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      06-08-2020, 09:40 PM   #23
Tut4u2
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Originally Posted by Bubbles View Post
Good info, what is your plan for the interior?
I will get around to writing an update shortly, but I swapped over the E90 dash and center console. I will pick up E92 M3 seats and throw those in there as well.
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      07-07-2020, 07:37 PM   #24
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Getting the car from paint left a lot to be desired and in hindsight I would have chosen a different painter. There’s nothing wrong with the paint, but given the fact that I had to wet sand myself left a sour taste in my mouth; not to mention I had to get some areas redone. Lastly, the amount of time it spent getting paint and body work was ridiculous.

The final assembly of the car was straight-forward, but time consuming like everything else with this project. I installed the Bilstein shocks and replaced the usual wear items of struts mounts and bushings. Secondly, I replaced the rear bushing in the control arm since it was torn up and I was in there anyways. Next I installed the Stoptech calipers and the fender liners. The rear bottom of the front fender liner cannot be used since the E9X subframe has that extra wing. For the rear liners, I used the E8X liners as they fit pretty well albeit with a gap. I will eventually grab the one from the 1M, but I will need to modify those since I didn’t cut the OEM fender all the way, but that minor. The trickiest part had to do with the windshield washer tank since it was too long and hitting the front passenger EDC sensor. I shopped the tank, sealed it up, and it went in smoothly.

Underneath, all shielding on the side was retained along with the E8X brace. I have seen some people fit the E9X brace, but I didn’t see a need. To wrap up underneath, I installed an MPorium aluminum belly pan since it allows for proper ducting of the engine oil cooler.

For the exhaust, I installed the ACM Test Pipes using v-bands so I could swap out the OEM cats since I’m not a fan of the catless fumes. I had 2 AR25 resonators welded in as well so help with the drone. Lastly, the catback is v-banded as well so everything can be taken off in pieces.

I will throw pictures of underneath the car shortly.

Interior wise, I installed the Bavsound Speakers and added Logic7 subwoofers. I’m on the fence about installing an amp, but the audio is much improved over the OEM setup. I installed a rear view camera and an Android HU as well. I primarily installed the HU for the camera as the rest of the features don’t mean much. Audio wise, playing music over the Android HU is garbage so I’m plugging into the AUX port and using the OEM CCC interface; not ideal but it works. A plus of the Android HU is that I have navigation now thats current and can work offline if I don’t have my hotspot on. The biggest difference in the interior is that I swapped over the E9x dash and center console. I will install the E9x M3 seats eventually or put in a set of STATUS seats I have in the basement, but for now the E8X sport seats suffice. I installed some extended paddles shifters and a red start and M button.

The build is 99% complete. I’m replacing my throttle body actuators tomorrow (I should have done it while the car was apart), installing a different spoiler, and one more performance mod.












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      07-08-2020, 08:24 AM   #25
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It's been said, and should be assumed, but - this is awesome! Thanks for the write-up, so much fun to read. I just killed a half hour at work, lol. Thanks again.

By the way - is your profession automotive related? I'm a DIY'er and know my way around cars and engines, but I would never even consider this kind of work. Just curious if it's a hobby or if you're like a BMW mechanic or something. Maybe you said already and I missed it.
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      07-08-2020, 08:50 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
It's been said, and should be assumed, but - this is awesome! Thanks for the write-up, so much fun to read. I just killed a half hour at work, lol. Thanks again.

By the way - is your profession automotive related? I'm a DIY'er and know my way around cars and engines, but I would never even consider this kind of work. Just curious if it's a hobby or if you're like a BMW mechanic or something. Maybe you said already and I missed it.
Thanks! My background/career is in finance and economics; nothing automotive related.
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      07-09-2020, 01:47 PM   #27
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Posting some pictures of the bottom. I will post some better pictures when I get the car on an actual lift. In short, all the panels underneath and installed; this includes the E9X M3 DCT cover, engine pan, mporium undertray, the 2 side covers, and all heat shields. You can also see the v-banded exhaust, resonators, and Y merger.









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      07-18-2020, 09:34 PM   #28
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Fantastic, certainly a one of kind ride that you can drive daily. I hope I can attempt this at some point, the only thing I would change is make it a 6mt. Enjoy it.
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      07-19-2020, 11:04 AM   #29
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Enjoyed reading this and clever solutions to get the job done!
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      09-11-2020, 08:51 PM   #30
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Hard to believe its been 2 months since the last update, but I had been making changes slowly and waiting to complete them prior to posting. Quick notes:
Not sure if I mentioned previously, but I intended on tracking the car and had purchased the newer style power steering reservoir for a future install. However, the timeline moved up, I ended having to drain my power steering fluid for an unrelated issue so I went ahead and replaced the reservoir. It is an easy but messy job. The good news is that after a couple of track days, the fluid hasn’t overflowed.
I added Ground Control Camber plates to get some extra camber up front. After 5 alignments I finally found settings that I’m comfortable with.
I replaced my M4 Style spoiler with a CF one. Its a nice switch as it matches the rest of the carbon fiber accents on the car, but I prefer the non-CF version since it has more material on the bottom.
Speaking of CF, I replaced the plenum with an Eventuri CF unit. This thing makes the car have one hell of a growl. The intake noise is louder than the exhaust. I have some compare videos on the m3post eventuri review thread.
I rewrapped the steering wheel. It is a tedious process, and I would suggest buying a re-wrapped wheel from one of the vendors online, but the end result is good for now. The wheel has some extra girth and feels great in the hands.
Added M3 style mirror caps. The genuine 1M mirrors are ~$800 and while they are nice, I don’t think they are worth it. Secondly, the pre-LCI mirror with the small cap flow well with the car. I found these caps on Aliexpress for ~$100 and bought them as an impulse buy. Originally, I was going to paint match them to the car, but I think they look nice as is; they match the shadowline trim perfectly.
As mentioned previously, I did a couple of track days in the car, and my biggest complaint is the seats. Despite having the sport seats, they don’t hold me in that well at all. Some of that might be because I haven’t tracked a car in the past decade without a proper bucket seat, and I have a smaller frame so while the bolsters hold me in, I would still have to brace my legs. I found a good deal on a seat of schroth harnesses, and I already had a seat of Status Racing seats from one of my friends so I paired the two and installed them using krause krey mounts.

With that being said, I will say that I consider the car 100% done. The car already felt great on the street, but on track it is a lot of fun. Since the donor car was an E93, I have the thicker sways bars and even the smaller E82 the car is quite neutral and rotates well. The car is on the softer side for track duty, but I don’t see myself going to coilovers. If I keep the car, I would go with a square setup, but other than that it is an absolute joy. Lastly, the car was picked up for a story in the NCC BMW CCA.








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      09-15-2020, 08:52 AM   #31
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That's awesome. Do the holes in the M3 style hood line up with the snorkel on the M3 airbox?
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      09-15-2020, 10:35 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
That's awesome. Do the holes in the M3 style hood line up with the snorkel on the M3 airbox?
They sure do! However, the majority of the air coming into the air box is via the opening in the front bumper; the hood and front grill inlets are secondary; this is how its designed from the factory on the stock M3 as well.
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      09-15-2020, 03:38 PM   #33
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Awesome, would love to drop in an S65 into my 128i, but don't like massive projects, so I'll enjoy vicariously. Amazing job. Videos please!
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      09-16-2020, 02:44 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tut4u2 View Post
They sure do! However, the majority of the air coming into the air box is via the opening in the front bumper; the hood and front grill inlets are secondary; this is how its designed from the factory on the stock M3 as well.
That's cool, I'm actually extremely surprised. I'm in the process of S65 swapping my 135 after the N55 popped and was curious how to get the most cold air into the stock box.
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      09-16-2020, 09:10 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
That's cool, I'm actually extremely surprised. I'm in the process of S65 swapping my 135 after the N55 popped and was curious how to get the most cold air into the stock box.
The OEM hood fits the intake plenum so there's no need to upgrade unless you want the look.
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      09-17-2020, 03:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tut4u2 View Post
The OEM hood fits the intake plenum so there's no need to upgrade unless you want the look.
Or the fresh air intake...

My goal is to have a stock looking 135 though so I probably wont, more just curious.
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      01-03-2021, 01:45 PM   #37
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Tut4u2 Can you elaborate a bit on the coding process you had to do? Did you keep the DME/CAS/Key from the M3 together and zeroize the miles and VIN on them or zeroize the DME and marry it to the CAS from the 1 series? I see you used everything but the NRF from the M3, did you have to write the VIN and code parameters or something more involved?

I have my 1 series completely torn down and in the process of sourcing an M3 donor so I'm trying to get as many of my ducks in a row as possible.
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      01-03-2021, 07:34 PM   #38
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Wow... Absolutely stunning!
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      01-04-2021, 09:15 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
Tut4u2 Can you elaborate a bit on the coding process you had to do? Did you keep the DME/CAS/Key from the M3 together and zeroize the miles and VIN on them or zeroize the DME and marry it to the CAS from the 1 series? I see you used everything but the NRF from the M3, did you have to write the VIN and code parameters or something more involved?
The DME, CAS, and Key are a matched set and they all need to remain together in order for the car to run; consequently, I re-used all 3 from the donor M3. Even if you zero out the cluster, it will get the mileage from the DME. If you want the mileage to match your chassis, you can send out the DME and CAS to have the VIN re-written, but you won't find people that advertise the service given the associated legal issues.

I did find a vendor in the US that would do it, but didn't really care for it, because when it comes time to sell the car, I doubt a prospective buyer would fuss over a 20k mile difference given everything else that's been done to the car. If the mileage is a deal breaker then its not the right buyer for the car.

You can write the VIN to all other modules via WINKFP then code them to the chassis as required. For example, you can code the NFRM or ABG modules to VIN X and code it for the hardware present in VIN Y. I did this for the PDC sensors since the E8X is shorter than the E9X so the distances are slightly different.

I can help you out with the coding via TeamViewer or just send me what you want coded and I can tell you what you need to check/uncheck in the .MAN fie.
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      01-04-2021, 10:08 AM   #40
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Cool, that's pretty much what I figured. I have quite a bit of coding experience but I'll certainly let you know if I have questions. I think I read something somewhere on how to change the vehicle code in modules, but not sure if that really matters all that much.

The issue I have with mileage is my chassis has around 115,000 miles and I'm looking at donors with half that. So, if I just stick 50,000 miles parts on a 115,000 mile car(VIN) I'm going to be in hot water. I'm not sure if there's a legal process in NY to "reset" the odometer, but I'll look into that too.

EDIT: Just bought a 52,000 mile donor.

Last edited by amg6975; 01-04-2021 at 10:22 AM..
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      01-04-2021, 11:20 AM   #41
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very nice, i too own a 1M clone albiet i kept my n54 and went pure stage 2. i always wished i could afford to put the v8 in there. good job!
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      01-04-2021, 12:24 PM   #42
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very nice, i too own a 1M clone albiet i kept my n54 and went pure stage 2. i always wished i could afford to put the v8 in there. good job!
Thanks. My N55 spun a rod bearing so rather than fix it or get a junk yard motor I just put that money towards this. Hoping for a much more reliable and drivable track weapon. I'm going to leave the stock 135 body alone for now, should be quite a surprise when it makes V8 noises.
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      01-05-2021, 06:13 PM   #43
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Going up in miles is much easier! Just code the miles in the cluster and you're good. You'll have the tamper dot though.

If you're doing the body conversion too, I have some extra new oem pieces that I'll let go for cheap.
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      01-07-2021, 11:28 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tut4u2 View Post
Going up in miles is much easier! Just code the miles in the cluster and you're good. You'll have the tamper dot though.

If you're doing the body conversion too, I have some extra new oem pieces that I'll let go for cheap.
No body conversion yet, thanks though. I'm also going way down in miles. 116,000 to 52,xxx. I think I can just leave everything at 52k and fill out an odometer disclosure statement if I decide to sell it in the next year. After 2022 it'll be exempt anyway since it'll be 10 years old.
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