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      09-24-2013, 11:12 AM   #1
fastauto
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Has anyone replaced their clutch yet?

How many miles were on the clock? What was your average driving style? What mods do you have? Did BMW replace under warranty?

I have about 21k on the clock and I feel like my clutch is slipping. I have zero mods except a clutch stop and a CDV delete. WOT is just not feeling the same. Very delayed response.

Thoughts?
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      09-24-2013, 01:23 PM   #2
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24k miles slipping COBB stg2+ no warranty for me...
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      09-24-2013, 07:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
24k miles slipping COBB stg2+ no warranty for me...
thats crazy. for a clutch to start to slip at that many miles is crazy. why no warranty at 24k miles?
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      09-24-2013, 07:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian///M View Post
Best slip test is if you cruise in 4th, then downshift to 3rd and WOT. If worn clutch, this should show it up.
that is when i notice it most. do you think a dealer would replace a slipping clutch or do i have to wait for this thing to crap out on me all together?
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      09-24-2013, 07:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian///M View Post
May also be an oil leak onto the clutch, which is a known issue.

Call dealer and arrange a drive with their tech to demonstrate the issue.

Mine has had chronic slippage on a really hard 0-100 run, but have not been able to recreate the situation since. Perhaps it just overheated.

Seems more and more 1Ms are having clutch issues, even at stock power levels.
the reason why i kept the engine stock was to avoid issues like this. at 21k this is nuts. i will try the dealer route but the last time i was there i had issues with the manger. they ended up replacing my fuel pump, my plugs and my injectors. hopefully they will let me take them for a run up to 100 so i can show them. i wonder how many other people are dealing with a clutch replacement at 20k. that blows my mind.
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      09-25-2013, 02:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastauto View Post
the reason why i kept the engine stock was to avoid issues like this. at 21k this is nuts. i will try the dealer route but the last time i was there i had issues with the manger. they ended up replacing my fuel pump, my plugs and my injectors. hopefully they will let me take them for a run up to 100 so i can show them. i wonder how many other people are dealing with a clutch replacement at 20k. that blows my mind.
Some people are going 100k on oem clutch but one of the main slipping clutch reasons are crankshaft rear seal leaking oil on the clutch, so when replacing the clutch you MUST replace the seal. Another reason is DMF = dual mass flywheel which is known to fail on those cars. Search on the forums and you will find lots of posts about slipping clutch.
Do you feel vibration going WOT in 4th gear from low rpms?
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      09-25-2013, 08:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Some people are going 100k on oem clutch but one of the main slipping clutch reasons are crankshaft rear seal leaking oil on the clutch, so when replacing the clutch you MUST replace the seal. Another reason is DMF = dual mass flywheel which is known to fail on those cars. Search on the forums and you will find lots of posts about slipping clutch.
Do you feel vibration going WOT in 4th gear from low rpms?
no vibration, just slip.
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      09-25-2013, 09:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastauto View Post
no vibration, just slip.
check if there is some oil between gearbox and engine this could be the reason
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      09-25-2013, 09:48 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
check if there is some oil between gearbox and engine this could be the reason
I am going to check that out this weekend. i think what you are saying makes sense. easy fix?
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      09-25-2013, 12:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastauto View Post
I am going to check that out this weekend. i think what you are saying makes sense. easy fix?
Sorry but NO. To get there you have to put down the transmission and remove the flywheel after that it is really easy and cheap. But in that case you will have burned/oily clutch disc which will have to be replaced and can be overheated flywheel which is also better to replace if you are there. All of this should be covered by warranty.
If not...
Would be wise to upgrade your clutch with aftermarket for future.
SPEC stg2+ or ClutchMasters oem DMF or single mass if you dont mind noise.

P.S. Please report back interesting to know.
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      09-25-2013, 12:15 PM   #11
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I upgraded to Clutchmaster FX300. Much better grip!
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      09-25-2013, 12:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedtwin View Post
I upgraded to Clutchmaster FX300. Much better grip!
Which flywheel?
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      09-25-2013, 02:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Sorry but NO. To get there you have to put down the transmission and remove the flywheel after that it is really easy and cheap. But in that case you will have burned/oily clutch disc which will have to be replaced and can be overheated flywheel which is also better to replace if you are there. All of this should be covered by warranty.
If not...
Would be wise to upgrade your clutch with aftermarket for future.
SPEC stg2+ or ClutchMasters oem DMF or single mass if you dont mind noise.

P.S. Please report back interesting to know.
will do. I am going to set an appointment next week.
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      09-25-2013, 03:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian///M View Post
Best slip test is if you cruise in 4th, then downshift to 3rd and WOT. If worn clutch, this should show it up.
So when you do this test and you have a slipping clutch...it will just rev but not accelerate?
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      09-25-2013, 03:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Which flywheel?
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      09-26-2013, 12:55 AM   #16
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Just yesterday evening I drived my car (11 000 km milage) Drived quite slowly and revs went up very fast after 4k rpm but speed growed not so fast)) of course it' a clutch (
The clutch is SACHS now. Stock clutch had been changed on 6k because my specs - 406 h.p. and 600 N/m
One my friend has a milage 45k km and still on stock clutch (50% of his milage is track usage). The engine is stock. He just installed JB4 and short shifter about 1k km ago.
Another one has about 25k km and stock clutch was killed after installing JB4. It seems that it's not possible to keep such torque on stock clutch.
Hope my flywheel is still alive... ) There are no clutch on stock in our dealers and the waiting is about 2 - 4 weeks.
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      09-26-2013, 02:39 AM   #17
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My clutch didn't start slipping until around 48,000 miles (No typo there). Also, I was fully modded putting down around 435whp (450+wtq) for about 40,000 of those miles.
Once I started slipping I went back to stock and the clutch was able to catch without problems.
I am way past my warranty.
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      09-26-2013, 08:45 AM   #18
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SPEC Stg. 2 + with steel single-mass flywheel here.

Quite happy with set up.

Neil
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      09-26-2013, 12:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
SPEC Stg. 2 + with steel single-mass flywheel here.

Quite happy with set up.

Neil
Damn I'm afraid to go this route because of the chatter noise... Could you describe/comment how it feels how loud it is on which RPM's? Maybe you have some vids?
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      09-26-2013, 01:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Damn I'm afraid to go this route because of the chatter noise... Could you describe/comment how it feels how loud it is on which RPM's? Maybe you have some vids?
No video, but I went with the heavier steel fly to minimize chattering.

It's present when in neutral (without depressed clutch) at idle, but I find it pretty mild and unobtrusive.

Neil
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      09-27-2013, 02:56 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
No video, but I went with the heavier steel fly to minimize chattering.

It's present when in neutral (without depressed clutch) at idle, but I find it pretty mild and unobtrusive.

Neil
One member said that there is also chatter at 2200 rpm driving the car. Please be honest and rate comfort/noise level compared to oem dual mass flywheel. I know that it is very reliable better response much better grip and longevity. But how about lets say driving slow in the city and noise when people outside walking close to your car?
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      09-27-2013, 03:00 AM   #22
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Got the same problem on 33000 km. I run the PTF st.2+ around 450 hp and 660 Nm.
I usually happens when I go from 3rg to the 4th gear on around 6000-6500 RPM on the maximum power. Now I'm thinking about getting the Spec st.2+ and single mass steel flywheel. Plus will have the CDV deleted.

I tryied the car with the Sash clutch and stock flywheel (CDV deleted) and it was hard to go slow because of vibrations of the flywheel. When you go on traffic jam this will be hard to handle this, that is whe I want to change my flywheel, to reduse this vibration on the low RPM.
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