chris_flies' 128i thread

[duder13]

Originally Posted by OnerDriver

You can change all those but they're not all for the DTC becoming more permissive. I didn't do all because I like diff-lock and other things.

But we discussed the changes in posts above this one after the links:

UEBERSTEUERN_MUE_

Thanks. I agree, so I was wondering if there was a single setting that allowed for more "1M like" sliding, like Chris seemed to be saying.

[________]

Originally Posted by duder13

Thanks. I agree, so I was wondering if there was a single setting that allowed for more "1M like" sliding, like Chris seemed to be saying.

That setting appears multiple times with different prefixes. According to the post, the 1M from which the data was extracted contained different Wert numbers for each appearance.
I coded exactly like the post described (one is 1, the other is another number, and all others are 0).

Maybe that's what I did differently and Chris has a better input.

But maybe his is more permissive because he has an LSD and I don't...

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

You mean oversteer? If you coded understeer, then please be careful and don't Audi it into a tree... (I think that's how it works)

Audisteer....XD

i will play with those settings later this winter once im done moving and get the LSD installed.

[chris_flies]

Yesterday, I placed an order for a set of Ohlins Road & Track coilovers!

Thanks to Barry from 3DM Motorsports for hooking me up with a great set of custom options at a pretty great price:
-1M spec valving (tighter low-speed damping + matched to spring rates)
-7" 60N/mm Ohlins brand front springs (shorter than standard spring for wheel/tire clearance)
-160N/mm Swift brand rear springs (solid bushings allow higher rates)
All shipped to my home for $2225.

I'll be documenting my initial impressions, initial installation, and final set-up in this thread. They should ship-out at the end of next week, and I cannot wait to install them!

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

My style 256’s needed 10mm spacer to clear the spokes, but diameter wise, the grey calipers clear with minimal room to spare. My SE16’s clear the calipers without changes.

Hey chris_flies , would you happen to know if these F30 calipers clear the 207M 17in wheels for our cars?

Also, would you mind giving the p/n for the rotors that you used? I was hoping to do this upgrade if the right deal comes.

Do you feel that the brake bias is disrupted by the upgrade?

Thanks for the help mate!

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

Hey chris_flies , would you happen to know if these F30 calipers clear the 207M 17in wheels for our cars?

Also, would you mind giving the p/n for the rotors that you used? I was hoping to do this upgrade if the right deal comes.

Do you feel that the brake bias is disrupted by the upgrade?

Thanks for the help mate!

They clear my standard 256 wheels clear with a 10mm spacer. It's really tight in there though. I used StopTech Sport Slotted rotors for the 2013 335i. Part numbers are 126.34141SR and 126.34141SL. They're about $150/rotor on Amazon.

Brake bias doesn't feel any different. I can still lock up all four wheels (if I didn't have ABS) on-demand, and stopping power is exactly the same as stock would be, since it's limited by tires. The only benefit are the looks (they look nice, but need to be powder coated), easier brake pad swaps, and greater thermal capacity (larger rotors).

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

They clear my standard 256 wheels clear with a 10mm spacer. It's really tight in there though. I used StopTech Sport Slotted rotors for the 2013 335i. Part numbers are 126.34141SR and 126.34141SL. They're about $150/rotor on Amazon.

Brake bias doesn't feel any different. I can still lock up all four wheels (if I didn't have ABS) on-demand, and stopping power is exactly the same as stock would be, since it's limited by tires. The only benefit are the looks (they look nice, but need to be powder coated), easier brake pad swaps, and greater thermal capacity (larger rotors).

Thanks chris_flies. What about brake pedal feel? I’ve read some people switch up to a different MC such as one from a 135. Is this required to get stock pedal feel? I like the way the stock pedal feel is w the OEM brakes and was thinking that this upgrade to multiple pistons from a single will/might affect this.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

Thanks chris_flies. What about brake pedal feel? I’ve read some people switch up to a different MC such as one from a 135. Is this required to get stock pedal feel? I like the way the stock pedal feel is w the OEM brakes and was thinking that this upgrade to multiple pistons from a single will/might affect this.

The pedal is a little longer, but the feel didn't change much. It still has that nice linear BMW quality to it.

[chris_flies]

Long overdue update to this thread:

-Installed Ohlins (wow this is long overdue)
-Installed AKG solid motor mounts (they're hateful and amazing at the same time)
-Completed M3 instrument cluster retrofit
-Replaced battery
-135i PE y-pipe and Corsa Performance axle-back being installed later this week
-Front strut mounts are bad
-Rear shock mounts are worn
-Ambient temp sensor has failed
-3.73 LSD blew. Twice. Being sad and punting around with open 3.23. I have a new appreciation for the importance of an LSD. Once was ring gear bolts not loc-tited, second was catastrophic leak of fluid
-Made it 1,300 miles to Texas for college

Now sitting at 195,800 miles.

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Long overdue update to this thread:

-Installed Ohlins (wow this is long overdue)


Now sitting at 195,800 miles.

Review please.....what were you on before?

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

Review please.....what were you on before?

I was on Koni Yellows and Eibach Pro-Kit springs.

Ride:
The Ohlins are WAYYY stiffer than the Koni's, but they ride so much better. The way the DFV behaves over large bumps is magical, and allows me to run fairly high spring rates on the street without much issue. The adjustability is fantastic. I sit around 20 clicks from full stiff on the street, then ramp it up to 1-4 clicks on the track. There's a huge change in feel with that adjustment; on the track it becomes brutally stiff in a race car way, but it still rides nicely somehow.

Handling:
The car is so much more crisp with the Ohlins. I didn't like the Koni's because they tended to allow the car to flop around in quick transitions, without doing much to stop it. The car was far more neutral, and just felt fantastic. I have a picture of the car with a front wheel in the air at VIR, something that's never happened before for me. Once I removed the front sway bar, all hell broke loose, and the thing's so much more fun to drive now. If you turn in sharply without carrying a little power, the back end will rotate just perfectly and you can use that rotation to blast through technical bits of track (or roast tires for spectators' enjoyment). It's so much more enjoyable and satisfying to drive now, I absolutely love it! Worth every single penny, in my opinion.

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I was on Koni Yellows and Eibach Pro-Kit springs.

Ride:
The Ohlins are WAYYY stiffer than the Koni's, but they ride so much better. The way the DFV behaves over large bumps is magical, and allows me to run fairly high spring rates on the street without much issue. The adjustability is fantastic. I sit around 20 clicks from full stiff on the street, then ramp it up to 1-4 clicks on the track. There's a huge change in feel with that adjustment; on the track it becomes brutally stiff in a race car way, but it still rides nicely somehow.

Handling:
The car is so much more crisp with the Ohlins. I didn't like the Koni's because they tended to allow the car to flop around in quick transitions, without doing much to stop it. The car was far more neutral, and just felt fantastic. I have a picture of the car with a front wheel in the air at VIR, something that's never happened before for me. Once I removed the front sway bar, all hell broke loose, and the thing's so much more fun to drive now. If you turn in sharply without carrying a little power, the back end will rotate just perfectly and you can use that rotation to blast through technical bits of track (or roast tires for spectators' enjoyment). It's so much more enjoyable and satisfying to drive now, I absolutely love it! Worth every single penny, in my opinion.

Would you recommend for a daily street car or is that over kill?

Was thinking of just throwing a set of Bilstein B8 on it with OEM sport springs....but it isn't THAT much more especially if you don't do blsteins and then rip it all out and do Ohlins....

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

Would you recommend for a daily street car or is that over kill?

Was thinking of just throwing a set of Bilstein B8 on it with OEM sport springs....but it isn't THAT much more especially if you don't do blsteins and then rip it all out and do Ohlins....

It's a little overkill, the way mine are set-up, for a purely street car, especially because they'll need more frequent rebuilds and more maintenance attention.

However, if you ever want to take your car to the track or do an autocross, you'll have a huge boost in capability and adjustability right off the bat.

If you stick with the standard Ohlins spring rates, they'd be positively sublime for daily duty either way.

[chris_flies]

Installed a Corsa axle-back and BMW Performance y-pipe, both from a 135i, last weekend.

My goodness, this car sounds 99% perfect.

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

installed a corsa axle-back and bmw performance y-pipe, both from a 135i, last weekend.

My goodness, this car sounds 99% perfect. :d

where r the vids

[chris_flies]

Photos of newfound oil cooler and the ever-gorgeous BMW Performance front bumper.

Broke 200,000 miles on my drive back to Texas for school. Did it about halfway through Alabama.

[Rmtt]

LOVE that front bumper!

[Suprgnat]

In case you're in the market...



https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Steerin...temCondition=4

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

In case you're in the market...



https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Steering-Wheel-custom-flat-bottom-M3-E90-E92-328I-330I-335I-135I-128I-Orange/223917959565?hash=item34228ce98d%3Ag%3AxQgAAOSw1p1 eTAcP&LH_ItemCondition=4

Oh. My. Lord. That is beautiful

[carscatscoffee15]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Attachment 2218867

Attachment 2218868

Attachment 2218869

Attachment 2218870

Photos of newfound oil cooler and the ever-gorgeous BMW Performance front bumper.

Broke 200,000 miles on my drive back to Texas for school. Did it about halfway through Alabama.

Hey Chris, awesome build and I'm in the 128i boat too.

I wanted to know a couple of things.. on the Performance Aero kit, do you need pressure seals left and right part numbers 51758046127 and 51758046128 or are those just for the M Sport. Coming from a base 128i LCI bumper (non M Sport).

Also for the fender liners I notice you have the F30 ones.. are these a direct fit or is some modding needed like the F30 brake plate? May you supply the part numbers for this or are they 51717260727/51717260728

When doing this bumper swap is a new belly pan needed or is this by choice?

Lastly, how did you get the ducting to work? Is it by routing the cooling ducts towards the fender liners?

I do appreciate any insight you're able to give!
-Roy

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by carscatscoffee15

Hey Chris, awesome build and I'm in the 128i boat too.

I wanted to know a couple of things.. on the Performance Aero kit, do you need pressure seals left and right part numbers 51758046127 and 51758046128 or are those just for the M Sport. Coming from a base 128i LCI bumper (non M Sport).

Also for the fender liners I notice you have the F30 ones.. are these a direct fit or is some modding needed like the F30 brake plate? May you supply the part numbers for this or are they 51717260727/51717260728

When doing this bumper swap is a new belly pan needed or is this by choice?

Lastly, how did you get the ducting to work? Is it by routing the cooling ducts towards the fender liners?

I do appreciate any inside you're able to give!
-Roy

Sorry my inbox was full, I just got that cleaned out.

You can use the pressure seals, but I left them off on my car. They always scraped on everything and bothered me a lot, so I neglected to replace them. It makes it look higher than it is in the front, but I can live with that. The pressure seals should be same for every model and package.

The rear/upper liner is stock 128i, and the front/lower is stock 135i (for the brake duct cutout).

I didn't get a new belly pan, though I think I'll be doing a "restoration" of mine and replacing the broken ones under the car and making sure they'll actually stay attached at high speed. They kinda sag right now because a few of the clip nuts ripped off the fibrous panels under the car. It works fine. You need the "MAS Adapter" P/N 51750432379 for it to work with the under tray.

The ducting is hard plastic, and there's only one way for them to go in. There are little mounting holes in the sandwich plates between the bumper bar and the frame rail, and pins to put into them on the ducts themselves. It's very self-explanatory once you've got everything apart, and have all the parts. Then you just bolt up the 135i fender liner and it fits right up with the hole cut into it.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I found this. OMG!

*Diabolical laughing ensues*

This is my favorite setup and best sounding imo. I've thought about this instead of my SuperSprint Resonator delete and Perf. exhaust but I can't bring myself to sell the performance exhaust.