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      01-27-2016, 06:00 AM   #45
DR-JEKL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Yeah the face just looks a little discoloured but looks like it might just be clutch material. Doesn't look too hard to machine to me, only the flywheel toothed ring is the sprung so it doesn't look too hard to clamp on a big lathe. You really don't want to get any metal shavings inside of the dual mass mechanism though, I think LUK quoted that as one of the reasons why you shouldn't machine it.

I would still have just bought a new one. Would prefer to have a new flywheel ready and just do everything in one weekend, rather than having the car's guts hanging on the garage and stressing me out. If I instead bought a 2nd hand flywheel and machined it I wouldn't have saved much money.

In your case, your flywheel has low kms and its not your daily driver, might make more sense for you to get yours machined.
Can you please take a pic side on of the flywheel when you get a chance so I can visualise how to grip the flywheel in a chuck?
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      01-27-2016, 05:55 PM   #46
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On Tuesday I fixed my exhaust leak.

Long story short, the aftermarket downpipes were the cause of the bad exhaust fitment.

The Agency Power downpipes were installed by the previous owner. The bolts were 10mm and fit into a 10mm hole. The stock downpipes have an 8mm stud going into a 10mm hole. This means the stock downpipes allow quite a lot of movement to allow oyu to rotate and fit your exhaust easily. The aftermarket ones came with bolts that were too tight fitting so the threads kept on gewtting caught on the edges of the holes, ruining the threads. I went to Masters and bought some grade 10.9 M8x35mm nuts bolts and washers and refitted.

The gaskets that came with the Agency Power downpipes were ruined on the re installation but I still have the stock downpipe gaskets which look much thicker and better quality. I reused with no issues. I have a pair of brand new gaskets but did not want to use as I plan on removing the exhaust again soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Can you please take a pic side on of the flywheel when you get a chance so I can visualise how to grip the flywheel in a chuck?
Attached are some quick pics of the flywheel. If you need measurements I'll get them when I get home tonight. I need to lever off the pressure plate as I couldn't get it off by hand this morning.

Will need a pretty big lathe to be able to machine it. I'd say you would probably need to machine some chuck jaws with a custom relief to clear the flywheel ring gear. Not that hard. Probably would be best held in a 4 or a 6 jaw chuck given that you can only chuck onto the front part of the flywheel (the part where my ruler is sitting on).
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      01-27-2016, 06:24 PM   #47
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Thanks Vince!

Yup that shall be plenty to grip on in a 4 jaw

I use to be a cnc machinist, and the Co I work for has quite a large machine shop most of it has been decommissioned though these days.

When I was 17 as an apprentice, one of the many machines I operated was a horizontal borer machining large forgings and we use to do up to a 60T forging (prop shaft for the frigates) and the chuck on that machine was bigger than me (I'm 2 meters in height)

Sounds crazy but to bore a 300mm hole in the prop shaft use to take me a week in one cut, the shafts were something like 12+ metres long!

A flywheel from the N54 isn't overley large in diameter in our machine shop
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      01-27-2016, 06:51 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Thanks Vince!

Yup that shall be plenty to grip on in a 4 jaw

I use to be a cnc machinist, and the Co I work for has quite a large machine shop most of it has been decommissioned though these days.

When I was 17 as an apprentice, one of the many machines I operated was a horizontal borer machining large forgings and we use to do up to a 60T forging (prop shaft for the frigates) and the chuck on that machine was bigger than me (I'm 2 meters in height)

Sounds crazy but to bore a 300mm hole in the prop shaft use to take me a week in one cut, the shafts were something like 12+ metres long!

A flywheel from the N54 isn't overley large in diameter in our machine shop
Ah looks like you'll be well equipped to tackle the job then!

If you want, I can send you my old flywheel so you can experiment with machining it. The dual mass mechanism feels ok so could be reused just fine, but I think you'd be better off machining your lower km flywheel and just using mine as a guinea pig.
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      01-28-2016, 12:08 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Ah looks like you'll be well equipped to tackle the job then!

If you want, I can send you my old flywheel so you can experiment with machining it. The dual mass mechanism feels ok so could be reused just fine, but I think you'd be better off machining your lower km flywheel and just using mine as a guinea pig.
Thanks for the offer Vince!

I'll let you know once I decide what I'm going to do with clutch upgrade..

Just looking at the pictures it seems relatively easy to grip the flywheel in a 4 jaw with a set of deep set jaws, and skim say 0.5mm off the face to remove the thin layer of the heat affected zone (any blue marks caused by excessive heat)

One thing I'm unsure of if removing thickness from the flywheel has any detrimental effects?

Ideally I would retain oem like driveability, so may go for the proven 550i/oem DMF or possibly motiv if I ever go for upgraded twins or ST...

Currently I'm thinking of just sticking with oem turbos and install inlets and be happy with 320-330 rwkw in a 'street' car.
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      01-28-2016, 12:27 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Thanks for the offer Vince!

I'll let you know once I decide what I'm going to do with clutch upgrade..

Just looking at the pictures it seems relatively easy to grip the flywheel in a 4 jaw with a set of deep set jaws, and skim say 0.5mm off the face to remove the thin layer of the heat affected zone (any blue marks caused by excessive heat)

One thing I'm unsure of if removing thickness from the flywheel has any detrimental effects?

Ideally I would retain oem like driveability, so may go for the proven 550i/oem DMF or possibly motiv if I ever go for upgraded twins or ST...

Currently I'm thinking of just sticking with oem turbos and install inlets and be happy with 320-330 rwkw in a 'street' car.
I think given that the machining marks are still present you'd easily get away with only machining 0.25mm. Given that the pressure plate has to compensate for the clutch disc wearing and becoming thinner I think that it should be fine.

If you were going upgraded turbos you definitely want to get a single mass, probably one of the heavier ones to retain stock drivability.

Just a tip, do not use the OEM/550i clutch with a single mass flywheel! The BMW clutch discs are completely rigid with a fixed hub and combining that with a single mass is going to give you noise. If going for a single mass, go for an aftermarket sprung clutch disc for smoother engagement.
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      02-18-2016, 06:46 PM   #51
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Done around 2000 kms on the clutch so far.

Drives like stock, can't really tell a difference with pedal pressure. Bite point is slightly deeper in the pedal travel, has caught me out a couple times where I had to get moving in a hurry in traffic Took me a week to get used to it fully.

Held power just fine on the Procede piggyback.

Now I have ditched the Procede and flashed to MHD Stage 2. Peaks to 19psi much more agressive tune and holds power no worries. It was a huge expense, probably around $1500 in just parts and tools but happy with the results. Would have to add in the cost of labour if you weren't doing it yourself. But after reading other people with chattering issues with single mass units I am glad I went the OEM route.
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      09-23-2017, 10:59 AM   #52
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Had a read of this as my clutch has started to smell pretty bad (although not yet slipping). Found this ebay listing for the DMF which is cheaper again than the ones you currently have in the first post, and figured anyone who was going through here would like to know

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332333759391
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