My PS2 turbo swap has begun (finally)

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

I Do not know if Vaseline is compatible with the rubber O-rings. I used this on all my o rings. The only time I used something different was an oil lines, I used motor oil if it was next to me, if not, DC4.

You are almost there!

I ended up using a little motor oil as I figured that since it's recommended to use motor oil to lube the rubber o-ring on the oil filter cover that it is probably good enough to install these hoses. The difference however is the hoses are installed for long term use while the oil filter cover o-ring is replaced at least once per year, I guess time will tell.

[JPuehl]

This past Saturday (1/25) I got my car completely reassembled and back on the road, with no extra parts including screws, bolts and nuts, lol.

This past Thursday I got the coolant lines reinstalled and again tested the coolant system for leaks and there was none. What I believe happened was that with the install kit there are 2 sets of black rubber o-rings that are the same diameter however 1 set is slightly thicker than the other. I bought a new set of o-rings from the dealer and they are the smaller of the 2. I believe I put the larger set on originally and didn’t realize that when I “forced” the lines in place I cut/pinched the o-ring causing the leak. Once I realized I had no coolant leak I cycled through the “burping” of the coolant system until I heard no “gurgling” in the coolant system.

Saturday morning, I changed the oil and filter and disconnected the injector wires and proceeded to prime the oil system checking for leaks after each cycle and found none. I checked for coolant leaks again and found none, so I was confident I could start reassembling the car just enough to start it and check for leaks. I installed the passenger side motor mount, downpipe, and all the intake piping. Also reconnected the injector connectors. The car started immediately and I let it idle and checked for leaks, none found. Revved it a few times still checking for leaks and found none. Was now confident I could reconnect the remaining stuff, including swapping the drivers side motor mount that required me to drop the front subframe a couple inches so I could remove the old and install the new mount. I went with the 034Motorsport Engine mounts since I drive the car more aggressively than it was probably designed for. The interesting thing about these mounts is that it appears they are made from some OEM parts. They are supposed to be solid rubber rather than liquid filled. They have some of the same part number as my OEM mounts and don’t feel any heavier.

After taking a few short trips around my neighborhood, returning each time to check for any leaks and again finding none I decided to log a third gear pull and when I did that, at about 5200 rpm the JB4 switched to the safety map (map 4) targeting 7 lbs of boost, from MAP 5 which I normally use. That happened to me about 3 times throughout the evening. I need to do some research as I believe I need the N20 TMAP sensor but I thought I read on the N54TECH site not to do that because the JB4 “emulates” the N20 TMAP sensor. Looking at the log I did the JB4 might be having a hard time holding the boost at the target 17.5 as actual boost was 18 – 19 lbs, until it switched to MAP 4.

I can say that I can really feel the difference, much better pull and can’t wait it get it sorted out!


Note: I just reviewed the N54TECH site and it says "A N20 3.5bar TMAP sensor is required.", so I need the N20 TMAP.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

This past Saturday (1/25) I got my car completely reassembled and back on the road, with no extra parts including screws, bolts and nuts, lol.

This past Thursday I got the coolant lines reinstalled and again tested the coolant system for leaks and there was none. What I believe happened was that with the install kit there are 2 sets of black rubber o-rings that are the same diameter however 1 set is slightly thicker than the other. I bought a new set of o-rings from the dealer and they are the smaller of the 2. I believe I put the larger set on originally and didn’t realize that when I “forced” the lines in place I cut/pinched the o-ring causing the leak. Once I realized I had no coolant leak I cycled through the “burping” of the coolant system until I heard no “gurgling” in the coolant system.

Saturday morning, I changed the oil and filter and disconnected the injector wires and proceeded to prime the oil system checking for leaks after each cycle and found none. I checked for coolant leaks again and found none, so I was confident I could start reassembling the car just enough to start it and check for leaks. I installed the passenger side motor mount, downpipe, and all the intake piping. Also reconnected the injector connectors. The car started immediately and I let it idle and checked for leaks, none found. Revved it a few times still checking for leaks and found none. Was now confident I could reconnect the remaining stuff, including swapping the drivers side motor mount that required me to drop the front subframe a couple inches so I could remove the old and install the new mount. I went with the 034Motorsport Engine mounts since I drive the car more aggressively than it was probably designed for. The interesting thing about these mounts is that it appears they are made from some OEM parts. They are supposed to be solid rubber rather than liquid filled. They have some of the same part number as my OEM mounts and don’t feel any heavier.

After taking a few short trips around my neighborhood, returning each time to check for any leaks and again finding none I decided to log a third gear pull and when I did that, at about 5200 rpm the JB4 switched to the safety map (map 4) targeting 7 lbs of boost, from MAP 5 which I normally use. That happened to me about 3 times throughout the evening. I need to do some research as I believe I need the N20 TMAP sensor but I thought I read on the N54TECH site not to do that because the JB4 “emulates” the N20 TMAP sensor. Looking at the log I did the JB4 might be having a hard time holding the boost at the target 17.5 as actual boost was 18 – 19 lbs, until it switched to MAP 4.

I can say that I can really feel the difference, much better pull and can’t wait it get it sorted out!


Note: I just reviewed the N54TECH site and it says "A N20 3.5bar TMAP sensor is required.", so I need the N20 TMAP.

what code is jb4 throwing? did you flash their n55 'big turbo" back end flash? 18.5 psi should sitll be well below stock tmap range. You usually start seeing clipping around 23psi+ I think you have some other issue.

[ferocity02]

Some notes from my install:

1. Leave the oil feed line, both coolant lines, BOV, and wastegate attached to the turbo when removing. You could remove the BOV and wastegate before removing the turbo for a little more wiggle room, but it's not required. Remove the oil drain line before removing the turbo.

2. You must install the oil feed line on the turbo before installing the turbo into the car. Careful not to pinch the o-ring! Leave the other lines, BOV, and wastegate off for more wiggle room.

3. No need to get crazy counting threads on the wastegate rod. Just remove the outer nut and don't touch the inner nut. Pictures are always good though.

4. This is a good time to replace the water pump and thermostat since they need to be removed anyways.

5. No need to unbolt or remove the steering rack. It's in the way, but easy enough to get around.

6. Change the plugs at this time time if you need to. I used NGK 97506 gapped to .022"per Wedge's recommendation.

7. Plug all holes on the turbo with paper towels during install to ensure no crud gets in the turbo. Make sure to remove them before making connections!

8. Make damn sure the exhaust manifold gaskets are seated into the cylinder head before torquing down the copper flange nuts. You have to lift the turbo while tightening the flange nuts to ensure the gaskets get seated into their grooves.

9. Use gloves when removing and installing the turbo. It's heavy with sharp edges. I gouged the crap out of my hand removing the stock turbo.

10. You do not need a helper when installing the turbo. Sure it would make it easier, but not required. I installed the turbo by myself on my back and I'm not very strong. Have some flange nuts handy to hold the turbo on the head after you lift it in place.

11. Lube all o-rings with motor oil. Install carefully to ensure they don't pinch or tear. Pure should really chamfer all of the holes to prevent cutting.

12. Connect the oil feed line to the block before installing the BOV.

13. I had to remove the intercooler to get the turbo outlet pipe off the turbo.

14. I had to bend the hard portion of the coolant drain line (11537583903) out of the way to access the flange nut behind it. I could have bent it back to reuse but I decided to order another one along with the coolant feed line (11537583900). I reused both oil feed and drain lines no problem.

15. Get a few spare exhaust manifold studs. If they come out with the flange nut it is nearly impossibly to separate the stud from the nut without damaging the stud's threads.

16. Spend enough time digging out old exhaust manifold gasket material. I spent a couple hours making sure all of the old graphite material was cleaned out.

I'll add more notes to this post as they come up.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

what code is jb4 throwing? did you flash their n55 'big turbo" back end flash? 18.5 psi should sitll be well below stock tmap range. You usually start seeing clipping around 23psi+ I think you have some other issue.

I'm not getting any codes. I didn't flash with the "large turbo map because it same it's for "E85 mixtures of 50% or more", and I'm only using 92 pump gas. I am reading thru the "N55 Large Turbo Tuning info" section now and may need to make adjustments based on that. BMS does specify needing the use of the N20 TMAP but you're right about the OEM TMAP.

[ferocity02]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

I'm not getting any codes. I didn't flash with the "large turbo map because it same it's for "E85 mixtures of 50% or more", and I'm only using 92 pump gas. I am reading thru the "N55 Large Turbo Tuning info" section now and may need to make adjustments based on that. BMS does specify needing the use of the N20 TMAP but you're right about the OEM TMAP.

Is yours a "late" e-series? If so you'll likely need to upgrade the HPFP with one from XDI or Spool Performance.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

Is yours a "late" e-series? If so you'll likely need to upgrade the HPFP with one from XDI or Spool Performance.

I lucked out as my production date 6/2011.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

what code is jb4 throwing? did you flash their n55 'big turbo" back end flash? 18.5 psi should sitll be well below stock tmap range. You usually start seeing clipping around 23psi+ I think you have some other issue.

I did some checking on the N54 tech site and Dave from BMS said you have to be over the boost safety longer than momentarily to get kicked to map 4, which I was. So I need to raise my boost safety or create my own map 6.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

I did some checking on the N54 tech site and Dave from BMS said you have to be over the boost safety longer than momentarily to get kicked to map 4, which I was. So I need to raise my boost safety or create my own map 6.

Sounds right. You're over-boosting so it's throwing you into limp mode.

You really need a decent backend/custom tune with a ps2. Jb4 can only do so much. You're going to be maxing out the stock fuel scalers. The stock timing curve is likely too aggressive for 92aki and now more power.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Sounds right. You're over-boosting so it's throwing you into limp mode.

You really need a decent backend/custom tune with a ps2. Jb4 can only do so much. You're going to be maxing out the stock fuel scalers. The stock timing curve is likely too aggressive for 92aki and now more power.

Oh I know. I want to swap the DCT flywheel to the lighter M2/M3/M4 flywheel and am waiting to hear back whether I should do that before getting a tune or not. Trying to reduce the number of iterations with a custom tune. I plan to have a tune done by Wedge.

[houtan]

Don’t say I didn’t try to warn you about the o rings! Lol, I did the same thing initially. Somehow I realized it right before installing the lines back in.

If you are planning to do the flywheel soon, I recommend waiting to get the tune from wedge until after the flywheel install. If it’s going to be a year or two, get it now and ditch the JB4.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

Oh I know. I want to swap the DCT flywheel to the lighter M2/M3/M4 flywheel and am waiting to hear back whether I should do that before getting a tune or not. Trying to reduce the number of iterations with a custom tune. I plan to have a tune done by Wedge.

IDK how well proven it really is that the DCT flywheel is an issue. At least not ones that are still functioning normally (DMFW do fail). Run a custom map 6 at 20psi and see if you get misfires? No reason not to start a custom tune... if you start getting misfires at high rpm then you know what to look at already. Take care of it and go back to tuning if the issue crops up? That's what I would do, personally. No reason to throw parts at the car if not needed.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

IDK how well proven it really is that the DCT flywheel is an issue. At least not ones that are still functioning normally (DMFW do fail). Run a custom map 6 at 20psi and see if you get misfires? No reason not to start a custom tune... if you start getting misfires at high rpm then you know what to look at already. Take care of it and go back to tuning if the issue crops up? That's what I would do, personally. No reason to throw parts at the car if not needed.

It is 100% known the stock flywheel will cause misfires. Happens on the n54 335is and N55 135i. No reason to debate that. We went in circles for more than 3 years trying to blindly figure that out. It is the most frustrating thing to deal with when you are putting 490whp to the ground and the entire car just dies into limp mode for no reason.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

IDK how well proven it really is that the DCT flywheel is an issue. At least not ones that are still functioning normally (DMFW do fail). Run a custom map 6 at 20psi and see if you get misfires? No reason not to start a custom tune... if you start getting misfires at high rpm then you know what to look at already. Take care of it and go back to tuning if the issue crops up? That's what I would do, personally. No reason to throw parts at the car if not needed.

The 2 reasons I'm looking at swapping to the M DCT flywheel is to "fix" the misfires AND loose 10 lbs of rotating weight. The secondary use of my car is to auto-cross it with the occasional track day and drag racing (not to mention "spirited" driving on the street).

I'm hoping to swap the flywheel by this summer and am currently looking a shop that can do the swap as I'm sure that I want to attempt it in my garage using jack stands. I'll probably wait to do the custom tune until the flywheel is done and do what I can using map 6. I setup map 6 as is recommended on the N54tech page about the large turbos but am waiting for a dry enough day to log a pull.

I did changed my safety boost to 21, which was recommended by Dave @ BMS, and checked it this morning on the way to my office and it still dropped to map 4 because it was at 21.1 lbs of boost from 3800 to 4400 rpm, target was 19. I'm really liking how the PS2 is working and looking forward to being able to log a full 3rd gear pull.

Timing is not that great at 21 lbs of boost but I'm going to try "boostane" recommended by houtan and see how the timing looks. Once I can see how map 6 works I should be able to dial the boost back to get more timing.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

Don’t say I didn’t try to warn you about the o rings! Lol, I did the same thing initially. Somehow I realized it right before installing the lines back in.

If you are planning to do the flywheel soon, I recommend waiting to get the tune from wedge until after the flywheel install. If it’s going to be a year or two, get it now and ditch the JB4.

LOL, yes you did warn me in your thread. I remember looking at the old o-rings and thought they were the bigger of the 2. Hopefully that doesn't mean I put the smaller o-rings on the oil feed line that should have the larger o-ring. It's the oil line that attaches to the top of the turbo that would be a 'b' to replace.

[houtan]

What plugs/gap did you go with?

What timing is the bms BEF targeting?

It has been years since I played with JB4 settings, but i think the Duty Bias setting is what helped dial in the boost.

If you run the boostane, i recommend adding the needed amount to get to 99 octane. Still figuring out the most efficient way to transfer the additive into the gas tank. What i am doing now is measuring the required amount using a graduated cylinder i got from amazon to get 7 gallons to 99 octane (which is about 265ML) and putting that in an empty boostane bottle. Then when i am at less than half a tank and know i can fill up at least 7 gallons, i pour in the boostane using a small funnel, then fill up the 7 gallons so it mixes immediately.

Here is a table i made for the boostane mixes. It's in excel so i can send it to you to if you want to adjust for your octane rating using the tables on boostane's website.

I forgot wedges policy but i believe he allows for revisions for up to one year after purchase of an etune. I am not sure if that includes a revision to up the boost some more after the flywheel install. That may be an additional $100.

I forgot to mention in my previous post about the flywheel. In addition to being shocked about how heavy it was, what surprised me even more is the weight can attached to the flywheel can be wobbled back and forth by hand. In addition the crank connects to the weight, not the flywheel, and it becomes clear how the two can both shake and cause issues.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

What plugs/gap did you go with?

What timing is the bms BEF targeting?

It has been years since I played with JB4 settings, but i think the Duty Bias setting is what helped dial in the boost.

If you run the boostane, i recommend adding the needed amount to get to 99 octane. Still figuring out the most efficient way to transfer the additive into the gas tank. What i am doing now is measuring the required amount using a graduated cylinder i got from amazon to get 7 gallons to 99 octane (which is about 265ML) and putting that in an empty boostane bottle. Then when i am at less than half a tank and know i can fill up at least 7 gallons, i pour in the boostane using a small funnel, then fill up the 7 gallons so it mixes immediately.

Here is a table i made for the boostane mixes. It's in excel so i can send it to you to if you want to adjust for your octane rating using the tables on boostane's website.

I forgot wedges policy but i believe he allows for revisions for up to one year after purchase of an etune. I am not sure if that includes a revision to up the boost some more after the flywheel install. That may be an additional $100.

I forgot to mention in my previous post about the flywheel. In addition to being shocked about how heavy it was, what surprised me even more is the weight can attached to the flywheel can be wobbled back and forth by hand. In addition the crank connects to the weight, not the flywheel, and it becomes clear how the two can both shake and cause issues.

So far I still have the OEM replacement plugs gaped at OEM (don't remember what that is off the top of my head but did look it up when I replaced the plugs. I think I've read people going with the N20 plugs when they increase the boost, but plugs is something I need to look into.

Yes, the WGDC helps control the boost and I'll play with that until I get a real tune. I'll have to check on the targeted timing used on the JB4 BEF, which means I'll have to reload the app used to view/edit the map files. I had the app on a different laptop that I no longer have.

Can you send me the spreadsheet used to calculate the amount of Boostane needed? You can email it to jpuehl64@gmail.com if that's easiest. On the Boostane website they state that you can use their app to calculate the amount of Boostane needed to achieve the octane you want, but I haven't found the app, lol. Also, I'm assuming you're using the "Premium" not "Professional" version they have, right? Oh, the app only works on iPhones so I'll have my daughter download the app, lol.


Correction, I think you're using the professional as the per OZ is slightly more than your spreadsheet based on the current price listed on the Boostane website.

[houtan]

There is a great sticky thread on spark plugs in the N55 subforum on s p o o l s t r e e t (https://*********************/thread...se.2160/page-3). Per bbnks's recommendation, i went with NGK 97506 SILZKBR8D8S. Initially i gapped them at .025. After the flywheel i had a weird timing issue that turned out to be tune related, but as an attempted fix i gapped the plugs to .020. Car ran fine at both gaps.

Yeah sure. I am using the professional and purchased through amazon. so the app hasn't work for me and would consistently crash... until today. i just tried it again and it finally works.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

There is a great sticky thread on spark plugs in the N55 subforum on s p o o l s t r e e t (https://*********************/thread...se.2160/page-3). Per bbnks's recommendation, i went with NGK 97506 SILZKBR8D8S. Initially i gapped them at .025. After the flywheel i had a weird timing issue that turned out to be tune related, but as an attempted fix i gapped the plugs to .020. Car ran fine at both gaps.

Yeah sure. I am using the professional and purchased through amazon. so the app hasn't work for me and would consistently crash... until today. i just tried it again and it finally works.

Thanks, I'll read the sticky and that spreadsheet worked awesome! I had my daughter help get the recommendations from the boostane app and to turn 92 into 98 at a 12 gallon fill up only costs $4.68 per tank! And it would cost only $14.03 to make a tank of 100 octane. And I know YMMV, but I want to see what it does with the timing.

[JPuehl]

Just ordered an M4 flywheel from Ebay for $500 including sales tax, not a bad price. Just need to find an indy to install it so I can get a tune.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

Thanks, I'll read the sticky and that spreadsheet worked awesome! I had my daughter help get the recommendations from the boostane app and to turn 92 into 98 at a 12 gallon fill up only costs $4.68 per tank! And it would cost only $14.03 to make a tank of 100 octane. And I know YMMV, but I want to see what it does with the timing.

Awesome. Yeah, it really is great when you see how cost effective it is. Hopefully it works as advertised. I have used for a couple hundred miles only, but at 99 octane it seems to have me at the same place i was when running E30 and 100% meth. My logs were probably a tiiiiiny bit cleaner with the old setup, but with boostane it's close.

I am going to a track day in a couple of weeks so that will be a great test on how it performs.

Nice buy on the flywheel! I think my install was around $500 from a reputable indy, but i provided all of the required HW and fluid for topping off the transmission. It would have been around $550 if i had the shop provide all the install hw.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

Saturday morning, I changed the oil and filter and disconnected the injector wires and proceeded to prime the oil system checking for leaks after each cycle and found none.

Can you please talk a little more about how you do this process? Do you just unplug the injectors and hit the start button? Then how do you stop the car from cranking after that?