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      02-25-2022, 06:43 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
Any chance it all it used to have an alarm or anything else that would immobilize it?

I'm curious that - well it doesn't try to start, but - maybe that single click means something is being attempted? Might help rule some stuff out or at least rank the possibilities.

Starter relay?
True, doesn't hurt to check. I am actually going to try and check the relay and fuses related to the cas as well. I'll add starter relay to that mix as well.
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      02-26-2022, 09:14 AM   #68
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Have you been able to check codes with Carly or BimmerLink or similar? My car doesn’t have any CEL on the dash but has had consistent stored codes.

I would consider replacing both ground cables if they’re original. It’s a very well known failure and it’ll need to be done eventually. I don’t like throwing parts at problems but for $70 now you can eliminate that from your diagnosis. Consider it preventative maintenance.
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      02-26-2022, 11:22 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
Have you been able to check codes with Carly or BimmerLink or similar? My car doesn’t have any CEL on the dash but has had consistent stored codes.

I would consider replacing both ground cables if they’re original. It’s a very well known failure and it’ll need to be done eventually. I don’t like throwing parts at problems but for $70 now you can eliminate that from your diagnosis. Consider it preventative maintenance.
I did. The two I had were the a0c1: treiber_kL50L_KS from cas like you had, and 2ecc: generator, communication
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      02-26-2022, 02:54 PM   #70
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Alright new problem.

First test this morning was looking at fuse 4 and the cas relay. After 10 minutes of driving the ray was warm but not hot. Many videos say it should be hot. Fuse 4 was ok

Then, tested from the cas, terminal 21 and 22 for the starter. All good as seen by the first video. (*DISREGARD*) However there was a loud thud near the end which resulted in no power to the ignition. Car will not react to key presses nor key in ignition.

Edit: fixed it. Cas plug was not in all the way. Car is fine

Ok so next step is ordering a new relay. It will get here some time tomorrow, I also ordered a multimeter so that I may be able to watch the alternator as we crank to see if there a major drop in voltage. I can't imagine a bad alternator would contribute to the no start issue but who knows at this point.
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Last edited by djacinto; 02-26-2022 at 04:08 PM..
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      02-26-2022, 03:50 PM   #71
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A cloned/repaired CAS from Precision ECU seems to have worked for me and fixed my issue. The car now starts perfectly every time, no clicking from the passenger footwell during starting or stopping the engine, no codes at this time. I'm planning to drive it a bunch this week and make sure it's fixed.

If you clear your codes, do the same ones come back? That 2ECC code is interesting and points towards a bad alternator I believe.
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      02-26-2022, 03:55 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
A cloned/repaired CAS from Precision ECU seems to have worked for me and fixed my issue. The car now starts perfectly every time, no clicking from the passenger footwell during starting or stopping the engine, no codes at this time. I'm planning to drive it a bunch this week and make sure it's fixed.

If you clear your codes, do the same ones come back? That 2ECC code is interesting and points towards a bad alternator I believe.
interesting. When the issue comes back, I.e car won't start, and my codes were cleared, yes I believe so. They do not come up when i clear, turn car off and start again.
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      02-26-2022, 04:41 PM   #73
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If I were you, I'd replace those suppression bands and clean up their chassis contact points before doing too much else. Even if they look mostly ok, they can still be corroded inside and cause some weird issues. Then clear the codes and see if they come back and go from there.

Doing some searching on the 2ECC code shows that can come up along with others for a failed IBS which is something to keep in mind.
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      02-26-2022, 04:49 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
If I were you, I'd replace those suppression bands and clean up their chassis contact points before doing too much else. Even if they look mostly ok, they can still be corroded inside and cause some weird issues. Then clear the codes and see if they come back and go from there.

Doing some searching on the 2ECC code shows that can come up along with others for a failed IBS which is something to keep in mind.
so you say those as in multiple? Part number 12427578869, the interference suppression band that hooks from the side of the chassis right next to the valve cover I know is one, and the ground cable underneath the engine from the driver mount to the engine, is this the other suppression band?
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      02-26-2022, 06:17 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djacinto View Post
so you say those as in multiple? Part number 12427578869, the interference suppression band that hooks from the side of the chassis right next to the valve cover I know is one, and the ground cable underneath the engine from the driver mount to the engine, is this the other suppression band?
Correct, there are two.

This one is right above the headers, runs from the shock tower over to the valve cover area.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nd-12427578869

This one is under the drivers feet, you’ll have to remove the belly pan to access it. Goes from the chassis to the drivers side engine mount.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...le-12427549393
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      02-26-2022, 06:19 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djacinto View Post
so you say those as in multiple? Part number 12427578869, the interference suppression band that hooks from the side of the chassis right next to the valve cover I know is one, and the ground cable underneath the engine from the driver mount to the engine, is this the other suppression band?
Correct, there are two.

This one is right above the headers, runs from the shock tower over to the valve cover area.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-interference-suppression-band-12427578869

This one is under the drivers feet, you’ll have to remove the belly pan to access it. Goes from the chassis to the drivers side engine mount.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-earth-cable-12427549393
Ah ok cool. Just making sure my naming was up to par.

I'm definitely thinking of replacing that ground cable underneath. I know there's one that attached to the driver side hood strut that you can use in a pinch so I will try replacing that, see if anything happens
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      02-27-2022, 06:57 PM   #77
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So no real update today...

Relays came in and I went to go check up on the gf's car after working on mine, and it started right up. Granted it was a little warmer today, (56 vs 30ish), but I'm just not sure how that would impact things right now, especially since I think i've narrowed it down between the cas and it's relay.

Doesn't look like it will be cold again for the next bit, so in the mean time I will be getting under the car to flush out the diff fluid and take a look at the ground cable underneath.

Thanks to everyone's help so far. I really appreciate it and hope we can get to the bottom of this before it strands us.
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      03-17-2022, 09:08 PM   #78
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Hey everyone,

weather was decent today so finally got around to flushing out the diff fluid. was a pretty quick job, got it done in about 30 min as I was faffing about.

Nothing to note really, just stinky fluid and a bit of a white shine in the fluid , but after running my fingers through the fluid, no textures were felt other than the fluid itself. No particles, no shiny bits, just bubbles and fluid, so i was glad.

Moving to the front, i wanted to address a leak i was having since my vcg replacement. I thought my friend and I did a great job double and triple checking everything, but it seems there was still a leak.

Unfortunately, the oil pan gasket is definitely leaking and it's fairly wet,
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. the transmission has a touch of oil on one of it's bolts as well.

As for the valve cover, it seemed the back part on the passenger side, the hardest to torque down, was leaking. there was significant gloss around the back two bolts and under the secondary air pump.

After taking everything necessary to access the bolts, i go around and check torque on all the bolts and lo and behold, bolt 4 on the left side had backed out. scared the hell out of me, but i torqued it down and did an inside out pattern till i got all but the one bolt under the breather hose and the 2nd air pump.

Continuing with the 2nd air pump, there is a decent bit of pooling along the bottom and in front of the pump. I think i may need to take the pump off to get access to the vcg bolt, but will need to order another gasket for that dang pump.

the final issue i came across was the mass air flow sensor. I wanted to check the air filter itself, and then i came across this beauty. what a fun surprise. the ikq near me prices air meters for about $58 including core charge, but rock auto has their cheapest one for 36. any thoughts there?
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      04-19-2022, 01:26 PM   #79
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Hello and happy Tuesday,

It's been a while so here's a quick update:

1. Installed a dash cam

Went with a red tiger f7n 2 channel. Still debating on swapping it for a viofo a129 plus. I ordered one for my f32 so I'll see how that goes.

2. Cleaned the oil pan area

I know the oil pan gasket is leaking but I needed to see where. Cleaned all up in there with brake cleaner and after about a week and a half I can see it coming from the usual areas on the passenger side. Not major, but will probably tackle this around the next oil change

3. Center console

Center console doesn't latch very securely, after going over a bump or even just tapping it, the latch lets go and flies up. Not the end of the world, but it is annoying. Looking to source a sensatec black one so I can get that done too

Other than that, car's been running great. Been keeping up to date on the new recall and we are a part of that so I'm keeping tabs on any weird smells that come from the engine (barring me working on it lol)

Hoping for a quick and simple solution to come fast since we're, and thanks for the great quote, a "rolling lawsuit on wheels"

Quick edit: ended up swapping the red tiger for VIOFO. I liked the feature set better and hardwiring kit was much more robust, especially with the adjustable voltage cut off. Footage looks super crispy and I hope it serves us well.
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      06-13-2022, 01:04 PM   #80
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What's up errybody,

Happy Monday, if there is such a thing

Nothing much has been happening with the car since my last update. We've received the letter regarding the pcv recall so I'm always looking out (or in this case smelling) for issues.

Couple things upcoming. Wanting to recharge the a/c since texas heat is absolutely BRUTAL.

We're also finally getting around to the oil pan gasket as it is leaking. Going to also do an oil analysis as the last owner did it once in 2019 and it was in great condition. Sticking with liqui moli 5w-30 with ceratec.

As for tips and tricks, I'm open to all suggestions. Have a few videos saved for how to do the job and going to probably do this July 4th weekend. Any parts I should order in anticipation? I'm still debating on engine mounts at the moment. I do not think the water pump has been replaced though I don't know if that's something I'm ready to tackle yet either.

Other than that, not much else. We've thoroughly enjoyed the car and it's a blast to drive around some back roads. Holding out to end of summer when gas prices lower. Fingers crossed
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      06-13-2022, 01:39 PM   #81
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Never done oil pan gasket or charged the A/C. But the water pump isn't too bad really. There's a good thread around here linking a video with step by step instructions. At the end of the thread I put my own sequence up that I found easiest (what to attach and when). Finding that stupid 3rd / upper mounting bolt is the only thing actually hard to do. Everything else is fairly basic. Lots of steps, but fairly basic steps.

If you don't replace the t-stat (and to be honest, I don't think I've ever read about them failing), then the pump replacement gets even easier being closer and with fewer hoses to deal with.
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      06-27-2022, 06:02 AM   #82
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Congrats Bruv! Glad it worked out well for you.
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      06-28-2022, 06:48 PM   #83
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Alright so the day is quickly coming. We will begin the oil pan fix on either friday or saturday.

I have put together a step by step list of tools and instructions with a couple guides that I am following.

A couple questions:

what are and where can i easily find, the torque specs required for the subframe and other related fasteners? I know the oil pan bolts are 8nm +90 deg but am having an issue finding the subframe, crossbar, and engine mount torque specs.

related to that question, what else will need to be torqued down? in that list that i mentioned above, including the oil pan bolts, is there any thing else? I should also mention I am not removing suspension, simply lowering the subframe so that i do not need to replace bolts or add increasingly complex steps for myself and my girlfriend

thanks in advance!
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      06-29-2022, 05:48 AM   #84
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I think these two tables from the service manual have what you need for torques.
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      06-29-2022, 10:05 AM   #85
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Make sure you have an accurate low-range torque wrench. I bought a cute lil' Gedore 5-25 Nm torque wrench just for head work and the OPG.

If I were still in Austin, I might lend a hand to gain experience before doing my own.
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      06-29-2022, 04:04 PM   #86
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Make sure you have an accurate low-range torque wrench. I bought a cute lil' Gedore 5-25 Nm torque wrench just for head work and the OPG.

If I were still in Austin, I might lend a hand to gain experience before doing my own.
Lol well the thought is appreciated.

I did get a very low side torque wrench so glad im prepared. No snapping of bolts here.
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      07-03-2022, 10:34 PM   #87
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All right so about 10 hours in to our oil pan gas install on the last E 10 bolts on the back and guess what it snapped completely my fault didn't realize it I know it was gonna break but I just didn't stop because it didn't feel like it was right

Looks like I have to get a bolt extractor but it's that really annoying one at the top left any ideas on how to get that out or should I just take it to an Indy?


Lastly I didn't have a quarter drive to 3/8 Drive so I've decided to just go hand tight and I'm going to leave the splash shield off overnight once we do the oil filter if there are any leaks then I will tighten it more obviously moth more care but until then I will order a correct adapter
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      07-04-2022, 11:29 AM   #88
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13 hours in and we finished at 2 am lol

My body was battered and bruised from being on the ground so long, and the issues didn't really coned till the latter half when the pan was going back in

I know this job could have gone much faster but man is there a lot of moving parts.

Here are a couple things I noted:

1. Two people are almost necessity here. Its tough to keep track of all the tools and small adjustments made

2. When putting the oil pan on, its best to just suck it up and ratchet them all down after hand threading. Even on my last bolt, I managed to snap it because I thought it wasn't sitting right

3. Engine mounts go on frame first, then line it with the engine. This is because I thought I could be cheeky with putting the top nut on first but then i couldn't align the bottoms properly

4. The t30 torx that hold down the coolant pipe are a mess to deal with. If the subframe is too low, you'll be fighting the line wanting to pull up and putting unnecessary strain on it. Too high, and you won't be able to fit the ratchets in. Ny suggestion is do the back 3rd on first, then the front two from the top since theyre semi accessible with very long extensions

5. Make sure to have a 1/4 drive to 3/8's drive if your e sockets do not come in 1/4 drive. We had finished putting it all together when I realized I didn't have it. I ended up torquing then to 13 Nm, which was my next lowest setting on another torque wrench


Other than that, I suggest taking multiple breaks and stopping when frustrated. It will drain you faster
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