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      08-12-2014, 05:47 AM   #23
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      08-12-2014, 07:32 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclaib7 View Post
Think I can shoehorn an M3 engine in there?
It actually fits pretty well as the 1er is E9x based.
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      08-12-2014, 08:03 AM   #25
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Usually the guys that wash the cars are not the techs. It wasn't the same guy that did the change that drove it over I bet.....

I wouldn't think that they wouldn't have realized that they forgot to put oil into the engine unless it started making some odd/bad noises. Damage was done, we know that much.....I just have a feeling it's worse than 400 yards....it idled for long enough...I guarantee it.
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      08-12-2014, 08:37 AM   #26
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OP is this Peabody BMW?

I am not trying to shame them, shit happens. They did my last oil change and everything was great. I just want to know so I can keep an eye out if it happens to be them.

FWIW if it was them I'd STILL go to them, since it is admirable that they are owning up to it immediately.

I bought my car there, and have my oil done there because it is close.
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      08-12-2014, 02:04 PM   #27
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Accept nothing less than a new engine or them buying back your car. Life was taken off of the entire engine from what they did including the bearings in the bottom end they say is ok. I would also push them to pay depreciation for this as well. Their repair will most likely show up on a future carfax and major engine work or replacement will ding resale value because it raises questions to uneducated buyers and scares them away.
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      08-12-2014, 04:31 PM   #28
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I have not rebuilt a BMW engine but I have a couple american cars. But I believe the main and rod bearings in BMWs are normal babbett bearings. Babbett is a lead based alloy and the bearings are cheap. The least I would expect is that all the rod and main bearings be replaced and I would want to see the crankshaft. It should be shiny. If it is hazed looking it needs polished and may need different size bearings. I would also want to see the pistons to see if there is any obvious damage but I doubt it. The cylinder walls are never lubricated great and probably continued to have a little oil on them. I doubt they are damaged and I believe that would apply to the rings too. The cylinder walls in our motors are aluminum, however. I would want to see that there was not deep scratches or gouges but if it looks OK and the clearance is OK, the bottom end may, indeed, be basically OK.

Another small thing to make sure is replaced is the seals on the ends of the crankshaft. They are cheap and running without lube could hurt them so I would want them replaced. Total materials cost for bearings and seals should be pretty small.

I would mainly be worried about things that are supposed to get pressurized oil. That is true of the main and rod bearings. Obviously they didn't get pressurized oil. As soon as that happens, they will start to overheat. Lead has a pretty low melting point. I suspect there is at least minor damage to the main and rod bearings and would be surprised if there is some lead wiped onto the crankshaft. If there is, it can be cleaned up.

In terms of new engine versus rebuild I don't know that I'd insist on a new engine. If the dealer is really willing to go through it throughly I don't think the engine and the end of the process will be worse than a new one. A lot of parts were clearly not damaged and it isn't hard to figure out which ones to be worried about (it's everything that gets pressurized oil when the engine is running). But I'd insist on an extended warranty, like 100K miles, for any damaged reasonably related to the dealerships mistake.

I don't know if you want it now but another thing they may be willing to concede is free maintenance for a longer period. Good Luck
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      08-12-2014, 06:21 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrom View Post
OP is this Peabody BMW?

I am not trying to shame them, shit happens. They did my last oil change and everything was great. I just want to know so I can keep an eye out if it happens to be them.

FWIW if it was them I'd STILL go to them, since it is admirable that they are owning up to it immediately.

I bought my car there, and have my oil done there because it is close.
PM me. I'd rather not say as they are handling this situation admirably thus far.

Thread update coming soon.
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      08-12-2014, 06:29 PM   #30
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Update:

I received calls from the sales manager and general manager today apologizing and reiterating their commitment to fixing this mistake. They are very concerned about their reputation and that is a good sign for any business.

So the resolution is that they have ordered a NEW N51 SULEV long block engine. He also called it a crate engine. I'm no mechanic but it sounds like this is the complete engine block, cylinder head, and pistons. They will reuse existing ancillary components like the alternator, manifold, etc........

Let me know if this is incorrect but it sounds like any items that could have even possibly been damaged by the lack of oil, will be replaced. Again let me know about any other components I should be asking about, like for example the "the seals on the ends of the crankshaft" from two posts up. Anything else?

The motor has been ordered from Germany and will be in the US by the end of August so I should have my car back around the first week in September. All of this begs a few questions as i'm in uncharted territory. See below:

1. Starting the BMW 1200 mile break in period all over again. Sigh. Oh well.

2. When this situation occurred, I did still have my Active Autowerke tune installed. Is there anything I should be concerned with with regard to this tune? Should I let the dealer know and should it be set back to stock before the new engine goes in?

3. When new vehicles come off the assembly line at the factory, I believe the engines are "run in" at the factory to seat, or start the process of seating the rings. I'm assuming this new engine will not have gone through that procedure. Is there anything my dealer or I need to do at first start up?

Sorry for the long post but there is a lot going on and it's all weird.
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      08-12-2014, 07:10 PM   #31
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@jclaib7 its nice to see that your dealer is stepping up and doing the right thing. A new engine will have been run in somewhat. But yea... you will need to adhere to the 1,200 mile break in procedure again. Do not exceed 110 mph or 4.500 rpms and take it easy on the engine. After 1,200 miles you can get more aggressive with the revs & load. I would have the oil and filter changed at 1,200 miles and maybe again at 2,500 miles.

I would not mention your sw tune. Hopefully they don't do a sw update and wipe it out.

Good Luck
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      08-12-2014, 07:24 PM   #32
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I'd be pretty thrilled if the dealership made a mistake and replaced my entire engine without needing lawsuits etc. Thats proper customer service and good old owning up to mistakes.
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      08-12-2014, 08:18 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrom View Post
I'd be pretty thrilled if the dealership made a mistake and replaced my entire engine without needing lawsuits etc. Thats proper customer service and good old owning up to mistakes.
Is a crate engine or long block engine indeed the entire engine for the most part?

Does anyone have a part number or schematic on this engine and what it would include?
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      08-12-2014, 08:25 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclaib7 View Post
Is a crate engine or long block engine indeed the entire engine for the most part?
The common definition includes everything that swims in oil. Block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and rings, valves, cams, cylinder head. The stuff it doesn't include don't swim in oil. Intake, exhaust, alternator, water pump, etc.

Sounds about right for what happened.
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      08-12-2014, 09:16 PM   #35
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Nice to see it worked out OP.

I'd give that dealer an A+ for service after deciding to replace the entire engine!
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      08-12-2014, 10:07 PM   #36
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Nice to see it worked out OP.

I'd give that dealer an A+ for service after deciding to replace the entire engine!
Thanks. Not at the finish line yet but headed in the right direction.

The service rep mentioned two years on the warranty for the new engine which I may have an issue with. It should reset back to 4 years/50,000 miles on the engine only. Thoughts?
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      08-12-2014, 10:08 PM   #37
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A tech at any dealership could have made this mistake really, and considering how well the dealership handled it, I'd have no reservations about continuing to service my car there. I bet the whole shop is going to give that tech shit for it lol and no one else there will make that mistake again for a long time.
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      08-12-2014, 10:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclaib7 View Post
Thanks. Not at the finish line yet but headed in the right direction.

The service rep mentioned two years on the warranty for the new engine which I may have an issue with. It should reset back to 4 years/50,000 miles on the engine only. Thoughts?
I'd think you should at the very least get whichever is longer, your original 4 year/50k or the 2 year.
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      08-12-2014, 10:11 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awns729 View Post
A tech at any dealership could have made this mistake really, and considering how well the dealership handled it, I'd have no reservations about continuing to service my car there. I bet the whole shop is going to give that tech shit for it lol and no one else there will make that mistake again for a long time.
Plus the car will be sitting in one of the bays at the dealership for the next three weeks plus reminding everyone of this huge error.

I'm sure they can't wait to get rid of it.
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      08-12-2014, 11:47 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclaib7 View Post
Thanks. Not at the finish line yet but headed in the right direction.

The service rep mentioned two years on the warranty for the new engine which I may have an issue with. It should reset back to 4 years/50,000 miles on the engine only. Thoughts?
Glad to hear you are moving in the right direction. Yes, a complete long block is the right answer and shows the dealer stepping up. But you should only expect a warranty that gets you to the end of your original 4/50K warranty. If the two years takes you beyond that, even better. I can't think of any manufacturer that resets the original warranty when they honor a claim under it -- even if it's an engine. There is typically still a finite period to the original warranty.

Best of luck!
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      08-13-2014, 12:34 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclaib7 View Post
Thanks. Not at the finish line yet but headed in the right direction.

The service rep mentioned two years on the warranty for the new engine which I may have an issue with. It should reset back to 4 years/50,000 miles on the engine only. Thoughts?
You will still have your original warranty... so IF you have more than two years left on it, everything is covered. Or if you only had say six months left on your car's warranty.... the engine is still covered by a parts warranty for two years, unlimited miles. So what ever is longer, you are covered.
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      08-13-2014, 06:05 AM   #42
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Glad you got this resolved.
When BMW deleted dip sticks they also removed the fail safe oil fill check from the oil change procedure.
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      08-13-2014, 07:21 AM   #43
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This was handled great. I'll have no problems continuing to take my 135i to this particular dealership. Nothing but pleasant experiences there, and now I know that IF something happens they will make it right.

Also they are now on high alert lol.
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      08-13-2014, 07:24 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awns729 View Post
I'd think you should at the very least get whichever is longer, your original 4 year/50k or the 2 year.
It's a 2013 and 1 year old with 15K miles so I still have 3 years or 35,000 miles left on the original warranty period.

The factory engine came with a 4 yr/50k mile warranty. Shouldn't a brand new engine as well?
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