BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      02-28-2018, 10:24 PM   #177
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just now

My clock just reset for the second time.
I'm shopping now
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      03-01-2018, 09:17 AM   #178
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My 2008 will be 10 years old soon and its still on its original battery. Car sits in my garage for 5 months of the year on a Deltran battery maintainer. I don't want to expose the car to winter snow and salt. So time wise it's still 10 years old but usage wise, it's more like a 2011. Has only just under 55,000 miles.
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      03-01-2018, 11:35 AM   #179
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My '09 still has the original battery and has worked fine this winter even in subzero temperatures. I might replace it before next winter anyway.
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      03-01-2018, 12:37 PM   #180
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3/08 production, battery change in February, '18 with 65K. Went with Interstate.

Like others, when clock reset the second time, I knew it was time.

Never had it on battery tender, and it can sit idle for a couple of weeks at a time. Pretty satisfied with life. Hope Interstate lasts as long.
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      03-01-2018, 12:50 PM   #181
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my '08 still has the factory-installed battery @95k on the odometer. Sadly, it's recently shown early symptoms of failure.
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      02-07-2019, 11:40 AM   #182
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Got the car in June of 08 now has 138k miles on it. Only been garage kept for the past 4 years. For maybe a total of a year and a half the car intermittently sat while I was over seas. Never used a tender etc etc. It sat much of this summer as I was driving the M3 and also had a work truck. I Was told 3 years ago by BMW dealership that I needed a new battery ASAP. However, my clock did reset a few days ago when it was parked outside for an hour after the temps dropped to negative numbers here in Chicago.

That's why I have been looking on what to replace the battery with etc etc. This battery lasted 10 years, I am tempted to just buy another one from BMW and do the registration myself.
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      02-07-2019, 12:28 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawshank772 View Post
.....I am tempted to just buy another one from BMW and do the registration myself.

Over priced. Registration? If you buy equivalent it shouldn't be necessary.
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      02-07-2019, 12:48 PM   #184
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Per the DIY on e90post this is why you register it. Also the battery is 200 dollars from BMW. Not overpriced considering it lasted over 11 years and a Walmart battery is $120.

Q: I replaced my battery and it works just fine, why all the fuss?
A: Disregarding the need to register and code for a new battery may result in improper charging. Over time, improper charging may have detrimental effects on the lifespan of your cars battery and the operation of the vehicles electronics.

Q: Why do I need to register a new battery?
A: The short answer is that BMW designed the charging system with an algorithm that varies the rate of charge by the age and type of the battery installed. Registering a new battery resets the algorithm back to optimal charging voltage for the specified battery.

The long answer: "The negative battery cable has an electronic control unit on the battery end of it called an intelligent battery sensor (IBS). The IBS measures the state of battery charge and sends this information to the ECU. The ECU uses this information to control how much charging voltage is needed from the alternator to support vehicle electricity needs. A battery deteriorates normally over time and depending upon service demands and driving profile. The IBS reads this and the ECU tells the charging system to increase voltage and amperage output incrementally as the battery matures. Therefore, at battery replacement time, if you don't tell the ECU it has a new battery it will overcharge the new battery causing it to wear out faster.

The registration process takes place in the ECU, which is the main player in this system. Also, when the IBS sees that battery voltage is too low for normal vehicle operation it can start shutting down vehicle functions to conserve power while keeping the vehicle operational. This would be accompanied by a check control warning of excessive battery discharge.”
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      02-07-2019, 01:41 PM   #185
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it was 0° F when I got in my car this morning and it turned over much slower than usual. Clock is still fine, but me thinks it's time to buy Okeanos a new battery
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      02-07-2019, 04:22 PM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawshank772 View Post
....Disregarding the need to register and code for a new battery may result in improper charging. .....

I've read this same caveat with different emphasis for my BMWs and Mercedes. The "coding" only ensures battery type (flooded cell vs. AGM for example) and amperage. If what you are saying is that critical you would need to get it "coded" every time you charged a battery as well (trickle or fast). It is important to charge an AGM battery at a different rate than a flooded cell and it is also important to note amperage but like I said if you replace it with a like battery from any manufacturer it should be good to go. I'm also very skeptical about the age of the battery being that meaningful to the charging algorithm. Somebody driving mostly at night in a wet and severely cold/wet/snow environment may only get 3 years out of a battery where someone in a dry mild environment only driving during the day could easily get twice that. How does the ECU differentiate between the two? I think the dealers just want the $200 coding fee because it's easy money (that's what is charged in my neck of the woods). This is the internet so I could be wrong about all of this
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      02-08-2019, 08:53 AM   #187
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I think telling the car you replaced the battery is a good idea but I don't think it's as big a deal as some seem to think. I still am using the original battery in my 2009. No sign of trouble yet. That's pretty good life but it's hard to know how much of it is due to a better than average battery and how much is due to a better than average charging system. But in case it is the latter, letting it do it's thing seems worthwhile.

You'd have to make the battery last twice as long to justify a $200 coding fee, however. That doesn't seem like a safe bet. I have a cable and NCSExpert so I can code a new battery without additional cost. I haven't coded in over 5 years at this point so it will take me awhile to get the new computer set up but it seems like a worthwhile expenditure of time.

But my plan is to replace when the car shows signs of needing it and code it when I get around to it. If I use the car a few days, or few weeks, until I get around to it, I don't think the battery will hardly even know it.
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      02-08-2019, 11:48 AM   #188
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I only mentioned registering as I am getting the exact same battery from BMW so I will not need to code it. And I also have the software to code/register the battery so that's no cost. So, 200 bucks for the same battery that has lasted me 11 years in Chicago in a car that has only been garage kept for the past 4 years seems like a deal to me.
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      02-08-2019, 02:23 PM   #189
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Mine lasted 6 1/2 years but never failed to start the car. My car was showing strange info in the dash computer.. things started to not make sense.... etc. Dealer said my voltage was too low and needed a new bat. Dealer charged $417 for install and coding.
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      03-08-2019, 11:56 AM   #190
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Getting ready to do a second replacement on my '08. Sounds ridiculous, but the car sat on the lot in at a PA dealer for a full year prior to purchase, and the maintence log was in the glove box unmarked. The replacement was done at the end of the warranty period. The failure of that one is entirely my fault, as the car barely gets driven and I didn't have it on a tender, because I'm dumb. 6 years and 15K miles later it's toast.

If I'm reading this right, the battery would NOT need to registered if replaced with another OEM battery at the dealer? That basically halves the cost of replacing it if so. I have no doubt the dealer will quote me the same $480 or so they did the first time.

Clarification appreciated! Thanks all. 👍
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      03-13-2019, 07:34 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m_thompson View Post
My '09 still has the original battery and has worked fine this winter even in subzero temperatures. I might replace it before next winter anyway.
Another winter and the battery worked OK. This time when it was 6F out it set codes for the secondary air system and power management, so it is time to replace the battery.
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      03-17-2019, 06:33 AM   #192
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Wow... I started this post way back when. Interesting to see that generally speaking, the batteries in these cars last nearly twice as long as any other I've owned...

I also own an 09 vert (daughters) we bought used with 22k miles or so back in 2012. Soon thereafter in early 2013 the local dealership replaced the battery as it was showing "signs" clock reset etc. Not sure why or of its use prior, but I do think the top had been operated up/down quite a bit without the car running contributing to its early demise.

Fast forward to this year, car began showing signs again (roughly 50k miles later). I had my Indy replace. Upon doing so, they were able to see that the replacement battery was NEVER REISTERED to the car!

Per that shop, a good explanation as to why it "only" lasted 6 years...
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      03-19-2019, 02:45 PM   #193
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Changed mine in November. Not because it was bad. Because i got a coupon from Advance Auto and i got paranoid. It is now in my friends land rover that he wants to sell.
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      04-10-2019, 06:02 AM   #194
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Hey guys, I believe my 2008 135i is still on it's original battery. I live in Sydney though so no freezing temperatures.

It's been getting harder to get the car started of late.

Every now and then it won't kick over. Especially when the engine is hot.

Having said this, I never get the battery warning on the dash when it does this.

Is it time for a new battery? Or is it something more sinister?

What should the voltage be on a healthy battery?
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      04-10-2019, 10:14 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer_x View Post
Hey guys, I believe my 2008 135i is still on it's original battery....

You're overdue, and lucky



Quote:
Originally Posted by racer_x View Post
....What should the voltage be on a healthy battery?...

SOC, State of Charge, measured about 1/2 hour after ceasing all electrical usage including opening/closing door (only some milliamps now being drawn to save memories)


12.68V 100%
12.45V 75%
12.24V 50%
12.06V 25%
11.89V 0
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      04-18-2019, 07:41 AM   #196
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That is good data, mleskovar. That voltage information is also what the car looks at when deciding how/when to charge. When my car died on the side of the road due to the alternator, the AAA guy looked at the voltage and told me he didn't think it was the battery.

Since my last post on this thread I've learned of another related reason that BMWs are "special" with respect to battery charging. Our cars do not routinely fully charge our batteries!! BMW is seriously into saving the planet and uses the alternator to charge the battery as we deaccelerate. Sending the alternator the demand for the current to the battery increases the engine power to the alternator slowing the car a tiny amount. It is using kinetic energy to replace friction in the brakes. That kinetic energy is then stored in the battery for future use. But if the battery was fully charged, it would not be able to accept this additional charging when we slow down. Hopefully this makes some sense.

So due to this minor hybridization of our cars, it is more important for the car to know what sort of battery, and how old a battery, it is charging. Thinking it is an old one (like mine, still original) could more easily result in over charging since the car would do more normally and think it is still able to do the brake thing.

The only risk of not coding that I consider credible is over charging the battery. Replacing a battery every 5 years instead of every 10 years or so wouldn't justify in dollars what the dealer charges. But I still think it justifies a few minutes of my time.
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      04-20-2019, 05:09 PM   #197
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2011 with 76k still running just fine with original battery!
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      04-21-2019, 06:59 AM   #198
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2009 135i with 83K miles that's lived in New England it's whole life and still original battery. Driven in winter since 2011.
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