Can't register 2010 vehicle in BMW USA.com

[Absorber]

I made an appointment with my CA to go in and do all the paperwork for my car on the morning of the 16th. It's going to be a loooong month...

[2thDoc]

Picked it up today! Wooooot!!!!

Man, I'm glad I've got a V1...this thing is eeeeassyy to go fast...

[BoostedTerp]

Mine just entered production today, I'll be heading overseas in 2 weeks to go get it!

[hoss]

Does anybody else on the west coast have a car in transit? My CA isn't getting back to me about what ship its on.

[mattssi]

For west coast deliveries, the shipping company's website (NYK Lines) is http://www2.nykline.com/home/index.html. You can also use http://www.dbh.de/index.php?id=151&L=0
to track the departure of your ship from Bremerhaven to Port Hueneme. Apparently NYK Line doesn't make it easy to find your ship. After that, if you want to know when your ship is planning to dock in San Diego, San Diego Marine Information Systems will give you the arrival schedule for Port Hueneme (west coast delivery) at
http://www.sdmis.org/schedule/

[mineo77]

Originally Posted by mattssi

For west coast deliveries, the shipping company's website (NYK Lines) is http://www2.nykline.com/home/index.html. You can also use http://www.dbh.de/index.php?id=151&L=0
to track the departure of your ship from Bremerhaven to Port Hueneme. Apparently NYK Line doesn't make it easy to find your ship. After that, if you want to know when your ship is planning to dock in San Diego, San Diego Marine Information Systems will give you the arrival schedule for Port Hueneme (west coast delivery) at
http://www.sdmis.org/schedule/

I have a west coast delivery and it is on WW, not NYK lines. When is did your car leave Bremerhaven?

[mattssi]

Oh, cool. The details of the WW ship are in my signature. The WW AIDA just docked in NYC It should be about 10 days until I get my vert! woo hoo.

http://schedule.2wglobal.com/AppSche...esselSearch.do
http://www.sailwx.info/shiptrack/shi...html?call=SBLI

[hoss]

Originally Posted by mineo77

I have a west coast delivery and it is on WW, not NYK lines. When is did your car leave Bremerhaven?

Well... the 800 number said "In Transit" as of 9/22, but the website just finally updated to say In Route for about 2 days now.

[mineo77]

Originally Posted by hoss

Well... the 800 number said "In Transit" as of 9/22, but the website just finally updated to say In Route for about 2 days now.

Below is the only schedule i found on WW which departed 9/23..
BREMERHAVEN 23/09/2009 PORT HUENEME, CA 16/10/2009

Ship: AIDA ED939-ADA

could be another shipping line and i also could have not searched all the schedules enough

[mineo77]

anyway...average shipping time from germany to LA is 21-23 days..fyi

[jwardell]

Picked up my 128 this morning! A horrible day to take delivery, it poured all day. We made several stops, every time we'd get in and the windows would fog within seconds. Bad enough when you're not used to this newfangled car.
Once i was home I spent a good 7 hours in the garage, learning and setting every feature, and ripping apart most of the dashboard to wire in my accessories! Swearing at that damn fuse panel way over on the passenger side!

I'l have some photos soon.

[Absorber]

Originally Posted by jwardell

Picked up my 128 this morning! A horrible day to take delivery, it poured all day. We made several stops, every time we'd get in and the windows would fog within seconds. Bad enough when you're not used to this newfangled car.
Once i was home I spent a good 7 hours in the garage, learning and setting every feature, and ripping apart most of the dashboard to wire in my accessories! Swearing at that damn fuse panel way over on the passenger side!

I'l have some photos soon.

Which accessories did you install that required you to get behind the dash? Post pics of the installs!

[Absorber]

Waiting sucks.

[BoostedTerp]

I'm fairly sure my dealer is trying to screw me now by offering a .0029 money factor on a 3 year lease for my ED 135 coming up this month. Any input from someone who recently leased? I know a few of you guys have already worked out the terms.

[mineo77]

Originally Posted by BoostedTerp

I'm fairly sure my dealer is trying to screw me now by offering a .0029 money factor on a 3 year lease for my ED 135 coming up this month. Any input from someone who recently leased? I know a few of you guys have already worked out the terms.

here is all the info you need about leasing:

http://www.carbuyingtips.com/lease.htm

It usually (not always, but usually) more $$$ in the long run to lease.

Money Factor:A number used to calculate finance charges (interest) for your monthly payment. To get the APR, multiply the money factor by 2,400. For example, a money factor of .003333, yields an interest rate of (.003333*2400) = 8%. If you were unaware of the 2400, how could you check their numbers? This is how they hide extras, and slip in credit life insurance, because you can't tell what makes up your monthly payment, or even how to calculate it, until now. When converting money factor to APR, it should at least be comparable to, or lower than local new car loan interest rates. Like interest, the lower the money factor, the lower your monthly payments. Ford has a strange way of calculating money factor that is different from the rest of the industry.

[jwardell]

Originally Posted by Absorber

Which accessories did you install that required you to get behind the dash? Post pics of the installs!

Most of it was to wire in radar detector, including remote display, then to run its power wire behind the center stack and to the fuse panel. Waiting for the portable navigation bracket to come in and I'll be doing it all again to install that to use with my nav. Also replaced trim pieces with the glacier aluminum parts. Pretty typical of me to have a car in pieces within hours of getting it. I did take some pictures but I'm far behind on editing/posting things.
Next up: rear fog switch, replace the horrible shift knob, mud guards, and snow tires.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by Absorber

I made an appointment with my CA to go in and do all the paperwork for my car on the morning of the 16th. It's going to be a loooong month...

Make sure you get the money factor and residual up front so that you can do your own calculations.

Also remember that the low MF's listed on these websites is the "buy rate", which you should ask for and demand if your credit score is good.
Just like a loan, the money factor is the interest on the money they are leasing the car to you for. Get the MF buy rate info and tell them that's why you want it to be.

A lease is a fairly simple concept once you understand what's happening on what the calculation is really about. Basically, you are "buying/owning" the car for the term agreed upon such as 24 mth's or 36 mths.
The cost to own/lease the car is the depreciation that will occur during your ownership. The MF is the interest rate on that monetary figure.
So, let's say your car has an MSRP of 40k and you negotiate a "purchase price" of 37k. Great. Now, if the residual (depreciation) is say 60% for 12k miles per year for 3 yrs, then you are buying this car for 3 yrs at a cost of
40% of 40k, yes the MSRP NOT the negotiated price.
So, the cost is 16k plus the MF/interest rate. You're buying/leasing the car for 16k or 40% of it's initial MSRP, as that is how much it will depreciate. You will pay the depreciation plus the interest on that money.
That's why getting options on leases is so great. You're getting the options at only a 40% cost.
If the option is $1000, you're getting it for $400 for 3yrs.

You can see why a high residual makes for a low lease payment. A car that holds greater value after it's lease term will mathematically cost less per month due to it's high residual. So, if you negotiate an even lower purchase price from MSRP, the it's even sweeter, as residual is still based on the MSRP not the negotiated price.
I got $500 over actual invoice, which came to $250 above actual invoice as I got them to throw in a full set of rubber mats and a full set of mudguards that I installed myself.
The 1 is selling well, but you should still be able to get $500 over BMW invoice.
If you use edmunds.com, make sure to add nearly $500 more to their listed invoice to get a better idea of what actual BMW invoice will be.

Back to the lease:
Look at that depreciation as the cost of the car for your term period.
The MF is the interest on that money/loan, for the 3yrs. It's just like buying the car at 16k for 3 yrs at the MF interest rate.
That's how a lease can cost less than a full loan purchase.

Remember also, that different states tax leases differently.
For example, in Illinois you will pay tax on the FULL selling/negotiated price, just as if you were buying it at that price. The tax can be rolled into the lease, just like in a loan purchase. This sucks for people in those states as it's an extra cost compared to how other states do it.
For example, in Indiana, you do NOT pay the full tax on the selling price.
You only pay the state sales tax on the monthly payment, so you're only taxed on the portion you use, or the depreciation of the car for the term period.

Make sure you know how your state handles sales tax on a lease so that you can decide how to pay it. I for one do NOT like to pay interest on tax.
So, I like to pay the sales tax, acquisition fee, and plates up front.
That way I'm not paying interest on taxes and fees.
For me, I didn't have to pay full tax in my state, so I just paid the acquisition fee and plates in cash.

People say don't put money down on a lease, and that's solid advice.
The ONLY reason you might consider putting money down is that you can save a few bucks by not having to pay interest on that money.
WARNING: Many states have gotten wise to this, and if you opt to put some money down on your lease, you could get hit with state sales tax on that money, so your interest savings become very little. Consider not putting any money down on the cost of the car.

There is also one other littel "trick" that BMW allows to help lower your money factor and thus lowering your interest. It's done by giving BMW multiple security deposits. For each deposit above the the 1st, the MF is lowered by .00007. You are allowed up to 7 additional security deposits for a total MF reduction of .00049.
Using the 2400 calculation, that's 2400 X .00049= 1.18% reduction in interest.
Get the LOWEST "buy rate" MF first before you tell them you may do multiple deposits.

Is mult deposit worth it? Well, you have to decide for yourself how much money you are willing to tie up for your lease term, and if you think you can make a greater interest gain than the 1.18%
Right now, my bank is only giving less than .5% on savings on $50k and up.
So, if you don't think your money will do better than 1.18% over the 36 month term, then it might be worth it.
But, consider a 36 month CD that could pay 2% or more on that money locked into a CD for the same duration.
How much money is this?
Let's use $600 per deposit, as BMW goes to the nearest $50. If you monthly payment would be $560 your security dep would be $600.
So, 600 X 7= $4200 that BMW holds for 36 months for the 1.18% lower interest rate. I would only do this if you have the money, and if you don't think you can get a better rate in a savings, CD, or investment, and if you really need the lower monthly payment.
But, if you've got $4200 extra for security deps, then you probably don't need the lower monthly. But, conditions vary and peoples needs vary too.

Here's a great place for MF and residuals:
http://www.leasecompare.com/auto_lea...forum.php?f=18

And an excellent lease calculator:
http://www.leaseguide.com/calc.htm

Use those 2 sites and you'll have the numbers before you get to the dealer.
You'll know exactly what it will cost you based on what you want to do and how you want to handle taxes, fees, etc...
Simply follow the calculator instructions and questions.
If you need help, just give me your MSRP, negotiated price, residual, term, MF, and tax rate and method in your state.

Here are the 1 series lease numbers:
These are 15k miles per year numbers.
For 12k ADD 2% to the residual
For 10k ADD 3%
So a 2010 135 coupe at 12k miles per year would be
61% residual at .00230 MF (5.52%)
These rates are really good. The MF is a bit high, but the residuals are REALLY great and help offset the MF.
2010 MODELS

2010 BMW 128i Coupe
24 Month – Residual 66% of MSRP – .00225 Base Rate
36 Month – Residual 58% of MSRP – .00225 Base Rate
48 Month – Residual 46% of MSRP – .00255 Base Rate
60 Month – Residual 38% of MSRP – .00255 Base Rate

2010 BMW 128i Convertible
24 Month – Residual 68% of MSRP – .00250 Base Rate
36 Month – Residual 60% of MSRP – .00250 Base Rate
48 Month – Residual 46% of MSRP – .00255 Base Rate
60 Month – Residual 39% of MSRP – .00255 Base Rate

2010 BMW 135i Coupe
24 Month – Residual 65% of MSRP – .00230 Base Rate
36 Month – Residual 59% of MSRP – .00230 Base Rate
48 Month – Residual 47% of MSRP – .00255 Base Rate
60 Month – Residual 39% of MSRP – .00255 Base Rate

2010 BMW 135i Convertible
24 Month – Residual 66% of MSRP – .00250 Base Rate
36 Month – Residual 59% of MSRP – .00250 Base Rate
48 Month – Residual 45% of MSRP – .00255 Base Rate
60 Month – Residual 37% of MSRP – .00255 Base Rate

DO NOT sign anything until you know every aspect of your lease, and are comfortable with what's going on. If you don't understand then ask questions until you do.
If your credit is good and BMW approved you, the push to get the buy/base rate. If you dealer wants to make some money on the MF, which they can do, it's your decision if you want to do it. But, I wouldn't.
They can make money on the car sale and on the great reviews you'll give them.

My 2009 135i
MSRP $41725
Monthly, includes 7% sales tax= $551

I could have done a loan purchase at 2.9%
To get the same monthly I would have to have put down a bit more than $10k, and paid the tax and registration fees up front.
If I would have sold my 1 after 3yrs, assuming I could sell it for BMW's claimed residual, I would have been ahead by about a bit more than $1000.
However, that's ASSUMING that I could sell it for the residual BMW claimed. I highly doubt I could get what BMW will get on the lot.
So, overall I would be closer to even.
Keeping it for 5yrs at that low interest rate is where it pays off.
But, for me that means driving the same car for 5yrs and then hoping it has enough resale value.
By leasing, I keep my money in the bank or invested, and I drive a new car with full maintenance for the term, and then give it back to BMW and they can worry about selling it while I get a NEW car.
Some say, "yeah, but you never get to own the or a car."
Really? I say, I get to own and drive a new car every 3 years, don't have to worry about what happens after the 4/50k warranty is gone for that last year, and it only cost a bit more to have that option.
I really like leasing, at least on cars like the BMW with high residuals, or Audi who have low MF's due to their lower residuals.

Run the numbers and decide for yourself I say. But, if one has never calculated all the factors, then they really don't know and are just repeating what they've heard.

[mattssi]

Excellent advice, and ditto on the http://www.leaseguide.com/calc.htm site!

[mineo77]

Hell Ya!!! My boat is just off shore from San Diego!! Dock in the Port later today / early tomorrow. Then another painful week of waiting!!!

[mattssi]

My car is at the prep center, dealer said it is scheduled to arrive at the dealership on Saturday! Sweet. Just a week for it to be delivered to my door step!

[hoss]

Looks like mine is aboard the Guardian Leader. Is anybody else's on this ship? It looks like it will be in San Diego and then Oxnard on 10/24.

[mattssi]

Surprised no one has mentioned the acquisition fee for a lease. I just got my paper work, and what do you know - another $925 for an acquisition fee. So ridiculous. And the $350 disposition fee, Jesus!