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05-16-2016, 04:04 PM | #155 |
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A magnet sticks (ferrous)
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2011 135i MSport 6MT AW/black, 72Kmiles, bone stock, moneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoney I LOVE THIS CAR
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05-18-2016, 04:58 AM | #156 | |
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2011 135i w/ DCT | ZSP Sport Pkg | PPK | Ohlins R
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06-21-2016, 09:51 PM | #157 |
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Hi folks,
Just did this over the weekend and it's as the majority of the opinions seemed to go here; not terribly difficult and about a 2 hr job from start to finish. A little scary when you lower the rear subframe on the diff jack and see the brake sensor wiring start to tense up, but that's just part of the fun. You can leave the cross brace bolts in when doing the rears to help with keeping the subframe aligned, but you'll have to take them out when doing the fronts. I did find that I needed to use a pry bar to separate the subframe slightly from the body when installing the front uppers, but once the fingers were in, it wasn't bad. Just barely enough grease included to coat both sides of all the inserts prior to insertion. I used 74 ft-lbs for the subframe bolts and 60 for the cross brace, but the latter felt like just a wee bit much too me. I used a very long punch to align one of the bracket bolt holes on each side before starting the bolt in the other and had no issues after getting the first started. It's obviously a good upgrade and I've not had a great amount of time to test it yet, but there is definitely a big improvement. Primarily in the lack of wiggle under heavy throttle application, powering through sweepers, and the car just feeling more stable and predictable under hard cornering. One very unexpected benefit that I haven't seen mentioned before (so maybe it's just me) is an improved 1-2 shift if you have a manual transmission. Ever since new this car has had a difficult and unpleasant 1-2 shift when accelerating briskly. It almost seemed like the trans didn't want to come out of first gear and I had to use more force than was comfortable to take it out of first prior to shifting to second. No grinding or anything of that nature, just that first gear almost didn't seem to want to give up its hold. Very annoying. I began experimenting with pushing in the clutch just slightly earlier, but there was too much muscle memory there from my old Porsches to make that a fruitful endeavor. If I accelerated very lightly, it wasn't an issue. I find that after doing the bushing inserts, the 1-2 upshift seems markedly improved. I can't readily explain why this would be the case unless the stock RSFB's were allowing some finite amount of torsional deflection in the drive train which needed to unwind before first gear could easily be disengaged. At any rate, that's my 2c, so make of it what you will. I'd rate it highly recommended, ianc
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06-22-2016, 07:37 PM | #159 |
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It's just bushing windup. Installing a diff Lockdown helps as well. As do tyranny mounts. Anything that reduces movement in the drivetrain.
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07-10-2016, 01:31 PM | #160 |
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Ordered along with wheel wax, so as the wheel wax is curing, the inserts might as well get done while waiting, right?! Here's to not needing to redo my manicure when all the parts arrive and are installed.
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08-15-2016, 09:38 AM | #161 |
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So I just installed the Whitline sub-frame bushings. I have to say, getting the rear bolts back in was WAY harder than I remember when taking them out.
I even pulled them back out several times to make sure I wasn't stripping something. But they looked fine. I lined them up and then went in about 10 turns freely by hand but once they get about half way in I really encountered some serious resistance. I pulled them back out and greased the threads and even so I had to use a piece of my jack handle for the last inch. They are all tight now. Anyone else have this issue? I know 100% the bushings and sub-frame are lined up right. The front mounts bolts went in easy and I tightened them down to about the last 1/2 in before I put the rears in.
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08-15-2016, 07:41 PM | #162 | |
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08-16-2016, 06:52 AM | #163 |
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That is good to hear, did they come out easy? I feel like mine did but honestly I don't remember. I drove the car for the first time today and the result is awesome. I will check everything in the next couple days to be sure it's still tight.
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08-16-2016, 02:18 PM | #165 |
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Yeah I know they are tight, I was just worried about them breaking during the last 1/4".
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08-16-2016, 07:31 PM | #166 |
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Yes, You know they are tight today... The recommendation is to check in 2 weeks to avoid a potentially horrendous outcome if they don't stay that way.
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09-02-2016, 11:25 PM | #167 |
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I just want to chime in and say on a my 2008 E90 with sport package, it's more involved than what's in the instructions.
1. I have the braces that connect to the chassis with 16mm bolts. 2. It is not possible to do this on an E90 335 without dropping the exhaust. The exhaust is bolted to the rear bushing mount. There is also not enough clearance to drop the subframe without removing the exhaust hangers at the very rear. I stopped because I didn't have an extra support for the exhaust. For my car its a ⅖ or ⅗ with my F8x Brembo retrofit including machining on the rears being a ⅘.
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09-02-2016, 11:42 PM | #168 | |
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09-06-2016, 02:00 PM | #169 | |
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A set of exhaust hangers is bolted to the rear subframe. The fronts have the support bolted to the side of the car under the cover. I got under the car and fiddled around but it wasn't obvious if I could do it without touching the exhaust. I did't feel like getting halfway through and getting stuck. I'm haveing camber plates installed in a week or so and I may just have the shop do it.
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09-06-2016, 02:13 PM | #170 |
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I had plenty of room.
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09-06-2016, 07:53 PM | #171 |
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128i w/ sport here.
Not sure if it was mentioned in the DIY (either the one on 1addicts or the sheet provided) but I don't remember it being. Ended up having to completely unbolt this xbrace type deal to get the front portion of the subframe bottom bushing inserts in. Real easy since the car was already on stands. |
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09-09-2016, 07:51 PM | #172 |
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I went by the shop today. Car goes in next Thursday.
They are doing the struts camber plates for 1.5 hours a side. For another 1.5 hours I'll just let them have the headache or the reinforcements.
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10-03-2016, 07:08 AM | #173 |
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Does anyone notice a humming noise above 40kmh after installing the inserts or KDT917 full bushings? It definitely was not there before with the stock bushings and i've not changed anything else.
The subframe bolts are reusable. The 16mm or etorx ones are not. Neither are the 18mm bolts connecting to the V brace. Subframe bolts: 108Nm V brace 18mm bolts: Use new bolts. 100Nm + 90 degrees 16mm/etorx bolts: Use new bolts. 47Nm (or 45 i cant remember) + 90 degrees. |
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10-03-2016, 07:12 AM | #174 |
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Also, the 'stretching' feeling you get when tightening the subframe bolts is more likely to be the bolts pulling the inserts into position or in the case of the KDT917, the bolts are compressing the bushing slightly against the large steel end plate. I noticed it only on the rear bushings since the end plates actually hold the two halves of the bushings together. Remember the huge gap between the plate and the bottom of the stock rear bushings? Stock bushings are one piece so dont rely on the end plate to prevent vertical movement.
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10-03-2016, 03:35 PM | #176 |
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I have the full bushings but the thickness of the lower portion is greater than the original parts, so the V brace and the two brackets to the body on the front will sit a little lower than before.
Bolts have been retorqued 3 times now. On the second time the required bolts were replaced including the four subframe ones which dont have to be replaced. |
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