Trim piece wear, replacement and disassembly

[rad doc]

After 70k miles, some of the rubber coated interior parts in my 1m have minor wear. To keep car pristine I would like to replace. Anyone else done this yet?Found parts on real oem. Anybody have service guide or other guide for disassembly of center console, gear lever and e brake cover, etc?

Thanks.

[nachob]

Originally Posted by rad doc

After 70k miles, some of the rubber coated interior parts in my 1m have minor wear. To keep car pristine I would like to replace. Anyone else done this yet?Found parts on real oem. Anybody have service guide or other guide for disassembly of center console, gear lever and e brake cover, etc?

Thanks.

I have done it. I changed the entire console and arm rest. The arm rest was creeking and dealer attempts to fix it made it worse. I put a couple of scratches on the drivers side near where my knee rests so when I decided to just replace the entire armrest. I bought the new console too.

[nachob]

I used this DIY as a baseline:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213833

I also removed the passenger seat for working room. I used this DIY but it says to code for SRS, etc. I just disconnected the battery ground first, then disconnected the seat airbag, reconnected the seat before finally reconnecting the battery and there were no codes at all. Also safer to work and I recommend this. I had to reset my radio stations that's all. DON'T CLOSE THE TRUNK AFTER DISCONNECTING BATTERY IT WON"T OPEN.

Luckily I had a jumper pack that I connected to the engine battery posts so I could open the trunk in order to reconnect it.

Here is the seat removal DIY

Also, I recommend you get the anti-marring tools from Harbor Freight before starting.

I also took the opportunity to put BMW silencing tape on anything that looked like it might rattle before putting it all back together. Looks great, just like new and the center console doesn't creak all the time. Also, I went with the non-phone cradle center console that is more useful since i don't use the cradle in the armrest.

Removing the shift knob is a pain, make sure you remove the boot first as it is attached to the knob. If you don't you might rip the boot off when it lets go.

What are your questions and concerns?

[rad doc]

Wow, great info. Thanks guys. The soft plastic stuff on the console trim is so easy to damage. Irritating. Figure it is good to replace while still available.

I did same thing with battery and trunk when I replaced my seatbelts. Had me stumped for a minute till I remembered the jumper.

[nachob]

Originally Posted by rad doc

Wow, great info. Thanks guys. The soft plastic stuff on the console trim is so easy to damage. Irritating. Figure it is good to replace while still available.

I did same thing with battery and trunk when I replaced my seatbelts. Had me stumped for a minute till I remembered the jumper.

You can see I covered the parking handle with a sock to slide the console out once parking boot is removed. I'm really happy with it. I also applied BMW noise suppression tape to parts that buzz or rattle like the rubber Matt in the console tray and since I had the front seat out I also took the back seat out and put the tape on rear tray too.

[rad doc]

Originally Posted by nachob

You can see I covered the parking handle with a sock to slide the console out once parking boot is removed. I'm really happy with it. I also applied BMW noise suppression tape to parts that buzz or rattle like the rubber Matt in the console tray and since I had the front seat out I also took the back seat out and put the tape on rear tray too.

How hard was it to change the ebrake boot and shifter boot? Mine are a little worn and ebrake boot is permanently wrinkled. My center console tray also has a few areas of marring so might as well change the whole console as well!

[nachob]

Originally Posted by rad doc

How hard was it to change the ebrake boot and shifter boot? Mine are a little worn and ebrake boot is permanently wrinkled. My center console tray also has a few areas of marring so might as well change the whole console as well!

The shift boot is easy but attached to shift knob. If you buy them they are a unit. The parking brake is a little harder because you have to turn it inside out and cut the tie wrap holding it on. It was hard because I wanted to reuse the boot but if you replace it no problem. It's not super hard but slow going so you don't damage anything . If you have any questions Pm me and I can give you my phone if you have other questions .

[champignon]

Originally Posted by rad doc

How hard was it to change the ebrake boot and shifter boot? Mine are a little worn and ebrake boot is permanently wrinkled. My center console tray also has a few areas of marring so might as well change the whole console as well!

You can replace just the ebrake or shift boot or both, without the need to buy a new shift knob, although it will be easier to do so.

I bought a set for my 2000 Z3M Coupe from this ebay seller, whose 2011 1-Series offerings I have linked below:

http://stores.ebay.com/thetuningshop...1+Series+2011+

If you do buy a separate shift boot then you will need to carefully separate the shift knob on top and the plastic retaining holder below. You will have to play with it and there are multiple ways to secure the top and bottom of the boot, such as a zip tie or small clamp at the top, and either pressure fitting or glue at the bottom.

Easiest however would be to buy the OEM set of knob and boot from BMW, unless you want to put in an aftermarket shift knob, in which case buying separate boots would be the way the go.

[rad doc]

Thanks. I think I will replace the whole shifter and brake boot. Purchased the non marring tools today.

Anyone have part number for center console with nav? Realoem shows 51169193395 but on ECS that center console has 2 cup holders. Mine only has one and the nav control unit.

[rad doc]

Found it. 51169169507 just in case anyone else needs it

[nachob]

Originally Posted by rad doc

Found it. 51169169507 just in case anyone else needs it

Mine doesn't have nav so o drive will complicate it. : (

[rad doc]

Yeah hopefully it doesn't complicate it too much. Ordered center console and all trim pieces. Also ordered new shifter and boot. Cant decide on ebrake, its only slightly worn but the dumb thing is 200 bucks. Now just need a front bumper respray and will be as good as new.

[nachob]

Originally Posted by rad doc

Yeah hopefully it doesn't complicate it too much. Ordered center console and all trim pieces. Also ordered new shifter and boot. Cant decide on ebrake, its only slightly worn but the dumb thing is 200 bucks. Now just need a front bumper respray and will be as good as new.

Cool! I though I was the only guy anal and crazy enough to change the whole thing! Feel better now. My boots were in good shape. And console scratched were so minor but armrest was driving me crazy so I figured if I was going to do it, go big or go home! Good luck and be gentle! The stuff is breakable. You can always change parking boot later!

[rad doc]

Did you have to get your srs light reset after removing seat? It says you will need to on the seat removal diy vid. Rather avoid dealer if at all possible! Maybe local indy could reset it if necessary.

[nachob]

Originally Posted by rad doc

Did you have to get your srs light reset after removing seat? It says you will need to on the seat removal diy vid. Rather avoid dealer if at all possible! Maybe local indy could reset it if necessary.

No. I disconnected the battery before disconnecting seat and in reverse I connected seat before reconnecting battery. No SRS lights! Just do it that way. If you disconnect the seat with battery connected you will get an airbag fault light.

[rad doc]

Whew! All done. Thanks for the tips. Took me a bit longer than expected, about 3 hrs total though I went slow to make sure not to damage anything. Stupid shifter knob is the hardest! iDrive didn't complicate it. Just one extra plug. Car is in ridiculous condition for mileage especially now. Next up is complete detail and new clear bra.

[nachob]

Originally Posted by rad doc

Whew! All done. Thanks for the tips. Took me a bit longer than expected, about 3 hrs total though I went slow to make sure not to damage anything. Stupid shifter knob is the hardest! iDrive didn't complicate it. Just one extra plug. Car is in ridiculous condition for mileage especially now. Next up is complete detail and new clear bra.

Boom! Well done!! I feel better now knowing I'm not the only nut to have done this!!! Yes shifter is a pain. Did you disconnect battery before disconnecting seat etc? All good?

[rad doc]

Originally Posted by nachob

Boom! Well done!! I feel better now knowing I'm not the only nut to have done this!!! Yes shifter is a pain. Did you disconnect battery before disconnecting seat etc? All good?

Yep, disconnected battery before removing seat. Glad I pulled seat, made the job much easier. The harbor freight non marring tools are critical. Glad i got those so thanks again.

I was planning on replacing door sill trim but was able to buff out the surface blemishes with my porter cable. No deep scratches. Looks good as new!