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      01-15-2017, 11:40 PM   #67
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Once again, my oil had reached the newly imposed 5,000 mile limit and called to be replaced. Along with my oil change, I also wanted to replace the manual transmission fluid given the fact I'd just clicked over the 70,000 mark. Chances are that the fluid in the transmission before the change was the original manufacturer's fill from 2008.

Supplies for these two tasks included 7 liters of OEM oil, the appropriate oil filter and o-rings, Redline D4 ATF fluid, plastic tubing, and the 8mm hex to remove the transmission fill plugs.



A few things to note:
  • Love the BMS oil filter removal tool -- makes oil changes simple and clean.
  • The Dimple Plug that I had used in the oil pan for the past 5,000 miles had zero metal particles when removed.
  • Only 2,000 miles after last cleaning out the Mishimoto OCC connected to the external RB PCV system, I decided to play it safe and check again. Sure enough, the can was equally as full as the picture I posted a few weeks back and definitely warranted emptying again. Perhaps weekly checks are necessary during the cold weather and condensation.
  • The BMS OCC is still bone dry after being installed 10,000 miles ago. As I've mentioned before though, only been WOT probably 4-5 times in that period. Just a lot of commutes to work and back. Perhaps this is the reason as I've triple checked my installation and everything looks good.
  • The old fluid drained out very quickly because of the viscosity and was definitely dark in color.
  • When installing the new Redline fluid using the gravity fed method, I made a huge (smelly) mess. The 3/8" ID plastic tubing didn't fit properly inside any of the funnels I had, which made taping the connection shut with duct tape a pain. It also took considerably long than I anticipated as I waited for the new fluid to slowly drain from the funnel down the tubing and into the transmission upper fill plug.
  • First impressions are smoother engagement of gears when cold and less effort when shifting. I went with this over the other Redline options for that very reason. I see a large range of temperatures over the course of 12 months and my car has to brave the elements. The D4 ATF seemed to fit the bill more than their other options.



When changing the oil on two N54s at once (also did my 535i that just hit 185,000 miles), the liters of oil really add up.



Nothing on the docket for the rest of the winter. Just planning on enjoying and driving the car for the next few months, hopefully with no issues!
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      01-22-2017, 02:42 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgensen54 View Post
Great thread. Especially grateful for your tedious efforts in choosing AND installing your parts. You've sold me on the external PCV and more than likely a similar dual-OCC setup!

I appreciate you following along. I'm very pleased with every single aftermarket part I've installed on the car thus far, especially the external PVC setup. It's been collecting a ton of blow-by since installing -- I highly recommend picking one up.

I still want to address the possibility of finding a better mounting solution than the current BMS strut bar brackets I have; now more than ever considering the frequency in which I've been dumping the Mishimoto OCC.

That will more than likely be my winter project along with collecting parts for replacing the water pump, thermostat, coolant, brakes, rotors, and pads.
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      01-31-2017, 04:39 PM   #69
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chadillac2000 Please note the new containers for the oil ARE NOT QUARTS. They are ONE LITER each! They are very similar in size but it's still not the same, just be careful you don't overfill

Don't know why BMW made this change it's stupid as hell
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      01-31-2017, 05:03 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matticus91 View Post
chadillac2000 Please note the new containers for the oil ARE NOT QUARTS. They are ONE LITER each! They are very similar in size but it's still not the same, just be careful you don't overfill

Don't know why BMW made this change it's stupid as hell
I've always purchased the full oil change kit from ECS Tuning, so never even noticed until you pointed it out. Looks like I've been putting about 7.4 quarts in my car since the change without even knowing.

I'll probably leave about 1/3 of the 7th bottle remaining from here on out when doing oil changes. I've been contemplating changing engine oils all together, so this may speed up that decision. Thanks for the heads up!
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      01-31-2017, 09:51 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000 View Post
I've always purchased the full oil change kit from ECS Tuning, so never even noticed until you pointed it out. Looks like I've been putting about 7.4 quarts in my car since the change without even knowing.

I'll probably leave about 1/3 of the 7th bottle remaining from here on out when doing oil changes. I've been contemplating changing engine oils all together, so this may speed up that decision. Thanks for the heads up!
No problem I didn't realize until my dealership told me
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      02-01-2017, 12:12 PM   #72
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This past week I finally bit the bullet and, despite having zero issues thus far with my water pump at nearly 72,000 miles of use, purchased a replacement Continental water pump, e-thermostat, and a gallon of BMW branded coolant. While it's never fun paying $500+ for preventative maintenance, especially when the parts are still fully functional, I forced myself to be realistic about my existing pump's lifespan. Even though my car almost exclusively sees highway expeditions of over 50 miles at a clip, there's no reason to think that I will get a ton more usage before I get the dreaded overheating warning.

When the water pump went out around 70,000 miles on my 535i (before the days of Uber/Lyft), I was on the way to an appointment, had no alternative transportation, and had my entire day ruined.

The next step is planning when to do the job. I'd love to wait until Spring when I can coincide this with tearing down the car for the full paint correction I've been plotting, but at my current mileage the pump is a ticking time bomb until it fails and leaves me stranded. While this is something I'll continue to ponder, Winston and I are glad to have the parts on hand just in case.

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      02-01-2017, 01:49 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000 View Post
While this is something I'll continue to ponder, Winston and I are glad to have the parts on hand just in case.
It's really a toss-up. At your mileage it could happen any moment but if you're planning to do some major work soon (within the next 1k miles) anyway I'd try to wait till then. Good luck either way!
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      02-01-2017, 03:09 PM   #74
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Quote:
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Winston and I are glad to have the parts on hand just in case.
Winston looks like a valuable assistant (or at least a good listener).
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      02-01-2017, 10:55 PM   #75
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I finally got around to doing something earlier today that I'd been meaning to do ever since purchasing the car last year -- and that was making the dreaded trip to the local dealership. Unlike most other times, this wasn't for any issue with my own car, or because I wanted to browse the inventory. I'd read a few times prior that the service department could read your key fob in order pull all service records for a vehicle.

This information would let me know what exactly had been attended to by BMW in the car's first few years, as well as confirming what the prior owner claimed had been replaced.

I happened to be assisted by someone who proved to be very helpful in gathering this information for me, and although I wasn't allowed to keep a printed copy of the information, she did allow me to snap a picture with my phone to put with my records. I quickly thanked her and hit the road.

This snapshot from BMW, coupled with a CarFax I recently pulled, gives me most of the complete history of the 135i I bought 8 years after it had been sold new after previously relying solely on the word of the previous owner.








Here is a time line of events and things I found noteworthy:
  • Purchased new in Florida by the first owner, where it was kept and barely driven apparently.
  • From October 28th, 2008 until May 11th, 2010, the car was driven less than 5,000 miles.
  • HPFP and injectors (not sure of how many) were replaced in March of 2011 with 6,199 miles on the odometer, a very low mileage to have problems with those already (could show indication that early injectors failed because of time and not mileage).
  • Third brake light needed replacing for the first time in September of 2011 with 7,501 miles.
  • The first owner held the car for a little over three years, and sold it to the second owner (whom I purchased from).
  • The second owner, just as he had told me, purchased the car from Carmax with 7,665 miles in late 2011 and registered the car in Virginia.
  • Going back to the first owner, from October 28th, 2008 until July 5th, 2012, the car was driven less than 14,000 miles. Service records indicate that fluids were changed typically annually instead of mileage intervals.
  • Fuel pressure sensor was replaced in 2012 with 12,564 miles on the odometer.
  • Again as indicated by the previous owner, the tires were replaced in January of 2014 with the Michelin PSS rubber that was all used up when I received the car over two years later.

Besides re-registering the vehicle and the airbag recall, apparently the previous owner (which at this point I have no reason to not believe) had zero problems mechanically and had a local indy shop do all the oil changes every 7,500 miles until the car was sold to me with 53,677 miles on the odometer.

All the records indicate that the 2nd owner was completely truthful and transparent with his full knowledge of the car's history, which bodes well for how he claimed he cared and drove the car, which he described as meticulous and precise. It feels nice to confirm what I already knew, as well as find out some new things, about my car's full history. I can also stop second guessing whether I'm still on the original water pump, e-thermostat, belts, tensioners, etc. as now I know these have not been replaced since being assembled at the factory.
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      02-01-2017, 11:47 PM   #76
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I have to say, I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread! I will be following along as you update. Also, based on your review I decided to pick up the LAST Koni STR.T/Eibach Pro Kit left on tirerack's webste for a steal. I haven't really seen any other reviews for them on e82/88 so I was thrilled to see your review of them.
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      02-03-2017, 10:51 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubes29 View Post
I have to say, I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread! I will be following along as you update. Also, based on your review I decided to pick up the LAST Koni STR.T/Eibach Pro Kit left on tirerack's webste for a steal. I haven't really seen any other reviews for them on e82/88 so I was thrilled to see your review of them.
Glad to hear you're all caught up and following along. Owning this car has been bliss so far. And glad to hear that my feedback led you to pick up the suspension setup I'm using. Just this morning I was on my way to work accelerating through some sweeping interstate high speed turns and took a second to appreciate the solid, planted feel I have with this current wheel/tire/suspension combination.
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      02-03-2017, 06:20 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000 View Post
Glad to hear you're all caught up and following along. Owning this car has been bliss so far. And glad to hear that my feedback led you to pick up the suspension setup I'm using. Just this morning I was on my way to work accelerating through some sweeping interstate high speed turns and took a second to appreciate the solid, planted feel I have with this current wheel/tire/suspension combination.

Been following along here as well. The Koni STR.T sounds like a decent set up. Have you upgraded the rear sub frame bushings (M3 RSFB or inserts)? I didn't see it in the build thread so wasn't sure.
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      02-04-2017, 01:49 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Been following along here as well. The Koni STR.T sounds like a decent set up. Have you upgraded the rear sub frame bushings (M3 RSFB or inserts)? I didn't see it in the build thread so wasn't sure.
I sent you a PM as well -- I'll go ahead and copy/elaborate what I sent to you there for the sake of others who may have the same questions.

My car was at a similar mileage (a little higher) than yours is when I installed the Koni/Eibach setup and I did NOT replace any other rubber parts -- just springs and shocks. I was not having any problems with the OEM suspension when it was replaced, so I just examined everything and confirmed it wasn't torn or looked worn. On the full OEM suspension, I would complain that going full throttle from a light roll would result in a very unsettled feeling from the rear end. It wasn't traction being lost, but what I understood were flimsy rear sub frame bushings. I haven't noticed that problem nearly as much with the wider rubber and lower stance.

I too thought about adding the E36/Z4 bump stops, but after doing some research decided to stick with the E82 OEM bump stops. I did not trim these either. I've had zero issues regarding bump stops in the 10,000 miles+ I've put on the car since then and my car covers all types of road situations -- city traffic, long highway stretches, mountain climbs, etc.

My top hats were in great shape, and since I daily drive the car and wasn't willing to give up the increased tire wear for more negative camber, I just added them right back to the Koni/Eibach combination and went about my way. No rubbing in the front or back with my existing 235/265 Hankook V12 tires.

If you have the extra dough, then definitely spring for the full freshen up, but I didn't find it necessary at my mileage or for how I currently use the car. It's not fair to expect the feel of a coilover-equipped car with loads of negative camber dialed in and set up for performance, but if you're just looking for a lower stance, a slightly stiffer feel in the turns, and close to OEM ride quality, this would fit the bill nicely.
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      03-11-2017, 06:01 PM   #80
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As winter continues to wane, the warmer months here in North Carolina will be here soon and I'm already making preparations. The full machine correction on the exterior paint has been months in the works; just a matter of finding the right weekend to do it. I have also known for a while now that I'm running on borrowed time (over 70,000 miles) as far as my water pump goes, so along with the OEM replacement water pump, e-thermostat, and coolant that I got in a few weeks back, I recently added the u-shaped hose as well just to be on the safe side.



Soon after collecting all the supplies needed for these jobs, I made the decision to free up some space as well as collect some extra modding funds by selling all the parts I had removed since taking ownership. At this point there were quite a few. This helped alleviate some of the costs associated with the next round of enhancements I had sitting in an ECS wish list.

In addition to the paint correction and water pump jobs, two serious future time commitments, I added even more time in the garage when I pulled the trigger on the following:
  • Side skirt splitters from FMXOMAR
  • Ikon Motorsports front lip
  • Made arrangements to have my calipers rebuilt and powder coated a different color
  • The ECS Performance front/rear service kit complete with 2 piece drilled/slotted front rotors, GEOMET drilled/slotted rear rotors, front/rear Hawk HPS pads, pad sensors and new installation hardware
  • ECS stainless steel brake lines
  • The ECS Brake Fluid flush kit complete with Schwaben bleeder, bottles, wrench, and 1 liter of Pentosin Super DOT4 brake fluid
  • OEM front belt kit complete with upper idler pulley, lower idler pulley, accessory belt tensioner and accessory belt
  • Two five liter bottles of Motul X-Cess 5W-40 (I finally made the decision to switch from the OEM oil I've been using for years) and a Mann oil filter kit
  • A set of colder NGK plugs (going to give these a try over the OEM plugs since it's getting close to change interval)
  • Bosch wiper blades

As these parts trickle in over the next few weeks, I'll update this thread. This round of mods should round the car out nicely aesthetically as well as ensuring I won't fall victim to any of the usual culprits that cause issues mechanically. After all of this, a single turbo may be the last task left to tackle before calling it a day.
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      03-19-2017, 06:34 PM   #81
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As I touched on in my previous post, I recently made a rather large order. Over the past week, some of those items have been delivered, opened up and inspected, and then added to the ever-growing pile of parts in the corner of my garage.

Some specialty tools for the upcoming jobs:





Some maintenance items: Motul engine oil, new NGK plugs, and a new front belt/pulley system.





Complete brake system replacement components: 2-piece ECS front rotors, 1 piece GEOMET rear rotors, Hawk HPS pads, ECS SS lines, and Pentosin fluid.









and last for now, the front lip from Ikon Motorsports. The polyurethane looks very durable, but the finish could probably use a simple coat of black paint -- it comes unfinished. I'll decide that once I can test mount the lip to the front bumper. I'm pretty sure this is exactly what I've been looking for though.





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      03-19-2017, 08:03 PM   #82
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There's not a single front lip for the M Sport bumper that I like, but that one doesn't look too bad. Looks like it's rubber?
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      03-19-2017, 08:21 PM   #83
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Please post pics when you do the test fit. TIA
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      03-19-2017, 08:52 PM   #84
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There's not a single front lip for the M Sport bumper that I like, but that one doesn't look too bad. Looks like it's rubber?
Same. This is the only one that I've seen that looks durable and passes my eye test. And it's not rubber, it's unpainted black polyurethane.

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Please post pics when you do the test fit. TIA
Of course! Tons of pictures will be upcoming.
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      03-24-2017, 04:45 PM   #85
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Those front rotors look mean. I'd also like to see the lip mounted and definitely think it needs some paint. That raw poly looks a little rough.
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      03-26-2017, 10:53 PM   #86
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After months of preparation, the time had come to embark on the installation of the next round of mods I’d accumulated. The first order of business was to get the car in the air. With the lowered stance, even with a low-profile jack, getting the car up in the air is a time consuming affair. I can only imagine that when the new aero parts are bolted into place that this will only become more challenging.





Wheels off to expose the before picture of the stock brake system.





Now, time to unpack all these parts I’ve accumulated.





As recommended by a fellow forum member, I decided to give the non-friction part of the rear rotors a blast of high-temp black paint to match the 2-piece look of the fronts. Prepared them with a little tape, three coats of paint and voila! I also gave the dust shields and caliper brackets a fresh coat of high temp black.







The old hardware came off without too much fuss, thanks to a few YouTube videos for clarification. Old sensors, pads, and rotors were tossed – calipers were packed up and shipped out for powder coasting and rebuilding. Then I went ahead and connected the new sensors, mounted the rotors and positioned the ECS stainless lines. Visually, I’m very impressed. The new calipers should really make everything pop.







Next on the agenda was to begin the process of the water pump replacement. This was taken after removing the air ducting. The red circle encompasses a hard plastic hose that gave out on my 535i at 150,000 miles. This line became brittle and eventually cracked, spewing coolant all over the engine bay. To avoid future problems and a mess to clean up, I’ll be locating a more robust solution while the coolant has been drained.



Radiator fan out. Surprisingly easy, although I’d already done it when installing the front MMP inlet.



And some glory shots of said MMP inlets (I’ve also added this to my original post). As you can see, my tangerine tinted BMS filters haven’t held up to the test of time. Oh well—they sure looked good when they were new! Perhaps a black filter would look better.





The water pump replacement job got messy quickly, so pictures were minimal during removal. The Bavarian Autosport video on YouTube was very helpful for reference. Some of the clearances were very tight, but with some patience and the right tools, I was able to remove the old hardware and drain the majority of the coolant.





I’ll be saving installation of the new water pump components, as well as the rest of the mods, over the next few weeks so stay tuned.
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      03-27-2017, 10:15 AM   #87
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Looking great man love your build thread. If you don't mind me asking, what did that brake setup run you? I went all direct from BMW on my last round and am VERY disappointed with the quality of the front rotors. Within 6mo/5k miles I had nasty grooves and marks even with proper bedding. BMW said that's "just been happening" with the rotors they supply and wouldn't do anything for me. Fucking full set was like $1200.
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"Tobias" 2013 135i ///M-Sport 6MT Avant Garde M310's cp-e Charge Pipe Seibon CF M3 Hood Custom Exhaust & Cutout JB4
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      03-27-2017, 11:07 AM   #88
chadillac2000
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Drives: ST N54 135i
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NC

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matticus91 View Post
Looking great man love your build thread. If you don't mind me asking, what did that brake setup run you? I went all direct from BMW on my last round and am VERY disappointed with the quality of the front rotors. Within 6mo/5k miles I had nasty grooves and marks even with proper bedding. BMW said that's "just been happening" with the rotors they supply and wouldn't do anything for me. Fucking full set was like $1200.
I appreciate the kind words!

The ECS performance front/rear kit with 2-piece front rotors, 1 piece GEOMET rear rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and new sensors was $1,031.54. ECS stainless steel lines were $129.95. I also picked up the ECS level 2 fluid flush kit with pressure bleeder and bottles and a liter of Pentosin DOT4 brake fluid for $101.45.
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ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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