No turning back (track focus)

[ilikebmxbikes]

Honestly solid subframe bushings should be high priority. Solid subframe was on the e92 gts, f10 m5 and on all the F8x M cars. It eliminates so much slop and rubber banding in the rear. Lots of people feel this symptom I describe and think coilovers are the solution. I have never heard anyone go solid subframe and regret it. Do it. Labor is a bit much and it's not a sexy part but man will it improve your car.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes

Honestly solid subframe bushings should be high priority. Solid subframe was on the e92 gts, f10 m5 and on all the F8x M cars. It eliminates so much slop and rubber banding in the rear. Lots of people feel this symptom I describe and think coilovers are the solution. I have never heard anyone go solid subframe and regret it. Do it. Labor is a bit much and it's not a sexy part but man will it improve your car.

I did the delrin ones in my garage, I was able to do it over the course of a few days. Not a bad DIY honestly. Just make sure to rent the tool from HPA or rig one up.

[Dr1]

The Leroy trailer has arrived and is assembled. Going to wire the car tomorrow. I'll repost a refresher on the tail light wiring diagram/instructions that I've found here in the forums. I'll get some cage pictures up too as requested. Here is a sneak peak of the Leroy Paddock250. 1 man assembly took about 70 minutes (including attaching tail lights and storage box which is not pictured here). More photos once the sun returns.

[Dr1]

Couldn't be happier with the Leroy Paddock trailer. I put a handful of miles on it today and it performed better than expected with it's mini coilovers. No bouncing. No seesawing. Tracks dead straight.

Leroyengineering.com

[Dr1]

Originally Posted by spxxx

But what about RSFB?

Awesome build, let's connect on options for the passenger airbag issue (I have a 2008 btw). Would love more pics of the cage!

Some more photos of the cage (roll bar/harness bar)

[Dr1]

For those curious about trailer harness wiring, here is the wiring assignments for e82/e90/e92:

Driver's Side:
grey/yellow= brake
blue/green= left turn
grey/purple= running lights

Passenger's Side: *
blue/brown= right turn

For the ground I used the established ground point for the tail lights behind the trunk cover on the rear driver's side wheel well (photo below).

[mabrahams]

So what's the long term goal of the car? On a side note regarding passenger occupancy sensors; you can always try BimmerGeeks; they can remote into your laptop while you are connected to the car and then code out those sensors. If you haven't done that already, I'd also look into common traction control value adjustments and code out the caliper adjustments to get consistent brake pedal.

Nice build!

[Dr1]

Originally Posted by mabrahams

So what's the long term goal of the car? On a side note regarding passenger occupancy sensors; you can always try BimmerGeeks; they can remote into your laptop while you are connected to the car and then code out those sensors. If you haven't done that already, I'd also look into common traction control value adjustments and code out the caliper adjustments to get consistent brake pedal.

Nice build!

My long term goal for the car is for track only use. I don't daily drive it as is, but my residence now in the city I do not have room for a full size trailer to transport the car. For the next couple years I hope to keep the car street legal for driving to events, hence the Leroy trailer. Goal is to pass state inspection, so coding is be a must. Street legality is the reason I have retained the factory 3 point restraints and the reason I have to yoga my way into the car around the factory steering wheel.

So as of right now I am still lit up like Christmas tree on the dash. That is great info to know about remote coding. I did not know that was an option. I'll have to do some more research to determine exactly what I need on my end as far as software and cables.

I had contacted BrenTuning (local to me) but they will only do coding as an add-on to a dyno tune because it is too small of a job :/

I've been looking into coding options for traction control as well. I've been using the sticky in this forum and the write up below for reference.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/bmw135i...k-nannies/amp/

[odj]

Originally Posted by Dr1

I've been looking into coding options for traction control as well. I've been using the sticky in this forum and the write up below for reference.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/bmw135i...k-nannies/amp/

I did the following recently, before hitting the track for three days:

(C0F_DIFF_LOCK wert_02 -> wert_00, wert_01; C0F_FBS (brake fading compensation) wert_01->wert_00; C0F_FLR (Power reduction to prevent brake disc overheating) wert_01 -> wert_00, wert_02; C0F_BB_RAB wert_01 -> wert_00)

and I can say that my previous brake issues have disappeared. I've got a linear pedal everywhere. It's great. I highly recommend.

[mabrahams]

Originally Posted by Dr1

So as of right now I am still lit up like Christmas tree on the dash. That is great info to know about remote coding. I did not know that was an option. I'll have to do some more research to determine exactly what I need on my end as far as software and cables.

You can purchase everything from BG directly. https://www.bimmergeeks.net/
Highly recommend them!

Has the car been on any tracks yet or still in the building phases? I think a lot of 135i cars are running a bigger tire setup than 245s and some even staggered.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by mabrahams

You can purchase everything from BG directly. https://www.bimmergeeks.net/
Highly recommend them!

Has the car been on any tracks yet or still in the building phases? I think a lot of 135i cars are running a bigger tire setup than 245s and some even staggered.

255/275 is about as you can go with stock fenders.

Too bad there isn't a NT01 for our front

[Dr1]

Originally Posted by mabrahams

You can purchase everything from BG directly. https://www.bimmergeeks.net/
Highly recommend them!

Has the car been on any tracks yet or still in the building phases? I think a lot of 135i cars are running a bigger tire setup than 245s and some even staggered.

I currently use the car on track, but this is the first year I have really focused on getting as much seat time as possible. At my current residence in the city I do not have the space to store a full size trailer so for the time being I want to retain street legality for driving to and from events, hence the Leroy trailer and retaining factory 3 point belts.

As far as coding goes, thank you for the lead in bimmergeeks. I am in contract with them now. Much, much appreciated!

For tires sizes, I have been running staggered 235/255 for a few years and decided to move to a square setup for better rotation. I haven't put the square setup on yet as I am still using up the last of my 235/255 tires.

[Dr1]

Originally Posted by odj

I did the following recently, before hitting the track for three days:

(C0F_DIFF_LOCK wert_02 -> wert_00, wert_01; C0F_FBS (brake fading compensation) wert_01->wert_00; C0F_FLR (Power reduction to prevent brake disc overheating) wert_01 -> wert_00, wert_02; C0F_BB_RAB wert_01 -> wert_00)

and I can say that my previous brake issues have disappeared. I've got a linear pedal everywhere. It's great. I highly recommend.

Big shout out to BimmerGeeks for the coding today. We took care of the seat retrofit (passenger airbag sensor module), FBS and FLR. No diff coding because I am still open. Start to finish the remote coding took about 20 minutes. R1wheelieforfun had coding done this weekend as well and also had a positive experience. Thank you again for the info.

Seatbelt coding for the warning light is not available (or possible) so the transplant of the factory receptacle onto the new seats (5 minute process) was a good idea for my application. Either plug your factory belt into the receptacle behind your new seat or order a dummy off eBay and leave it plugged.

Also of note, I also installed the Whiteline RSFB inserts as a stopgap ($45 on Amazon) until this winter/spring when I go for the Turner solids as recommended above (actually everywhere).

Whiteline insert tools needed:
- E18 female Torx (subframe bolts, tighten to 74 lb-ft) **most off-the-shelf kits stop at E16**
- socket extender (if your E18 socket is "short")
- 15mm socket (diagonal chassis brackets, good'n tight)
- 19mm socket (x-brace brackets, good'n tight)
- 2 jack stands (remove rear wheels for install)
- floor jack (to raise and lower RSF via the diff housing)
- no air tools? use breaker bar/long ratchet/short ratchet+jack handle to "start" the E18 bolts, after that they will loosen by hand

My bushings came without lube but were a very "slippery" texture out of the package. I was able to install them easily without any additional lube. There are many posts here in this forum on the install process which is very straightforward and took me just over 1 hour with zero experience manipulating the RSF.

Here is some info that was not straightforward in other posts from my perspective. The rear inserts are simple but for the fronts:
- Completely remove the single bolt holding the X-brace to the subframe
- Diagonal brackets bolt the RSF to the chassis with 2 bolts. Loosen the hard to reach bolt halfway and completely remove the easy to access bolt. This will allow for the diagonal bracket to swing out the way so you can lower the front of the RSF.

It was a humbling result. It is one thing reading about the improvement but feeling it?

[Dr1]

Just finished up install of the OMG front splitter (http://www.omgsplitters.com). I posted a DIY here: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1426908

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by Dr1

Just finished up install of the OMG front splitter (http://www.omgsplitters.com). I posted a DIY here: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1426908

Oh I wish I knew you were looking for a splitter. I make them occasionally and mine have subframe mounts for folks who track. Same ABS design as the "OMG" ones

I wouldn't trust a splitter above 120mph without sturdy attachment points, I filmed some runs with and without the subframe attachments and there is a lot of movement. I now have 3 splitter bars and the subframe mount on mine. I'm moving to a slightly larger front splitter in the next month too!

Looks great though

[bNks334]

Originally Posted by spxxx

Oh I wish I knew you were looking for a splitter. I make them occasionally and mine have subframe mounts for folks who track. Same ABS design as the "OMG" ones

I wouldn't trust a splitter above 120mph without sturdy attachment points, I filmed some runs with and without the subframe attachments and there is a lot of movement. I now have 3 splitter bars and the subframe mount on mine. I'm moving to a slightly larger front splitter in the next month too!

Looks great though

Any more details on what you did to attach to the sub-frame?

I am working on making my own air dam and the plan is to extend it out with an abs splitter as well (form the splitter to the bumper with the air dam). Basically, I will re-create the 1M splitter that has the brake ducts built in.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by bNks334

Any more details on what you did to attach to the sub-frame?

I am working on making my own air dam and the plan is to extend it out with an abs splitter as well (form the splitter to the bumper with the air dam). Basically, I will re-create the 1M splitter that has the brake ducts built in.

Ahhh I promise I'll get some this week

The easiest thing to do is to spin the underbody panel mounts around and use long screws through the splitter and under tray to those points.

I'm going to mount this eBay air dam that my buddy gave me in between the splitter and the bumper to help with drag. Kinda like the E90 m3 guys do with the Apr splitter + the gts? lip with brake ducts.

[Dr1]

Originally Posted by spxxx

Ahhh I promise I'll get some this week

The easiest thing to do is to spin the underbody panel mounts around and use long screws through the splitter and under tray to those points.

I'm going to mount this eBay air dam that my buddy gave me in between the splitter and the bumper to help with drag. Kinda like the E90 m3 guys do with the Apr splitter + the gts? lip with brake ducts.

I?m interested in photos of the subframe mounts if you have them on hand.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by Dr1

I?m interested in photos of the subframe mounts if you have them on hand.

Well version 1 of my subframe mounts were just long bolts that went through the splitter then through the undertray and into the OEM tray mounts that bolt to the subframe.

Version two uses those same mounting points but more rigid aluminum L that bolts on and have two pieces of aluminum that come down through two small holes in the undertray and bolt to the splitter (with same aluminum L brackets attached on the rear side of splitter)

Pretty simple and total cost of splitter with mounts is sub $150

[Dr1]

Club Motorsport

[berns]

Looks awesome!

What size ARC8's are you running for your square setup with the 245 R888s?
Camber specs?

[Dr1]

Originally Posted by berns

Looks awesome!

What size ARC8's are you running for your square setup with the 245 R888s?
Camber specs?

Thanks man!

18x8.5 et45 square

-2.5 front
-2.0 rear