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      08-31-2019, 11:21 AM   #67
tayls4wales
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Drives: bmw 135i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moveitsmikey View Post
That's a huge misconception and I believe complete total bullshit. I hate how people actually believe fluid can be lifetime which is actually 100k miles.

There is absolutely NOTHING special about bmw transmission fluid, it's only part synthetic to begin with. Regardless of any shop advising against it, if it's under 100k miles I'd say go for it.

Fluid just like engine oil breaks down over time and loses its viscosity. It can't 100% protect the transmission for eternity. Same with engine oil. All fluids have service life.

I'm doing mine based on personal experiences and being a stickler about maint. I'm at 71k miles and I'm sure it's original fluid as I have no documentation otherwise stating.

I suggest you find a different shop...
I had mine changed and it resolved a bunch of sensor issues, after many months of several garages not being able to resolve the issues
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      04-13-2020, 10:10 PM   #68
Schweini
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I did a complete DCT service myself a few weeks ago because the oil pan was leaking and no fluid is lifetime. The original oil pan installed on these cars tends to warp because of the heat they are exposed to. The original part number of the pan is discontinued at BMW and there is a new one which is supposed to solve this problem. My car wasnīt leaking from the mechatronic sleeve which would require lowering the gearbox since it sits on top. As I performed the service I noticed that the gasket from the mechatronic cover was also leaking a bit and one screw is corroded because the A/C water outlet drips exactly on top of it but I left that job for another time since the space is very tight and am not sure if I can get to the top screws without lowering the gearbox.

My experience was this:

I noticed that there was some sweating around the oil pan that has probably been there for a while. I had no problems shifting or any warning lights. My car has 46,000 km.
I grabbed as much information as I could from diverse internet sources regarding tools, parts fluids, etc.
I didn’t want to take any risks so I bought every part needed from BMW.
Oil Pan (BMW includes gasket, plug and magnet). Part number 28108070791

14 screws for the Oil pan (you can probably re use the original ones but I didnīt want to risk it, since they are not that expensive) Part number 28 10 7 842 386

Suction filter. Part number 28 10 7 842 828

Side Filter (BMW includes a new C clip to hold it in place and the cover) Part Number 28 10 7 842 840

Fill plug (you probably donīt need to change this) Part number 28 10 7 850 241

10 liters of Pentosin Ffl-4, this is the stuff BMW uses to fill the car from Factory (I ended up using about 8 liters, but I did spill a lot in the process). I bought this directly at Pentosin, I don’t know if this is an option in the US.

The tools I had to buy apart from what you should own such as ratchets, different size sockets, torx bits, etc. if you are a weekend mechanic like I am.

90 degree pliers (this will make your life much easier when it comes to removing and replacing the side filter)

Some sort of ATF filling tool. I bought a small air compressor and an ATF filling pump that Works with it. There are lots of ATF filling pumps on Amazon.

Allen wrench set. You will use the 8mm one to open the fill plug since itīs a tight space and a normal ratchet with a bit wonīt fit as good.

I highly recommend having a lift for the procedure since the car has to be level for filling the fluid and you will need the space underneath to maneuver. I guess you can do it with jack stands if you are not claustrophobic. I went to a shop and asked them if I could use one of theirs and since business was slow, they agreed for a small fee. Bear in mind that it is much better to work on a cold gearbox, this way you donīt have to worry about burning yourself with the exhaust pipe, fluid, screws or pretty much anything you touch in that area. Everything gets very hot pretty fast as you drive along. I left the car overnight and came to do the job next morning.

Last but not least, itīs important to have BMW diagnosis program called ISTA and a k+dcan cable. You can find this on numerous forums or ebay. Itīs not expensive and it makes all the difference between doing a proper job and one that might damage your gearbox. The “put in the same amount of fluid that came out” method is useless since you have to complete a sequence of steps indicated by ISTA during the last filling procedure and the gearbox temperature must be between 30 and 40 Celsius while doing so.

Sadly I didn’t take any video o photos because I had limited time to work.

I hope this helps a little to shed some light on the subject.
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