What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Head

Two things, taxes and TÜV.

Modifications are allowed, as long as it is registered on the car, a lot of people do not wish to pay €30-€200 per mod but that is illegal and causes issues down the road.

I just want to find someone, who can tune the software to match the 3 stage intake i wish to install, so far i can not find anyone locally.

How extensive is TÜV inspection?

MILVS are under the valve cover and are OE pieces (just modified) so they'd pass any visual inspection (if it ever gets that far), but software will pose an issue if they check that it's not original signed BMW code, again which I don't know if they'd do or have the ability.

Catless headers are certainly gonna be an issue lol.

Not sure what your exact needs are, but Hassmachine with Bimmerlabs might be able to help. The 128i tune I have uses files from a 130i

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by desertman123

How extensive is TÜV inspection?

MILVS are under the valve cover and are OE pieces (just modified) so they'd pass any visual inspection (if it ever gets that far), but software will pose an issue if they check that it's not original signed BMW code, again which I don't know if they'd do or have the ability.

Catless headers are certainly gonna be an issue lol.

Not sure what your exact needs are, but Hassmachine with Bimmerlabs might be able to help. The 128i tune I have uses files from a 130i

I think Supersprint makes headers with sport cats (shaped like catless, but they have a cat).

Poor cats. Nobody wants them Everyone wants the bark

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by desertman123

How extensive is TÜV inspection?

MILVS are under the valve cover and are OE pieces (just modified) so they'd pass any visual inspection (if it ever gets that far), but software will pose an issue if they check that it's not original signed BMW code, again which I don't know if they'd do or have the ability.

Catless headers are certainly gonna be an issue lol.

Not sure what your exact needs are, but Hassmachine with Bimmerlabs might be able to help. The 128i tune I have uses files from a 130i

Any single modification done to a vehicle that causes changes to a factory vehicle, would need to be submitted and approved by. However, there are some exception, such as fitting the M3 arms/bushings and sway bars since they are not aftermarket products and they come off a production car.

Confusingly the performance brakes require TÜV, despite them being basically a 135i system, BMW sells them as "performance aftermarket" parts, so they require registration. The performance exhaust is already "legal" and requires no TÜV, BMW has stamped their code on the muffler incase the police claim "it is too loud".

Catless exhaust is completely forbidden here, MILVS can get a pass as long as emissions are within specs, same for 3 stage intake. Problem is, it can be expensive, i paid €220 extra to register the software tune legally, however this means i can run any tune i wish, since it is simply stated "engine software change" in the vehicle registration. I paid another €70 for the KW V3 suspension (weird how this major component was cheaper than the software).

Wheel studs are considered here as "motorsports" and are not street legal, UNLESS the production car comes with them, and the list goes on.

From what i can see in the Germany 1 series forums, 80% of people run mods without registering, meaning if for any reason they get stopped, or if they have an incident on the Nordschleife, if the police are anal about inspection and find unregistered modifications, your insurance will not cover you (StVo rules). Ironically, no one runs street legal pads on track days, and the police never check the R90 approval, just the thickness.

It is weird over here, but you can do anything you wish to a car, as long as it is registered. That Team Schirmir GT4 E92 M3 that Apex purchased is technically a different car, yet every single mod done to it is TÜV approved and registered, id bet you that car was expensive as hell when compared to a similar non TÜV approved car.

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I think Supersprint makes headers with sport cats (shaped like catless, but they have a cat).

Poor cats. Nobody wants them Everyone wants the bark

If that exhaust is road legal in the USA, then most likely it can be TÜV approved here.

That is also why locally when one purchases aftermarket products, it comes with TÜV Teilegutachten or "part approval", here is an example from KW's document:

http://docs.kwsuspension.de/ga-KWGFw-20039_1046-10.pdf

I just checked their website, sadly it is labeled as "nur fur rennsport" or "only for racing" which does not make it road legal, it eliminates the CATs.

[NewDirection]

1) Did the CDV delete. Just...amazing. If you are still hesitating, do it. I am no longer insecure about my shifting prowess.

2) Installed the Dinan short shifter. There are cheaper kits available but I got mine 20% off from Amazon as it was open box. And install was not as difficult as other kits. Throws are reduced and I like the mechanical noise it makes as it goes into gear. It makes the stock shifter feel really sloppy by comparison. How is it not like this from the factory?

BUT

As other users have reported, it rattles like crazy in third gear above 2000RPM. Touching it makes the noise stop completely but it's still pretty annoying. I will drive it for a bit and see if it drives me nuts enough to go back to stock.

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by 10"

I took a photo of it.

Looks incredible! Man that valencia orange is kick ass.

[NewDirection]

Originally Posted by NewDirection

1)

2) Installed the Dinan short shifter.

As other users have reported, it rattles like crazy in third gear above 2000RPM. Touching it makes the noise stop completely but it's still pretty annoying. I will drive it for a bit and see if it drives me nuts enough to go back to stock.

Yup, this piece of s**t is coming off.

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by NewDirection

Yup, this piece of s**t is coming off.

Can you wrap some rubber around the bottom of the lever to damp the vibrations?

[Zombie_Head]

Oil changed + filter and cabin/microfilter.

Runs smooth, general check up, no leaks, no play, all bushings and bits look good.

Fingers crossed for Friday, really hope that tuner can bring some life in that N52 with a new tune. Otherwise i may consider a 135 instead (which i do not want to leave that lovely singing NA engine).

[NewDirection]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Can you wrap some rubber around the bottom of the lever to damp the vibrations?

Thank you for the response!

I thought about that but doesn't the smooth action of the lever depend on a smooth interface between the metal part of the lever that mates to the white plastic cup?

[crowtrobot]

Originally Posted by NewDirection

As other users have reported, it rattles like crazy in third gear above 2000RPM. Touching it makes the noise stop completely but it's still pretty annoying. I will drive it for a bit and see if it drives me nuts enough to go back to stock.

Is this an issue with every SSK, or just the Dinan one? I haven't heard of this before. Was considering the BMW version for my car...

[NewDirection]

Originally Posted by crowtrobot

Is this an issue with every SSK, or just the Dinan one? I haven't heard of this before. Was considering the BMW version for my car...

I haven't done a ton of research on other kits. The install cost/time for the other kits was prohibitive for me. That said, I haven't seen this criticism of other kits, only the Dinan.

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by NewDirection

Thank you for the response!

I thought about that but doesn't the smooth action of the lever depend on a smooth interface between the metal part of the lever that mates to the white plastic cup?

Not that low - just below the shift knob. Or wherever it fits to be honest.

Originally Posted by crowtrobot

Is this an issue with every SSK, or just the Dinan one? I haven't heard of this before. Was considering the BMW version for my car...

BMW Performance shift knob doesn't do anything weird on my end.

[NewDirection]

[QUOTE=desertman123;23713241]Not that low - just below the shift knob. Or wherever it fits to be honest.

Hey, this sounds promising. When you say just below the shift knob what do you mean? So there's the knob, which comes off. That leaves the lever, which then clicks into the white plastic bearing. What do you think might work?

[NewDirection]

Hold the presses. The rattle is not from the bearing but from the knob-lever interface. Should be an easy fix. will update soon.

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by crowtrobot

Is this an issue with every SSK, or just the Dinan one? I haven't heard of this before. Was considering the BMW version for my car...

I didn't get an SSK - just a short-throw Performance lever from the E60 5-series (mine's an N55.) Had to bend the lever - and that was fun, but no Rattle or additional NVH with that guy.
Love it and, like CDV Delete, I would never go back.

[________]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

I didn't get an SSK - just a short-throw Performance lever from the E60 5-series (mine's an N55.) Had to bend the lever - and that was fun, but no Rattle or additional NVH with that guy.
Love it and, like CDV Delete, I would never go back.

What is a short-throw performance lever???

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by OnerDriver

What is a short-throw performance lever???

Shortens the movement range of the shifter, and typically also neatens up play as well.

[________]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

Shortens the movement range of the shifter, and typically also neatens up play as well.

So a short-shift mechanism? Like the one from Dinan?

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by OnerDriver

So a short-shift mechanism? Like the one from Dinan?

Yeah

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by OnerDriver

What is a short-throw performance lever???

Lever from a BMWP SSK:
In my case, P/N 25117546373.

I don't call it a short shift lever, since it's actually longer - and sits ~ 1/2 inch taller - than stock. But the different fulcrum (ball at the bottom) point reduced throw roughly 2".

[varoadking]

I fixed the odd rattle in my 128i. It was the plastic diffuser in the overhead light...just needed to be pressed back into place...