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      11-26-2015, 09:35 PM   #23
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Just ordered a bunch of stuff from FCP euro, will arrive next week:

Code:
BMW Clutch Kit - Genuine BMW             21207603248   1   $399.99	
BMW Clutch Alignment Tool - Genuine BMW  83300495449   1   $28.99
BMW Bell Housing Bolt - Genuine BMW      23001222894   5   $20.55
Still need to get a flywheel though
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      11-26-2015, 09:38 PM   #24
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OEM 135i or 550i clutch?
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      11-26-2015, 09:46 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by totti84 View Post
OEM 135i or 550i clutch?
I went with the 550i clutch
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      11-28-2015, 02:05 AM   #26
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I was looking into this because my clutch slips when I'm pushing it and I noticed the 1M has a different part number which is only shared with the E90/E91 335xi models. Anyone know the deal here? Would the 550i be better or even work..?

1M part no: 21217603250.
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      11-28-2015, 05:47 PM   #27
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550i clutch works well. Can support more torque as well so if you are modded you'll be set.
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      12-06-2015, 10:24 PM   #28
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My 550i clutch came in the mail last week.

Got the clutch kit and alignment tool and steel transmission bolts:

QTY PRICE DESCRIPTION
1 $399.99 BMW Clutch Kit - Genuine BMW 21207603248
1 $28.99 BMW Clutch Alignment Tool - Genuine BMW 83300495449
5 $20.55 BMW Bell Housing Bolt - Genuine BMW 23001222894

Prices in USD
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      12-07-2015, 05:16 PM   #29
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Now take the flywheel, pressure plate, thrust bearing and fork and go and get it balanced before installing it

You will be surprised how much better it will be.
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      01-09-2016, 09:44 PM   #30
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Just dropped the cash on a new dual mass!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-135i-...MAAOSweuxWRTpA

This listing came up and its a bit cheaper than the others.

Total out of pocket was $831.41 AUD

Hopefully includes the flywheel bolts. Won't be a big deal for me if they aren't but would be nice.
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      01-20-2016, 10:03 PM   #31
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Received my flywheel today! The package came with only the flywheel and nothing else. You need new flywheel bolts and they are $6 each from the local BMW dealer, not that bad considering they're $4 USD each from FCP euro.

FYI the part number for the flywheel bolts are 11227520706 and you need 8 of them. I will also be fabricating a flywheel locking tool. I have printed out a picture from the ISTA service manual and will use it as a template to grind a piece of steel into the correct shape:



Will be putting the clutch in on the Australia day long weekend
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      01-21-2016, 11:25 PM   #32
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Got the bolts today from Waverley BMW. Was $46.96 for the 8 bolts.

Its a T60 M12x1.5 threaded bolt. Can't see why these have to be replaced though. The ISTA documentation says they're 120nm so they're not torque to yield. Might be because they are red loctited?
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      01-22-2016, 12:31 AM   #33
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Maybe put together a complete list of part numbers for people that wont read through the thread mate, will be handy. even update the first post mate.
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      01-22-2016, 01:02 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by questionable View Post
Maybe put together a complete list of part numbers for people that wont read through the thread mate, will be handy. even update the first post mate.
Good idea, updated!
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      01-23-2016, 12:11 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Got the bolts today from Waverley BMW. Was $46.96 for the 8 bolts.

Its a T60 M12x1.5 threaded bolt. Can't see why these have to be replaced though. The ISTA documentation says they're 120nm so they're not torque to yield. Might be because they are red loctited?
If they're loctited that's probably why (the bolts may 'twist' and be fatigued when removing them, then if you were to reuse them they could snap when torquing them up)

Having said that you would think 12mm bolts at 120nm should be OK to reuse...

They kinda look like a generic bolt, I dare say you could have gone to a bolt specialist and got the same bolt for a cheaper price... (I paid big $ for my half shaft and drive shaft bolts also though as i didnt want to stuff around chasing bolt suppliers)

G/L with the swap Vince, how long do you reckon its going to take you? Shame I didn't live close by would love to give you a hand!
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      01-23-2016, 05:27 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
If they're loctited that's probably why (the bolts may 'twist' and be fatigued when removing them, then if you were to reuse them they could snap when torquing them up)

Having said that you would think 12mm bolts at 120nm should be OK to reuse...

They kinda look like a generic bolt, I dare say you could have gone to a bolt specialist and got the same bolt for a cheaper price... (I paid big $ for my half shaft and drive shaft bolts also though as i didnt want to stuff around chasing bolt suppliers)

G/L with the swap Vince, how long do you reckon its going to take you? Shame I didn't live close by would love to give you a hand!
Thanks Shane,

I started the install today, had to do a walnut blast in the morning and only started around 2pm, around 8pm we had the gearbox, clutch and flywheel out of the car. Boy its pretty hard work. Taking apart the car I suppose isn't difficult, its just very tedious and time consuming on the ground. Hands get cut up and you get dirt in your eyes from all the dirt on the underside of the car

I'd say this is easily a 10-12 hour job on the floor on jack stands, a hoist would probably halve that time.

There was a very frustrating moment when I thought I may have stripped one of the etorx bolts on top of the bell housing. You have to undo the bolt from the top of the transmission and is a small bolt at a bad angle. So when you try and remove the bolt it tends to slip off and round the head. Somehow I managed to undo it.

I also had to machine down my e18 socket because you really need a thin wall socket to undo the E18 bolts. So lucky I had a lathe! You would be hard pressed to find an etorx at a walk in shop in Aus, let alone a thin wall one. If you didn't have a lathe I suppose you could grind down the socket with a grinder, but that would take forever!

Will finish off the job tomorrow. Big thanks to einserM for coming over and lending a hand!

Will also update with pics of my old parts. My clutch, flywheel and pressure plate were all totally stuffed.
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      01-23-2016, 05:45 AM   #37
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Good stuff, you're braver than me I would never attempt a clutch swap at home on jackstands

DIY FTW

Good luck with the rest of the install!
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      01-24-2016, 08:17 AM   #38
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Got the clutch installed this weekend! 2nd day of the install took us all day

Heres the car as we worked on it:



First snag we hit was that the starter bolt that you have to access from the top of the car was very difficult to remove. The bolt just didn't want to break free and the weird angle makes it hard to keep the head on straight. Kept on slipping off and almost ruined the head of the bolt. i thought that this would be the start of a real nightware but I kept at it, and found a way to hold the ratchet on straight and eventually put enough force with my fingers to crack the bolt free.

Then as we proceeded to undo the transmission bolts, we discovered the aluminium bolts were E18 but the head is actually oversized for an M12 bolt. This is to prevent damage to the head of the aluminium bolts, but it also meant there is hardly any space for a socket against the bell housing. My E18 socket was way too big and so I had to machine it down on my lathe. I bascially machined it to the diameter of an E16 socket. I have never machined a socket before, they are hardened and burned up a new carbide bit fairly quickly.



Not much space underneath and my transmission jack adapter was not very good for this job. The adapter sat on top of the jack and made it way too high. We lowered the gearbox with the trans jack and pushed it onto the floor. Then we rolled the transmission on the floor to get it clear of the car.

Took quite a lot of jiggling to get the gearbox free, turns out the best technique is to put a screwdriver inbetween the engine and gearbox and pry and jiggle at the same time. Can be removed reasonably easy once you figure it out.

Here are some pics of the gearbox:




The stock clutch was totally rooted, almost completely out of friction material



Hot spots/burn marks present on the pressure plate:




I used a grinder and made up a replica of the BMW flywheel locking tool. This is needed to prevent the engine from turning when removing/torquing bolts. Not perfect but fit well enough in the teeth of the flywheel to stop it from moving:



Heres the back of the engine, rear main seal looked fine with no leaking. Did not replace the seal. Note the dowel ring that locates the flywheel:



Heres a picture of the shiny flywheel torqued down. I put two permanent marker dots on each bolt. 1 dot for initial torque, (to ensure the plate is on straight) then another dot to indicate final torque. This is to ensure I don't forget to torque something.




The clutch was installed with the alignment tool in place, then the pressure plate was attached. New pressure plates come with a locking ring that holds the pressure plate fingers. Once you install the pressure plate, you remove the locking ring and it releases tension on the fingers. This means if you do everything correctly you do not need to use a special tool to ensure the self adjusting clutch mechanism does not engage when tightening down the pressure plate.



Then spent the rest of the day reassembling the car. The exhaust took forever, that thing was a major pain to get fitted. All the bolts were rooted from all the heat cycles and I didn't have new ones. The exhaust flanges were about half a mm misaligned so the threads kept getting stuffed on them. Bought some temp bolts from Bunnings. Have an exhaust leak now though. Will have to sort that out.
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      01-24-2016, 08:24 AM   #39
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Test drove the car after installation and was impressed. The car did not feel like it changed. If someone swapped out the clutch without telling me I would probably not be able to tell the difference. Pedal engagement feels stock, and the engagement is stock. The pedal actually feels the same if not a little lighter than it was before. Might be because the self adjusting mechanism on the old pressure plate was almost maxed out and the pedal becomes harder?

All in all, very impressed, minimal carnage to the car and everything works properly except for the exhaust leak on one of the downpipes. We did pretty well considering we did this job on jackstands.

So many cuts on my hands and arms, hands arms neck and abs are all sore from working under the car for so long, would have been much better on a hoist!
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      01-24-2016, 09:28 AM   #40
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Turned out really well, I'm really happy with how we went. It's similar to jdm cars I've done this on in the past but with added complexity of unique bolts per position in the bellhousing, little brackets, extensive heat shielding and undertrays, and the exhaust flanges are very annoying if they're slighting out of alignment with one another.

Not a job for the feint hearted on jackstands and we needed some 'specialty' tools to get the job done but it turned out great.

Happy to help out mate.
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      01-26-2016, 05:49 PM   #41
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Pic of the stock flywheel. Looks like a couple hot spots but the factory machining marks are still present. Would probably need to be machined to clean it up. Wonder what it would look like if I just scrubbed it with a scotch pad.

The dual mass mechanism appeared to be in good condition and there did not seem to be any loose movement or play.
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      01-26-2016, 06:01 PM   #42
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IF I were replacing the clutch... one thing I have not seen anyone mention replacing is the rear crankshaft seal. That seal is known to leak. You will probably need a seal puller tool and a tool to press in the new crankshaft seal.
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      01-26-2016, 06:06 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Pic of the stock flywheel. Looks like a couple hot spots but the factory machining marks are still present. Would probably need to be machined to clean it up. Wonder what it would look like if I just scrubbed it with a scotch pad.

The dual mass mechanism appeared to be in good condition and there did not seem to be any loose movement or play.
Yeah that face doesnt look too bad, looks simple to machine to me though

If you had your time over again would you have replaced the DM flywheel or just reused it?

I'm at 80k kays, and will take me another 10 years to get to the kays your car has but admittedly im putting out a tad more power than you..
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      01-26-2016, 06:31 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
IF I were replacing the clutch... one thing I have not seen anyone mention replacing is the rear crankshaft seal. That seal is known to leak. You will probably need a seal puller tool and a tool to press in the new crankshaft seal.
I inspected the seal and looked fine to me. I did not want to change it if I didn't have to, much more chance of creating a leak in my opinion. You have to unbolt 2 bolts on the engine sump and two bolts on the crankshaft seal plate. The plate removes and you can remove the crank seal by hand. Since the plate is part of the surface for the oil pan you have to be very careful not to damage the gasket. The installs I've seen use gasket sealer on the surface to prevent leaks. Sounds dodgy and a decent chance of creating a leak on the oil pan to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Yeah that face doesnt look too bad, looks simple to machine to me though

If you had your time over again would you have replaced the DM flywheel or just reused it?

I'm at 80k kays, and will take me another 10 years to get to the kays your car has but admittedly im putting out a tad more power than you..
Yeah the face just looks a little discoloured but looks like it might just be clutch material. Doesn't look too hard to machine to me, only the flywheel toothed ring is the sprung so it doesn't look too hard to clamp on a big lathe. You really don't want to get any metal shavings inside of the dual mass mechanism though, I think LUK quoted that as one of the reasons why you shouldn't machine it.

I would still have just bought a new one. Would prefer to have a new flywheel ready and just do everything in one weekend, rather than having the car's guts hanging on the garage and stressing me out. If I instead bought a 2nd hand flywheel and machined it I wouldn't have saved much money.

In your case, your flywheel has low kms and its not your daily driver, might make more sense for you to get yours machined.
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