"160i" 6.0l Motor Swap Build - @ls1series

[bbnks2]

If I blow my engine again I will probably do this lol Loosk liek it slips in there perfectly.

[highbrowed]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Looking great so far.

I'll probably end up doing this in a few years or a supercharged S65 when/if this N53 setup gives me too many headaches. Need to retain cruise/heat/ac/radio so that's a big question mark.

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.

Only things that won't function after the swap are cruise, DSC and TCS. I plan on getting AC working and radio works without the DME.

Originally Posted by bbnks2

If I blow my engine again I will probably do this lol Loosk liek it slips in there perfectly.

It's tight but it does fit!

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by highbrowed

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.

Only things that won't function after the swap are cruise, DSC and TCS. I plan on getting AC working and radio works without the DME.

Any way to get cruise working? TCS isn't strictly necessary I guess. I drive with mine off or part off most of the time with the clutched LSD anyways.

Interested in reading more on this. So you're mating to the 6HP with a bell adapter? Or did I misunderstand.

[highbrowed]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Any way to get cruise working? TCS isn't strictly necessary I guess. I drive with mine off or part off most of the time with the clutched LSD anyways.

Interested in reading more on this. So you're mating to the 6HP with a bell adapter? Or did I misunderstand.

I'm doing a GS6-53BZ, the stock BMW 6-speed in my 135i

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by highbrowed

I'm doing a GS6-53BZ, the stock BMW 6-speed in my 135i

Hmm. Why not a T56 if you don't mind me asking? Looks like that's the default crate trans that mates with the LS1.

[highbrowed]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Hmm. Why not a T56 if you don't mind me asking? Looks like that's the default crate trans that mates with the LS1.

Couple reasons:

1) A used (and unknown if good) T56 is like $2500 nowadays, and handles the same amount of torque as the BMW trans (~550). The adapter kit, including clutch and flywheel was $1500. It's not a super budget build but costs can get out of hand on a project like this. I'd estimate I'm about $12k in so far.

2) Using the stock BMW transmission allowed me to utilize a shorter DCT driveshaft. If I went T56 I would've needed a custom driveshaft.

3) I like the feel of the stock BMW trans and the shifter options.

[highbrowed]

Update 9/3/21 - Wiring is finished. Made the connection between car and motor as OEM as possible via a Deutsch connector and some solder. Looking forward to tuning this week.

[highbrowed]

Engine is running, and it sounds mean with only test pipes and turndowns. The driving experience is very visceral, like a Viper. More videos to come once the tune gets dialed in.

[houtan]

That’s badass brother. Nice work. Looking forward to seeing more videos.

[iminhell1]

Do a burnout!

[ferocity02]

I'm blown away that you pulled this off in less than 4 months... Bravo!

Can you detail out the wiring a bit more? That seems Iike it would be the biggest PITA of this whole swap.

[highbrowed]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

I'm blown away that you pulled this off in less than 4 months... Bravo!

Can you detail out the wiring a bit more? That seems Iike it would be the biggest PITA of this whole swap.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I can't take credit, I've had a lot of help from Mike at LSE90.com.

Pretty much the only wires that matter on the BMW side are:

• Key on ignition wire
• Starter solenoid wire
• Brake wire
• Fan control wire
• Drive by wire (6 wires)
• CANBus (2 wires)

Two pairs of the DBW wires get terminated together, so in the end there's only 10 connections you have to worry about from the BMW harness to the Holley ECU harness.

Then the only other wires you need are an alternator trigger, heavy gauge alternator charge wire, and heavy gauge starter wire.

If you have any other questions on the wiring let me know and I'll gladly elaborate further.

[highbrowed]

Was able to get a base tune on the car and take it for a spin today. Overall I'm very pleased with the instant low end torque. Will be an excellent drift missile.

Stay tuned for more power adders in the near future.

[sjnh317]

Subbed for more hooning.

[highbrowed]

Update 10/7/21 -

Now that the motor is in and running, I started working on some interior and exterior mods.

I noticed an uptick in underhood heat after moving to the 6.0l, so I decided to install a TrackSpec center hood louver. This is made for the e9x M3 however it matches the 1-Series body lines perfectly. Adding the vent brought down coolant temps by 5 degrees.











Cutting the hood reminded me of an old Simpsons episode ��




I really like the look of the LCI headlights, so I designed decals which mimic the eyebrow, and installed them on the car.






I decided to tint the 3rd brake light as well.






I also installed an Alcantara flat bottom steering wheel w/blue center stripe.




I'll be switching to 1M body panels on in the future but IMO this looks pretty good for now.

[Dieselboy]

Awesome build. Definitely the route I'd take if my N54 pops.

[highbrowed]

Update 12/15/21 - Since the 135i emblem no longer applies, I added one that's a bit more fitting.

Meet the 160i.

[blue135]

Great! How can one do anything but smile.

[scratchgolf135]

Love this build. Just an fyi if you ever end up getting new hood. That center vent should be installed directly behind the radiator support much more forward on the hood where there’s negative pressure to pull heat out. Of course the only good way to do this is to cut into the hood support. Im actually working with trackspec to get vents released specifically for our cars. They should be getting back to me any way with an update. Here’s my proposed design.Attachment 2766779

[lowbudgethero]

you mad lad

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by StevieJ2

I spoke with the dude from hangman garage and he said DCT would have to go away. I'm limited in access to resources at my place, so I'm going to have to pay for the swap to be done and there's very few options (respectable shops) for me to rely on with that.

But, I would absolutely go through with this if I can retain the DCT on this E series 135. My left leg is fucked from a motorcycle wreck a few years back, so a manual is out of the question, and automatics just aren't as fun...thus the obsession with retaining DCT.

I was looking at a $20k build by ABT for the n55, and I would much rather spend that amount of money on a LS swap so it's cheaper to maintain, and about anyone can work on an LS, not so many for N series motors.

You could probably keep the DCT. An S65 DCT swap would be much easier though.

[135]

Originally Posted by scratchgolf135

Love this build. Just an fyi if you ever end up getting new hood. That center vent should be installed directly behind the radiator support much more forward on the hood where there's negative pressure to pull heat out. Of course the only good way to do this is to cut into the hood support. Im actually working with trackspec to get vents released specifically for our cars. They should be getting back to me any way with an update. Here's my proposed design.Attachment 2766779

Will the 1-series track vents avoid cutting into the hood support?

Can you create a new post in the 1addicts Track sub-forum for the 1-series hood vents so we can follow progress and know when they're ready?