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      07-23-2019, 01:13 AM   #23
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OK, thinking of how to plumb a parallel connection to the OFH to a factory cooler in the drivers wheelwell (technically designed for water in the PPK kit, but it's an identical cooler to the oil one). I am using factory options for two reasons, cost (found one cheap on ebay) and limited space...I have a brake duct kit. I also like having factory fitup.

Things I am considering that I'd appreciate thoughts on:

1. It's important for parallel systems to have balanced flow, otherwise one cooler carries most of the load. The idea discussed above about a restrictor plate in the factory side needs to be confirmed. It looks like there is a metal band in the factory drivers line, FWIW. If there is a significant restrictor, I think I need to get it out and then find a good solution to reconnect the hose. Maybe one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at981510erl and two hose clamps?

2. Anyone used or have knowledge of acceptable use of one of these?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-...53.m1438.l2649

Bolts to the bottom of the OFH and lets you route your lines stage left (drivers). Also leaves the top connections open for me for something else (Accusump). Seems ideal...but it also looks like it could have horrible fitment and leaks due to being a cheap overseas part.

3. Thoughts on rubber vs PTFE? Thinking of going PTFE.

If I can use the part above in #2, this appears to be easy...Bolt that part to the bottom of the OFH, bolt the factory lines for the passenger side to the bottom of it. Put two AN10 fittings into the side, route two PTFE hoses (one side with AN10 fittings) to the new cooler(I will need to use a hose clamp at that end given it just has a flared end vice what the oil cooler has.)

If the part in #2 is know to be a POS, I think I'll do two banjos to the top of the OFH and figure out how to plumb in the Accusump to the return line via a Tee.

FWIW, I've already received the cooler and have ordered all the factory bits to mount it up and route flow(like the PPK2 kit). All I need is to decide on a hookup/routing setup for the hoses.
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      07-23-2019, 07:52 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
The mosselman parts berns posted are really nice. They are pricey, but the thermostat solution is really appealing. Just want to understand if 180 is too low for a mostly street car.
I wouldn't run the 180* thermostat on a street car. With my 26row, stock thermostat, and MHD race cooling settings oil was taking way too long to the warm up in cooler weather. Like 25 minutes of side-roads to work and it would still barely kiss 200f. I flash back to stock cooling settings for winter, spring, and fall for this reason. In moderate weather the car will sit at 210-230f oil when running MHD race settings. This is on a N55 6MT so slightly better cooling and less heat to manage.

Berns is doing time attack and pretty much has a race car at this point so the 180* might be fine for him.

Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
- AndyW asked this already, but what size AN line is recommended? (nice find on the parts posted by Gary@simod.net, that was another question i was going to ask)
-10 An is pretty much going to be the answer for the simple reason that the oil coolers usually come with 22mm welded bungs which is most commonly converted to -10AN with a fitting. -8AN is usually considered the minimum you would want on an oil line since the internal diameter of an AN fitting can start getting pretty tight.

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Originally Posted by houtan View Post
- It would be nice to have part numbers for the oil coolers used so we have an idea of what fits. Based on the size of the ebay cooler bbnks2 was able to fit, it seems a setrab 625 is around the max that will fit.
The GPlus 26row I bought is very similar to the Setrab 625. Probably manufactured by the same Chinese factory just without the branding lol. This seems to be the sweet spot size-wise. Anything bigger is going to get crazy trying to get air to the entire face and also get it to fit right without the fittings sitting below the plane of the under-tray.

Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
- How can we conclude whether or not the factory thermostat is a restriction? Based on what bbnks2, it doesn't seem to be a restriction.
Stick the stock thermostat in a pot of cooking oil and see what temperate the thermostat starts opening at. Then get the oil up to 250f-260f and see how "open" the thermostat is. I might do this over the next few days as I have all the parts just sitting in the garage. Only reason I haven't done it already is because doing stupid tests like this, taking picture, documenting, and posting takes tons of time. I need to get a job working as a crew member for a race team lol Then I can sit around all day playing with stupid shit like this and get paid for it. If only I could get away with bringing an engine into the office to play with at my desk...

Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
- Anyone have clearance issues with an aftermarket setup and a CSF radiator? After seeing the clearance between oil lines and the fan shroud in some of the pictures, i went and looked under my hood. My oil lines are basically smushed against the fan shroud because of the extra thickness of the radiator. Some of the pictures have much more room. This is what my car looks like.
Fitment is tight with the larger -10 AN lines and fittings vs the stock feed line which runs OVER the housing. But, you can get the lines to sit stacked on top of each-other like stock. The AN fittings also swivel. The fitment issue I run into is actually the front AC? line that runs near the serpentine belt. It's a hard line that sits right below the oil thermostat housing. It will fit though lol this is the easy part. Just zip tie the lines to stuff to keep them sitting in the right place. The hard part (time consuming) is making a bracket and shroud.

Last edited by bbnks2; 07-23-2019 at 08:18 AM..
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      07-23-2019, 08:08 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
OK, thinking of how to plumb a parallel connection to the OFH to a factory cooler in the drivers wheelwell (technically designed for water in the PPK kit, but it's an identical cooler to the oil one). I am using factory options for two reasons, cost (found one cheap on ebay) and limited space...I have a brake duct kit. I also like having factory fitup.

Things I am considering that I'd appreciate thoughts on:

1. It's important for parallel systems to have balanced flow, otherwise one cooler carries most of the load. The idea discussed above about a restrictor plate in the factory side needs to be confirmed. It looks like there is a metal band in the factory drivers line, FWIW. If there is a significant restrictor, I think I need to get it out and then find a good solution to reconnect the hose. Maybe one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at981510erl and two hose clamps?

2. Anyone used or have knowledge of acceptable use of one of these?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-...53.m1438.l2649

Bolts to the bottom of the OFH and lets you route your lines stage left (drivers). Also leaves the top connections open for me for something else (Accusump). Seems ideal...but it also looks like it could have horrible fitment and leaks due to being a cheap overseas part.

3. Thoughts on rubber vs PTFE? Thinking of going PTFE.

If I can use the part above in #2, this appears to be easy...Bolt that part to the bottom of the OFH, bolt the factory lines for the passenger side to the bottom of it. Put two AN10 fittings into the side, route two PTFE hoses (one side with AN10 fittings) to the new cooler(I will need to use a hose clamp at that end given it just has a flared end vice what the oil cooler has.)

If the part in #2 is know to be a POS, I think I'll do two banjos to the top of the OFH and figure out how to plumb in the Accusump to the return line via a Tee.

FWIW, I've already received the cooler and have ordered all the factory bits to mount it up and route flow(like the PPK2 kit). All I need is to decide on a hookup/routing setup for the hoses.
Seems like you're already 90% of the way there. The fitting is cheap enough. They generally fit fine. Just get new o-rings every single time you connect/disconnect the adapter and/or the factory lines or you will get leaks at these connections. How evenly it splits flow would be a concern. I am sure it's fine.

Also remember to grab the OE shroud that goes along with the PPK retrofit kit. Gotta get air to the drivers side cooler somehow.

Last edited by bbnks2; 07-23-2019 at 08:19 AM..
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      07-23-2019, 08:36 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Seems like you're already 90% of the way there. The fitting is cheap enough. They generally fit fine. Just get new o-rings every single time you connect/disconnect the adapter and/or the factory lines or you will get leaks at these connections. How evenly it splits flow would be a concern. I am sure it's fine.

Also remember to grab the OE shroud that goes along with the PPK retrofit kit. Gotta get air to the drivers side cooler somehow.
Rgr, Thx. I did order the OE shroud for exactly that reason.
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      07-23-2019, 11:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Rgr, Thx. I did order the OE shroud for exactly that reason.
Looking forward to seeing your progress on this! It's interesting to me because you are using the OE HW (which I prefer when possible) and you are trying to mount them in parallel. The in parallel part is very intriguing because berns is running two slightly larger coolers in series and still has cooling issues in some scenarios. I am looking forward to seeing if two factory coolers in parallel can get the job done. If not, I remember someone showing me an OE cooler on a different car, I think the 535, that mounts in the passenger fender but was larger than the OE E82 cooler. Not sure about fitment though.

There is this company that makes a larger cooler for the E92 M3 DCT, which mounts in the same location as our stock oil cooler. part: https://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/bmw-...er-racing.html. They were willing to sell me the cooler at a discount without their shroud, but could not confirm fitment so I kind of gave up on that option. It looks like it will work though. I believe the E92 M3 DCT oil cooler is the same as our oil cooler, and this upgrade appears to be using the factory mounting bracket.
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      07-23-2019, 12:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post

I need to get a job working as a crew member for a race team lol Then I can sit around all day playing with stupid shit like this and get paid for it. If only I could get away with bringing an engine into the office to play with at my desk...
Lol. You and me both. Need to start a company kind of like Mythbusters, but for car related things lol. Would love to get paid doing that kind of stuff.

Would be interesting to see the results of the thermostat test if you get around to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
The hard part (time consuming) is making a bracket and shroud.
These two items are the main things stopping me from doing my own kit.
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      07-23-2019, 10:37 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Looking forward to seeing your progress on this! It's interesting to me because you are using the OE HW (which I prefer when possible) and you are trying to mount them in parallel. The in parallel part is very intriguing because berns is running two slightly larger coolers in series and still has cooling issues in some scenarios. I am looking forward to seeing if two factory coolers in parallel can get the job done. If not, I remember someone showing me an OE cooler on a different car, I think the 535, that mounts in the passenger fender but was larger than the OE E82 cooler. Not sure about fitment though.

There is this company that makes a larger cooler for the E92 M3 DCT, which mounts in the same location as our stock oil cooler. part: https://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/bmw-...er-racing.html. They were willing to sell me the cooler at a discount without their shroud, but could not confirm fitment so I kind of gave up on that option. It looks like it will work though. I believe the E92 M3 DCT oil cooler is the same as our oil cooler, and this upgrade appears to be using the factory mounting bracket.
I'll keep you posted. That DO88 cooler does look like it would fit and you could probably modify the shroud. What were they selling the cooler alone for? Still spendy, I bet.

A side note...I have not experienced DCT temp or performance issues and it is the same transmission as the M3. Admittedly I am in the PNW, where temps are rarely over 80F. Interesting that so many M3 guys have overheat issues but 135 guys seem to have less issues. maybe it's straight up horsepower related. Given that the cooler that is used (water/oil) in the 135i means that the water temp, at around 200F, will try to maintain that as the DCT temp on our cars. That means there is inefficiency to adding a separate cooler after that in-line. But BMW obviously added that cooler to get the DCT "up to temp" and apparently that was bigger concern than actually cooling it. Need to research people who have done DCT coolers (I know Asbjorn has but he is in crazy hot temps). I have the slon pan now and really need to do some logging to see if I need to address it.
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      07-23-2019, 10:51 PM   #30
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This was an interesting post. Seems to summarize other data I have been hoovering from the interwebs tonight:

https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec.../#post10388326
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      07-24-2019, 12:47 AM   #31
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Another thought: Tempted to get used OE hoses for the right side and cut them and connect to the drivers side. Equal flow for parallel coolers is key to max performance...
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      07-24-2019, 07:34 PM   #32
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Found my old emails to do88. They were going to reduce the price by 20% without the shroud. So it would’ve been around 800 plus 50 for shipping.

The oe part number between the M3 dct cooler and n5x oil cooler are different, but the csf upgrade for both parts was the same part number, so I assumed the do88 would mate up to the factory n5x oil lines.
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      07-25-2019, 01:10 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Found my old emails to do88. They were going to reduce the price by 20% without the shroud. So it would’ve been around 800 plus 50 for shipping.

The oe part number between the M3 dct cooler and n5x oil cooler are different, but the csf upgrade for both parts was the same part number, so I assumed the do88 would mate up to the factory n5x oil lines.
Based on appearances, I agree. If was going to use the drivers side as a DCT cooler, then this would be my next thought for the oil cooler.
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      08-07-2019, 08:00 PM   #34
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Well, the fitting arrived today and, contrary to what I thought, it does not route in parallel...just a cleaner way to route in series. Seems decent quality tho. Bummer..now I need to decide if I wanna do parallel or just hook up what I have...
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      08-08-2019, 08:47 AM   #35
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That sucks. Tough decision for sure. One side of me would say try it in series and see if it meets my needs. The other side says it would be annoying (just because I have little free time now) to have to go back and figure out a parallel solution if in series doesn’t work.

If you have the time, I personally would try it and go from there. I think I have done my suspension three or four times trying to figure out what I want lol.
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      08-31-2019, 04:19 PM   #36
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So, I got the parallel solution working.

Got a cooler on ebay for $89 but I did have to build the front tension bracket as it somehow didn't still have the bracket attached.

I sourced the oil lines from a wrecking yard for $50.

Got some fittings from Summit for about $100.

Ducting kit and other mounting parts from Tisher ~ $175.

Used two Mishimoto 90 degree AN-10 to 1.5 x 20mm to attached to the top of the OFH.

Used a 90 degree and a 45 degree Summit twist-tite AN-10 hose ends. (Don't recommend these, both had minor leaks that I couldn't stop - ended up having Summit ship me conical repair seals gratis to correct since I'd have to cut the hoses due to the barb fittings and it would be more of a PITA to RMA than it was worth...to Summit's credit, they did what I asked and made it right with the conical seals, which appear to have solved the problem.)

I used a heat gun to melt the intake duct underside into a shape that would allow the fittings to clear.

It all appears to work! Test drive for over 30 min and temps stayed below 230. Not sure when the stock thermostat opens but there appeared to be some flow and heat transfer to both sides. Need to get it on the track and do some IR thermometer measurements to see if it is balanced.

Pics:











BTW, there is a restrictor in the stock oil line just where a previous poster stated. You can see it in my first pic on the right connection. I am OK with that...there is a balance where you want the oil to spend enough time in the cooler to be effectively cooled, plus I didn't feel like cutting and reattaching my stock line on the passenger side to remove it if I removed the one from the second set I used for the drivers side. Both sides should be almost evenly matched for flow restriction, which is key for max heat transfer with parallel systems. I'll report back my results from my next track day, which is the 12th. I know this isn't the 'end-all-be all" solution, but I think it is a good solution using stock coolers and mounting, which is what I wanted.
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      09-04-2019, 10:29 AM   #37
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Thanks for the update. I think it is pretty awesome that you figured out the parallel setup.

Looking forward to hearing how it performs on track.

I learned about a new product yesterday that I thought was interesting. It is a lower temp thermostat that replaces the stock thermostat. The nice thing is it opens at a slightly lower temp than stock, which is good for a mostly street car. I plan to order one and have it ready to go when I end up doing the oil cooler upgrade (I know, probably a waste of money but I like the ides of the oil starting to circulate a little sooner).

I wouldn't recommend ordering from the manufacturers website because shipping is crazy. ECS sells the product as well and I confirmed with their customer service that it is the same product as the one on FTP's website.

Manufacturers website: https://www.ftpmotorsport.com.tw/pro...l-cooler-valve

ECS tuning: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ftp-moto...s/sg84006~ftp/
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      09-05-2019, 09:43 PM   #38
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The OEM thermostat does not flow 100% it may open 100% it does not flow 100%. I have never seen any BMW oil thermostat that opens and flows 100% from the E30 to the E8x era.

All aftermarket in line thermostats open and flow 100%, or every one I have ever used.

The OEM restrictor is there to keep the oil in the cooler slightly longer to cool it more. I actually removed one and cut it out just to look at how much it restricted flow rate.

Excuse my late reply i have a race shop and rarely have time to get on forums these days. I will try to start a thread on out 135 race car build since it will use a few not normal pieces.
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      09-06-2019, 04:10 PM   #39
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Thanks for coming back to reply. I’m sure many of us would love to hear about your race car. Looking forward to the thread.
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      09-07-2019, 11:02 PM   #40
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Interesting observation: The design of the OFH seems straightforward but the measurements I took tonight we're puzzling:. After a 30 min drive on the street I observed the following:

Ambient:64F
Dash oil temp: 225F
Passenger side pipe temps at cooler:87/84F
Drivers side pipe temps at cooler::104/96F

Temps measured with IR thermometer.

It appears that flow is favoring the new path? Strange. Isn't the internal path in the OFH two open cylinders for the flow connections? I am just surprised at the magnitude of the difference.

Also, when does the stock thermostat start to open?

In any case, I look forward to seeing what happens when I max it on the track next week.
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      09-09-2019, 04:10 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Interesting observation: The design of the OFH seems straightforward but the measurements I took tonight we're puzzling:. After a 30 min drive on the street I observed the following:

Ambient:64F
Dash oil temp: 225F
Passenger side pipe temps at cooler:87/84F
Drivers side pipe temps at cooler::104/96F

Temps measured with IR thermometer.

It appears that flow is favoring the new path? Strange. Isn't the internal path in the OFH two open cylinders for the flow connections? I am just surprised at the magnitude of the difference.

Also, when does the stock thermostat start to open?

In any case, I look forward to seeing what happens when I max it on the track next week.
Your theory that "Flow is favoring the new path" and the temp measurements presented are interesting. I'd like to hear your thought process on coming up with that conclusion.

Are the two temp measurements IR readings of the hoses, one inlet temp the other outlet temp? Do you think length and routing of the hoses (bends, fittings, etc) might have any play here?

You do show a higher temp drop (if those are inlet and outlet temps) across the driver side cooler, I wonder why that one is more efficient. Maybe better airflow? That well wheel piece looks a lot more open than the OEM one I remember on the passenger side.
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      09-09-2019, 10:13 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Your theory that "Flow is favoring the new path" and the temp measurements presented are interesting. I'd like to hear your thought process on coming up with that conclusion.

Are the two temp measurements IR readings of the hoses, one inlet temp the other outlet temp? Do you think length and routing of the hoses (bends, fittings, etc) might have any play here?

You do show a higher temp drop (if those are inlet and outlet temps) across the driver side cooler, I wonder why that one is more efficient. Maybe better airflow? That well wheel piece looks a lot more open than the OEM one I remember on the passenger side.
Yes, IR on inlet and outlet piping closest to the cooler.

I would consider airflow the same.

Hoses are identical on both sides and routed similarly. Fittings are different but IMO shouldn't be that different. If anything the Mishimoto banjos would radiate a lot more heat.

I expected some difference, just not that much.

I read that the OEM thermostat starts to open at 230F so this just may be trickle flow and conduction heat transfer via the fluid.
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      09-15-2019, 10:50 PM   #43
AndyW
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So, it works! I had temps up to 270F last track day. Today the max was about 255F. On one 30 min session with one cooldown lap, dash temp was about 235F, inlet/outlet on both sides were about 160F/140F (within 5F of each other) as measured by IR thermometer.
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'12 E82-PS2,Stoptechs,Clubsports+M3 bits,Accusump,Wagner DP+EVO III FMIC,ERCP,BMS Intake,Mason Strut Bar,Wedge Tune
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      09-16-2019, 08:35 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
So, it works! I had temps up to 270F last track day. Today the max was about 255F. On one 30 min session with one cooldown lap, dash temp was about 235F, inlet/outlet on both sides were about 160F/140F (within 5F of each other) as measured by IR thermometer.
Glad to see that it's working out for you!
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