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[kirkbar]

Originally Posted by uberschnell

E9x suspension and E82 suspension more or less the same thing:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15397

Couple tips, use the impact hammer and the vice grips (with a towel or leather belt) to bust off the spring nut. And put blue tape all around the inside edge where you rotate the strut in and out of the well, tends to get nicked.

Yes, the suspension is the same but the fenders are different. If you leave the knuckle on the car, in order to get the strut assembly out, you will need to compress the spring in order to clear the fender.

I was able to remove one side using my foot on the knuckle and body weight to gain clearance, but slightly compressing the spring is SO much easier!

All the DIY's I found were for e90's - where they simply rotated the assembly out. I was like WTF! when doing this on my E82!

[drunkenmagnum]

Great pointers and thanks for the help all. I will be replacing the strut soon and I am hoping that is the only thing bent (although it still appears perfectly straight). If it still rubs, I will try to dissect the problem further peice by peice.

In the meantime, I threw a 3mm spacer on and it cleared the strut. 3mm is about the width of a nickel and thats all it needed. I was able to get a full six turns from the lugs and the wheels back on tight. This will have to last for a couple of weeks until I can rip the front suspension apart. I am getting it re-aligned this weekend so as to not ruin the tires.

[TheBreeze]

Originally Posted by drunkenmagnum

Great pointers and thanks for the help all. I will be replacing the strut soon and I am hoping that is the only thing bent (although it still appears perfectly straight). If it still rubs, I will try to dissect the problem further peice by peice.

In the meantime, I threw a 3mm spacer on and it cleared the strut. 3mm is about the width of a nickel and thats all it needed. I was able to get a full six turns from the lugs and the wheels back on tight. This will have to last for a couple of weeks until I can rip the front suspension apart. I am getting it re-aligned this weekend so as to not ruin the tires.

Just be aware that you will have to realign again once you replace the bent strut. Personally, unless the car is pulling or the wheel is way center, I'd leave it alone. I doubt you'll damage your tires driving a few hundred miles. Just take it easy until you can get it fixed right. No sense in paying for an alignment multiple times.

[eric.jube]

Originally Posted by TheBreeze

It's actually a fairly easy suspension to work on. I've done it several times using different techniques (the first time I followed the DIY posted by uberschnell .. he's correct in that the e9x and e8x are the same - they even share all the same part numbers). Personally I prefer to remove the caliper (unhook the brake line at the where it connects to the hard line and cap it off) and rotor, unbolt/disconnect the sway bar end link, unbolt the ABS sensor, then unbolt the tie rod and suspension arms, and finally remove the entire knuckle/strut assembly and work on it off the car. (Removing the caliper and rotor makes the whole thing WAY lighter and much easier to handle.) To get the strut off the knuckle, I just use a hammer and a pickle-fork to spread apart the knuckle clamp. For reassembly, you just reverse the process. This saves you the hassle of having to use/fit the spring compressor inside the fender well, and it saves you having to worry about messing up your fender trying to wrestle the strut assembly out from under the car. Once you get the whole thing together, bleed the brakes (using a Motive bleeder is the easiest/quickest way), and you're ready to roll. Using this method, I can do a strut/spring swap in about 2-3 hours total for both sides.

I actually just had the same issue with my strut being bent, except mine tore up the inside edge of my tire destroying it down to the cords. I ordered a new strut and am actually halfway through the install myself but having some issues.

I watched the e90 stuff but ours is slightly different. I was able to get the strut out by just sliding the knuckle down with my weight. However, after bolting the new strut, I can't get enough clearance to get the knuckle low enough and back onto the new strut. Following the post above, I think I'm going to have just disconnect the sway bars as well in order to get the knuckle back on.

The problem is I don't have any air tools or an impact gun so the bolts keep turning on me while trying to get the nuts off. Any ideas?

This is where I'm at...

[eric.jube]

And this was my tire after I noticed the damage...

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by eric.jube

I actually just had the same issue with my strut being bent, except mine tore up the inside edge of my tire destroying it down to the cords. I ordered a new strut and am actually halfway through the install myself but having some issues.

I watched the e90 stuff but ours is slightly different. I was able to get the strut out by just sliding the knuckle down with my weight. However, after bolting the new strut, I can't get enough clearance to get the knuckle low enough and back onto the new strut. Following the post above, I think I'm going to have just disconnect the sway bars as well in order to get the knuckle back on.

The problem is I don't have any air tools or an impact gun so the bolts keep turning on me while trying to get the nuts off. Any ideas?

This is where I'm at...

The strut needs to go into the knuckle first.

This is what you'll need (well, it will be the easiest). It is basically a socket with a piece on the end to turn the socket and spread.



Once you get the shock in the knuckle, you can rotate it back into the fender and bolt it up on the top strut hat.

After that, connect your sway bar and then tighten back up the control arm...

[eric.jube]

I tried it by putting the strut into the knuckle first but it wasn't even close. I've read and seen videos of the e90 people turning the wheel all the way inside, rotating the mount at the top,etc. but it wasn't even close to get up under the fender with it in the knuckle first. I think I'm just gonna have to disconnect the tie rod and control arms off the knuckle and get it in that way first, then bolt it all back together.

[kirkbar]

Originally Posted by eric.jube

I tried it by putting the strut into the knuckle first but it wasn't even close. I've read and seen videos of the e90 people turning the wheel all the way inside, rotating the mount at the top,etc. but it wasn't even close to get up under the fender with it in the knuckle first. I think I'm just gonna have to disconnect the tie rod and control arms off the knuckle and get it in that way first, then bolt it all back together.

You need to compress the spring on a E82 because the fenders are lower profile compared to a E90.

[TheBreeze]

Originally Posted by eric.jube

I actually just had the same issue with my strut being bent, except mine tore up the inside edge of my tire destroying it down to the cords. I ordered a new strut and am actually halfway through the install myself but having some issues.

I watched the e90 stuff but ours is slightly different. I was able to get the strut out by just sliding the knuckle down with my weight. However, after bolting the new strut, I can't get enough clearance to get the knuckle low enough and back onto the new strut. Following the post above, I think I'm going to have just disconnect the sway bars as well in order to get the knuckle back on.

The problem is I don't have any air tools or an impact gun so the bolts keep turning on me while trying to get the nuts off. Any ideas?

This is where I'm at...

This is why I prefer to just unbolt the tie rod end and control arms and take the entire knuckle off the car. An impact gun certainly helps getting the big lock nuts off, but you can also use a box end wrench and a torx bit. The Torx bit goes in the center of the "bolt" to keep it from spinning while you use the box end wrench to take off the bolts. Once you unbolt the sway bar end links, the sway bar is no longer an issue.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by kirkbar

You need to compress the spring on a E82 because the fenders are lower profile compared to a E90.

You don't need to compress.

You can put some weight on the top of the strut hat and slowly rotate the bolts around and outside the fender.

It is indeed a 2 man job, one to help clear the fender and one to slightly compress the strut/spring.

I turned the wheel to the outside which helped the strut clear and move outside. It is a REALLY tight fit....line the fender with blue painters tape to help avoid and scratching.

[TheBreeze]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

The strut needs to go into the knuckle first.

This is what you'll need (well, it will be the easiest). It is basically a socket with a piece on the end to turn the socket and spread.



Once you get the shock in the knuckle, you can rotate it back into the fender and bolt it up on the top strut hat.

After that, connect your sway bar and then tighten back up the control arm...

Where did you find that tool to spread knuckle? I need me one of them.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by TheBreeze

Where did you find that tool to spread knuckle? I need me one of them.

My friend had it, who borrowed it from TCKline

To be honest, I have no clue.

It is a standard 3/8ths socket, so might be able to find it at a hardware store.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

My friend had it, who borrowed it from TCKline

To be honest, I have no clue.

It is a standard 3/8ths socket, so might be able to find it at a hardware store.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-128...ockets/ES3894/

[fe1rx]

Originally Posted by TheBreeze

This is why I prefer to just unbolt the tie rod end and control arms and take the entire knuckle off the car. An impact gun certainly helps getting the big lock nuts off, but you can also use a box end wrench and a torx bit. The Torx bit goes in the center of the "bolt" to keep it from spinning while you use the box end wrench to take off the bolts. Once you unbolt the sway bar end links, the sway bar is no longer an issue.

Your proposed approach is not at all necessary.

If you loosen the bolts at the inboard ends of the tension strut and wishbone the rubber bushings no longer fight you lowering the knuckle. Taking of the rotor helps too because it reduces the weight of the knuckle. You don't need to disconnect or loosen the ball joints. Once you do this, getting the knuckle slid on the strut tube, which you install first up top in the process, is really easy. Doing it this way everything is one-hand manageable in weight and most definitely not a two-person job.

The two bolts you loosened need to be torqued at ride height though, which practically speaking means you need some ramps to lower the car onto, and a torque wrench.

The strut spreading tool is a great investment if you plan on doing this process more than once.

This picture shows just how easy it is once you loosen those inboard bolts.

[Stupenal]

.

[F80_M3llow]

Having the same issue with my eurotek lm reps. Et45. Test fitted them today and front rims and touching the strut. What do u guys suggest. And for the guys that run the eurotek wheels.

[SalemChiro]

Use this video. I had to compress my spring quite a bit in order to gain clearance for removal/install.

ECS Tuning Coilover Install

[drunkenmagnum]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

If you loosen the bolts at the inboard ends of the tension strut and wishbone the rubber bushings no longer fight you lowering the knuckle.

Do you have a pic of said bolts?

[fe1rx]

Originally Posted by drunkenmagnum

Do you have a pic of said bolts?

Arrows point to the bolts in question.

[yllwwgn]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

Your proposed approach is not at all necessary.

If you loosen the bolts at the inboard ends of the tension strut and wishbone the rubber bushings no longer fight you lowering the knuckle. Taking of the rotor helps too because it reduces the weight of the knuckle. You don't need to disconnect or loosen the ball joints. Once you do this, getting the knuckle slid on the strut tube, which you install first up top in the process, is really easy. Doing it this way everything is one-hand manageable in weight and most definitely not a two-person job.

The two bolts you loosened need to be torqued at ride height though, which practically speaking means you need some ramps to lower the car onto, and a torque wrench.

The strut spreading tool is a great investment if you plan on doing this process more than once.

This picture shows just how easy it is once you loosen those inboard bolts.

Attachment 1010573

^ THIS exactly. Any other approach, and you're just doing it the harder/inefficient way.

[TheBreeze]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

Your proposed approach is not at all necessary.

If you loosen the bolts at the inboard ends of the tension strut and wishbone the rubber bushings no longer fight you lowering the knuckle. Taking of the rotor helps too because it reduces the weight of the knuckle. You don't need to disconnect or loosen the ball joints. Once you do this, getting the knuckle slid on the strut tube, which you install first up top in the process, is really easy. Doing it this way everything is one-hand manageable in weight and most definitely not a two-person job.

The two bolts you loosened need to be torqued at ride height though, which practically speaking means you need some ramps to lower the car onto, and a torque wrench.

The strut spreading tool is a great investment if you plan on doing this process more than once.

This picture shows just how easy it is once you loosen those inboard bolts.

Attachment 1010573

Yeah, I think having that spreader tool is the key. I tried it your way but could never get the knuckle clamp spread enough using a pickle fork, and the funny angles between the control arms and tie rod caused the whole thing to bind when trying to work it loose. Honestly it's so easy to just unbolt the knuckle and remove the whole thing, but then again I use an impact gun. Would be a bitch having to remove it by hand.

[TheBreeze]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-128...ockets/ES3894/

Thanks! Time to order one.