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      06-30-2019, 06:44 AM   #1
Dackelone
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Arrow 1M/M3 tie rods on a 135i ?

Hi Guys,

I am about to do the M3 front control arms and thrust rods on my 135i. My tie rods are pretty rusty... so I thought I'd might as well replace the tie rods "while I am in there". I was thinking maybe I should upgrade to the M3 tie rods?

Is this possible? Do they bolt up?

The one negative thing is that the 135i tie rods from LEMFÖRDER only cost 48 euros for the complete link WITH the bellows and clamps while the M3 links cost about 130 euros for just the tie rod link(no bellows). Hummm... decisions.

I'm leaning to just go with 135i tie rods... but I am open to any opinions.

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      07-01-2019, 07:24 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Hi Guys,

I am about to do the M3 front control arms and thrust rods on my 135i. My tie rods are pretty rusty... so I thought I'd might as well replace the tie rods "while I am in there". I was thinking maybe I should upgrade to the M3 tie rods?

Is this possible? Do they bolt up?

The one negative thing is that the 135i tie rods from LEMFÖRDER only cost 48 euros for the complete link WITH the bellows and clamps while the M3 links cost about 130 euros for just the tie rod link(no bellows). Hummm... decisions.

I'm leaning to just go with 135i tie rods... but I am open to any opinions.

Dackel
The M3 inner tie rod is too long. You need stock inner tie rods.

The M3 and stock outer tie rods honestly look identical. Don't waste your money here.

Last edited by bbnks2; 08-07-2019 at 11:25 AM..
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      07-01-2019, 10:20 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
The M3 inner tie rod is too long. You need stock inner tie rods.

The M3 and stock inner and outer tie rods honestly look identical. Don't waste your money here.
Thanks. That is what I was thinking as well.

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      07-01-2019, 10:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Thanks. That is what I was thinking as well.

Dack
You could also look at the Meyle HD tie rods. Not sure if its worth the effort tho. I have a set I need to install but decided to wait until the stock tie rods start showing wear.
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      07-01-2019, 11:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeineken View Post
You could also look at the Meyle HD tie rods. Not sure if its worth the effort tho. I have a set I need to install but decided to wait until the stock tie rods start showing wear.
I don't suppose your have a part number do you>? Or where would you buy those from ???

thanks,
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      07-01-2019, 12:42 PM   #6
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Not sure there's any real difference between the M rods and 135i other than length. I'd definitely recommend the HD, I like the endlinks quite a bit.
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      07-01-2019, 04:27 PM   #7
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ShocknAwe Yeineken bbnks2 MightyMouseTech


Thanks guys for the input. A quick Google search and I found the part numbers for the MEYLE HD tie rods...

The complete tie rods are part numbers:

316 030 0017/HD and 316 030 0018/HD


Its weird that they specify a Left & Right tie rod, bc BMW does not. At least not on RealOEM.com

Since I am living in Germany I order a lot of my car parts from AutoDoc.de they have very good prices and quality OEM parts. Not sure IF they ship to the USA but I like using them over here.




MEYLE-HD Quality, Vorderachse rechts (right side tie rod)
Artikelnummer: 316 030 0018/HD
Fahrzeugverwendungsnummer(n): MTA0162HD

EAN-Nummer(n): 4040074488942

Name:  MEYLE Spurstange  HDtie rod .jpg
Views: 2300
Size:  5.5 KB

https://www.autodoc.de/meyle/2121541


found here...
https://www.meyle.com/en/service-cen...ine-catalogue/

I just plugged in: BMW e82, then scrolled down to 135i 225KW(306 PS) for my car.


I was gonna go with the Febi Bilstein tie rod kit since it comes with the rubber bellows and clamps. But I am not sure IF it is also a HD or just OE part. Interesting its the same part for left and right while the Meyle unit HAS a left and right designation. ?

Febi/Bilstein... ProKit, Vorderachse rechts
Artikelnummer: 40516
Fahrzeugverwendungsnummer(n): 40516

EAN-Nummer(n): 4027816405160
Name:  Febi Bilstein tie rod kit .jpg
Views: 2696
Size:  9.8 KB
https://www.autodoc.de/febi-bilstein/7538871



And I also found that TRW also makes a HD tie rod assembly as well. Humm decisions, decisions.

TRW
TRW Spurstange
mit Zubehör
Artikelnummer: JRA561 & JRA560
Fahrzeugverwendungsnummer(n): JRA561

EAN-Nummer(n): 3322937557639

Name:  TRW tie rod .png
Views: 2637
Size:  26.0 KB
https://www.autodoc.de/trw/2200155

The prices are all about the same... just under 98 euros for a pair of tie rods.


I just found that Meyle also sells the boot/clamps kit separately...

300 620 0000 for 6,31 € each

MEYLE Faltenbalgsatz, Lenkung
Vorderachse rechts, Vorderachse links, Thermoplast, mit Zubehör, MEYLE-ORIGINAL Quality
Artikelnummer: 300 620 0000
Fahrzeugverwendungsnummer(n): MSK0019



Also... One other question... When you guys installed your (complete)tie rods, the inner and outer... is there a washer that you need to crimp/bend over to prevent the tie rod from unscrewing from the rack? Or did you just use some blue thread loctite ?


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      07-01-2019, 04:43 PM   #8
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I'm a pretty big fan of TRW consistency in quality control. Not sure if Meyle matches but I'd imagine they do. I also use a lot of Febi parts and they are fine, but I'd assume it's a standard part unless HD is specified.

That said... What does HD actually mean? I always wondered if it was just a marketing ploy.
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      07-01-2019, 05:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
I'm a pretty big fan of TRW consistency in quality control. Not sure if Meyle matches but I'd imagine they do. I also use a lot of Febi parts and they are fine, but I'd assume it's a standard part unless HD is specified.

That said... What does HD actually mean? I always wondered if it was just a marketing ploy.
I think HD means Heavy Duty. Maybe it's just a marketing ploy... but at least on AutoDoc.de they do show a difference in part numbers. And the HD parts are about ~10 euros more per unit.

Upon further parts searching... it looks like all of the above tie rods ARE HD units. I went back and found just the regular OEM parts on that site as well.

I think I will order the TRW ones, since my front suspension ///M bits are also TRW units. And I will order two of the rubber bellow kits from Meyle.

One other thought... there is one other company that is well known for suspension parts and that is: LEMFÖRDER. They also make tie rods but are slightly more expensive at ~15 to 20 euros more per tie rod. Not sure why the added costs. But I thought I would mention this.

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      07-01-2019, 05:14 PM   #10
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May be circumstance but I think the cost is higher for whatever company produces that particular OE part for BMW. Then a bit lower for those not the primary distributors. Seems to vary by part.
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      07-02-2019, 05:32 PM   #11
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Just thought I'd update your guys... I ended up ordering the TRW HD tie rods and Meyle replacement rubber bellows kit.

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      07-02-2019, 09:35 PM   #12
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There are left and right outer tie rods. Really the only difference is the pinch bolt. With left and right versions, the pinch bolt will be towards the front on both sides.

Good choice on TRW. They seem to make good quality OEM suspension parts.

I should also say, you are going to love the M front arms. What a beautiful difference they make.
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      07-03-2019, 05:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
There are left and right outer tie rods. Really the only difference is the pinch bolt. With left and right versions, the pinch bolt will be towards the front on both sides.

Good choice on TRW. They seem to make good quality OEM suspension parts.

I should also say, you are going to love the M front arms. What a beautiful difference they make.
Thanks. Yeah... so far I have installed the Bilsteins and Eibachs with the rear(upper) M control arm links... those read links got rid of my bump steer in mid corner and really firm up the rear end wiggle that was there before.

In the front I only have installed the Dina camber plates(another 0.75 degrees of neg camber) and I am amazed on how much better the front end grips. Under steer is gone. I am a little worried IF I will have too much negative camber when I install the front M control arms and thrust rods. I'm trusting so many 1Addicts can't all be wrong!

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      07-03-2019, 09:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
There are left and right outer tie rods. Really the only difference is the pinch bolt. With left and right versions, the pinch bolt will be towards the front on both sides.

Good choice on TRW. They seem to make good quality OEM suspension parts.

I should also say, you are going to love the M front arms. What a beautiful difference they make.
Thanks. Yeah... so far I have installed the Bilsteins and Eibachs with the rear(upper) M control arm links... those read links got rid of my bump steer in mid corner and really firm up the rear end wiggle that was there before.

In the front I only have installed the Dina camber plates(another 0.75 degrees of neg camber) and I am amazed on how much better the front end grips. Under steer is gone. I am a little worried IF I will have too much negative camber when I install the front M control arms and thrust rods. I'm trusting so many [COLOR="Red"]1[/COLOR]Addicts can't all be wrong!

Dackel
It will only be better. -2.0 to -2.5 in the front seems like sweet spot.
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      07-04-2019, 03:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
It will only be better. -2.0 to -2.5 in the front seems like sweet spot.
Cool, thanks.


Dinan camber plates...
Name:  20190604_203842.jpg
Views: 2480
Size:  95.7 KB

factory slots at the body/strut area...
Name:  20190609_162525.jpg
Views: 2556
Size:  87.9 KB


So I guess the way I will have to adjust camber(side to side) is by loosening the upper strut bearing and sliding the strut in or out. ? Right now I have them all the way in(to the engine). But I guess my shop might have to play around with them to get an equal L->R camber value. ?


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      07-04-2019, 04:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
It will only be better. -2.0 to -2.5 in the front seems like sweet spot.
Cool, thanks.


Dinan camber plates...
Attachment 2091961

factory slots at the body/strut area...
Attachment 2091962


So I guess the way I will have to adjust camber(side to side) is by loosening the upper strut bearing and sliding the strut in or out. ? Right now I have them all the way in(to the engine). But I guess my shop might have to play around with them to get an equal L->R camber value. ?


Dack
Exactly. You did put a gasket between the Dinan plate and body correct?
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      07-04-2019, 04:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Exactly. You did put a gasket between the Dinan plate and body correct?
Yep!


I installed the 1M strut bar brace too with the ///M hats. All new bolts as well. Looks good. Car handles really well right now. But I still get that "wobble" feeling at really high speeds when I go over a dip or bump at say 130 mph or more. You can feel the front end toe change and the suspension goes thru it's compression and rebound. I hope the ///M control arms eliminate that.

Name:  20190610_083434.jpg
Views: 2518
Size:  130.0 KB

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      07-04-2019, 11:06 PM   #18
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Maybe its your tires ?
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      07-05-2019, 01:36 PM   #19
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Maybe its your tires ?
???
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      07-06-2019, 12:59 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Exactly. You did put a gasket between the Dinan plate and body correct?
Yep!


I installed the 1M strut bar brace too with the ///M hats. All new bolts as well. Looks good. Car handles really well right now. But I still get that "wobble" feeling at really high speeds when I go over a dip or bump at say 130 mph or more. You can feel the front end toe change and the suspension goes thru it's compression and rebound. I hope the ///M control arms eliminate that.

Attachment 2092016

Dack
The M3 thrust rods will take care of the elastic feel in the front end . Helps tame the rear too and makes the whole car more predictable and solid. They also introduce a fair amount of NVH. I ended up switching back to stock mostly because of our crappy roads and a nagging wife. if you have good roads where you live , you'll love them .
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      07-06-2019, 02:31 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
???
The wobble feeling
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      07-06-2019, 08:56 AM   #22
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So, knowing Dack, this car is done and back on the road.

How did the alignment go?

How do you like the feel?

To busy carving up the mountain passes?
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