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[Afam28]

Originally Posted by stefanvalletti

Have you thought about your brake discs?

No vibration when I apply the brake...
So I don't know that the brake pads or brake discs are the culprit...
Can the brake discs cause vibration/steering wheel shake while driving?


Was able to take the car out for a drive...
Still the same vibration/steering wheel shake...
Gonna take the front left tire and rebalance it...
Could be a chance that they balanced it wrong...
After that I will know for sure that both front wheels were balanced correctly...
(I have no seat vibration, so I can only assume that the rear tires were balanced well enough)

I would assume that if that doesn't work then it could either be the tires or suspension...
So I'll check my suspension thoroughly...
Will do a used tire check if all else checks out...

[stefanvalletti]

Originally Posted by Afam28

No vibration when I apply the brake...
So I don't know that the brake pads or brake discs are the culprit...
Can the brake discs cause vibration/steering wheel shake while driving?


Was able to take the car out for a drive...
Still the same vibration/steering wheel shake...
Gonna take the front left tire and rebalance it...
Could be a chance that they balanced it wrong...
After that I will know for sure that both front wheels were balanced correctly...
(I have no seat vibration, so I can only assume that the rear tires were balanced well enough)

I would assume that if that doesn't work then it could either be the tires or suspension...
So I'll check my suspension thoroughly...
Will do a used tire check if all else checks out...

Only if the disc is slightly warped. As the wheel rotates the uneven disc would cause a vibration.

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by stefanvalletti

Only if the disc is slightly warped. As the wheel rotates the uneven disc would cause a vibration.

So I have no wheel vibration while braking...
So I don't think it's the rotors...
Could I be wrong?

[stefanvalletti]

Originally Posted by Afam28

So I have no wheel vibration while braking...
So I don't think it's the rotors...
Could I be wrong?

It could be any of the mentioned, I'd also have a look at your steering track arms and check the linkages, ball joints, CV joints etc see if there is any play.

Found this page:


https://www.cjponyparts.com/resource...g-wheel-shakes

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by stefanvalletti

It could be any of the mentioned, I'd also have a look at your steering track arms and check the linkages, ball joints, CV joints etc see if there is any play.

Car is hoisted up...
Will give a look...
Thanks!

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by Afam28

Car is hoisted up...
Will give a look...
Thanks!

So after much run around...
Balancing the tires myself...
And finally getting a shop to road force my tires...
The results state that my tires have uneven wear(due to negative camber which the Dinan plates provide)...
Choppiness on the outside of each tire and the aggressive pattern of the tire(nitto neo gen) equals a bad combination for smooth riding...

I'm assuming that the reason that I dont have any wheel shake from, 0-60mph or from 80-faster than 80mph, is because(I'm assuming) the tire rides balanced at those respective speeds but not between 60-80mph...

I'm not a tire expert, but I know for sure that all my suspension parts are in great condition...
Been looking it over for a couple of days now...

[thez99]

So how much tread is actually left on these Nittos? I never caught which style these were are they aggressively racing or lower profile like 35's on the front?

Reason I ask is for 3-4 year old tires that I'm assuming were already fairly low profile and stiff to begin with, AND after letting them sit, AND there's the possibility of some interior dry rot eating the tire away from the inside.

Do you know how much camber you're running in the front?
Have these shops showed you specifically how much wear there is on these tires and how it would only cause mph specific vibrations?

I mean..there's only like 5k other people on this site running camber plates with heavier camber than stock so on and so on and not having vibration issues at all..because that's the better way to drive this car.

My bet since it's so mph specific is that there's either some bushing degradation going on with your cv's or arms, etc. if you haven't replaced any of those and depending on your current mileage, this could cause some wiggle.

That or the tires are shit and need to be replaced. I agree with the other above dude about asking the shop to temp swap out a used set of fitting front tires on ur current rims just to test it. No vibs..there's your problem!

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by thez99

So how much tread is actually left on these Nittos? I never caught which style these were are they aggressively racing or lower profile like 35's on the front?

Reason I ask is for 3-4 year old tires that I'm assuming were already fairly low profile and stiff to begin with, AND after letting them sit, AND there's the possibility of some interior dry rot eating the tire away from the inside.

Do you know how much camber you're running in the front?
Have these shops showed you specifically how much wear there is on these tires and how it would only cause mph specific vibrations?

I mean..there's only like 5k other people on this site running camber plates with heavier camber than stock so on and so on and not having vibration issues at all..because that's the better way to drive this car.

My bet since it's so mph specific is that there's either some bushing degradation going on with your cv's or arms, etc. if you haven't replaced any of those and depending on your current mileage, this could cause some wiggle.

That or the tires are shit and need to be replaced. I agree with the other above dude about asking the shop to temp swap out a used set of fitting front tires on ur current rims just to test it. No vibs..there's your problem!

So I was able to get discount tire direct to send me out another set of tires up front(225 40 R18)...
I should know after they are installed if the previous tires were shitty...

Pretty aggressive tire(nitto neo gen)...

Was told by the discount tire rep that the tires are a soft compound...
But then the Indy that serviced my car said the tires were a hard compound!(when I had my car serviced previously)...

I have M3 upper and lower controls arms front/rear, M3 sway bar front/rear and coil overs...

Was thinking that maybe I could have some tie rod play(haven't replaced those)...
But was thinking if my tie rods were bad then I would have steering shake at all speeds and not just 60-80mph...

I even swapped my front tires(front right to front left etc)...
Actually made the ride quality worse!

Once the new set of tires come in, I think I will be able to rule out if it's the tires...

If I still have steering shake then I'm going to have to do a thorough inspection of my entire suspension...

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by Afam28

So I was able to get discount tire direct to send me out another set of tires up front(225 40 R18)...
I should know after they are installed if the previous tires were shitty...

Pretty aggressive tire(nitto neo gen)...

Was told by the discount tire rep that the tires are a soft compound...
But then the Indy that serviced my car said the tires were a hard compound!(when I had my car serviced previously)...

I have M3 upper and lower controls arms front/rear, M3 sway bar front/rear and coil overs...

Was thinking that maybe I could have some tie rod play(haven't replaced those)...
But was thinking if my tie rods were bad then I would have steering shake at all speeds and not just 60-80mph...

I even swapped my front tires(front right to front left etc)...
Actually made the ride quality worse!

Once the new set of tires come in, I think I will be able to rule out if it's the tires...

If I still have steering shake then I'm going to have to do a thorough inspection of my entire suspension...

Received my replacement tires from discount tire...
Will test out Friday and post results...

[iminhell1]

What is the runout on the rims?
Are the mating surfaces clean (rim to hub)?

The speed, it's either a balance issue or a bent rim.


And if a tire balances with no weight, perfect. Don't break it down and move it until it needs weight. That's going backwards.

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

What is the runout on the rims?
Are the mating surfaces clean (rim to hub)?

The speed, it's either a balance issue or a bent rim.


And if a tire balances with no weight, perfect. Don't break it down and move it until it needs weight. That's going backwards.

Can't say that I know the runout of my rims...
Original stock rims...

Rim to hub is/was clean...

And, understood on your last comment!

[Afam28]

So update...
New tires on, no steering shake...
Maybe we conclude on uneven wear on the old tires?
They told me that my negative camber was the issue(and they could t correct it)...
Dinan camber plates etc...

I included to pictures...
The first picture is my alignment when I initially got the tires(this was done by the better mechanic known for his suspension and alignment work)

The second picture is the alignment done a couple weeks ago...

[iminhell1]

You have a bent control arm or something. My opinion. Have since the first alignment.

Just quickly looking over other alignment pics, caster should be virtually identical. Adding/subtracting camber by knocking the alignment pin out isn't going to change caster.
To do that you need to adjust front to back, which the holes in the tower don't allow. Camber plates may, I haven't looked much at them.


I hate to steer you down an incorrect path, but I kinda think a bent arm is what you'll find here. Might be able to look through one of fe1rx's threads for length specs of the arms.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

You have a bent control arm or something. My opinion. Have since the first alignment.

Just quickly looking over other alignment pics, caster should be virtually identical. Adding/subtracting camber by knocking the alignment pin out isn't going to change caster.
To do that you need to adjust front to back, which the holes in the tower don't allow. Camber plates may, I haven't looked much at them.


I hate to steer you down an incorrect path, but I kinda think a bent arm is what you'll find here. Might be able to look through one of fe1rx's threads for length specs of the arms.

Agreed - never seen caster that different side to side, at most a .1 difference but not what your alignments are showing. Indicates something else is off somewhere - which could be leading to uneven wear and other problems (that they tried to blame on your plates potentially)

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

You have a bent control arm or something. My opinion. Have since the first alignment.

Just quickly looking over other alignment pics, caster should be virtually identical. Adding/subtracting camber by knocking the alignment pin out isn't going to change caster.
To do that you need to adjust front to back, which the holes in the tower don't allow. Camber plates may, I haven't looked much at them.


I hate to steer you down an incorrect path, but I kinda think a bent arm is what you'll find here. Might be able to look through one of fe1rx's threads for length specs of the arms.

All my control arms are new(as of 2018 from fcpeuro, trw "m" kit front and rear)...
I'll get down there again and check though just to be safe...
I did a full inspection a couple of weeks ago and found nothing out of place, but it doesn't hurt to check again...



What do you guys think i should do?
Could it also be that it wasn't aligned properly?

[iminhell1]

Well it's going to be something the same from the first alignment to the most resent. The difference has not changed, 0.7*. And for that to remain constant between 2 different shops rules out shop error.

I can't tell if Dinan plates are tapered, which could point to installation error (you can look up the install instructions). But again, if this is something new from the first alignment, it's not it.

Only other thing I can come up with is maybe the subframe is out of alignment. I'm not sure how much it can move or what directions. I've had mine loose but honestly never paid attention. Had it aligned after, no alignment prior (for a baseline).
If the subframe has ever been dropped, it's something to think about.


But just go through your list and cross off what was done after the first alignment and what was done before. Before is going to be where more answers will come from.

[thez99]

Yea honestly from all I’ve read and been through I know that -1.7 camber in front would not wear the tires unevenly. If anything it would bring the wear more centered as stock the car has next to no neg camber which can cause excessive wear on the outsides.

Now if you’re running -2.5 or more you may see some inside wear but that’s expected.

Obv your arms are newish but that doesn’t mean there still couldn’t be an issue with them. A crack you didn’t see, a fucked up bushing same case. It’d be hard to tell unless shit starts to go south after the install. Have you considered just taking her to the nearest non-shitty dealer and having them just do a solid once over on the front end? Suspension and all. Sure you have aftermarket but you can just relay that to them and say you’re feeling is something else is causing tire wear or vibration. Cause it’s almost like this back n forth bullshit with the other shop is getting old and nowhere

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by thez99

Yea honestly from all I’ve read and been through I know that -1.7 camber in front would not wear the tires unevenly. If anything it would bring the wear more centered as stock the car has next to no neg camber which can cause excessive wear on the outsides.

Now if you’re running -2.5 or more you may see some inside wear but that’s expected.

Obv your arms are newish but that doesn’t mean there still couldn’t be an issue with them. A crack you didn’t see, a fucked up bushing same case. It’d be hard to tell unless shit starts to go south after the install. Have you considered just taking her to the nearest non-shitty dealer and having them just do a solid once over on the front end? Suspension and all. Sure you have aftermarket but you can just relay that to them and say you’re feeling is something else is causing tire wear or vibration. Cause it’s almost like this back n forth bullshit with the other shop is getting old and nowhere

Yeah...
I'm done with the old shop...
Just went to a reputable suspension Indy...
They work on modified cars predominantly...
The guy told me to look into a traction bar...
He also said that my subframe may have shifted somehow...

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by Afam28

Yeah...
I'm done with the old shop...
Just went to a reputable suspension Indy...
They work on modified cars predominantly...
The guy told me to look into a traction bar...
He also said that my subframe may have shifted somehow...

It's the subframe guys...
Just called my go to Indy and confirmed...
Appreciate you guys steering me in the right direction...
Now I search for a used subframe and go from there...

[thez99]

Originally Posted by Afam28

It's the subframe guys...
Just called my go to Indy and confirmed...
Appreciate you guys steering me in the right direction...
Now I search for a used subframe and go from there...

As in the entire subframe is compromised?? Did they give details?

You may be able to get a brand new or furbished one off ECS or Fcp euro or partsgeek. Prob going to be round $250-300 used or $700-825 new. Honestly it depends on how much longer you plan on having the car and how many miles are on it now.

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by thez99

As in the entire subframe is compromised?? Did they give details?

You may be able to get a brand new or furbished one off ECS or Fcp euro or partsgeek. Prob going to be round $250-300 used or $700-825 new. Honestly it depends on how much longer you plan on having the car and how many miles are on it now.

I plan on keeping the car for a while...
Plan on going the used route for a subframe...

My guy at the Indy shop failed to mention it before...
He wrote it down but just forgot(a year ago lol)
We are both looking into a used subframe...
He is also going to call bmw and see what "his" price would be for a new subframe...

I have M3 subframe bushings to put in too...

While he is in there he is going to look over the entire suspension to confirm that everything is ok...

After that, I'll report back...

[thez99]

If you’re keeping the car awhile I’d go new unless you can find a good furbished one from a reputable seller. Don’t go buy one off eBay or something.

Also you’re def going to get a better deal getting one from a distributor versus straight from bmw. OE bmw subframe will likely be about $1450