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06-23-2013, 09:55 AM | #45 | |
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I have a bridge in Brooklyn for sale if you are interested. But maybe you'll just swear at me for asking. Grow up.
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06-23-2013, 11:01 AM | #46 | |
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You said once before you wouldn't waste any more time on this. Do you promise this time? |
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06-23-2013, 12:29 PM | #47 |
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Lol, why did this thread have to go on for 3 pages? It should have been OP -> Proof of BS -> /thread
The PB works, it really does. The wiring it's plugged into is ONLY capable of transmitting a signal determining throttle input. The PB intercepts this signal and increases it before passing it onto the ECU. It does this and nothing else since there is no "path" to affect any other ECU parameter directly via that wiring. There is no need to own or use one of these to understand that it reduces physical pedal travel required for the same throttle input. If you have a lazy throttle foot and want to piss money away on what amounts to a "right foot aid" then by all means go ahead, but let's not claim it's doing anything more than that |
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07-08-2013, 09:16 AM | #48 |
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I simply have mine set to the point where the throttle feels alot like a drive by cable system. Yes makes the throttle seem more sensitive due to the "increased signal" transmitted to the ECU via the PB.
I think that a drive-by-cable pedal feel is alot more responsive and direct compared to the stock drive by wire cars. This cannot be solved by your right foot, unfortunately. Its exactly like "Sport Buttons" some cars have stock, if it was so easy to fix with your right foot, then why do most sports cars have this option? BECAUSE IT CANT BE SOLVED BY YOUR RIGHT FOOT! |
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07-08-2013, 09:40 AM | #49 | |
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Now the sport buttons that increase engine performance by allowing more boost for a small amount of time are a completely different story. |
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07-08-2013, 09:46 AM | #50 | |
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07-08-2013, 10:25 AM | #51 |
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Sport buttons are not the same. For instance, on the WRX STI, the lowest setting actually reduces boost at full throttle (only Sport and Sportsharp are "full boost"). No pedal box is increasing or decreasing boost at full throttle. That setting actually changes the boost control (there are literally multiple wastegate duty maps built into the ECU that switch over when you change the setting). The Pedalbox does not do this because it can't!
And as others have pointed out, a pedal box isn't changing shift points for AT/DCT transmissions, at least not any more than pushing the throttle down a bit more would affect them. Nice try, but again, no. A pedal box is not the same as what the settings in the car are doing. A sport control built into the car could COMPLETELY remap the ECU when you flip those switches. A Pedalbox cannot! Why is this so difficult to understand? Why do people who do not have basic understanding of electronics continue to chime in ignorantly on this subject?
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07-08-2013, 03:30 PM | #52 |
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but im not talking about remapping the ECU and adding power or whatever you guys think Im on about. I never said the PB makes your car faster, or adds power. I did way that the engine responds better, and is much more enjoyable to drive when the engine responds to your foot actions instantly.
There are cars with no turbo and who are manual that have a sport button that claim to sharpen the throttle and do a couple other things (exhaust baffles, fiddle with suspension settings, add power, etc.) And they do sharpen the throttle and make the throttle more responsive (That was my point with the Sport button). It amplifies the throttle signal, point blank. I get that, I also understand that. However, what people seem to have issues understanding that "Their right food can fix" cannot make the throttle sharper in terms of throttle response. |
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07-08-2013, 07:48 PM | #53 | |
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07-09-2013, 11:04 AM | #54 | |||
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At least that is two steps forward and only one step back.
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07-09-2013, 11:55 AM | #55 |
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The thing is a joke & waste of money. Last thing a 135/335 needs is faster tip-in (which you can dial in with a JB 4) with stock tires.
Its all about "feel" not measurable performance on a Vbox or track.
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07-11-2013, 03:20 PM | #57 |
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07-13-2013, 03:21 PM | #58 |
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While going for a drive yesterday I made an observation that I feel is relevant to the topic. I'm not trying to add fuel to the fire here, I'm just trying to add something relevant to the discussion for those who want to actually discuss it.
I recently installed a P3 gage and it has a function to display throttle plate position. Quoted from the P3 website: "Throttle: Actual throttle plate position. Use this mode to see how your car changes the actual drive by wire throttle blade in relation to what your foot tells it to do." At a sustained cruise of about 40mph (foot just barely resting on pedal enough to sustain speed) the display will show about 23% throttle. When I add a quick application of about 10% ACTUAL pedal travel the throttle plate initially climbs for about a half second and then briefly opens all the way to 100% before dropping back down to about 25%. Sometimes I can get the throttle to open to 100% faster by depressing the pedal faster or further (but still not close to all the way down). The opening of the throttle plate to 100% directly correlates to the surge you feel shortly after bumping up the throttle. I always thought of that half second delay as turbo lag but it appears at least some of it is software controlling the throttle. I'm not going to pretend I completely know what the computer is doing with the signal but I think this shows that it is more complicated than X throttle position=X % of throttle. Throttle position, rate of change, RPM, speed and probably a few other factors affect how the DME conditions, dampens, and applies the signal coming from the pedal. Perhaps the pedal box is taking advantage of this and keeps the signal in a range that the DME interprets as a "more responsive" mode. Car is a 2011 135i N55 DCT NO pedal box COBB AP
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07-13-2013, 03:54 PM | #59 |
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The accelerator pedal (gas pedal) absolutely only tells the factory ECU what load you want. How much the actual throttle plate opens is a closed loop control (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feedback). If you push the pedal down, the actual throttle plate may temporarily open more than the final value it settles upon. I.e. if you go from 10% to 50% pedal position instantly then hold at 50%, actual throttle position may jump from 10% to 70% quickly, then decline back to about 50% once the load target approaches.
It's important to realize this is absolutely aside from what a pedal box does. The pedal box does not alter the closed loop control settings, tables, or logic inside the ECU. Swadeness, it would be infinitely more interesting and information to post a log file. No one can really draw any conclusions from what you write, and I think your post only further muddles the conversation. Here's another interesting thought experiment. If you were given two log files from a car, but one was with the pedalbox, could you tell the difference? I tend to think not definitively. One might have more average accelerator and throttle usage (and possibly more brake usage), but is that just because someone was pushing the pedal further, or due to a pedal box like device? The point here being due to the nature of the device you probably not tell... Thus just learning to press the pedal down farther to go faster (earth-shattering idea, I know) would yield the same behavior from the car. It ends up boiling down to the psychology of the driver, not the pedal box. I wonder how long after someone installs a pedalbox, notices the car is "faster," but then over time has to learn to not press the gas down as far so they aren't smoking tires/speeding/wearing brakes and tires, eventually negating the effect altogether.
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07-13-2013, 10:36 PM | #60 | |
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Anyone really want to spend $300 for a placebo when $500 can by a lot of WHP? Pedal = Red & Throttle = Mustard at top of the chart.
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07-14-2013, 10:40 AM | #62 | |
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Now if you'll excuse me I'm battling some morons in another thread who think that torque "under the curve" matters. BMW. The Ultimate Measurement Machine. |
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07-14-2013, 10:46 AM | #63 |
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Actually this turn of the thread is quite interesting. I / we already understand the Pedalbox, and it's a waste of time hashing it out any further. But in a past job I put PLC controllers onto engine dynos and set up some throttle controllers, so getting into the throttle control by the ECU is, IMO, very interesting. Seems clear that at least a few others are interested as well.
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07-14-2013, 10:52 AM | #64 | |
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P.S. Torque under the curve is very important. Peak torque is irrelevant if you dont have average torque to back it up. |
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07-14-2013, 12:18 PM | #65 | |||
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Nobody (that I've seen anyway) who buys a flat bottomed steering wheel, pedals or short shifters attributes any magical properties to it. Also, nobody is delusional as to what it does. Look at "tracer bullet"s post in this thread that I quoted. There is nothing wrong people who buy the pedal box (well, most of them ). If you know what it does and it's what you want it to do, by all means, go ahead. But when you want to tell us that "revs do indeed build faster - absolutely no queston about it.", that's just complete and utter bullshit. I have no clue why you keep trying to defend that or deflect from it. Quote:
You still don't understand the difference... A positive review is always appreciated - especially when it's factually accurate Quote:
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07-14-2013, 12:36 PM | #66 |
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Just some quick points. I have used a clutch pedal stop since 1960 on drag cars & it is effective. I was one of the last people effectively running a 4MT in the bracket races at Englishtown well into the late 1980's. It materially cut down the sequence time in making a shift. Made my own parts but have no problem with someone buying one.
The other thing is on the 7DCT I have a home made throttle pedal stop to keep from going into auto kick down mode at WOT. Lots of little things can be useful & are easy to make or buy.
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