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07-24-2015, 04:38 PM | #23 |
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Car looks great man. What did you do to address the fender liners?
Also, 275 square, or 275 front, 285 rear?
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07-25-2015, 02:44 PM | #24 | |||
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rear fenders are stock, we only little bit cut inner edge to use 275 wheels. so yes, our 135 now has different track on front and rear. but it runs excellent on track, and drives on the street without any problems. and nothing about understeer! Quote:
we had bought them from 1m. but they don't want to work with 275 without improvements - we were heated them and rolled a lot, front and rear side, and even bend some little metal piece on the body, which locates under rear side of the liner. now after all of this, tyres doesn't rub at all. and yes, we have 275/35 r18 all around. |
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07-25-2015, 02:59 PM | #25 | |
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on daily use, it doesn't lasts very long and you'll need to change rod ends. |
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07-25-2015, 07:27 PM | #26 |
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dct installed.
so when swap was finished, i drove to make some test riding. for about 30km i've got fault codes few times. this problem was seen only when i drove in two legs (one on brake and one on gas), and tried to start acceleration immediately after braking. so then car lag for about a second or two, and gave a fault on dash. long story short, it looked like oil starvation. oil level was good, like manual recommends. but, i saw in ista, that on m3 gts, dct takes one liter more. transmission fully the same on both cars - so no different in oil volume to the level plug. they won this problem simple and easy - where level plug locates, they fits banjo, with end turned to the top. so, you need to top up oil like always, before it goes back, and then, you fit this banjo and top up additional liter thru the end. after that you'll get oil level higher that usual, and chances for getting oil starvation reduced. so, i needed to test this assumption, and i was jacking our 135 on one side and topped up this liter without any banjo tests after that shown that problem gone. |
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07-25-2015, 07:53 PM | #27 | |
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Thanks for the answer. Very cool build so far!
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07-27-2015, 11:26 AM | #30 | |
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Car looks awesome!! And I love all the work. |
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07-29-2015, 02:51 PM | #31 | ||
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metal piece - under rear side of the liner. car now have some track days. when it will return, i'll try to make some pics. |
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08-03-2015, 07:30 PM | #35 | |
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thanks guys!
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so, after oil starvation was fixed, i've drove to reflash our previous tune, which we made on at config earlier. but not so easy - after it was reflashed, i've drove to make some road tests and saw that clutches slips on all gears on 3k+ rpms and any noticable pushing on the gas. then i've spent about a week, asked our tuner about this problem with clutch slipping (all correct, i don't know what is it (c)), spoken with a lot of other people, who also make tunes for this engines. all came down to incorrect remap. one of my mates, who drives 335 on n54 and dct offer me to try map from his car. if his car drives okay, and our car has problem with tune, so on his remap our car must go correct. so we've tried to reflash his tune and miracle - dct drove without any clutch slipping! this is in whp, so it's little bit under 400 flywheel hp and 630nm of torque. running little ahead - when we tested on track later, after few laps clutch can slips slightly, when we push the gas hard from low rpms on 3-4 gear. so i think we need to correct our tune slightly on this 3-4k rpm range, where we have a lot of torque. also we need to try, to make our at shift paddles working with dct. ps flywheel works good - gearbox rattle only little, when oil goes too hot. on usual street driving you can hear some rattle only on idle and if you stay near the car and listening it closely. inside the car all works very quite. |
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08-03-2015, 08:52 PM | #36 |
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Car looks great. I'm thinking of doing the front end conversion soon. How aggressive is that wheel setup? Is it street able?
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08-04-2015, 10:14 PM | #39 |
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Awesome build. Can you please share more information on your seat set up? What seat rails? Do you think you gained any headroom?
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08-05-2015, 04:56 AM | #40 | |||
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if all done well, tyre will not rub at all. in the rest, car drives excellent even on public roads. Quote:
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about seat mountings. lowest part -custom cnc machined plates (aircraft aluminum). then adjustable one, OMP sliders. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motors...unner-kit-each they works really great, seat moves easily like on newest cars from factory. and then cheapest aluminum mounts http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product...roducts_id=339 which i had cut in height to fit better on lower fixing positions, and then paint them in semi-gloss black (it's most combined color with interior plastic). seats now fixed on second position from lowest one, cause on lowest i don't see road through the steering wheel (i'm 180cm height). and our drivers has a lot of room for driving in helmets. ps weight reduction - 33.5 kgs with not the lightest seats. minus oem seats with mountings oem harness subwoofers plus bucket seats all mountings and 6 point harness. Last edited by slonik; 08-05-2015 at 05:01 AM.. |
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08-05-2015, 06:26 AM | #41 | ||
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I had been pondering buying the 1M front rims for a nice 245-255 square. (Expensive but they do look the best) Do you think the front 1M wheel would fit in the stock 135i rear wheel well no rub? Front Wheels - 19x9" ET31 (25.4 LBS, 31mm offset) - BMW Part # 36-11-2-284-055
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08-05-2015, 06:50 AM | #42 | |
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front axle - et22 and 9.5 width, rear et58 and 9.5 width. on the front 5mm spacers, as i remember correct, to fit with st coilovers. i think it's the best parameters you can choose, cause all other configurations needs a lot more modifications or doesn't fit at all. tyres - hankook rs3, 275/35r18. we will try hankook z214 semi slick later. |
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