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      08-30-2014, 11:43 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I just realized I never posted my Dimple oil drain plugs in this thread. I really am more happy with the DImple plugs over the UUC plug. The magnet in the Dimple ones is way stronger than the UUC one.


Attachment 1079943

Attachment 1079944

Attachment 1079945

Attachment 1079946


More Dimple plug pics here...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=496058&page=2


Dac,

Noob here! I tried doing my first oil change and got the car up in the air using ramps, but was unsuccessful because the oil drain plug was too tight.

What are the settings that I should use for torque wrench?

I am using the Tekton 24330 torque wrench, but I also can not get enough ground clearance to make use of the torque wrench (wrench is too tall to position it to loosen the plug).

Is there any way of getting it off? Anyone located in Burlingame or the Bay Area to help out a fellow 1-er?
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      09-01-2014, 06:36 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adobeee View Post
Dac,

Noob here! I tried doing my first oil change and got the car up in the air using ramps, but was unsuccessful because the oil drain plug was too tight.

What are the settings that I should use for torque wrench?

I am using the Tekton 24330 torque wrench, but I also can not get enough ground clearance to make use of the torque wrench (wrench is too tall to position it to loosen the plug).

Is there any way of getting it off? Anyone located in Burlingame or the Bay Area to help out a fellow 1-er?
First... you don't use a torque wrench to remove tightened bolts. That's a good way to ruin your t.w.

What you need is a breaker bar. A long bar or lever that can multiply, the force your arm is applying to the fastened bolt/oil drain plug.

Now... this might sound silly... but are you SURE you were turning the oil drain plug in the correct direction? It's easy to get mixed up, when trying to un-do a fastened bolt. Especially when your laying on your back.

Remember... LEFTY loose-y and RIGHTY tighty!

You should be using a good sized 1/2 inch ratchet wrench or breaker bar. Do not use a 1/4" or 3/8th's ratchet... you just won't get enough torque to open that bolt.

Good Luck,
Dackel
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      09-01-2014, 07:19 PM   #91
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As usual, Dack's advice on checking direction is right on. I change a lot of cars, due to quarterly events at church, and I like to set up ratchet and then use it to check my direction when under the car. It is just too easy to get disoriented. While you don't need to use a torque wrench when taking the plug out, it has reasonable leverage so you can. My favorite ratchet for tight fasteners is a Harbor Freight extendable 3/8 ratchet. It extends in about 4 increments to give you more leverage. The drain plug is in the aluminum pan so you want to be careful with it. If it has been over tightened, however, you have to get it out. If it is way tight, you may need to use an impact wrench.

On American cars with steel drain pans, I sometimes put my foot on the wrench and push with my leg when they are really tight. But I make sure I am going the right way first.
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      09-03-2014, 12:33 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adobeee View Post
Dac,

Noob here! I tried doing my first oil change and got the car up in the air using ramps, but was unsuccessful because the oil drain plug was too tight.

What are the settings that I should use for torque wrench?

I am using the Tekton 24330 torque wrench, but I also can not get enough ground clearance to make use of the torque wrench (wrench is too tall to position it to loosen the plug).

Is there any way of getting it off? Anyone located in Burlingame or the Bay Area to help out a fellow 1-er?
The drain plug torque is 18ft/lbs that should be easily removed with a 3/8" drive ratchet. I hope you didn't tighten it by accident.
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      09-06-2014, 12:00 PM   #93
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Minimal?

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Originally Posted by Billup View Post
Paranoia. Oil flows through the center and extrudes through the inner filters and travels outwards. Majority of sediment is caught in the fibrous material that makes up the filter and remains trapped, which is why mileage per filter is kind of important. The residual leftovers draining back in is minimal. However, a filter that is not changed at the right interval loses integrity and can cause more damage than the "drip down" you are worried about.

Kind of like the filters for CNC wire EDM machines. Filters out the sediment from metals in the water, but as time goes by, the abundance of trapped materials causes poor / minimal filtering, which causes poor performance and more work for the machine. Same concept for a combustion motor.
Minimal drain back? If the oil under pressure moves from the center of the filter to the outside of the filter, isn't this minimal drain back going directly into the passage feeding the bearings, etc. essentually allowing crap to go to the bearings? I read in one of the oil change posts that they cleaned the internal housing with brake-clean "since it just goes through the motor". Unless I completely misunderstand the configuration of this housing and passages, this can't be correct. Brake-clean at a bearing surface is a really bad thing! I could see the foggy logic if the housing drained to the pan, but I don't see how it could.

Maybe I'm wrong,

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      09-06-2014, 04:34 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MontegoCoupe View Post
Minimal drain back? If the oil under pressure moves from the center of the filter to the outside of the filter, isn't this minimal drain back going directly into the passage feeding the bearings, etc. essentually allowing crap to go to the bearings? I read in one of the oil change posts that they cleaned the internal housing with brake-clean "since it just goes through the motor". Unless I completely misunderstand the configuration of this housing and passages, this can't be correct. Brake-clean at a bearing surface is a really bad thing! I could see the foggy logic if the housing drained to the pan, but I don't see how it could.

Maybe I'm wrong,

MontegoCoupe
From what I've conceived, different oil filter manufacturers have different internal component ordering. This is what I would believe, is why most people suggest an OEM filter, because internal component composition is somewhat higher quality, but it's manufacturer branded, including warranties. You figure, a store brand filer doesn't carry as adequate centrifugal force as a brand model, because brand models have engineering behind them. If they didn't they would be less expensive.

Brake clean is completely out of line. I would never suggest that, and I don't think any of my posts included that under normal operating conditions. However, if you have the components separated and you clean the parts individually, then lube like it would at the assembly line, than the precautions have been taken to ensure performance.

The concept itself is simple, but the engineering behind it is far beyond what people even fathom.
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      09-06-2014, 05:55 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billup View Post
Paranoia. Oil flows through the center and extrudes through the inner filters and travels outwards. Majority of sediment is caught in the fibrous material that makes up the filter and remains trapped, which is why mileage per filter is kind of important. The residual leftovers draining back in is minimal. However, a filter that is not changed at the right interval loses integrity and can cause more damage than the "drip down" you are worried about.

Kind of like the filters for CNC wire EDM machines. Filters out the sediment from metals in the water, but as time goes by, the abundance of trapped materials causes poor / minimal filtering, which causes poor performance and more work for the machine. Same concept for a combustion motor.

Reminds me of this video from BMW...


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      09-06-2014, 06:36 PM   #96
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I don't understand the concern about residual oil in the filter housing. That same oil was circulating in your engine right before you shut it down. There is oil in your engine of the same quality and you want it there. It would be MUCH worse to start your engine without oil in the bearing surfaces than it is to have a few ounces of dirty oil left in the engine. Changing your oil restores the additive package and removes most of the carbon and other contaminants. The little bit left behind is not a real concern.

That said, I leave the plug out until it get to the dripping stage when draining the oil and usually use an old turkey baster to remove oil from the oil filter housing on the bimmer. You want to get out what you reasonably but you don't want to worry about what you cannot reasonably remove. Trying something like brake cleaner inside your motor is a much bigger risk than the little bit of dirty oil.
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      09-06-2014, 10:46 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billup View Post
From what I've conceived, different oil filter manufacturers have different internal component ordering. This is what I would believe, is why most people suggest an OEM filter, because internal component composition is somewhat higher quality, but it's manufacturer branded, including warranties. You figure, a store brand filer doesn't carry as adequate centrifugal force as a brand model, because brand models have engineering behind them. If they didn't they would be less expensive.

Brake clean is completely out of line. I would never suggest that, and I don't think any of my posts included that under normal operating conditions. However, if you have the components separated and you clean the parts individually, then lube like it would at the assembly line, than the precautions have been taken to ensure performance.

The concept itself is simple, but the engineering behind it is far beyond what people even fathom.

The construction of the aftermarket Mann HU 816X oil filter I buy is of the exact same quality as the BMW filter you buy from a dealer. Mann makes oil filters for BMW, and I bet they come off the same manufacturing line.
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      09-08-2014, 08:08 AM   #98
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Quote:
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The construction of the aftermarket Mann HU 816X oil filter I buy is of the exact same quality as the BMW filter you buy from a dealer. Mann makes oil filters for BMW, and I bet they come off the same manufacturing line.
Yeah Mann filters are really good build quality, and of course there are going to be competitors in the high end market, but they are less prevalent. I mean that in a sense that there are about 20 "value" brands for every 1 or 2 high quality brand.

I suppose what I was relating mostly to, is someone who tries to compare the build quality and performance of a $8.99 China filter, compared to a $24.99 Mann/BMW/Bosch filter.
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      09-08-2014, 09:23 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billup View Post
Yeah Mann filters are really good build quality, and of course there are going to be competitors in the high end market, but they are less prevalent. I mean that in a sense that there are about 20 "value" brands for every 1 or 2 high quality brand.

I suppose what I was relating mostly to, is someone who tries to compare the build quality and performance of a $8.99 China filter, compared to a $24.99 Mann/BMW/Bosch filter.
Mann 816X is less than $10 from Amazon. Price can be an indicator of quality but a higher price certainly doesn't guarantee higher quality. When the price is too low, however, it can be a warning sign. The oil filters I buy for other vehicles are usually closer to $5 and have a can and bleed back valve. $10 for just the paper element and a couple O-rings seems plenty adequate to get a quality part.
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      09-08-2014, 09:34 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
Mann 816X is less than $10 from Amazon. Price can be an indicator of quality but a higher price certainly doesn't guarantee higher quality. When the price is too low, however, it can be a warning sign. The oil filters I buy for other vehicles are usually closer to $5 and have a can and bleed back valve. $10 for just the paper element and a couple O-rings seems plenty adequate to get a quality part.
I do agree completely that more cost doesn't always equivalate higher quality, I was just using it as a comparison of extremes. Looking at a Bosh or Mann filter next to an STP filter, you will notice some pretty generous differences in build from one another. Again, just a broad comparison.

I've been using a Bosh filter for my changes, and I think they are about $20. It is a little steep for some cardboard and rubber rings, but I do suppose that's the cost of convenience.
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      02-12-2016, 07:53 PM   #101
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Mahle filter

I used a Mahle filter on my E82/N52K and one thing I did notice was that the Mahle supplied oring was black, not green like the one I was replacing. I looked it up and black is nitrile while green indicates highly saturated nitrile. Not sure if/how much that matters as I am not a materials engineer, but I suspect that regular nitrile is probably a cheaper and perhaps less capable material.

My engine also has the sideways oil drain and it does indeed shoot out, not down. I used a piece of tin foil to deflect the oil stream down and that worked very nicely. No mess.

Great info on the service reset, that worked well. I assume I will also be able to do the same reset for brake fluid, brake pads, etc. Nice!
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      12-29-2016, 07:37 PM   #102
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Is it safe to run Castrol Edge 0W-40 in the 128i?
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      12-29-2016, 08:35 PM   #103
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Quote:
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Is it safe to run Castrol Edge 0W-40 in the 128i?
Yes. Actually, it is one of the better oils you can use for your car and pretty cheap to buy.
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      06-18-2017, 09:24 PM   #104
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Castrol 0-40 European says it meets BMW specs and is on the most current BMW list, I believe. I've used it the last two oil changes.

My last oil change I learned something significant, at least to me. I mistakenly only bought 1 5 qt container so I tried just adding that and seeing where I was at. It is right at the mid-point of the oil level indicator! So 1 5 qt filled it. The car was tilted due to jack on the passengers side and I did not take the filter out until I put the drain plug back in, not my normal practice. So that may have left a bit more oil in the engine. But still I think putting in a 5 qt and checking the level is reasonable. It should take less than another quart and possibly no more oil to get to the mid point. I try to carry a spare quart in a BMW bag in the trunk (although I need to get one at the moment because my wifes car needed one) so if it checks a little low I should be able to take care of it.
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      01-03-2018, 07:54 PM   #105
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I did another oil change on my 128i after about 6,000 miles. I added 5 qts as noted above and it was a little above the minimum for the entire 6,000 miles. So I did the same thing again. This time I raised the car the minimum I could and get to the drain plug. So it was not as tilted. I did not remove the residual oil from the filter housing and there was at least a cup in it. I added 5 qts and drove it to check the level. It was pretty much exactly at the minimum and asked for another quart. So I added a quart as best I could judge it on a 5 qt container and it is a little below the maximum.

So my revised judgement is that 5 qts will get you to the minimum sometimes, depending on what you do with the oil in the filter housing and how much of an angle the car is in while draining. But 6 qts is safer. It should get you to the mid-point of the scale regardless. It might be at the maximum if your car is real slanted and you just let the oil in the filter housing go back in. But I don't think at least my car would ever be over full from 6 qts. And you should never be low.

I'm still using Castrol 0-40 European from Walmart. 5 qt containers are not convenient for the additional quart but aren't that bad either. My local Walmart doesn't have it in one quart containers. So I will consume a 5 qt over several oil changes.

One reason I do not worry about oil filter drain back is I change at 5K intervals just for convenience. So the oil I'm leaving in is not like it would be at 10K.
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      02-08-2018, 03:52 PM   #106
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Quote:
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Dackelone,

I think you pictures are great! I especially liked the pictures showing the drain plug and the way the oil comes out. My 2006 Grand Vitara (Suzuki SUV) has the same sort of sideways drain plug. I made such a mess the first time I changed my oil, I changed to a different style drain plug. This one is a quarter turn ball valve with a pipe nipple on it I put a piece of clear tubing on so I can direct it right down to the pan. No tools required for the drain plug plus no mess. The recess of the drain plug in the 135 might be a problem but the supplier sells and extension base to help.
I've used a similar valve, Fumoto, on a couple of cars. They make draining much cleaner and easier.
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      03-16-2018, 11:12 AM   #107
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My apologies if this is covered in this thread...

Be absolutely sure the oil fill cap is tight. Mine makes a click when fully on.

I did my first oil change since being out of warranty and the car ran very bad after. Lumpy idling, reving up in idle and misfires. SES light came on and the car threw about 10 codes related to misfires. I found I hadn't put the cap on completely. This essentially created a vacuum leak.
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      03-16-2018, 11:35 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
I did another oil change on my 128i after about 6,000 miles. I added 5 qts as noted above and it was a little above the minimum for the entire 6,000 miles. So I did the same thing again. This time I raised the car the minimum I could and get to the drain plug. So it was not as tilted. I did not remove the residual oil from the filter housing and there was at least a cup in it. I added 5 qts and drove it to check the level. It was pretty much exactly at the minimum and asked for another quart. So I added a quart as best I could judge it on a 5 qt container and it is a little below the maximum.

So my revised judgement is that 5 qts will get you to the minimum sometimes, depending on what you do with the oil in the filter housing and how much of an angle the car is in while draining. But 6 qts is safer. It should get you to the mid-point of the scale regardless. It might be at the maximum if your car is real slanted and you just let the oil in the filter housing go back in. But I don't think at least my car would ever be over full from 6 qts. And you should never be low.

I'm still using Castrol 0-40 European from Walmart. 5 qt containers are not convenient for the additional quart but aren't that bad either. My local Walmart doesn't have it in one quart containers. So I will consume a 5 qt over several oil changes.

One reason I do not worry about oil filter drain back is I change at 5K intervals just for convenience. So the oil I'm leaving in is not like it would be at 10K.
Get a large 5 or 6 L measuring cup and just put the right amount of oil in.

I always change my oil at full operating temp and let it drain for a couple hours. I put 7.0 L in.
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      03-24-2018, 05:33 PM   #109
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I did another oil change today at 65,000 miles. I put 6 quarts in but have not had it up to temperature yet to see what the "gauge" says the level is. I expect it to be mid-point or a bit above.

The big change I made was I used ramps. I've tried ramps before but plastic ones skid around and I cracked them. So I bought a couple 2x8s for less than $15 and cut them to 24 inches, 33 inches and 39 inches (they were 8 footers). I cut at 45 degrees for a little smoother transition. But they didn't work, they skidded too. So I added a bottom layer of scrap 5/8 subfloor plywood. It sticks out another foot. So the car rolls onto the plywood before it starts to hit the 2X. Works well. The car is lifted about 5 inches which is comfortable for me to do an oil change. Not counting the construction adhesive or pneumatic nails, I have less than $15 in these ramps. If I decide I need them to be 6+ inches tall I can add a 18 inch long layer. But they seem fine as-is.
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      03-25-2018, 12:48 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
The big change I made was I used ramps. I've tried ramps before but plastic ones skid around and I cracked them.
I use ramps when I change the oil as well.

I always place a large square rubber mat under each ramp so it doesn't slip and I push the ramp right up to the tire so that it immediately goes up the ramp.
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