BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      09-22-2015, 01:32 AM   #23
6MT_Addict
Captain
6MT_Addict's Avatar
Canada
282
Rep
888
Posts

Drives: 08 135i M Sport 6MT, 15 X3 35i
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Edmonton

iTrader: (2)

Garage List
2008 BMW 135i  [10.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob
Success, of sorts.

So I ordered a second pair of wires from ECS Tuning a week or two ago - it turns out they're used somewhere in the foglight assembly, and the connector is too large to fit in the 12-pin headlight socket housing, and the wire itself is noticeably thicker. But I kept them around, just in case.

Then, while I was searching around for a replacement cap for one of my headlight sockets, I stumbled upon this: a repair kit for said socket housing, which includes not only a replacement socket and cap, but also several metal connectors and a bunch of those rubber insulating plugs. I went ahead and ordered it, since I needed the cap anyway, and figured I could use the metal connectors with the wires I mentioned above to make my own jumper cable that would be guaranteed to fit.

Well, it was a good theory. I fabbed the cable okay, but for whatever reason I just cannot get the connector to seat properly and positively engage the socket housing. It's just loose in there, and does not make a connection as intended. And I know I have the exact right connectors, since it was part of that kit (it turns out they are the same type of connectors I tried the first time around, too).

I finally gave up and clipped the connectors off, stripped off some of the jacket, and shoved exposed copper wire into the socket housing. As soon as I did it, I knew it would work - I could feel the wire "click" into place as it engaged the metal contact inside. I backed the wire up a little so that it wasn't sticking out too much on the other end, and tried to shove the rubber insulating plug into the housing enough to keep the wire from moving around. Soldered the other end and taped everything up and voilą:


I'm not thrilled that I wasn't able to use the actual metal connector as designed, but the thicker wire I used felt pretty darn snug in the socket housing, plus it has the rubber plug to hold it in place, so hopefully it works out. I will probably obsessively check the connection every other week or so until I'm satisfied it's okay, or I'll dig into the repair kit again and try to get the connector to work, I don't know (I just don't get why it won't fit!). Either way, I'm happy enough for now.
Glad to hear you got it working! I'm starting to wonder if the catch in the plastic harness is damaged in some way? Although it seems really odd this would happen with both sides...

It should just slide in a 'click' into place.

Regardless, looks great!!
__________________
2015 Cosmic Blue Metallic Wrapped X3 35i ///M Sport
Full 3M Vinyl Wrap | Flat Black Grilles

Appreciate 0
      05-26-2016, 09:12 PM   #24
benfreshjive
Registered
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: BMW E87
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Taiwan

iTrader: (0)

Smile Install E82 LCI headlight into my 2005 E87 120i

My car's model is BMW 2005 E87 120i, it original has Xeon headlight.
I bought a pair of 2012 E82 LCI headlight, and I want to install this to my car.
There're some problems,
First, the voltage of angel eye and broweye is differ from original one.
Second, how to jump wire to avoid the voltage problem to light up angel and broweye.
Third, I had broken my lighting controller, and costs me a lot

Does anyone could provide some info to me??
Appreciate 0
      06-10-2016, 05:40 PM   #25
Morning Wood
New Member
3
Rep
21
Posts

Drives: 2009 135i
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Charleston, SC

iTrader: (0)

The jump is between the positive wire of the angel eye to the positive brow wire that is attached to the board on the side of the housing. Both wires are black but you'll notice one goes to a bundle that is tie wrapped. The opposite wire is the positive.
Appreciate 0
      01-24-2017, 09:07 PM   #26
EndOfAnEra
Lieutenant Colonel
EndOfAnEra's Avatar
512
Rep
1,705
Posts

Drives: AW X3 35i Msport + S2000
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Largo, FL

iTrader: (13)

Any coding needed for the pre-LCI to LCI xenon ahl swap?
__________________
Appreciate 0
      01-24-2017, 10:30 PM   #27
Bimmer-Bob
!
Bimmer-Bob's Avatar
United_States
692
Rep
3,266
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndOfAnEra View Post
Any coding needed for the pre-LCI to LCI xenon ahl swap?
Nope, just the hardware jump to activate the eyebrow LEDs.
__________________
____________________________
Appreciate 0
      02-13-2017, 07:45 PM   #28
EndOfAnEra
Lieutenant Colonel
EndOfAnEra's Avatar
512
Rep
1,705
Posts

Drives: AW X3 35i Msport + S2000
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Largo, FL

iTrader: (13)

Can I transfer the bulbs/ballasts/etc. from the pre-LCI headlight to the LCI? Both versions are xenon and adaptive.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      02-17-2017, 09:25 PM   #29
Bimmer-Bob
!
Bimmer-Bob's Avatar
United_States
692
Rep
3,266
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndOfAnEra View Post
Can I transfer the bulbs/ballasts/etc. from the pre-LCI headlight to the LCI? Both versions are xenon and adaptive.
Yes, everything is exactly the same other than the additional circuit to light the eyebrows.
__________________
____________________________
Appreciate 0
      03-21-2017, 09:48 PM   #30
EndOfAnEra
Lieutenant Colonel
EndOfAnEra's Avatar
512
Rep
1,705
Posts

Drives: AW X3 35i Msport + S2000
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Largo, FL

iTrader: (13)

Can I use this OEM kit (Part # 61132359991) to add the extra pin wire to the existing plug for the headlights?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=61_4707
__________________
Appreciate 0
      04-24-2017, 01:15 PM   #31
M1chele
Driver Mod
United_States
18
Rep
195
Posts

Drives: 2010 AW/CR 135i
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Las Vegas

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by EndOfAnEra View Post
Can I use this OEM kit (Part # 61132359991) to add the extra pin wire to the existing plug for the headlights?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=61_4707
Did you ever get an answer on this?
__________________
Professional Race Car Driver in the Trans Am Series & owner of Grr Racing www.GrrRacing.com
Appreciate 0
      04-24-2017, 03:51 PM   #32
EndOfAnEra
Lieutenant Colonel
EndOfAnEra's Avatar
512
Rep
1,705
Posts

Drives: AW X3 35i Msport + S2000
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Largo, FL

iTrader: (13)

I used that kit successfully to wire the LCI headlights.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      09-06-2017, 09:47 PM   #33
Zombie1
Colonel
United_States
171
Rep
2,347
Posts

Drives: BMW 135i 2010
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Island long

iTrader: (6)

I'm looking to add LCIs as well glad you made this write up!
__________________
Mods:-Berkexhaust -alpinaB3flash -CobbAP -Cobb FMIC -ER charge pipe tialQ bov -M3 front sway bar -M3 subframe bushings -M3 front upper and lower control arms -M3 guide rods -M3 rear upper control arms -Mfactory LSD -defiv lockdown kit -TC Kline SA coilovers /camber plates- HP rear toe arms

Last edited by Zombie1; 09-07-2017 at 05:35 AM..
Appreciate 0
      11-02-2017, 07:39 PM   #34
tomtuning
JB4 Fan
tomtuning's Avatar
United_States
28
Rep
191
Posts

Drives: 2009 135i
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hope, PA

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AddictsAnonymous View Post
The parts you see in my post above are 61130005199. I can confirm that these are NOT the correct parts to use, but they will work. Each part number is for one wire, so I ordered two. The pins for P/N 61130005199 accept a square shaped 'prong', and the LCI headlights are rectangular 'prongs'. I modified mine to work by bending two of the edges inward to create a rectangular opening and then used force to get it to bend a little more. They did not want to seat properly at first and I may replace them in the long run with different pins. With that said, I've had zero issues since installing them about 1.5 months ago

I looked at this post: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...03&postcount=1 but I never did get around to pricing it out. There is way more than you need, since this is what I assume is a full retrofit harness for halogen to xenon... But you can see what I assume is the correct pins with the black with green stripe and purple with grey stripe wires. Regardless if they are right about $150, I would rather buy $10 worth of over charged wire and modify it to work...

EDIT: Just looked into it, looks to be around $30. Might be worth having a look at what it comes with but the 61130005199 wires will work with a little adjustment



EDIT: As for the other part (61138364566) Pic below.

These are not what you want to use at all for what I described above. These CAN be used to modify the headlights themselves, but I have a real distaste for these cheap bridging connectors. They are much more likely to fail than a soldered connection. Using these would really only save you the soldering step and add A LOT of bulk to the wiring harness. When these get referenced it's often to modify the headlight itself rather than the car's wiring. Again though, it's going to be better to solder it than use these. All other factors aside, a soldered connection will almost never fail. One of these little bridging connectors can be crushed, crack, come apart, etc. Think of soldering as welding, and these little connectors as duct tape. Would you rather duct tape or weld two pieces of steel together?

For me, what it comes down to is this: I know with certainty that a soldered connection will realistically never fail, and I can stand behind my work. If I use one of these cheap connectors, it may work, it may not. With the complexity of electrical systems in cars these days it's often very difficult to know exactly what impact shorting wires can have. Often it's simply just a fuse but it can damage computers. If I know that using one type of connection can lead to a failure then why use it? Soldering is really quite easy to do and for $15 worth of tools and parts, and 3 minutes more work it's just not worth the risk of having something fail down the road. Especially when a new computer + diagnostics + coding can easily run into the 4 figure mark

Why did I do it the way I posted above? Well IF I decide to sell the car, the Pre-LCI headlights have no pin 7, so I don't need to do any mods to the wiring to put it back to 2008 spec. If I modify the headlights, I need to then modify them again to return them to OE spec so that if I sold them to someone with a 2011+ they don't get some kind of bulb error or blown fuse because pin 1 + pin 7 are connected inside the headlight. In addition it's WAY easier to work with the headlight harness than poke around inside the headlight to connect the wires there. It's also WAY easier to troubleshoot the wiring harness than the wires inside the headlight, since you need to pull the headlight before you can investigate.

Dude, I love you. I have not been able to find this information ANYWHERE. You are a lifesaver. Time to go rip my bumper off and break the solder out. +1
__________________
2016 F83 M4 6MT - Silverstone / Marino | BootMod3 Stage 1
Appreciate 1
      09-09-2018, 03:19 AM   #35
tomtuning
JB4 Fan
tomtuning's Avatar
United_States
28
Rep
191
Posts

Drives: 2009 135i
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hope, PA

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AddictsAnonymous View Post
It's really easy. Tap the wire that powers your angel eyes...

You will need:

-X-Acto Knife (box cutter)
-Solder
-soldering pen
-3M/Scotch Electrical tape (3m is just the best stuff out there in my experience. Cheaper tape will lose tack when going through expansion and contraction due to hot/cold. Think how warm that engine compartment gets... I've got about 8 or so years working on vehicle electrical systems as a professional so I do know from experience)
-Diagonal Cutters
-Wire strippers
-small screw driver or pick

1. Remove bumper, old headlights (reference the thread "Lets install Euro headlights" http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219345), cut back existing electrical tape VERY carefully to expose about 3" of wire. Remove the cover on the rear of the harness.

Then... Remove the blue 'plug' in Pin 7 with your pick


2. Pin in the new pin into Pin 7



3. Tap the wire powering AE's (Pin 1). Use the box cutter to carefully cut the sheath off the wire. Slice it along the wire diagonally like you would peel an apple skin off with a knife. Work your way around carefully. Use the diagonal cutters to cut the new eyebrow wire to length, then use the wire strippers to strip about 1/2" off. Twist the end in your fingers to get a nice braid then wrap it around the AE wire.



4. Solder. Use soldering pen + solder. Youtube is your friend if you don't know how...



5. Tape the connection with electrical tape.

6. Tape the bundle of wire back together. Make sure all tape is taped on TIGHTLY. Otherwise it will tend to come off over time. If you are anal a zip tie around the bundle of wire where your electrical tape ended will prevent it from ever coming off.


7. Install new AE and Adaptive headlight ballasts


8. Test
Just wanted to say thanks a ton for this guide. I did the conversion about a year ago and with my terrible soldering skills (tapped the brows to the DTRLs as you did) it's still holding up very well today! Appreciate the excellent photos and guide quality.
Appreciate 0
      01-02-2021, 11:46 PM   #36
Pepppie
Private First Class
Pepppie's Avatar
Netherlands
82
Rep
154
Posts

Drives: i20
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Amsterdam

iTrader: (0)

I have a E88 LCI (EarPods 2011, the version with the large mirrors) with the yellow angel eyes without brows. Are the headlights plug and play (because I have a LCI) or do I still need to change the wiring?
Appreciate 0
      05-05-2022, 05:22 PM   #37
sims_drk
New Member
Morocco
0
Rep
9
Posts

Drives: Bmw 135i
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Morocco

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
Success, of sorts.

So I ordered a second pair of wires from ECS Tuning a week or two ago - it turns out they're used somewhere in the foglight assembly, and the connector is too large to fit in the 12-pin headlight socket housing, and the wire itself is noticeably thicker. But I kept them around, just in case.

Then, while I was searching around for a replacement cap for one of my headlight sockets, I stumbled upon this: a repair kit for said socket housing, which includes not only a replacement socket and cap, but also several metal connectors and a bunch of those rubber insulating plugs. I went ahead and ordered it, since I needed the cap anyway, and figured I could use the metal connectors with the wires I mentioned above to make my own jumper cable that would be guaranteed to fit.

Well, it was a good theory. I fabbed the cable okay, but for whatever reason I just cannot get the connector to seat properly and positively engage the socket housing. It's just loose in there, and does not make a connection as intended. And I know I have the exact right connectors, since it was part of that kit (it turns out they are the same type of connectors I tried the first time around, too).

I finally gave up and clipped the connectors off, stripped off some of the jacket, and shoved exposed copper wire into the socket housing. As soon as I did it, I knew it would work - I could feel the wire "click" into place as it engaged the metal contact inside. I backed the wire up a little so that it wasn't sticking out too much on the other end, and tried to shove the rubber insulating plug into the housing enough to keep the wire from moving around. Soldered the other end and taped everything up and voilą:


I'm not thrilled that I wasn't able to use the actual metal connector as designed, but the thicker wire I used felt pretty darn snug in the socket housing, plus it has the rubber plug to hold it in place, so hopefully it works out. I will probably obsessively check the connection every other week or so until I'm satisfied it's okay, or I'll dig into the repair kit again and try to get the connector to work, I don't know (I just don't get why it won't fit!). Either way, I'm happy enough for now.
:19 PM Today
Hello I have a 2008 pre lci 135i bi xenon headlight " without eyebrows " and want to upgrade to the lci bi xenon headlight " with eyebrow " found the headlighrs on ebay but not the same part numbers . Any help please . The seller says i need to replace the car unit control and do coding . What do you think ? Thanks
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:29 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST