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      12-16-2017, 11:31 AM   #89
microtap
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Hey all,

I have a 2013 335is and have been plagued with this issue since they day I bought it CPO. I have COBB on there now, and sometimes resetting throttle adaptation does seem to resolve it temporarily, but then again, sometimes it does not. It's very frustrating and I'm almost definitely going to sell it before my CPO warranty is out because I can't stand it. Like others mentioned, it can be really dangerous, in the sense of when you make split second decisions and/or need to go immediately, it won't happen. First time I really noticed it, was coming up to stopped traffic, decided to change lanes and go around as there was room to get over. Well, plenty of time that is if my car decided to go without thinking for what felt like 1-2 seconds. Guy in other lane had to slam on his brakes and I felt and looked like an ass.

I was hoping to find a fix, but looks like everyone stopped posting in September.

Anyone have a definite solution for our DCTs?

Thanks.
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      12-16-2017, 04:25 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microtap View Post
Hey all,

I have a 2013 335is and have been plagued with this issue since they day I bought it CPO. I have COBB on there now, and sometimes resetting throttle adaptation does seem to resolve it temporarily, but then again, sometimes it does not. It's very frustrating and I'm almost definitely going to sell it before my CPO warranty is out because I can't stand it. Like others mentioned, it can be really dangerous, in the sense of when you make split second decisions and/or need to go immediately, it won't happen. First time I really noticed it, was coming up to stopped traffic, decided to change lanes and go around as there was room to get over. Well, plenty of time that is if my car decided to go without thinking for what felt like 1-2 seconds. Guy in other lane had to slam on his brakes and I felt and looked like an ass.

I was hoping to find a fix, but looks like everyone stopped posting in September.

Anyone have a definite solution for our DCTs?

Thanks.
Here's my thread on what worked for me:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1402323

It's been months now with the fix and 99.9% of the time the DCT has been behaving like everyone said it should. I get the occasional hiccup but not nearly as bad as it once was. The fix has now made me not regret so much the fact I have a DCT. I only regret having a DCT now because I do miss rowing through gears at times. I also still have the Dinan S2 tune in my car.
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      01-28-2018, 09:14 PM   #91
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guys, i saw that it's a very old problem with lag.

so, may be my hint will help you.

try to add 1 liter of dct oil higher, than normal level.




why?
read below
i had a problem on our tracktool when we swapped dct first time to our n54.

in first test runs i've found that when i'm trying to accelerate immediately after braking (even in street driving), car can lagging for a second or two.
and small retreat - i usually drives on two-pedals cars with two legs, so i have no delay between pressing.
another retreat - our car has 6 pot large brembos on front, with 275/275 semislick setup .

so, when i saw this lag, i've start to make it again and again easily (yep, this is all about 50kmh speeds on a city streets and braking till 10kmh).
and in after some hard braking i've even make warning on dash and car went to limp mode. than i've switch it off and start again, and drove like it has no problem..
and than again and again, and... it looks like starvation, when your petrol gone away from the pump.
so, i've made a test to check this assumption (i've reading forum and saw that people had this problem on low speeds, but!) i've accelerated to high speed (150-180kmh) and make hard braking on 3 or 4 gear and than quickly made a full throttle. and of course car lagging for a moment and gone limp mode.

after arriving home i've reading fault codes and i saw that gearbox had tried to make a clutch engagment, requested 10 (or so) bar of pressure but get only, 2,4, 1.5 etc bars, but no pressure which it requested.
it's simple - oil under braking goes away from suction pipe and gearbox can't build pressure.

so, when i was doing dct adaptation, i saw some interesting info in ista, that m3 gts transmission has one liter of oil more, than usual dct.
of course, i've checking dct pan in next few seconds in bmw cat they were fully the same.
after that i looked how m3 gts filling up dct oil and they simply add this liter over the standart level (they use banjo fitting for easily filling this liter).

so i've lifted the car on the right side as high as possible (professional jack) and add same liter of dct oil.

after this i've tested car on the streets as hard as possible (yep, "street driving" up to 250kmh), and problem almost gone -only few times on braking in the top of the hill on 200kmh i've got same fault.

on the next track day we've got this problem few times, but not like every lap of course. and again - we had track prepared car with 275/275 semislick setup, on large brakes etc.

full 100% solution we made later - our enhanced dct pan, with anti-starvation partitions inside. with it we didn't get any issues at all, even on track days.

so, for street cars i'd recommend to use +1 liter as simplest solution.
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      02-16-2018, 05:14 PM   #92
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I finally got fed up with the DCT lag in my 2013 135i, the dangerous lag on rolling stops variety. So I pulled the trigger on a new Alfa Romeo Quadrifoglio, and picked her up last weekend. Was going to put the 135i on the market this week. Then I got rear-ended in the new Alfa on the way to work 2 days after I got her.

So looks like me and the 135i will be continuing our love-hate relationship for the next few months. Hopefully one of the new fixes in this thread will work to solve the hate part, though I've been through the software update and dealer runaround so many times now that I have little actual hope it will (and I am out of warranty ... and patience ... to boot!) :-)
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      02-23-2018, 05:58 PM   #93
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I doubt that anything has been fixed. I had the same problems, but the fix required a total reprogramming of the main computer which took nearly 24 hours. It was done a couple of years ago, and it has been successful ever since!
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      05-03-2018, 05:51 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slonik View Post
guys, i saw that it's a very old problem with lag.

so, may be my hint will help you.

try to add 1 liter of dct oil higher, than normal level

so, for street cars i'd recommend to use +1 liter as simplest solution.
Any more people try this yet?
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      05-30-2018, 01:48 AM   #95
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Had dct lag myself talked to a buddy of mine (worked for BMW dealer) we brainstormed we both blamed the catless downpipe but decided to reset all adaptations followed by 30 mins without power and been driving for a year and a half without a problem and he has done the same for some local friends and they have had the same results hope this helps
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      05-30-2018, 07:58 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay135is View Post
Had dct lag myself talked to a buddy of mine (worked for BMW dealer) we brainstormed we both blamed the catless downpipe but decided to reset all adaptations followed by 30 mins without power and been driving for a year and a half without a problem and he has done the same for some local friends and they have had the same results hope this helps
i picked my 135i about a month ago now and bought carly.. can it be done on that.

also to any who know how can I find out what DME / SIB I'm running bc i have no clue if previous owner had any clue or kept up with the car.
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      06-02-2018, 11:14 PM   #97
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Still experiencing DCT delay quite frequently these days. It's MUCH worse when I have the AC on. That and the lurching from the engine and the constant almost stalling is really annoying.
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      06-02-2018, 11:50 PM   #98
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TridenTBoy, how many miles on your car?
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      06-03-2018, 01:28 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
TridenTBoy, how many miles on your car?
54k. It's been happening since I purchased it at 35k tho.
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      06-03-2018, 05:03 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TridenTBoy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
TridenTBoy, how many miles on your car?
54k. It's been happening since I purchased it at 35k tho.
My car never really had the lurching but the odd DCT throttle delay was annoying. After I got the PPK tune it is much better. Every once in a while in stop and go traffic the throttle seems lag a bit and I just move the lever to the left - sport mode- I find myself driving in sport more often actually. Lol.
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      06-03-2018, 11:58 AM   #101
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Gear shift lever to the left, sport button pressed, and manual shifting. These things make the car come alive imo. The only way I drive. A/C on or off, no problems with the DCT. Hopefully will never have any. *knocks on wood*
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      06-03-2018, 12:14 PM   #102
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Sport mode, manual, it doesn't matter. It does it in all of them. RPMs nose dive, car will lurch to stop from stalling... makes the damn car nearly rearend people half the time. That and when I am pressing down the brake pedal to stop... and then it lurches and I have to react /really/ fast to stop it from hitting a car. Real great. German engineering...
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      06-03-2018, 12:24 PM   #103
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Quote:
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Sport mode, manual, it doesn't matter. It does it in all of them. RPMs nose dive, car will lurch to stop from stalling... makes the damn car nearly rearend people half the time. That and when I am pressing down the brake pedal to stop... and then it lurches and I have to react /really/ fast to stop it from hitting a car. Real great. German engineering...
There are a variety of "fixes" for these issues that have worked for some people. Maybe they'll help you. Here's a thread about them. Try them, if you haven't already.
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      06-12-2018, 07:00 PM   #104
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My car is doing the same thing. Have you discovered the fix?
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      08-11-2018, 02:49 PM   #105
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My car is doing the same thing. Have you discovered the fix?
Same problems here. Local dealership says "No code thrown, we can't help you" - I'm not pleased.
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      08-11-2018, 09:18 PM   #106
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My car has now done approx 56,000 miles. Iíve owned since about 30,000 miles.

I have noticed the following weirdness with the box:

- When I slow and come to an almost complete stop, my car almost dies (the revs dip to almost zero). Often times it will recover. Itís worse when the engine cold. Ambient temp doesnít seem to impact it. Largely goes away once warmed up. Other times it will stall, and gearbox goes to neutral. Once you restart the car itís fine.

- Very very rarely, switching from P to R and then to D, I will get a flashing ďNĒ on the dash. Car refuses to switch gears until I shut down, remove key and re-start. This has happened less than 5 times in the time Iíve owned the car.

There are no fault codes stored. My experience with the car has been mostly positive except for two instances - one where my serpentine belt disintegrated without any warning, another issue being my charge pipe exploded when doing launch control, lost the metal clip that holds it on and I couldnít find a replacement one easily. In the end I got bent over for several hundred bucks for a piece of metal piping and a couple of o-rings.
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      08-11-2018, 11:23 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
My car has now done approx 56,000 miles. Iíve owned since about 30,000 miles.

I have noticed the following weirdness with the box:

- When I slow and come to an almost complete stop, my car almost dies (the revs dip to almost zero). Often times it will recover. Itís worse when the engine cold. Ambient temp doesnít seem to impact it. Largely goes away once warmed up. Other times it will stall, and gearbox goes to neutral. Once you restart the car itís fine.

- Very very rarely, switching from P to R and then to D, I will get a flashing ďNĒ on the dash. Car refuses to switch gears until I shut down, remove key and re-start. This has happened less than 5 times in the time Iíve owned the car.

There are no fault codes stored. My experience with the car has been mostly positive except for two instances - one where my serpentine belt disintegrated without any warning, another issue being my charge pipe exploded when doing launch control, lost the metal clip that holds it on and I couldnít find a replacement one easily. In the end I got bent over for several hundred bucks for a piece of metal piping and a couple of o-rings.
Is your AC on with the first one? AC being on causes that to happen for a lot of DCTs.

Can't speak for your other situations.

Recently, my car had an issue where I literally had the pedal down past the kick down switch and it just... didn't do anything for about 2-3 seconds. Eventually, it finally got into 1st. Was pretty annoying as I was turning right and cars were coming quickly.
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      08-11-2018, 11:27 PM   #108
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Yes - My A/C is always on, I never switch it off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TridenTBoy View Post
Recently, my car had an issue where I literally had the pedal down past the kick down switch and it just... didn't do anything for about 2-3 seconds. Eventually, it finally got into 1st. Was pretty annoying as I was turning right and cars were coming quickly.
That sounds dangerous as hell. If I go more than about 70-80% throttle especially on cold tyres Iíll get T.C. cutting in an thatíll end up making the manoeuvre slower than accelerating at a ďsensible paceĒ.
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      05-26-2019, 02:35 PM   #109
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engine DCT coordination

I'm almost at 100k miles and most of it is from me with a lot of logs and notes.

I am also running with PPK software and JB4 often between maps 7 or 1/2 to avoid huge MPG dips,

The ECU on the DCT has certain expectations of how the engine revs and decelerates. When my intake tract is gummed up and needing a walnut blasting, the behavior is off. it feels like the engine and DCT are over compensating sometimes at odds.

When the pulleys and tensioner and alternator over running pulley is getting worn and it starts to impede the ability of the engine to decelerate, it feels off.

If you are having surging or stalling issues, make sure you have walnut blasted every 30k miles. I've done it twice and the last one was way over due and a horrifying mess in there.

When the ignition, valvetronic lift, intake ports are clean and the crank isn't getting held up accelerating or decelerating by the bits on the serpentine belt path they run great, but the slight wear really adds up and non ideal behaviors creep in.

Ignition coils and plugs can also create slight hiccups and surging

Maintenance and repairs on these things seem one in the same.

Once all the belt/tensioner - VVT/L - ignition - fuel issues are 100%, the fluid level and filter and fluid changes on the DCT are effective in ensuirng the fluid has the volume to create the pressure to activate the clutches appropriately.
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      05-27-2019, 11:14 PM   #110
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My car has had this issue since the day I bought it. Recently it became worse to a point of it being intolerable. I just happened to flash to the newest version of MHD and reset adaptations (load control, vanos, and throttle) and the car has gotten quite a bit better. It's not perfect, but at least I'm not using the issue as an excuse to trade the car like I was last month.

If you have MHD, I suggest updating the app, flashing the newest maps, then before starting the car reset the above mentioned adaptations. I also let my car sit for 30 minutes after adaptation reset before starting it for good measure. Hope this helps someone.
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