N54 Engine Removal link anyone??

[Curtis135i]

Does anyone know of a link to a N54 engine removal/installation?
My 135i has a Rod bearing going out, which I caught early.. my mechanic
said it’s likely not spun yet..
Lots of shavings in oil filter.
114k miles on a 2008.
It’s sad.. but I’m hopeful and determined to get this fixed.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Curtis135i

Does anyone know of a link to a N54 engine removal/installation?
My 135i has a Rod bearing going out, which I caught early.. my mechanic
said itÂ’s likely not spun yet..
Lots of shavings in oil filter.
114k miles on a 2008.
ItÂ’s sad.. but IÂ’m hopeful and determined to get this fixed.

Good God! That's quite an issue!

I believe that it's relatively easy, especially with a lift. With the right tools, all you should have to do is disconnect the engine electronics and cooling, unbolt the strut towers, remove the driveshaft, and then you should be able to simply drop the front subframe with the engine still attached. The benefits of modular platforms...

AdamLZ did this on his E92 335i when he put a single turbo on it. Very cool car!

[asiflicious]

Grip it from both side and lift up as hard as you can

[chris_flies]

Here's the TIS on removing an N52:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...engine/GMcrsJF

Just go to change your vehicle and enter the last 7 of your VIN, very easy

[suspenceful]

I watched some of this guy's videos and it was helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPw...zaQXXrw/videos

You can see there are four videos with the same thumbnail. It's a four part series type of deal.

[MightyMouseTech]

Can't replace the rod bearings with the engine in the vehicle?

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Can't replace the rod bearings with the engine in the vehicle?

If this is your plan, you can drop the subframe, remove oil pan, then replace them while it's in the car. Would be a lot easier.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by suspenceful

If this is your plan, you can drop the subframe, remove oil pan, then replace them while it's in the car. Would be a lot easier.

A 1000X easier.

[Curtis135i]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

Grip it from both side and lift up as hard as you can

Hahaha. Yeah right.

[Curtis135i]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Here's the TIS on removing an N52:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...engine/GMcrsJF

Just go to change your vehicle and enter the last 7 of your VIN, very easy

Cool. I’ll look into that.
I have a version of INPA and the BMW software tools.
In some of the service/repair procedures in TIS, for instance:
E82/2008 135is Coupe N54/Document/repair instructions/engine/replacing all connecting rod bearing/... necessary preliminary tasks: Remove all pistons.

You have to complete other steps/tasks before the actually working on what you need to fix.. typical bmw from my experience.. move this to get to this.

[Curtis135i]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Can't replace the rod bearings with the engine in the vehicle?

Doubt it. But I’m not 100% sure.
TIS says you need to remove pistons first.. to put in new rod bearings.

To do it the right way you have to tear down the whole engine.

A buddy of mine also said (who has built and rebuilt many V8 dirt track cars) with all the bearing material flowing through the engine.. if salvageable, it’s best to tear down and inspect, then rebuild, head and block. I’m not an engine builder, but it makes sense to me.

I’d like to save my engine and not risk throwing a rod through the block..
Seen some pics on e90post with a thrown rod.. terrible, disasterous.

[Curtis135i]

Originally Posted by suspenceful

If this is your plan, you can drop the subframe, remove oil pan, then replace them while it's in the car. Would be a lot easier.

That would be nice.. you know anyone who has done that with success? Longevity?

I may consider..

I used my camera to look at the tops of the pistons through spark plug hole..
Cylinder 6 and 2 had a few spots where carbon was missing, towards the outer part, unsure if it’s caused by slapping the head.
I’m draining my oil overnight, going to put the camera up the oil drain plug and have a look tmrw.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Curtis135i

That would be nice.. you know anyone who has done that with success? Longevity?

I may consider..

I used my camera to look at the tops of the pistons through spark plug hole..
Cylinder 6 and 2 had a few spots where carbon was missing, towards the outer part, unsure if it's caused by slapping the head.
I'm draining my oil overnight, going to put the camera up the oil drain plug and have a look tmrw.

There is a plate in-between the oil pan and base plate (correct term?), FYI...

[Curtis135i]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

There is a plate in-between the oil pan and base plate (correct term?), FYI...

The spot you lift on Center from?

My tiny camera (ebay $10) didn’t work in the drain plug hole.. (works great for other areas though)
I decided today, thinking while at work.. all new bolts for and a new gasket for oil pan is about $40-44.. through ECS tuning or FCP euro.. (off brand but made in Germany..) that I’m going to drop the oil pan, and if it’s possible to get to the upper and lower rod bearings.. I’ll change each one.. one at a time..
thinking about it.. it would be 1000x easier... if the crank is not too scored/scared.. I’ve been told the knocking can/will return fairly soon after new bearings. I’ll research more and get an idea when I have more time this weekend.

[Curtis135i]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

A 1000X easier.

I will research more and hopefully try this.

[chris_flies]

You may just want to find an engine from a wrecked 135i. You can then build that motor before it goes into your car, swap yours out, and then rebuild your motor and sell it...

[Curtis135i]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

You may just want to find an engine from a wrecked 135i. You can then build that motor before it goes into your car, swap yours out, and then rebuild your motor and sell it...

Used engines are around 2-4K depending on mileage.
I would put a used engine in as is.. if it’s good then let it run..until it needs rebuilt.

[Mr Gasser]

Probably should remove the crank and have it checked, then replace all bottom end bearings, mains too...Hell just rebuild the engine...

[Curtis135i]

TIS shows a special tool just to remove oil pump.
Holds the sprocket in place after oil pump is out of the way (its right beneath cylinder 1) Windage tray, oil pick up tube and pump require new bolts as well. And at that point, I’m not confident I can replace New bearings accurately, as TIS shows the engine needs to be out with head off, along with a dozen or more special tools.
But if someone has changed all rod bearings accurately by just removing the oil pan and such.. I’d be happy to know.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Curtis135i

That would be nice.. you know anyone who has done that with success? Longevity?

I may consider..

I used my camera to look at the tops of the pistons through spark plug hole..
Cylinder 6 and 2 had a few spots where carbon was missing, towards the outer part, unsure if it’s caused by slapping the head.
I’m draining my oil overnight, going to put the camera up the oil drain plug and have a look tmrw.

This is exactly how the shops do the rod bearings on S54/S65 engines all the time.

Coated bearings, ARP studs, done.

Talk to a reputable indy shop if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.

[ilikebmxbikes]

Can't you replace the bearings from underneath ?

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes

Can't you replace the bearings from underneath ?

Yes, it's been mentioned multiple times in this thread.