Stripped oil drain plug bolt options

[Papa Popov]

When I went to do my first oil change on my car last year I discovered that the oil drain plug bolt was stripped. Bolt just kept spinning and would not come out. I took the car to a shop and they got the old bolt out and replaced it with "the next size up" and all was well.

Fast forward to a couple weeks ago and I'm doing my second oil change. Everything went well, minus the fact that I couldn't get the bolt to snug up, and I couldn't replace the crush washer since the one that came with the filter wouldn't fit the larger bolt. The bolt threaded in just fine, but keeps spinning once it bottoms out, resulting in some minor but not insignificant leaking.

Anyone have any ideas on how to get this damn thing to stop leaking oil? Short of re-threading the pan, which no shop around me knew what I was talking about when I asked to have a time-sert put in, or replacing the whole damn oil pan (which is now discontinued, p/n 11137553164), I'm at a loss on what to do. I've thought about trying to track down a new crush washer if I can figure out what size I need for the "next size up" bolt, draining the oil again, and replacing the bolt w/ a new washer and some purple or blue loctite, but I'm not overly confident that'll solve the problem.

Any advice on resolving this nightmare would be greatly appreciated.

[NorthernDancer]

Crush washers come in many different sizes. Next time you have the bolt out, take it to any parts store, even dealer and one of them should have something. I'm thinking nylon b/c of your situation. Now you may have to use 2 or 3 in order to get the drain bolt to tighten.
If this works for you-good.
Do know that your indy garage should easily be able to get a very good used oil pan. Hopefully you have/know of a very good BMW indy garage. If and when your pan starts to leak [many do] then this would be the time to change your oil pan. Your indy garage will not accept a used pan that is damaged in any way.
Good Luck

[cjb762]

If the bolt is spinning once it is all the way in, I don't think there is much you can do to stop the leaking.

I know you said you didn't want to re-thread the pan, but that's probably going to be the answer.

Here's what I would recommend:
1. Find a Stahlbus* oil drain valve that's threads are just a little bit bigger than the hole. **
2. Get a tap the size of the drain valve's threads.
3. Tap the hole on the oil pan to the right size with your new tap.
4. Install the drain valve and ever worry about changing a oil pan plug again!

*There are many brands that work as well as Stahlbus - I just like it the best.
**Hopefully the drain plug hole isn't so big that no drain valves will fit. If the hole has become too big, you may be able to fix it with a threaded insert, but you may have to replace the oil pan.

Stahlbus drain valves: https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drai...rdjacpopbmu4vr

edit: there's also a product called Eco-Plug that I have actually seen used before, and it does work.. I don't think it's the most elegant solution though: https://ecoplugsystem.com/magnetic-o...its-12mm-16mm/

[Almuliman]

Originally Posted by cjb762

1. Find a Stahlbus* oil drain valve [...]

*There are many brands that work as well as Stahlbus - I just like it the best.
[...]
Stahlbus drain valves: https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drai...rdjacpopbmu4vr

Been doing my own oil changes for years and literally never even thought of a valve <facepalm>. Going to be ordering one each of these for the 128i and our Volvo

Edit: Before ordering, I was doing some research and noticed some people mention the Stahlbus drains very slowly and, more worryingly, leaks slightly. Can anybody confirm or deny either?

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

Crush washers come in many different sizes. Next time you have the bolt out, take it to any parts store, even dealer and one of them should have something. I'm thinking nylon b/c of your situation. Now you may have to use 2 or 3 in order to get the drain bolt to tighten.
If this works for you-good.
Do know that your indy garage should easily be able to get a very good used oil pan. Hopefully you have/know of a very good BMW indy garage. If and when your pan starts to leak [many do] then this would be the time to change your oil pan. Your indy garage will not accept a used pan that is damaged in any way.
Good Luck

Hoping that this will do the trick. The bolt was snugged up just fine before I took it out. Feels like the thing threading in just fine and there'd definitely a point where it gets tighter, but once it passes that point its back to square 1.

Gonna swing by the parts store later and grab some crush washers. I'll try hot swapping the plug with a new washer to see if that helps.

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by cjb762

If the bolt is spinning once it is all the way in, I don't think there is much you can do to stop the leaking.

I know you said you didn't want to re-thread the pan, but that's probably going to be the answer.

Here's what I would recommend:
1. Find a Stahlbus* oil drain valve that's threads are just a little bit bigger than the hole. **
2. Get a tap the size of the drain valve's threads.
3. Tap the hole on the oil pan to the right size with your new tap.
4. Install the drain valve and ever worry about changing a oil pan plug again!

*There are many brands that work as well as Stahlbus - I just like it the best.
**Hopefully the drain plug hole isn't so big that no drain valves will fit. If the hole has become too big, you may be able to fix it with a threaded insert, but you may have to replace the oil pan.

Stahlbus drain valves: https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drai...rdjacpopbmu4vr

edit: there's also a product called Eco-Plug that I have actually seen used before, and it does work.. I don't think it's the most elegant solution though: https://ecoplugsystem.com/magnetic-o...its-12mm-16mm/

Meant to order a drain valve before this change but I just never got around to it unfortunately.

For the tap, should I go with the original M12x1.5 size, or the larger M14x1.5 (assuming that's the size that was put in) that replaced the stripped bolt?

[cjb762]

Originally Posted by Almuliman

Been doing my own oil changes for years and literally never even thought of a valve <facepalm>. Going to be ordering one each of these for the 128i and our Volvo

Edit: Before ordering, I was doing some research and noticed some people mention the Stahlbus drains very slowly and, more worryingly, leaks slightly. Can anybody confirm or deny either?

It definitely doesn't drain as quickly as an open 12mm hole, but it's not that bad. Just plug the hose into the valve, walk away for a few minutes, and when you come back it's done! Oil goes straight down the hose into whatever container you have too, so really no mess.

As for the leaking, I have had them on 3 vehicles with about 100k combined miles, and I haven't seen any leaking at all.


I know others on here use drain valves - including from other manufacturers - so hopefully some of them will pipe up too...

[cjb762]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

Meant to order a drain valve before this change but I just never got around to it unfortunately.

For the tap, should I go with the original M12x1.5 size, or the larger M14x1.5 (assuming that's the size that was put in) that replaced the stripped bolt?

It depends on what size the hole is now. You'll have to pull the bolt that is currently in it (if it isn't out already).

They have blocks out at most hardware stores that let you measure bolt sizes and thread pitches. Probably have them at auto stores too.

If your oil pan's threads are still ok, you don't have to tap anything out - so, for example, if your bolt is M14x1.5 (and fits well in the oil pan), you can just get a valve the same size. I would also suggest getting a thread seal like Hylomar Blue to give some extra insurance against leaks - especially if your threads are workable but not perfect. Also - make sure you don't over-tighten the valve (or drain plug). Aluminum threads on the pans can strip out pretty easily - so only torque to what the manual recommends.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It sounds like your threads might be jacked up again though - in which case you might need to go up to something like an M16 and tap it out to that size.

If you need any tap work done, and aren't absolutely 100% comfortable with it though, I would definitely take it to a mechanic. They might charge a couple hundred bucks, but if the oil pan gets messed up and has to be replaced, you're potentially looking at well over a thousand.

[Dru128m]

I don't recommend it, but in a pinch a friend of mine used the expanding rubber stopper that goes in his boat drain. It worked so well he forgot he had done it and half sank his boat on the next launch. We ended up just replacing the oil pan ourselves but he rode like that for months.

[jdt10768]

Originally Posted by Dru128m

I don't recommend it, but in a pinch a friend of mine used the expanding rubber stopper that goes in his boat drain. It worked so well he forgot he had done it and half sank his boat on the next launch. We ended up just replacing the oil pan ourselves but he rode like that for months.

That's hilarious! But scary if you lose all your oil
I like the valve install because you'll never have to remove the plug again

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

Crush washers come in many different sizes. Next time you have the bolt out, take it to any parts store, even dealer and one of them should have something. I'm thinking nylon b/c of your situation. Now you may have to use 2 or 3 in order to get the drain bolt to tighten.
If this works for you-good.
Do know that your indy garage should easily be able to get a very good used oil pan. Hopefully you have/know of a very good BMW indy garage. If and when your pan starts to leak [many do] then this would be the time to change your oil pan. Your indy garage will not accept a used pan that is damaged in any way.
Good Luck

Picked up a generic pack of M14 washers from Advance that had an OEM-like copper washer in it. Threw that on and the bolt snugged up nicely unlike with the old washer. Crossing my finger that'll stop the leak!

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

Picked up a generic pack of M14 washers from Advance that had an OEM-like copper washer in it. Threw that on and the bolt snugged up nicely unlike with the old washer. Crossing my finger that'll stop the leak!

Spoiler alert, it did not hold up. Still got a leak. I found out that the bolt itself threads in quite nicely without a crush washer on it though. Looks like the play is to get a Fumoto or Stahlbus valve and install it with some thread sealer as a (hopefully) permanent solution.