BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      05-01-2015, 10:03 AM   #1
dcaron9999
Major
dcaron9999's Avatar
Canada
155
Rep
1,409
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i M package
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mirabel, Quebec

iTrader: (0)

135i caliper rebuild - StopTech vs RacingBrake

Created this thread as a reference, and to collect input from you track guys that have attacked the 135i caliper rebuild, due to the crumbling BMW piston phenolic plastic issue, when exposed to hign temperature (after a few track, lapping, or HPDE events).

There are two major players in the caliper rebuilt kit field: StopTech and RacingBrake.

Claims from RB: "Aluminum piston is an inferior material comparing to stainless steel. SS piston transfer about 1/10 of heat transfer rate and has better strength and rigidity comparing to OE's aluminum pistons. For stock 135i piston, the bottom part is of stainless steel and only top part is Phenolic plastic (may be Brembo use it for extra height and that's where cracks), so if you use Turner's kit aluminium you are downgrading the material. Our pistons have vents to further reduce heat transfer to fluid). By using our SS pistons you also can save the use of titanium shims which can cost you ~ $150 and w/o losing the braking efficiency + losing the firm pedal feel when the shims are used."

As some of you know, RB have had quality issues with their seals. Several members exposing their RB psitons seals to cold weather, have reported fluid leaks. RB have acknowledged this, and are working on a seal re-design, but have no ETA. Other issue is their "high temp" dust boots cannot be exposed to any brake fluid or they will fail. Good luck not getting them contaminated during the rebuild...

RB demand a premium price for their parts. Based on feedback from member "Focusedintntions", the RB dust boots resist heat extremes better than the StopTech boots which he destroyed after a single lapping day.
See his review here --> http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=105

Pictures of RB pistons and regular low temp dust boots: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=89

Claims from Turner for the StopTechs: " This set of aluminum pistons and seals are from the StopTech line of calipers and are a direct replacement for the Brembo pistons in the 135i. If you want an upgrade to seals and pistons with greater durability than the originals, this is your ideal kit. BMW will sell replacement seals but not the pistons separately. StopTech has been the official brake supplier for our racing team since 2003, ensuring that these parts will stand up to the harshest track environments (periodic seal replacement and rebuilding still recommended). For greater braking performance you should also run brake cooling ducts and higher temp brake fluid."

Handy DIY reference of what is involved for the caliper rebuild can be found here --->: Google search string "135i-gt-Racing-Brake-Stock-Caliper-Piston-Upgrades" ...
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 05-02-2015 at 06:58 PM..
Appreciate 2
      05-01-2015, 07:08 PM   #2
John_01
Colonel
John_01's Avatar
Australia
232
Rep
2,643
Posts

Drives: E90 325i, E82 135i
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (0)

I thought it was common sense that Aluminium will transfer more heat than Stainless steel. The stock Phenolic and steel pistons probably have the least heat transfer overall. If the pistons are not damaged, I prefer to keep the stock ones. However I'm interested to know if there is a more durable alternative for the dust boots.
Appreciate 0
      05-01-2015, 08:11 PM   #3
dcaron9999
Major
dcaron9999's Avatar
Canada
155
Rep
1,409
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i M package
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mirabel, Quebec

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by John_01 View Post
I thought it was common sense that Aluminium will transfer more heat than Stainless steel. The stock Phenolic and steel pistons probably have the least heat transfer overall. If the pistons are not damaged, I prefer to keep the stock ones. However I'm interested to know if there is a more durable alternative for the dust boots.
I actually had one of my 12 front stock phenolic plastic pistons that started to chip on the edge. I carefully used my dremel tool like a dentist would, to help smoothen the surface out, with good results. What was surprising was how easy the phenolic material could be ground down. They are probably very frail due to the several cycles of extreme heat attained at the track, or the tops are just very fragile by design.

My ideal combo will likely be RB pistons with their ribbed/reduced contact surface area, third party seals, and either standard or high temp dust boots. The dust boots will probably need to be replaced once a year, so maybe buying a few sets ahead of time is wise.
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 05-02-2015 at 07:02 PM..
Appreciate 0
      05-01-2015, 10:03 PM   #4
joeo
Lieutenant
120
Rep
475
Posts

Drives: 2009 Crimson Red 135i
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling, Va

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2009 BMM 135i  [9.50]
I rebuilt using the turner motorsports kit (stoptech) - and yes - the dust boots will still melt/crack after a track weekend. What I noticed when doing the rebuild is that the stock seals were still fine even though the pistons were crumbled.
As far as the boots go (if memory serves - correct me if I'm wrong) you can replace the boots without taking the caliper apart as they just press on. I'm going to treat this as a maintenance item and just drive the thing.

-Joe
Appreciate 1
      05-01-2015, 10:56 PM   #5
Ginger_Extract
California-bound
Ginger_Extract's Avatar
United_States
383
Rep
1,480
Posts

Drives: BMW 135i
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA

iTrader: (3)

My issue is the seals. My pistons are fine, dust boots are pretty much gone. My pass front caliper is lightly dragging, so my guess is that the seal got contaminated and needs replaced/calipers rebuilt.
__________________
Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18
https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3
Appreciate 1
      05-02-2015, 05:44 AM   #6
dcaron9999
Major
dcaron9999's Avatar
Canada
155
Rep
1,409
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i M package
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mirabel, Quebec

iTrader: (0)

Bought my 2011 135i used back in June of 2013 with 48,000Kms. Im just starting my third season of lapping and HPDE events almost every week, with 71,000 Kms on the odo.

Im still on original pistons, seals, and disintegrated dust boots. Ive been using 0.5mm Ti heat shields from Hardbrake.com since the first season. This protects the caliper pistons and brake fluid from some of the heat, but also keeps more heat in the pad, potentially surpassing their operating heat range of the pad. Ive installed custom home-made cooling ducts attached to the center of my brake dust shields, pointed at the hub as much as possible.

With all of the above, Ive been getting faster on the track, increasing power on my N55 engine (FBO and custom tune), and increasing grip (wider tires and wheel in the front). This obviously demands more out of the brakes. I do not get consistent brake performance on certain tracks - I get brake fade about mid way through my 20 minutes stints. When this happens, I lift and use the brakes less.

My current pads are PFC08's, have about 3/16" of material left, and I may have outgrown them, as mentioned earlier. I have a set of Project Mu Club Racer RC09 pads sitting on my workbench right now, which I used for a few events, before trying the PFC08's. I recall that they tolerated heat better than the PFC08's (see specs below).

I will be installing the RC09's before hitting my full day event at LCMT (Le circuit Mont Tremblant) in about a week. At the time I used the RC09 pads, they were fade free, even without the cooling duct mod I did just recently. The only thing is that the RC09 are noisier than the PFC08's when used on the street.

Quick Reference for operating temperature of popular track pads
Performance Friction PFC08: 100*C-700*C
Carbotech XP10: Max of 800*C
Project Mu RC09: 300*C- 800*C
Hawk DTC-60: 205*C-871*C
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 05-13-2015 at 12:38 AM..
Appreciate 0
      09-03-2015, 02:01 PM   #7
dcaron9999
Major
dcaron9999's Avatar
Canada
155
Rep
1,409
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i M package
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mirabel, Quebec

iTrader: (0)

This just in ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by racingbrake View Post
Pistons are now chrome plated which shall eliminate the potential leaking issue under freezing temperature.


Looks like RB revised their piston surfacing process, after complaints of abrasion and destruction of seals ...

See this post --->

I was one of the customers with leaking brakes. I ended up gently sanding the cups with 3000 grain polish padsafter I went through my first seal rubbers, which make the brakes leak a lot less, but still did not stop it. So instead of tracking my car more, I didn't track it at all last year due to unreliable brakes

My seal rings totally gave up again about 6 weeks ago. I had to resource them elsewhere (RB didn't have them), because I was going through a bottle of Motul RBF600 a week, which is not fun at all.

Because the stainless cups I got from RB were actually sort of a half fabricat, meaning they are made to spec size on a lathe, but nothing beyond that, I now bought myself a polish machine and polish finishing paste, and polished them to a very smooth and shiney finish, just like the OEM cups that came out of the calipers to begin with.
It only took 0,02mm of the diameter of the cups when fully polished, and now the brake feels like new (brake pedal returns just like it did when OEM, no more sluggish return of the pedal) and no more leaking at all.
I highly recommend this treatment to everyone who receives the Stainless cups if they are not yet shiney polished.
You will kick yourself after a week or 3 once your brakes start leaking when the tiny ribbs eat through the pressure seals.

Best of luck.
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Appreciate 0
      09-03-2015, 07:14 PM   #8
Bullitt
Major
Bullitt's Avatar
91
Rep
1,168
Posts

Drives: 135i
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SF Bay Area

iTrader: (18)

Garage List
2008 135i  [0.00]
I wonder when they started surfacing their pistons with chrome plating. It's been a few months since installing their pistons with stock pressure seals and everything has been fine so far after a couple autocross events and a trackday. Somehow can't remember now if mine were shiny or polished...
Appreciate 0
      09-04-2015, 08:57 AM   #9
dcaron9999
Major
dcaron9999's Avatar
Canada
155
Rep
1,409
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i M package
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mirabel, Quebec

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
I wonder when they started surfacing their pistons with chrome plating. It's been a few months since installing their pistons with stock pressure seals and everything has been fine so far after a couple autocross events and a trackday. Somehow can't remember now if mine were shiny or polished...
Since your pistons and seals will never be exposed to freezing weather like your northern neighbors in Canada, perhaps you will not run into the issue. Im hoping that chrome plating will last when exposed to several cycles of extreme temperature (sessions at the track in the summer, and errands in the Winter).

If you noticed, one user who I quoted in my previous post, polished the pistons himself to address the seal premature wear issue. This obviously has nothing to do with leaking due to temperature extremes ...

RB did not mention when exactly they changed to "chrome plating" ...
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 09-04-2015 at 10:29 AM..
Appreciate 0
      09-04-2015, 12:22 PM   #10
Ginger_Extract
California-bound
Ginger_Extract's Avatar
United_States
383
Rep
1,480
Posts

Drives: BMW 135i
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
I wonder when they started surfacing their pistons with chrome plating. It's been a few months since installing their pistons with stock pressure seals and everything has been fine so far after a couple autocross events and a trackday. Somehow can't remember now if mine were shiny or polished...
x2. Rebuilt my calipers about 2 months ago, hope I got the good stuff. Granted, I live in Socal, but still.
__________________
Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18
https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3
Appreciate 0
      09-04-2015, 12:52 PM   #11
135TX
Lieutenant
89
Rep
527
Posts

Drives: '11 135i
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Austin, Texas

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
x2. Rebuilt my calipers about 2 months ago, hope I got the good stuff. Granted, I live in Socal, but still.
about to order everything from RB, how easy is the rebuild? anyone want to venture a DIY? I have changed my rotors pads and sensors, but this seems a little more intense, im kinda scared. haha

any tips or should i pay a professional?
__________________
Exhaust, Flash tune, Suspension, LSD, Wheels/tires....
Quote:
Originally Posted by IEDEI View Post
You'll never regret pursuing what you really want....ever. You will, however, regret NOT doing things you wanted to do.
Appreciate 0
      09-04-2015, 01:02 PM   #12
dcaron9999
Major
dcaron9999's Avatar
Canada
155
Rep
1,409
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i M package
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mirabel, Quebec

iTrader: (0)

See this DIY ... and determine if you are up to the task.

I think Im up for the task at hand, even with my first caliper rebuild ever ...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=824046
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Appreciate 1
lab_rat394.50
      09-04-2015, 01:10 PM   #13
Ginger_Extract
California-bound
Ginger_Extract's Avatar
United_States
383
Rep
1,480
Posts

Drives: BMW 135i
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 135TX View Post
about to order everything from RB, how easy is the rebuild? anyone want to venture a DIY? I have changed my rotors pads and sensors, but this seems a little more intense, im kinda scared. haha

any tips or should i pay a professional?
I took a bunch of pictures, I will try to make a write up. I'd never done it before. If you have an air supply to blow the pistons out, you can do it. I actually couldn't find a shop locally that would do it with a decent turn around time. I did it over the course of a weekend.
__________________
Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18
https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3
Appreciate 3
      09-04-2015, 01:13 PM   #14
135TX
Lieutenant
89
Rep
527
Posts

Drives: '11 135i
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Austin, Texas

iTrader: (5)

Also i thought id share, my bmw logo is now yellow from the heat.

This company specializes in caliper rebuilds and powder coating. They quoted me ~$400 for the rebuild and powder, with me supplying rb components.
http://www.detectivecoating.com/brem...ct/id=46309041
Looks like they do good work... but could take over a week to turn them around...

My indy guy said it would be around an hour per corner to rebuild and he would include a bleed (and would throw on whatever pads I wanted), so that was $400 alone but I get my car back the same day.

at this point I'm exploring all options. Any help regarding rebuild instructions would be phenomenal!!!
__________________
Exhaust, Flash tune, Suspension, LSD, Wheels/tires....
Quote:
Originally Posted by IEDEI View Post
You'll never regret pursuing what you really want....ever. You will, however, regret NOT doing things you wanted to do.
Appreciate 0
      09-04-2015, 01:17 PM   #15
135TX
Lieutenant
89
Rep
527
Posts

Drives: '11 135i
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Austin, Texas

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
See this DIY ... and determine if you are up to the task.

I think Im up for the task at hand, even with my first caliper rebuild ever ...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=824046
Thats awesome thanks man! yeah i may be up to the task

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
I took a bunch of pictures, I will try to make a write up. I'd never done it before. If you have an air supply to blow the pistons out, you can do it. I actually couldn't find a shop locally that would do it with a decent turn around time. I did it over the course of a weekend.
Yeah Jake, that would be great to have a recent perspective. I dont have air supply but it would give me a reason to pick up a compressor, first stop garage sale, next craigslist, last resort Harbor MF Freight


What do ya'll think of the above prices/options? Note that includes F&R
__________________
Exhaust, Flash tune, Suspension, LSD, Wheels/tires....
Quote:
Originally Posted by IEDEI View Post
You'll never regret pursuing what you really want....ever. You will, however, regret NOT doing things you wanted to do.
Appreciate 0
      09-04-2015, 01:48 PM   #16
Ginger_Extract
California-bound
Ginger_Extract's Avatar
United_States
383
Rep
1,480
Posts

Drives: BMW 135i
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA

iTrader: (3)

Prices seem very fair for both options. Rebuilding the calipers wasn't hard, but it was a bit tedious, as it was something I had never done before.
__________________
Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18
https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3
Appreciate 0
      09-04-2015, 02:28 PM   #17
Bullitt
Major
Bullitt's Avatar
91
Rep
1,168
Posts

Drives: 135i
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SF Bay Area

iTrader: (18)

Garage List
2008 135i  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
x2. Rebuilt my calipers about 2 months ago, hope I got the good stuff. Granted, I live in Socal, but still.
RB said mine has the new surface so yours should too
Appreciate 0
      09-08-2015, 05:14 PM   #18
katsooba
First Lieutenant
katsooba's Avatar
84
Rep
354
Posts

Drives: bmw 135i
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Israel

iTrader: (0)

so all new orders are getting the new nickle coating?
__________________
135i N55 / KW V3 / MHD Flash / Tons of grip mods / CP-E charge pipe / CP-E 7" FMIC
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2015, 11:09 AM   #19
dcaron9999
Major
dcaron9999's Avatar
Canada
155
Rep
1,409
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i M package
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mirabel, Quebec

iTrader: (0)

I finally decided to purchase front+rear RB SS pistons, with high temp dust boots. The components are of good quality. As I was opening the brake lines, I also bought SS brake lines for a different manufacturer. I set aside one full day, and worked on one corner at a time, starting with the simpler rear passenger side. The driver side mid lines (two short lines) are a royal PITA due to limited space (between chassis and subframe).

For the caliper rebuild, I use two work benches, and two sets of vinyl gloves to prevent contamination of high temp silicone dust boots (incompatible with brake fluid) and to keep caliper bores and pistons dry and clean.

#1 - First bench to dismount old pistons and clean everything up, including cylinder seal grooves, and dust boot cavities. Prior to cleaning, it is best to stick a piece of paper towel down into each cylinder to prevent debris from creeping in there. Plan for a ton of brake cleaner fluid and paper towels. Compressed air helped to blow any remaning debris out, and speed up the drying process.

You should have seen the surface of the stock pistons - they had grime on them, were a bit scuffed likely because of the dirt infiltration due to the damaged dust boots. Some of the piston phenolic plastic tops (especially outer ones were crumbling and would turn to dust at the slighest contact. One of the piston tops fell off when I injected compressed air into the caliper.

#2 - Second bench to mount new pistons, seals, and boots. Use plenty of light, and inspect inside of caliper cylinders, grooves, cavities, for any sign of debris or dirt. Call me anal but I used a different pair of gloves at this point, to keep everything clean and avoid contamination. This is where I applied the supplied high temp grease onto the seals, and upper cylinder walls. I mounted the dust boots onto the piston prior to insertion into cylinders.

Braking now feals a lot more predictable and solid on the street, but I will confirm at the track this week. There is no longer a trace of sticky pistons and squeaking pads. Brake rotors are more shiny due to strong and even pressure exerted by pistons on the brake pads, especially in the rear.

Should have done this earlier ... This rebuild will give the 6-piston front and 2-piston rear stock calipers a second life, for a fraction of the price of two BBK's ...
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 09-29-2015 at 08:12 AM..
Appreciate 1
      09-28-2015, 07:20 PM   #20
Bullitt
Major
Bullitt's Avatar
91
Rep
1,168
Posts

Drives: 135i
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SF Bay Area

iTrader: (18)

Garage List
2008 135i  [0.00]
Good job! I just did the rears recently. The rear dust boots were all cracked and the stock pistons were pretty stuck in their bores.

I checked the high temperature dust boots in the front calipers after a few track events, and unfortunately, a couple of them have started to crack I don't have brake ducting installed like you though.
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2015, 09:40 PM   #21
_Ryan_
Captain
No_Country
59
Rep
741
Posts

Drives: E87 130i
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Melbourne, AU

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2005 BMW 130i  [5.24]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post

Braking now feals a lot more predictable and solid on the street, but I will confirm at the track this week. There is no longer a trace of sticky pistons and squeaking pads. Brake rotors are more shiny due to strong and even pressure exerted by pistons on the brake pads, especially in the rear.
You have my attention! I've crumbled pads in the past but a visual inspection of the piston & boot had me thinking they were OK. Everything is a bit squeaky and it reminds me of something sticking- once I tap the brakes the noise will go away for a little while.

Keep me posted!
Appreciate 0
      09-29-2015, 08:00 AM   #22
dcaron9999
Major
dcaron9999's Avatar
Canada
155
Rep
1,409
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i M package
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mirabel, Quebec

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
Good job! I just did the rears recently. The rear dust boots were all cracked and the stock pistons were pretty stuck in their bores.

I checked the high temperature dust boots in the front calipers after a few track events, and unfortunately, a couple of them have started to crack I don't have brake ducting installed like you though.
That is disappointing. I read somewhere that most of the race teams do not bother with dust boots at all - most if not all of the boots all eventually melt and disintegrate due to heat. This means more frequent maintenance and potentially rebuilds if you visit the track often enough.

Perhaps regular rebuilds can be avoided with careful preventive clean ups, and lubrication of the top of the pistons with high temp synthetic grease (portion above seal).
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 09-29-2015 at 08:29 AM..
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:22 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST