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08-24-2010, 11:48 AM | #1 |
AKA HISSMAN
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WTT or FS : 2004 SVT COBRA
It has NEVER been in rain. Garage kept. Depending on trade possibilities I could add cash to the deal. I am thinking of moving on to something European, but I am not sure what exactly I am in the mood for. I will add cash to the deal if needed, depending on what is being offered in trade. I am really looking hard at a 135i BMW, or similar. My brother just bought a 2010 135i and I am very impressed. It isn't the power I have now, but I am just ready to drive something a bit more refined. I just went through a complete engine build with this one, and it runs like a top. The basic difference in this engine and the OE engine is that the block is that of the new Ford Racing Aluminator block instead of the OE iron block. It has a forged Kellogg crank, Forged Manley H-Beam rods, and Forged Diamond pistons. The CR was raised from 8.5:1 to 9:1. I also did some porting to the lower intake, and installed new Ford GT supercar cams, springs and retainers. I am still breaking it in actually, so it is on low boost and low timing. I own my own speedshop and 224xlc Dynojet and do the tuning myself. I will be very happy to answer any and all questions. The reason for the engine rebuild was due to a head gasket leak which the Ford tech believes was caused by improper torque being applied by the head bold installer (it torques all the bolts down at once, and for some reason did not get my set correctly.) It had probably been leaking a little bit since the car was driven out of the factory, and finally got bad enough to be noticed. I really wish I had discovered it under the warranty period.
I will entertain all reasonable offers, but I am starting at $29K Or best offer + cash if I am trading for a 135i. I am the only owner, and short of a tech pulling it into a garage, I am the only person that has ever driven it. I have the clear title in hand. FRPP Aluminum block - Aluminator block ARP2000 Hex - Head Studs ARP2000 Rod Bolts ARP Main Studs for Aluminum block Fel-pro MLS head gaskets Diamond pistons (9:1 CR) 11cc dish Manley Forged Rods Forged Kellogg Crank Ford GT cams Comp 4V Beehive springs (#26123.32) F/M HP Series Main Bearings Cleavite Rod Bearings Honed with Plates Washed Balanced Rotating assembly Ported lower intake myself with E-guidance from Posi 2.3 Whipple Gen-I JLT RAI w/ K&N Lower Blue Crinkle Cam covers 26 spline input shaft DFX 6 puck clutch Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel New full repaint @ 3K miles to get is a slick wet look using Standox paint. Wet sanded and buffed afterwards. (Factory Paint was terrible). Xcal2 Flashtuner (as well as custom tunes) I have a stock sized METCO lower, as well as a 2# and 4# and RR 3.0 ...Non slip Upper Catted ProChamber SLP LM2 Catback Fiore Hood Vents and side vent inserts. Wideband Commander W/ SVT Matching gauge, and Matching SVT Fuel Pressure Gauge. Sequential tail lights MGW Shifter 10.5 AFS Cobra rear wheels MM Subframe Connectors BF IRS brace Long Block Assembled By Modular Performance Last edited by JHOOPS2; 09-08-2010 at 09:25 PM.. |
08-24-2010, 01:39 PM | #2 |
A Zip an a Double Cup
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Now that is a REALLY NICE rustang GLWS
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08-24-2010, 01:58 PM | #3 |
AKA HISSMAN
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Thanks!
I am going to most likely get a 135i (N54). I just know that a dealer is going to rape me. So, if I can sell it or trade it then at least I won't have to deal with the ignorant haggling. Not that I don't enjoy haggling though Edited N of a E Last edited by JHOOPS2; 08-24-2010 at 02:11 PM.. |
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08-24-2010, 02:04 PM | #4 |
A Zip an a Double Cup
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its N54
Yah, your better off trying to sell it outright.
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08-24-2010, 02:09 PM | #5 |
AKA HISSMAN
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08-24-2010, 02:43 PM | #6 |
I know a thing or 2 about a thing or 2...
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Holy shit...you could eat off of that motor! Good luck. What does it dyno at?
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08-24-2010, 02:50 PM | #7 |
AKA HISSMAN
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I actually own my own Dynojet 224xlc. I have only had it on for initial test and tune. It put down 540hp and 490tq with only 13.7 (iirc) psi and a low 17 degrees of timing. At that boost level the timing should be around 21 degrees on 93 octane for optimal power and the A/F around 11.9:1. The A/F was 11.2:1. I will tune it for whatever boost level the buyer wants. With the stock engine and Whipple it put down 612hp 598 tq @ 17.7psi with 19 degrees of timing and 11.5:1 A//F. It should hit mid to low 600's easy. I have pulley combos that will get it to 15, 17, 19, 21 and 23 psi respectively. 19 psi is as far as I would push it on pump gas though. With different superchargers or twin turbo setups, the sky is the limit. No reason why this can't crack well into 1,000 hp+ without worry of the internals. I went with the FGT cams because they love to rev, and the power keeps going well beyond 7K rpms. This engine build was focused more on longevity and reduction of weight off of the nose than with max power in mine. With that said, it still scoots pretty good. The Aluminum block weighs about 80lbs less than the iron block, FWIW.
Last edited by JHOOPS2; 08-24-2010 at 02:55 PM.. |
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08-24-2010, 06:21 PM | #9 |
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Very nice Mustang...I seriously considered a terminator for my next ride but in the end I decided to go with a 135i. GLWS
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'09 135i - Step - Sport - M.Blue - JB3 - Eibach Drop -Alufelgen SF-71 for 1 Series
'08 535i - Step - Sport - JB3 - BMS Air Filter - HKS BOV/Pipe - Aquamist water/meth injection - EuroLights Yellow ION Foglight Bulbs - |
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08-26-2010, 09:04 AM | #10 |
A Zip an a Double Cup
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Lets see some more pictures
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08-26-2010, 09:33 AM | #11 |
AKA HISSMAN
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The old Iron Engine block after tear-down. The old engine Shot of the rear : This was the estimated Flywheel HP based on my Rear wheel numbers with my last engine. I got my new tag about two weeks ago, which is TERMIN8. I was going to keep that until I was able to get some final numbers after I finish break in and tuning. Last edited by JHOOPS2; 08-26-2010 at 09:38 AM.. |
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08-26-2010, 09:58 AM | #12 |
A Zip an a Double Cup
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If that was already mine id have a hard time getting rid of it
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08-26-2010, 12:45 PM | #13 |
AKA HISSMAN
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I really don't get that attached to cars. This one though has been a little different. I know that I will always be like "why did I get rid of it?". I bought it off the showroom floor in 2004 and enjoy it, but I never drive it, and it is just to aggressive for my wife, and she refuses to drive a 6 speed. So my next car is going to be more civilized and an auto so that she car scoot around from time to time. It will be hard, but all great things come to an end.
-Jeff |
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08-26-2010, 05:06 PM | #14 |
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I had an 03 convertible with a Griggs GR-40 suspension. Getting rid of that car was one of the hardest things I've ever done. I bought the 135 to replace it, but it's nowhere near the performance car that the Terminator was. I love driving the 1er though, it's a real blast, but I'm a suspension guy, and I can't wait to see what potential it holds in that respect.
Good luck with the sale, anybody picking up this car would have one hell of a motor to look forward to. If I were to have kept the car and built the motor, this comes pretty damn close to what I would have done, it's pretty much bulletproof. Dave |
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08-26-2010, 10:36 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
For some reason, the 03 Cobra is one of the cars I have the fondest memory of..... |
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08-27-2010, 10:11 AM | #18 |
First Lieutenant
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All I can say,
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