4) Consider buying if you are looking to cheaply achieve what I have with the air dam + splitter, but set aside some time to get it to "fit."

*NOTE* The closeup image where you can see gaps is the AFTER photo with material cut away. Before trimming there was a 3" gap between the middle third of the bumper air dam. The other closeup image I was able to disguise the gaps with the camera angle
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      03-08-2018, 10:52 PM   #6
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Thanks for the rope trick to hold the nozzles out when replacing the caps. Genius!
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      03-08-2018, 11:08 PM   #7
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More support

Quick update. I added a third, central support because there was some flex in the center of the splitter. Flex is bad. This time I went with a $30 Amazon support which did the trick.

Side note: With the bumper cover off, now is a good time to add a Turner tow strap. Otherwise, the OEM opening is too small get the threaded end in which Turner fails to mention in the description.

Here is an updated image.
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      03-15-2018, 02:11 PM   #8
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So the turnbuckles are just attached to the plastic bumper cover?

Put a camera on the front facing that area and watch how bad it deforms at speed. I think you'll find a more solid mounting point after that.
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      03-18-2018, 12:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
So the turnbuckles are just attached to the plastic bumper cover?

Put a camera on the front facing that area and watch how bad it deforms at speed. I think you'll find a more solid mounting point after that.
I'll give it a go this spring and report back
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      09-30-2018, 12:03 AM   #10
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Thanks for this detailed DIY. I’ve just mounted mine up following your lead. Jake from my1series.com sent me a pic of his car at 160mph and damn was there massive splitter flex And the hood lift was unreal. Anyhow, it held up and didn’t cause any handling issues, but I’d love to see this in CF or something.

It looks cool but, yeah, it’s flimsy. My dog could stand on it without it ripping off... but prob not me.

Has anyone seen the Velocity Aeroworks Splitter? They make a full ubdertray version that you mount to the frame. I’ll prob explore that or have APR or AJ Hartman in NJ make me a splitter. http://velocityaerowerks.com/product/bmw-135i-1m-replica-front-splitter/

Again, awesome post!

Image from Jake.
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      10-01-2018, 12:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relegate View Post
Thanks for this detailed DIY. I’ve just mounted mine up following your lead. Jake from my1series.com sent me a pic of his car at 160mph and damn was there massive splitter flex And the hood lift was unreal. Anyhow, it held up and didn’t cause any handling issues, but I’d love to see this in CF or something.

I get hood lift starting around 130ish. I can tell this every time because it pulls my hoodliner out from the passenger side.
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