No start problem

[Spadil1]

Hey all, was driving high rpms when blew pcv valve (started making loud whistle and running rough). Went home and checked codes to see a VANOS code 2A82 and 2A98 (crankshaft -intake camshaft reference). Pulled vanos’s to clean and put back in and now car won’t start. Any ideas? Thank you

[cerealwars]

Swap your VANOS connectors.

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Swap your VANOS connectors.

I can try but im pretty sure I have them right.. 90 degree connector goes on bottom vanos and other on top right?

[cerealwars]

Looking at my car right now. The harness for my top one leads over to the exhaust side of the head.

The harness for my bottom one leads up by the fuel rail.

The solenoids and their straight-out connectors are identical.

[cerealwars]

2010, N51, 6-speed USDM E82

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

2010, N51, 6-speed USDM E82

Yep.. im n52 but looks about the same.. looks like connectors are good too and plugged in all the way

[cerealwars]

Sounds like you might be needing a new valve cover, maybe the bad PCV is the source for these codes. I guess this doesn't quite explain your no-start condition though. Have you pulled codes since the no-start?

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIRPtA93wxw

Sounds like you might be needing a new valve cover, maybe the bad PCV is the source for these codes. I guess this doesn't quite explain your no-start condition though. Have you pulled codes since the no-start?

Yeah so actually that day the reason I checked the codes was due to PCV valve whistling and running rough (was turning on and off at that point). I had checked codes when I got home to see vanos codes so decided to clean it and that’s when it decided to not turn on anymore. I have actually replaced the valve cover and all gaskets yesterday. And yes I will put the codes I have right now, thanks again!!

[cerealwars]

Yeah no problem dude! Your initial post was yesterday though. So, has your brand new PCV system failed? Still a little hazy on the timeline of when the VC was replaced. Did you have PCV problems before the VC replacement?

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Yeah no problem dude! Your initial post was yesterday though. So, has your brand new PCV system failed? Still a little hazy on the timeline of when the VC was replaced. Did you have PCV problems before the VC replacement?

Haha well I can’t tell if it’s failed because it won’t turn on lol but I don’t think it has. Yes I did have problems before the VC replacement. What I said in my last reply is the correct timeline. Do you think it could be a crankshaft position sensor or both the camshaft sensors? ALSO when doing the VC I did notice the vanos bolts are coming out and broken.. am trying to at least get it to start before taking it to dealer for recall. Thanks

[cerealwars]

Still confused on the timeline, because your initial post made it sound like your problems cropped up yesterday, so you cleaned the solenoids and now you have issues.

But when did you replace the valve cover relative to the steps above?

We're certain these codes are persistent? What happens if you clear the codes, and try again? Which ones come back?

Seems super unlikely that the crank sensor went out, that'd be a hell of a coincidence. Unless you bumped/broke the connector for it or something. Worth inspecting for sure. I'd be retracing your steps and seeing if you missed something else small.

Maybe re-inspect and swap the solenoids if you can. If the main codes you're getting are more closely related to one solenoid circuit, that code should follow wherever you place the solenoid, if the solenoid is the problem.

Not sure if DIY junkyards are around near you, but where I'm at I can pull used solenoids for pretty cheap. Can be handy for troubleshooting. Also beware of aftermarket solenoids, I tried some one time because I couldn't find genuines, and I ended up getting codes because of it.

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Still confused on the timeline, because your initial post made it sound like your problems cropped up yesterday, so you cleaned the solenoids and now you have issues.

But when did you replace the valve cover relative to the steps above?

We're certain these codes are persistent? What happens if you clear the codes, and try again? Which ones come back?

Seems super unlikely that the crank sensor went out, that'd be a hell of a coincidence. Unless you bumped/broke the connector for it or something. Worth inspecting for sure. I'd be retracing your steps and seeing if you missed something else small.

Maybe re-inspect and swap the solenoids if you can. If the main codes you're getting are more closely related to one solenoid circuit, that code should follow wherever you place the solenoid, if the solenoid is the problem.

Not sure if DIY junkyards are around near you, but where I'm at I can pull used solenoids for pretty cheap. Can be handy for troubleshooting. Also beware of aftermarket solenoids, I tried some one time because I couldn't find genuines, and I ended up getting codes because of it.

I’ll break it down.
12/1: driving high rpm, PCV valve whistles and started running rough. Got home, checked codes to see vanos codes so decided to clean those before I tackle pcv valve. Wouldn’t turn on after cleaning vanos.
12/8: VC and gaskets come in so changed it all. Still won’t start.
I did clear the codes after changing VC and the picture I sent above were the ones that came back.

I actually did run to junkyard and got 2 solenoids and swapped those in but still no-start. Also all solenoids make the clicking noise when shaking them to test.

[cerealwars]

Dang, that's a whole lot of stuff that isn't the problem lol.

And thanks, that really clears it up. Yeah, I'd try a crank sensor if it's easy enough. Other suspects are the loose/broken VANOS bolts. Definitely let the dealer handle that one. I tried it myself and had mixed results. I'm certainly not a BMW expert and I hate throwing parts at a car to fix it, but these things are difficult to diagnose sometimes. Hopefully someone wiser chimes in.

[cerealwars]

How about the VANOS check valves/filters?

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Dang, that's a whole lot of stuff that isn't the problem lol.

And thanks, that really clears it up. Yeah, I'd try a crank sensor if it's easy enough. Other suspects are the loose/broken VANOS bolts. Definitely let the dealer handle that one. I tried it myself and had mixed results. I'm certainly not a BMW expert and I hate throwing parts at a car to fix it, but these things are difficult to diagnose sometimes. Hopefully someone wiser chimes in.

Yeah well the VC and gaskets needed to be done anyways since PCV went out.
Vanos solenoids at junkyard were like $20.
I’ll try crank sensor and maybe camshaft sensors? Vanos bolts im going to leave to dealer just wanted to get it running so i can drive it to the dealer lol.

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

How about the VANOS check valves/filters?

Have not cleaned those.. would have to push it out the garage and remove wheel to get to those. Should I try? You think that would create a no-start problem?

[cerealwars]

Seems unlikely, but maybe some gunk was knocked loose and clogged them up? Not sure how dirty your motor is inside. I lucked out and mine has been pretty well taken care of, my filters had basically no particulate clogging them.

You can get to them without going through the wheel well, but it's a bit of a blind operation. I just felt around until I got it. I have seen photos of other owners' check valves and they were NAAAAASTY lol. And the solenoids need good oil Pressure to operate.

I don't have faith that that's gonna fix it, but something free to try in the meantime that certainly wouldn't hurt.

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Seems unlikely, but maybe some gunk was knocked loose and clogged them up? Not sure how dirty your motor is inside. I lucked out and mine has been pretty well taken care of, my filters had basically no particulate clogging them.

You can get to them without going through the wheel well, but it's a bit of a blind operation. I just felt around until I got it. I have seen photos of other owners' check valves and they were NAAAAASTY lol. And the solenoids need good oil Pressure to operate.

I don't have faith that that's gonna fix it, but something free to try in the meantime that certainly wouldn't hurt.

Well, a month later and i got it back from dealer and it now turns on. But is in limp mode.. idle is rough and exhaust is popping. Any ideas? Do you know how to do relearn for adaptations ive heard that might help? Thanks

[cerealwars]

What codes do you pull now?

Also, auto or manual?

[Spadil1]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

What codes do you pull now?

Also, auto or manual?

Well.. at first i pulled these then cleared them… then i took around the neighborhood and car was driving great.. got back home and turned off and back on and idle was super lumpy and CEL came back on.. ran codes again but only abnormal one was o2 sensors were reversed so switched the cables above the valve cover to pic 2 (which seems wrong as I thought the first setup was right) but now runs ALOT better.. still have a little bit lumpy but not as bad as it did before. Am downloading ISTA and tomorrow will take on a few test drives and possibly reset adaptations using ista if needed.

Edit: it’s auto lol

[cerealwars]

Might come back to this tomorrow but here's the correct o2 routing on my n51.

[cerealwars]

Was too tired to think last night, looks like your o2s are correct now, as you had thought.

Saw this thread related to your throttle codes, how's your battery health?

It's funny in that thread they don't realize the n52 throttle body is meant to do nothing.

Did you have any codes at all before this whole debacle? If you had a whole bunch of seemingly unrelated ones pop up out of nowhere, that could mean your battery is due.