BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      04-12-2019, 10:53 AM   #1
suspenceful
Major
suspenceful's Avatar
543
Rep
1,082
Posts

Drives: 2008 135i, 2013 M-Sport X5 35i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: WI

iTrader: (9)

Has anyone ever fit a 28x10x17 on an E82 135i?

Just as the title states, I'm wondering if anyone has been able to cram a 28x10x17 Hoosier slick in the rear of a 1 series. If so, what where the wheel specs? Any modification required?

I want to run this tire, as many 3 series guys do, but fear it won't fit in the back of the E82 chassis.

-----------------

According to my calculations, here is what I found out.

The equivalent of a 28x10x17 is a 255/55/17: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-18157

I am currently running a 275/40/17 MT ET Street radial on a 17x8.5" ET50 wheel. It fit, but required a fender roll. I am lowered on Eibach Pro-Kit springs (~1.5" drop). I also have a 17x9.5" ET54 wheel I could try. I could also try swapping in the stock rear springs to raise it up.

275/40/17 --> 255/55/17 aka 28x10x17: https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.ph...8-5&offset2=50





Hypothetically, I don't know if I'd be able to fit a 255/55/17 tire. Much taller, but seemingly a bit more narrow?
__________________
🔧 Check out my 750HP 135i build: my1series.com
📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
🎬 Watch me on YouTube: youtube.com/jakespence135
🌟 Support me on Patreon: patreon.com/jake_spence
🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com

Last edited by suspenceful; 04-12-2019 at 12:19 PM.
Appreciate 0
      04-12-2019, 11:02 AM   #2
suspenceful
Major
suspenceful's Avatar
543
Rep
1,082
Posts

Drives: 2008 135i, 2013 M-Sport X5 35i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: WI

iTrader: (9)

Here are some photos of E92/E90 running this tire, just to give an idea of what I'm looking to do. I know the E82 chassis has different offsets.

E90 335i
17x8.5" ET40 OZ Alleggerita
28x10x17 Hoosier slick


E90 335i
17x9.5" ET35 APEX ARC-8
28x10x17 Hoosier slick


E92 335i
17x8.5" ET50 Style 68 (+12mm spacer = ET38)
28x10x17 Hoosier slick



E92 335i
17x8.5" ET40 Kosei K1
28x10x17 Hoosier slick



E90 335i
17x8.5" ET40 Kosei K1
28x10x17 Hoosier slick
18x4.5" Weld front runners
28x4.5x18 M&H Racemaster skinnies



E92 M3
17x10" APEX ARC-8 ET25
28x10x17 Hoosier slick
17x4.5" Weld front runners
27.5x5x17 Hoosier skinnies


__________________
🔧 Check out my 750HP 135i build: my1series.com
📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
🎬 Watch me on YouTube: youtube.com/jakespence135
🌟 Support me on Patreon: patreon.com/jake_spence
🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com

Last edited by suspenceful; 04-12-2019 at 11:18 AM.
Appreciate 0
      04-14-2019, 08:22 PM   #3
iminhell1
C2H5OH
iminhell1's Avatar
United_States
1000
Rep
1,388
Posts

Drives: 2010 SG 135i auto
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Darwin, MN

iTrader: (1)

TBH, look into better suspension first. Tire isn't your problem, weight transfer and dampening is.
__________________
FBO (RB EVO inlets, Phoenix Racing 7.5" race, CP-e relocate / Tial, 1320 DP's, Berk mids, Custom E tune, XHP Stg III)
11.480 @ 121, 3,600#
Appreciate 0
      04-17-2019, 09:56 AM   #4
tisdrew
Private First Class
47
Rep
166
Posts

Drives: 2009 335i
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, FL

iTrader: (0)

I could have sworn I've seen e82s run big slicks but can't seem to find evidence to support that.

This was the only thing I could find and it didn't have that meaty sidewall -- 275/40 which is what you've already done.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...&postcount=327

Having seen what 26" does to the rake of e92s, you're definitely going to need to raise the rear regardless.

I believe the softness and height of the oe springs will be beneficial for the actual squat.
__________________
"Wheels and exhaust aren't a build"
Appreciate 0
      04-19-2019, 11:25 AM   #5
suspenceful
Major
suspenceful's Avatar
543
Rep
1,082
Posts

Drives: 2008 135i, 2013 M-Sport X5 35i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: WI

iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
TBH, look into better suspension first. Tire isn't your problem, weight transfer and dampening is.
Good point, I'm fairly budget oriented since it's not a dedicated drag car. But I'm going to swap in a set of stock rear suspension instead of the stiff lowering springs.
__________________
🔧 Check out my 750HP 135i build: my1series.com
📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
🎬 Watch me on YouTube: youtube.com/jakespence135
🌟 Support me on Patreon: patreon.com/jake_spence
🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com
Appreciate 0
      04-19-2019, 11:26 AM   #6
suspenceful
Major
suspenceful's Avatar
543
Rep
1,082
Posts

Drives: 2008 135i, 2013 M-Sport X5 35i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: WI

iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tisdrew View Post
I could have sworn I've seen e82s run big slicks but can't seem to find evidence to support that.

This was the only thing I could find and it didn't have that meaty sidewall -- 275/40 which is what you've already done.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...&postcount=327

Having seen what 26" does to the rake of e92s, you're definitely going to need to raise the rear regardless.

I believe the softness and height of the oe springs will be beneficial for the actual squat.
Bingo. I think a 28" tire is almost too much for these cars. I did pick up a set of stock rear suspension to help!
__________________
🔧 Check out my 750HP 135i build: my1series.com
📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
🎬 Watch me on YouTube: youtube.com/jakespence135
🌟 Support me on Patreon: patreon.com/jake_spence
🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com
Appreciate 0
      04-19-2019, 02:32 PM   #7
tisdrew
Private First Class
47
Rep
166
Posts

Drives: 2009 335i
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, FL

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful View Post
Bingo. I think a 28" tire is almost too much for these cars. I did pick up a set of stock rear suspension to help!
Wide body it?
__________________
"Wheels and exhaust aren't a build"
Appreciate 0
      04-20-2019, 06:59 PM   #8
iminhell1
C2H5OH
iminhell1's Avatar
United_States
1000
Rep
1,388
Posts

Drives: 2010 SG 135i auto
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Darwin, MN

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful View Post
Good point, I'm fairly budget oriented since it's not a dedicated drag car. But I'm going to swap in a set of stock rear suspension instead of the stiff lowering springs.


FWIW, I've cut same 60's on stock M Sport and Eiback Pro/Koni FSD. Same tire.
Added MFactory Diff, same 60's, but more consistent.

Pulling the front sway did seem to be my best times though. Let the front lift and rear dig more.
The rear bar does virtually nothing. Don't worry about it.

I'm hoping once my solid subframe bushings and dif bushing are in I'll do a smidge better. With a stickier tire too RS-RR's (I'm limited to 200TW and higher).
__________________
FBO (RB EVO inlets, Phoenix Racing 7.5" race, CP-e relocate / Tial, 1320 DP's, Berk mids, Custom E tune, XHP Stg III)
11.480 @ 121, 3,600#
Appreciate 0
      04-22-2019, 12:41 PM   #9
suspenceful
Major
suspenceful's Avatar
543
Rep
1,082
Posts

Drives: 2008 135i, 2013 M-Sport X5 35i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: WI

iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
FWIW, I've cut same 60's on stock M Sport and Eiback Pro/Koni FSD. Same tire.
Added MFactory Diff, same 60's, but more consistent.

Pulling the front sway did seem to be my best times though. Let the front lift and rear dig more.
The rear bar does virtually nothing. Don't worry about it.

I'm hoping once my solid subframe bushings and dif bushing are in I'll do a smidge better. With a stickier tire too RS-RR's (I'm limited to 200TW and higher).
Really? I thought the stock springs would for sure help.

Good idea on the front sway bar, I'll have to try that at some point.

I want to do an E9X M3 rear subframe/diff swap in the future. I'll do solid/upgraded bushings all around at that point.
__________________
🔧 Check out my 750HP 135i build: my1series.com
📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
🎬 Watch me on YouTube: youtube.com/jakespence135
🌟 Support me on Patreon: patreon.com/jake_spence
🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com
Appreciate 0
      04-22-2019, 01:00 PM   #10
iminhell1
C2H5OH
iminhell1's Avatar
United_States
1000
Rep
1,388
Posts

Drives: 2010 SG 135i auto
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Darwin, MN

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful View Post
Really? I thought the stock springs would for sure help.

Good idea on the front sway bar, I'll have to try that at some point.

I want to do an E9X M3 rear subframe/diff swap in the future. I'll do solid/upgraded bushings all around at that point.
It seems it's more to do with front lift than rear squat.

The MFactory diff was just easy. Didn't need to dick with finding a CV that fit or playing with swapping the rear half of the drive shaft. Plus I don't have to play with preload and engagement.
Plus if you break a M3 axle you're looking at $700 for a new one; vs $170 for a 135 axle (off brand).
__________________
FBO (RB EVO inlets, Phoenix Racing 7.5" race, CP-e relocate / Tial, 1320 DP's, Berk mids, Custom E tune, XHP Stg III)
11.480 @ 121, 3,600#
Appreciate 0
      04-22-2019, 01:19 PM   #11
suspenceful
Major
suspenceful's Avatar
543
Rep
1,082
Posts

Drives: 2008 135i, 2013 M-Sport X5 35i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: WI

iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
It seems it's more to do with front lift than rear squat.

The MFactory diff was just easy. Didn't need to dick with finding a CV that fit or playing with swapping the rear half of the drive shaft. Plus I don't have to play with preload and engagement.
Plus if you break a M3 axle you're looking at $700 for a new one; vs $170 for a 135 axle (off brand).
No doubt the MFactory pumpkin would be easier to install. But I've already snapped two axles, so I'd also have to upgrade the axles as well. The price of the MFactory LSD + upgraded axles is more expensive than the whole M3 rear end swap.

M3 axles are much beefier and I don't think they're easy to break. Plus the input shaft on the M3 diff is much stronger.
__________________
🔧 Check out my 750HP 135i build: my1series.com
📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
🎬 Watch me on YouTube: youtube.com/jakespence135
🌟 Support me on Patreon: patreon.com/jake_spence
🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com
Appreciate 1
iminhell1999.50

Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:10 PM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST