Accusump install

[houtan]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

I have since relocated mine to the trunk. No particular reason other than for weight distribution.

Nice. Cahmon now, you have to give us pictures of the new setup and install!

[imported_mega]

Originally Posted by AndyW

My philosophy was get the biggest one you can get for your chosen location.

both those part numbers are 3 quart, one is longer the other is slightly thicker

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by imported_mega

both those part numbers are 3 quart, one is longer the other is slightly thicker

Doesn't change my advice. I did the 006.

[PcarDefector]

Originally Posted by AndyW

\You have to add an additional ~2.7 quarts to the system to compensate for the accumulator filling at cold start. But yes, you just use the car's built in oil level to check.

When I do oil changes, I activate the FOB so the oil in the accumulator vents to the sump. When I refill, I add two additional quarts (so about 8 quarts) above a standard refill. Then I start the car and verify the accusump has pressurized (about 80-100# on cold start). Then I check oil level via the car and adjust as necessary.

AndyW is there a way to prime the accusump so you don't get a dry start after an oil change?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by PcarDefector

AndyW is there a way to prime the accusump so you don't get a dry start after an oil change?

Not to my knowledge. And I don't think it is a completely dry start. Thing fills within several seconds.

[joeo]

Hi Andy - Did you install any sort of check valve to prevent reverse flow through the oil filter?
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...structions.pdf

Not 100% sure I understand the direction of oil flow on the N54 with your oil cooler configuration in relation to the filter.

-Joe

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by joeo

Hi Andy - Did you install any sort of check valve to prevent reverse flow through the oil filter?
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...structions.pdf

Not 100% sure I understand the direction of oil flow on the N54 with your oil cooler configuration in relation to the filter.

-Joe

I did not. It is installed on the return side of the OFH. Logged oil pressures indicate it is working. I thought about a check valve and bought one for the initial parallel install, but there simply wasn't enough room to fit it. Maybe I'll install it when I upgrade my oil coolers to 25 row later this month...

Here is my current setup. The left port on the OFH is the return side.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...5&postcount=93

[joeo]

Thank you Andy - good stuff as always.
Some are saying that the check valve (which would prevent back flow through the oil filter) is a significant restriction and shouldn't be used.
As to back flow through the filter, with how you have the Accusump installed would the thermostat prevent that?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by joeo

Thank you Andy - good stuff as always.
Some are saying that the check valve (which would prevent back flow through the oil filter) is a significant restriction and shouldn't be used.
As to back flow through the filter, with how you have the Accusump installed would the thermostat prevent that?

Embarrassingly, I actually don't know the internal flow path of the OFH besides which is in/out to the oil cooler. I don't know the correct order of Thermostat, Filter, Coolers, Engine. I assume Filter->Engine is the last two. Maybe a true tech can weigh in.

The check valve restriction thing is a good point, but I'd have to see data to support it.

[joeo]

Finished up and tested an installation of the Moroso accumulator. I'm using the 3 quart version and installed it in the cabin area on the roll bar.



I routed the 10AN hose through the front left fender well and then underneath and into the passenger side floor (rubber grommet not shown):







The hose runs down near the exhaust side of the turbochargers but protected by the factory heat shield:



I'm running parallel oil coolers and an oil pressure sensor which made for a somewhat complicated set of fittings:



Completed install:



I tested it on track this weekend at summit point. I took video of the accumulator's gauge around the 'problem' corner. It drops down to about 38psi, but engine oil pressure is showing around 25psi at the lowest. Top of the gauge is 80psi.

-Joe

[carguy138]

Originally Posted by AndyW

I did not. It is installed on the return side of the OFH. Logged oil pressures indicate it is working. I thought about a check valve and bought one for the initial parallel install, but there simply wasn't enough room to fit it. Maybe I'll install it when I upgrade my oil coolers to 25 row later this month...

Here is my current setup. The left port on the OFH is the return side.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...5&postcount=93

Would you mind sharing part numbers? I'm going to do this on my N55 335i. Don't have the mishimoto oil cooler, just the bmw oe one.

So far what I can gather

1. 24-006 3 Quart Accusump
2. 24-200 Accusump Brackets
3. 24-275X 55-60 PSI E.P.C. Pro Electric Valve Kit

Then what did you use for fittings and hose to tap into the thermostat return line? Also any idea what the thread size is?

Thanks!

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by carguy138

Would you mind sharing part numbers for everything? I'm going to do this on my N55 335i. Don't have the mishimoto oil cooler, just the bmw oe one.

So far what I can gather

- 24-275X Valve 55PSI
- 24-006 3 quart Accusump

-24-200 or 24-210 clamps?

Then what did you use for fittings and hose to tap into the thermostat return line?

Thanks!

Current setup (not parallel) doesn't go into the hose line. I used a SUM-220036B Tee and some additional end fittings when I was parallel.

- 24-275X Valve 55PSI
- 24-006 3 quart Accusump
-24-200 Clamps
- SUM-220051 for end of EPC
- Mishimoto MMBB-10ANBK fitting for thermostat housing
- SUM - 260086B Fitting (blue ones, but apparently they are no longer available)
- RUS- 634400 Hose

[carguy138]

Originally Posted by AndyW

Current setup (not parallel) doesn't go into the hose line. I used a SUM-220036B Tee and some additional end fittings when I was parallel.

- 24-275X Valve 55PSI
- 24-006 3 quart Accusump
-24-200 Clamps
- SUM-220051 for end of EPC
- Mishimoto MMBB-10ANBK fitting for thermostat housing
- SUM - 260086B Fitting (blue ones, but apparently they are no longer available)
- RUS- 634400 Hose

Awesome, thank you.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by joeo

Finished up and tested an installation of the Moroso accumulator. I'm using the 3 quart version and installed it in the cabin area on the roll bar.

I routed the 10AN hose through the front left fender well and then underneath and into the passenger side floor (rubber grommet not shown):

The hose runs down near the exhaust side of the turbochargers but protected by the factory heat shield:

I'm running parallel oil coolers and an oil pressure sensor which made for a somewhat complicated set of fittings:

Completed install:

I tested it on track this weekend at summit point. I took video of the accumulator's gauge around the 'problem' corner. It drops down to about 38psi, but engine oil pressure is showing around 25psi at the lowest. Top of the gauge is 80psi.


-Joe

What pre-charge psi did you use? You can bump up the recommended ~7psi to ~15psi to get a better discharge. total capacity and discharge time drops but it's not like you need oiling for 30seconds... you only needs it for split seconds.

[joeo]

Thanks bbnks2 - I set it to 9psi, but agree, I think I could use a faster discharge rate vs a longer discharge time.
15psi might be good to try.
What I find interesting is that the accumulator will stay cool unless you start taking turns and putting it to use. When I come in from a session and it's nice and hot, then I know it was being used!
Now I feel more confident about going to stickier rubber.

-Joe

[lforter]

how much does it all weight?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by lforter

how much does it all weight?

I'd estimate less than 10#.

[Fickert]

Originally Posted by carguy138

Awesome, thank you.

Carguy,

did you get this installed? Any pics? I am looking to install this kit into my f30 335xi w/ n55.

Curious on your install.

Op - you said you removed the Tee, can you explain more the routing of your hoses? Or a quick diagram?


EDIT: AndyW, I Found some info you mentioned before in another thread. Nevermind.

Thanks!

[Fickert]

Just picked up a 2L Accusump and the 35-40 PSI EPC. Also accompanying fittings most of what the OP suggested, but I also got a check valve.

I went back and forth a few times on deciding for the check valve. I know for a fact a check valve won't hurt anything, but in terms of discharge from the Accusump it makes sense why Canton suggests one.

That being said the F30 N55 engine bay is tight especially if I keep my AEM intake. The big thing in the way with installing it on the intake side is a large AC compressor hose. Hoping to find a goo way to manipulate that enough and fit it in. Will look at this hopefully over new years weekend. If not then it may be a while since this is my daily driver.

[carguy138]

Originally Posted by AndyW

I'd estimate less than 10#.

Hey I have everything ready to install and was wondering if you could give a quick idiot's guide recap of how to use the Accusump once it's hooked up.

Some considerations for me. I got the 55-60psi valve
-daily driving
-wife/family members drive it on occasion.

From what I gather you only need to "open" the sump with the electric valve after an oil change to re-fill the accusump and from there only turn it on while on track?

Also what happens during a cold start when oil pressure is 80-100psi? I assume even with the valve in the off position, the accusump still fills up? In this case wouldn't the tank hold the cold start oil pressure (80-100psi) and only discharge it once the valve is turned on. So for normal day to day driving the accusump would around 80-100 psi unless the valve is switched on?

Also any details on the remote FOB setup? I'd like to do the same as well.

Thanks

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by carguy138

Hey I have everything ready to install and was wondering if you could give a quick idiot's guide recap of how to use the Accusump once it's hooked up.

Some considerations for me. I got the 55-60psi valve
-daily driving
-wife/family members drive it on occasion.

From what I gather you only need to "open" the sump with the electric valve after an oil change to re-fill the accusump and from there only turn it on while on track?

Also what happens during a cold start when oil pressure is 80-100psi? I assume even with the valve in the off position, the accusump still fills up? In this case wouldn't the tank hold the cold start oil pressure (80-100psi) and only discharge it once the valve is turned on. So for normal day to day driving the accusump would around 80-100 psi unless the valve is switched on?

Also any details on the remote FOB setup? I'd like to do the same as well.

Thanks

Sure.

1. With the discharge valve not energized, the Accusump will always allow oil IN. So after an oil change, it will fill to 80-100# and hold about 2.7 qts. This is the default condition. As long as you don't power the valve, you can pretend it doesn't exist. So the switch mentioned below stays off day to day.

2. I have a two stage power setup like bbnks2 because the EPC setpoint is above idle oil pressure. He uses a switch in the cab, I use a remote fob for a solenoid valve. First, is a physical switch under the hood to supply 12V power to the solenoid from the battery connection in the engine bay. This ensures the valve doesn't stay on 100% at idle and vent the oil and more importantly, burn out the valve. That way I can power the system to a "ready" state for the track with the switch and then, right before going on track, activate the fob to enable the solenoid to power the EPC. You could probably forego the mechanical switch, but I wanted to avoid a parasitic electrical load when the system is not in use.

The fob and solenoid are this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Fickert]

EDIT: I was also a victim to the EPC being installed backwards! I thought I interpreted the crude images correctly, but I did not. This will not damage the car or anything, but more of a hassle and a mess to swap it around. I will contact Canton and see about getting these instructions updated as this is the third person I've read installing in backwards.

So I finally got around to getting my system installed last night and let the air side sit overnight at 60 psi. Will get it started and primed after breakfast.

So this was specific for the F30 335i owners, as I couldn't find anyone with it installed in their car.

First off, I recommend only getting the 2qt accusump if possible, otherwise you will not fit any others in the engine bay; it is TIGHT. I also installed the 35-40psi EPC kit in hopes it wouldn't trigger at idle but after inspecting the sensors it is stamped witt a "37" PSI rating and I am sure its accuracy is within a 1-2 PSI. My car's idle pressure can get down to just below 37 PSI so I have my doubts. My EPC choice was due to this being my daily driver, nothing more. If I think its necessary I can swap out pressure sensors to a 55-60PSI pretty easily after seeing the whole system.

I gave this opportunity to fab up an aluminum bracket and use my new tig, never done aluminum before, it was pretty awesome.

With the bracket in place, I was able to determine using the stock oil cooler, just 4 -10AN fittings / adapters and less than a foot of hose.

I wired up the EPC with the included switch and mounted it inside the small compartment next to the drivers side door in the dash to keep it clean and out of the way. This ended up being a very simple way to access with running wires through the firewall and drilling a hole in the dash. Can explain more if someone would like to know how.

So I have my EPC wired as so: 12V into the main power of the switch, then the "ON" position wired out to the EPC, then the EPC is grounded to the AC condensor. It seemed to be in a perfect location, so I reused the grounding terminal on it and strain relieved the wires.

I then wired an LED to be powered when the EPC is closed. This signals when the oil pressure is active. This was just mounted in the space for the steering column to keep it simple, but adds a nice ambient warning if engaged.

So in total I have my parts list below if anyone with an F30 wants to tackle it. Its tight but looks great once installed. I suggest you remove the strut bar right away and don't try to work around it like I did. Especially when precharging the air side to test for leaks.

Parts (All from Summit Racing)
- 1x CTR-24-273X
- 1x CTR-24-026
- 1x CTR-24-200
- 1x SUM-260086B
- 1x SUM-260090B
- 1x SUM-220047B
- 1x MIO-MMBB-10ANBK
- 1x RUS-634403
- 1x 12V LED Strip

and photos attached.Still need to cut the engine cover and fit it. But I have an oil catch can to install too.