My PS2 turbo swap has begun (finally)

[JPuehl]

This past Saturday (1/4/2020) I started the PS2 turbo swap on my '12 135i w/N55. While I'm not going to reiterate the install steps and guides that are readily available I will share my thoughts/feedback/recommendations during the process.

As of right now, Monday morning, I have about 4 of the copper nuts holding the turbofold to the head and it will be free. Hopefully I'll have it off on Tuesday evening when I work on it again. I choose to leave the cooling and oil lines on the turbo and will try to remove them with the turbo free to give more access to the lines. If this makes it worse I'll reattach the turbo to the head and continue. I'm hoping to use bungee cord(s) to support the turbo so it doesn't hang from the lines while I'm trying to remove them. I'm trying to reuse the oil and cooling lines as the car only has 42k miles and the lines appear in good condition. Worst case is I'll replace them all if they get mangled and I have to cut them.

It took about 4 1/2 hours to remove everything needed to gain access to the turbo. I removed the front sway bar and the 2 bolts holding the steering rack to the front subframe but didn't completely disconnect it as it appears I'll have enough room by moving it.

Two notes about the engine support brace: 1. I would highly recommend removing as much from top including the turbofold heat shield and turbofold nuts as possible BEFORE attaching the engine support brace as the brace kind of gets in the way once installed. I managed to work around it but it would have been nice not to have to. 2. If you buy an engine brace, like I did, make sure you get one with long support arms, the arms that extend from the cross brace down to the fenders. The brace I bought from Harbor Freight online didn't sit high enough and I had to use a couple pieces of 2x4 to raise it high enough. It does appear if it's going to damage the fenders but it works and is not ideal.

I'm hoping to have everything back together next weekend.


Update: 2/3/2020, I just wanted to add the steps I remember taking to this post in case anyone planning on doing this swap themselves finds it helpful.

Turbo removal:
• Lift car & remove bottom cover(s), remove passenger side front wheel.
• Drain coolant & oil.
• While coolant drains, remove front top engine cover, remove intake including turbo inlet, cowl, passenger side strut tower brace, rear engine cover, heat shield above exhaust manifold, coolant fan, setup engine support.
• When coolant drained, remove coolant tank.
• From the bottom: remove sway bar, remove 2 bolts/nuts holding steering rack to sub-frame (leave tie-rods connected steering knuckles), remove coolant pump, remove FMIC including turbo outlet, remove small heat shield protecting steering racking tie rod boot, downpipe, vacuum line at WG, disconnect wires at the divertor valve, remove engine mount and stay.
• Spray oil & coolant connections with penetrating oil, leave sit over night if possible, or long enough for penetrating oil to do its thing.
• With oil drain pan under the turbo, remove the oil return line from the side of engine block, lots of oil will drain. When oil done draining remove line from bottom of turbo.
• Remove bolt holding the 2 coolant lines to the side of the turbo. I was able to access this bolt from under the car. Try to remove the 2 lines. These 2 lines can be left on when removing the turbofold so it’s not necessary to remove them but gives more room if removed.
• Remove upper coolant line from engine block.
• Remove upper oil feed line from engine block.
• Remove all cooper nuts holding on turbofold, making sure the last nut is removed while you’re under the engine to bring down the turbofold. The turbofold can be removed with the diverter valve, WG, 2 coolant lines and top oil feed line attached if done carefully.
• Note DV orientation as it can be reinstalled in 2 of 3 positions but only 1 is correct.

Turbo installation:
• With the top oil feed line and exhaust manifold gaskets installed on the turbo, push it up the same way it was removed. I found it easy to install by myself without the WG, diverter valve and coolant lines attached. I used the DV+ and found it easy to install after the turbo was in place and the upper coolant line attached to the engine block. The WG is also easy to install as was the 2 coolant lines that attach to the side of the turbo.
• Torque down the turbofold using the torque value and sequence documented by BMW.
• Install the coolant pump and coolant tank and add coolant and oil with new filter.
• Stop here, DON’T START THE ENGINE YET and “burp” the cooling system checking for leaks. I found that with the fan disconnected the coolant pump will run on its own for about 20 (or so) seconds when the car is turned on. The coolant pump will make an odd sound when running until all the air is purged from the system. I did this several times checking all connections for leaks before proceeding with the next cycle.
• Prime the engine oil by first removing the fuel injector wire connections. Crank the engine for about 20 seconds then check for leaks. I did this for 3 cycles and assumed the system was primped. I noticed that the engine would stop cranking on its own after about 20 (or so) seconds, so I didn’t need to time each cycle.
• Reconnect fuel injector wires.
• During reassembly, I stopped a couple times and verified the engine would start and check for leaks. I didn’t want to get the entire car reassembled to find out I missed something that needed a lot of stuff removed to access. I believe I did the following:
• Install FMIC including turbo outlet, connect DV wire & vacuum line to WG, engine mount & stay, downpipe, turbo inlet and temporarily connect intake. Start and let run checking for leaks.
• Finish reassembly stopping to start the engine whenever you feel the need.

[JPuehl]

Forgot to add in my original post that within the first 30 minutes of working on the swap I thought I was going to have to part out my car! I made the mistake that I've always heard that there is no recovering from, I removed the negative battery cable then closed my trunk. Within 5 minutes of doing this I realized what I did and figured I'd deal with it when I was done with the swap. After that, I took a break, ate lunch then had the idea of trying to jump my car with my X1 and sure enough, I hit the trunk release button on the key fob and the trunk opened. I've read posts and seen YouTube videos where people have had to disassemble the back of the car to try to reach the latch from the inside. Glad I didn't have to do that!

[houtan]

Congrats on the PS2. You are going to love it once she is up and running.

Are you planning on running the JB4 still or go flash only?

The space the turbofold fits through when you remove it from below is realllllly tight. I don't see how it will fit with the lines attached. However, I did not loosen my steering rack like you did so looking forward to hearing if you are able to remove everything with the lines.

Interesting you had an issue with the HF engine support. I used the same thing but did not have to use 2x4s. I have a picture in my thread on how I attached it to the motor. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...&highlight=PS2

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

Congrats on the PS2. You are going to love it once she is up and running.

Are you planning on running the JB4 still or go flash only?

The space the turbofold fits through when you remove it from below is realllllly tight. I don't see how it will fit with the lines attached. However, I did not loosen my steering rack like you did so looking forward to hearing if you are able to remove everything with the lines.

Interesting you had an issue with the HF engine support. I used the same thing but did not have to use 2x4s. I have a picture in my thread on how I attached it to the motor. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...&highlight=PS2

I am so looking forward to seeing how it feels. I plan to get a BEF, probably from wedge, but will probably keep the JB4 for use when I auto-cross race the car to put boost limits on it, especially in 1st gear.

I have a different engine support than you. The one I have when assembled was too low for the hook to grab the eye in the bolt. And when I said removing the turbo I meant I'd remove it to give access to the lines to remove them. I don't even have access to the bolt on the center housing pointing towards the passenger tire. I'll try to remove it with the lines first.

I read your entire swap thread in preparation for my swap. I read in another thread that someone reluctantly removed the sway bar and steering rack to help with the install so I figured I'd do it from the beginning.

[JPuehl]

I spent about an hour working on the car last night and made pretty good progress. Right now the turbo is held on by 1 loose copper nut and the lower bracket. The oil and cooling lines came out of the engine pretty easily but the oil lines on the turbo are not coming off without a fight. The hard oil line on the top side goes right in front of one of the copper nuts so I had to bend it slightly to get a socket on the nut. I'll probably replace this line. I'm hoping with the turbo loose I can pry off the 2 oil lines, but I'll try dropping the turbo out first.

I would recommend that if you car is higher mileage (not sure what that would be) just cut the rubber part of the lines, bend the hard lines out off the way instead of wasting time trying to remove them. I've read people saying they spent hours trying to remove the lines. I've read new lines are only $45 each so just add new lines to the "install kit" and save some time.

When removing the lower oil line from the block make sure you have oil drain pan as a lot of oil will drain.

With the turbofold heat shield and coolant tank removed, I was able to reach about 3/4 of the copper nuts from the top side, even with the engine support brace in the way.

I'm hoping to have the turbo removed tonight.

[mike@x-ph.com]

sub'd

[houtan]

ahhhh, i had no idea they made a different version of that engine support. I like your solution to get it to work!

You know what, i totally think removing the steering rack was a good move because it will give you some much needed room to drop the turbofold and put the new one on.

I still cringe when I think about removing and of the lines that had coolant running through it. I think my car was at 50K when i did the install, and those coolant lines were basically seized on. I wish i though of just cutting them instead of trying to install them, would have saved me a couple of evenings under the car.

I ran the JB4 stock turbo but went MHD before the PS2 and have stayed that way. To me the DCT cars run much better. You can limit boost in gears 1, 2, and 3 in the MHD app, but I have never tried it. I know the appeal of the JB4, you can switch maps quickly, you basically do not have any additional costs after your turbo install to dial the car in, vs having to pay for an e-tune and grabbing logs at least a few times to get the car dialed in. IMO, the car runs better flash only if you have the right tune. Either way, Wedge would be who i go with whether you need a BEF or a stand alone tune.

I am sure you already know this, but another thing to keep in mind in your next mod list is an M2,3,4 flywheel. Just got mine put in a few months ago and wish i had the funds to do it much sooner. It's shocking how much heavier the stock flywheel is and how much easier the engine revs now. You will also be stuck at around 18psi boost and 11 degrees timing with the stock flywheel.

Good luck getting the turbo off. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

ahhhh, i had no idea they made a different version of that engine support. I like your solution to get it to work!

You know what, i totally think removing the steering rack was a good move because it will give you some much needed room to drop the turbofold and put the new one on.

I still cringe when I think about removing and of the lines that had coolant running through it. I think my car was at 50K when i did the install, and those coolant lines were basically seized on. I wish i though of just cutting them instead of trying to install them, would have saved me a couple of evenings under the car.

I ran the JB4 stock turbo but went MHD before the PS2 and have stayed that way. To me the DCT cars run much better. You can limit boost in gears 1, 2, and 3 in the MHD app, but I have never tried it. I know the appeal of the JB4, you can switch maps quickly, you basically do not have any additional costs after your turbo install to dial the car in, vs having to pay for an e-tune and grabbing logs at least a few times to get the car dialed in. IMO, the car runs better flash only if you have the right tune. Either way, Wedge would be who i go with whether you need a BEF or a stand alone tune.

I am sure you already know this, but another thing to keep in mind in your next mod list is an M2,3,4 flywheel. Just got mine put in a few months ago and wish i had the funds to do it much sooner. It's shocking how much heavier the stock flywheel is and how much easier the engine revs now. You will also be stuck at around 18psi boost and 11 degrees timing with the stock flywheel.

Good luck getting the turbo off. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Hmm, I actually didn't know about the M2,3,4 flywheel but after reading you response, it's now on my mod list. I know when I put an aluminum flywheel on another car I auto-cross raced it rev'd much quicker.

I plan to get a stand alone tune so I can get the most out of the turbo, and I believe the JB4 has an option to "keep the safeties and run a stand alone flash", which I might try but if it doesn't work out I'll ditch the JB4 and go stand alone only. The JB4 is nice but as others have complained about, it's not that "smooth".

[houtan]

I just set up a search on ebay so i would get notifications on when a new ad with the part number was posted. Ended up with a lightly used one from an M2 (less than 4K miles) for around $520 shipped. I am testing things with stock fuel system right now and this is where i am at: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/acn-rev1...28-29-30-31-32. Our gas is trash here, ACN91, but I have been using this stuff called boostane to up the octane to 97, and it seems to be working. The per tank cost works out to around $5.50, so it is very economical as well.

You can set the JB4 to passive mode, but the biggest draw back with that is you still have to log with the JB4, which is pitiful compared to MHD. You will see that if you look at the log i posted.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

I just set up a search on ebay so i would get notifications on when a new ad with the part number was posted. Ended up with a lightly used one from an M2 (less than 4K miles) for around $520 shipped. I am testing things with stock fuel system right now and this is where i am at: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/acn-rev1...28-29-30-31-32. Our gas is trash here, ACN91, but I have been using this stuff called boostane to up the octane to 97, and it seems to be working. The per tank cost works out to around $5.50, so it is very economical as well.

You can set the JB4 to passive mode, but the biggest draw back with that is you still have to log with the JB4, which is pitiful compared to MHD. You will see that if you look at the log i posted.

Wow, your log looks great. Good point about trying to keep the JB4 and log. I'll probably ditch the JB4 once I get ready for a real tune, which I'll need to do anyway to be able to get logs for the tuner.

We have 92 octane here in WA and I have access to 100 octane not far from my house, but at $10 per gallon. I'm going to look into the boostane stuff as $5.50 per tank is nothing.

Thanks for your responses btw, and your pretty thorough thread on your PS2 upgrade, I read every post several times leading up to my swap.

[ferocity02]

Which lines are you suggesting to replace? The oil or coolant lines?

Oil Feed: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11427585402/

Oil Return: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11427585403/

Coolant Feed: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11537583900/

Coolant Return: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11537583903/

[JPuehl]

lol, from BOOSTane's website. Anyone know if they use BOOSTane in this car?

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

Which lines are you suggesting to replace? The oil or coolant lines?

Oil Feed: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11427585402/

Oil Return: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11427585403/

Coolant Feed: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11537583900/

Coolant Return: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11537583903/

Personally I would say which ever line takes more than about 10 minutes to remove. Unfortunately the oil lines, which are the most expensive, seem to be the hardest to remove, at least on the turbo end with the turbo still bolted to the head. My coolant lines came off pretty easily. Figuring that it's already a $3k+ upgrade, I'd budget for some new lines.

[houtan]

I am glad to help. Really happy to hear my thread helped because that was my main purpose for making it.

LOL on the Boostane pic. I honestly had no idea.

[ferocity02]

I read a few ps2 threads and am now confused on which oil/coolant lines are best to leave attached to the turbo, if any, during removal of the turbo from the car.

[JPuehl]

Took about 10 minutes last night but the turbo is out. Was easy to drop it down behind the cross member even with the 3 lines still attached to the turbo housing. I think the only line I'll replace is the upper coolant line since I bent it to give access to the copper nut behind it. The line is not kinked but better safe than sorry. I earlier thought the line I had to bend was an oil so I lucked out and it's a cheaper coolant line.

It took about 6 hours to get the turbo out. While I was removing the lines from the turbo housing and seeing the lines has some corrosion, I thought that removing the lines would probably have been much easier if I sprayed them with penetrating oil and let it sit over night. That's a suggestion for the next person removing their turbo.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

I read a few ps2 threads and am now confused on which oil/coolant lines are best to leave attached to the turbo, if any, during removal of the turbo from the car.

I left the 3 you can still see attached to the turbo housing in the pic. They are the line on the very top and the 2 attached to the passenger side. I think that spraying them with penetrating oil will allow them to be removed before removing the turbo.

[JPuehl]

Made good progress with the couple hours I had to work on my car today. The turbo is mounted and torqued down. Now I just have all the little stuff to reattach.

I would recommend leaving off the wastegate actuator when moving the turbofold up into place. Doing that allowed me to get the turbo in place in no time. I'd recommend removing it before trying to drop the old one to make dropping it thru the frame easy.

I would also recommend leaving off the upper coolant link so you have access to the number 10 nut. Using a little oil on the o-ring allows you to install the connection on the turbo.

If you will be using the GFB DV+ like I am, you'll want to install it after the oil feed line is installed on the block and the bolt torqued down. Another simple install when the turbo is in place.

Hopefully I'll have more time to work on it tomorrow.

[JPuehl]

Just an update. This past Saturday (1/18) I got everything connected and torqued down that needed to be in place the test for coolant or oil leaks. I started with the coolant and the coolant lines on the side of the turbo leaked! I removed the lines from the turbo and the oil rings were pinched/cut. I'm not sure if this happened while I removed the lines as I installed them with the turbo on the work bench (a.k.a. the garage floor). But thinking about it as I type this update I'm not 100% sure I torqued down the screw holding the lines in place as I believe I left it loose to allow movement of the lines while doing the install. I bought new oil rings and will be trying it again in the next day or so.

I still have a few things to reinstall after the leaks are corrected, like the steering rack, sway bar and I want to install a new motor mount on the drivers side, which is not looking fun.

[kaiv]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

Just an update. This past Saturday (1/18) I got everything connected and torqued down that needed to be in place the test for coolant or oil leaks. I started with the coolant and the coolant lines on the side of the turbo leaked! I removed the lines from the turbo and the oil rings were pinched/cut. I'm not sure if this happened while I removed the lines as I installed them with the turbo on the work bench (a.k.a. the garage floor). But thinking about it as I type this update I'm not 100% sure I torqued down the screw holding the lines in place as I believe I left it loose to allow movement of the lines while doing the install. I bought new oil rings and will be trying it again in the next day or so.

I still have a few things to reinstall after the leaks are corrected, like the steering rack, sway bar and I want to install a new motor mount on the drivers side, which is not looking fun.

Coolant o-rings: try a little vaseline on them, that'll help make sure they sit in nicely without getting pinched.

Nice thread. Timely for me as I'm getting ready for the same install.
Did you install the extra spring your DV+?

[houtan]

I Do not know if Vaseline is compatible with the rubber O-rings. I used this on all my o rings. The only time I used something different was an oil lines, I used motor oil if it was next to me, if not, DC4.

You are almost there!

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by kaiv

Coolant o-rings: try a little vaseline on them, that'll help make sure they sit in nicely without getting pinched.

Nice thread. Timely for me as I'm getting ready for the same install.
Did you install the extra spring your DV+?

I did install the extra spring as I believe the instructions sound it would make it "sportier" and without the spring it would be like OEM. So far the only difference I've noticed is the sound of the boost getting dumped when I quickly let off the throttle.