BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      07-29-2017, 03:55 PM   #23
MightyMouseTech
Major General
MightyMouseTech's Avatar
3424
Rep
5,400
Posts

Drives: 13 135i 6MT LeMans Blue MSport
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ottawa, Canada

iTrader: (0)

If you have a bit of noise from the belt from oil on it, a bit of baby powder on the belt will instantly make it quiet.
Appreciate 1
Yeineken1131.50

      01-20-2018, 02:11 PM   #24
mr.fabulous
Captain
mr.fabulous's Avatar
182
Rep
876
Posts

Drives: Women Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida Gulf Coast

iTrader: (0)

Anybody got video for this? I'm especially interested in seeing removal of the fan.
__________________
2011 135i MSport 6MT AW/black, 72Kmiles, bone stock, moneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoney I LOVE THIS CAR
Appreciate 0
      01-17-2019, 08:11 AM   #25
zx10guy
Colonel
2028
Rep
2,236
Posts

Drives: 2013 135i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: DC

iTrader: (0)

I just did this job on my MY 2013 with 88k miles. Ordered all the parts from FCP Euro which was the belt and the tensioner/pulley kit. I initially tried to pull the fan out to give myself more clearance to work but didn't want to mess with trying to figure out why the driver's side of the fan was hanging up. So all the work was done with the fan in place. While it's tight, it is doable. Having some specialty tools also came in handy such as the serpentine belt tool I bought a long time ago which is a long breaker bar style tool that is very thin to allow better access.

The below pics are shots of the old belt and the routing as best I could do. I sketched out the routing on paper and will do a clean drawing later. I know there is a N55 belt routing diagram floating around on the forum somewhere. I'll just do one and put it here.
Name:  20190116_153731.jpg
Views: 241
Size:  141.0 KB
Name:  Resized_20190116_153739_7092.jpg
Views: 233
Size:  35.8 KB

The below pic is of the tensioner. You'll need a Torx 60 to unload tension to get the belt off. The spot you'll insert the Torx 60 is the red box. To unload tension you have to push to the right towards the driver's side. The green box highlights the bolt which holds the tensioner to the engine block. You have to pop off the plastic cover over the pulley to gain access. Make sure you put your free hand below the pulley as that cover is going to fall down the engine bay. That bolt requires a Torx 50. If you also notice, the ribbing of this pulley. It is not ribbed. It's the rubber/material from the belt over time deposited on the pulley. I make note of this because I thought I got the wrong part when the new one was smooth. Rubbing the surface of the old pulley wiped away the "ribbing". Interesting BMW opted to not make this pulley ribbed.
Name:  20190116_161328.jpg
Views: 238
Size:  223.4 KB

Here is a pic of the tensioner removed and the area of the block where the tensioner mounts.
Name:  Resized_20190116_161606_3624.jpg
Views: 234
Size:  47.0 KB

Here is a pic of one of the idler pulleys which I replaced with a new one from the kit. It's marked off with the green box. You can see above it I had already installed the new tensioner and I marked off in red the install pin. Again the pulleys have a cover over the bolt which needs to be popped off. The bolts holding the pulleys require the same Torx 50.
Name:  Resized_20190116_163555_3459.jpg
Views: 239
Size:  248.6 KB

Here is a pic of the top idler pulley removed. I marked off where it mounts to the engine block in red. The other idler pulley below the one you just removed is marked off in green.
Name:  Resized_20190116_164226_3358.jpg
Views: 239
Size:  178.6 KB

Here are all the old replaced parts.
Name:  Resized_20190116_214042_4046.jpg
Views: 241
Size:  132.6 KB

Of note, once you get everything bolted on and you're ready to install the belt, pull the install pin out of the tensioner. You won't be able to unload the pulley which applies tension to the belt enough with it in place to get the belt installed.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lups View Post
We might not be in an agreement on Trump, but I'll be the first penis chaser here to say I'll rather take it up in the ass than to argue with you on this.
Appreciate 1
houtan393.50

      01-17-2019, 08:57 PM   #26
zx10guy
Colonel
2028
Rep
2,236
Posts

Drives: 2013 135i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: DC

iTrader: (0)

Forgot to also mention, you need a Torx 20 to unscrew the screws which secures the air intake to the core support. There are 4 of these screws.

Below is the belt routing I made up for the N55. Pulley sizes and location relative to each other and on the engine is not exact.
Name:  N55 belt routing.bmp
Views: 263
Size:  3.10 MB
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lups View Post
We might not be in an agreement on Trump, but I'll be the first penis chaser here to say I'll rather take it up in the ass than to argue with you on this.
Appreciate 0
      01-18-2019, 03:38 PM   #27
Katkarot
Private First Class
18
Rep
153
Posts

Drives: 2010MDX 2012135i
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lotusland

iTrader: (4)

I install the Belt last week and I did not remove the fan.

There is a video on how to remove the fan from Bavaria I think.

I can tell you that there are 2 clips that are holding the fan from the bottom of the intercooler. I did not discover this when I was doing my OFHG but found it during coolant flush. You have to unclip them before you can pull the fan out.

If you remove the plastic covering under
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
Anybody got video for this? I'm especially interested in seeing removal of the fan.
Appreciate 0
      01-18-2019, 04:26 PM   #28
zx10guy
Colonel
2028
Rep
2,236
Posts

Drives: 2013 135i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: DC

iTrader: (0)

I figured as much. But I am glad I didn't have to deal with having to pull the fan out regardless. And from what I can tell, the heavy duty fan I have as part of the PPK2 is a bit thicker than the normal 135i fan.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lups View Post
We might not be in an agreement on Trump, but I'll be the first penis chaser here to say I'll rather take it up in the ass than to argue with you on this.
Appreciate 0
      01-21-2019, 05:17 PM   #29
FtheBar.N55
New Member
FtheBar.N55's Avatar
United_States
2
Rep
14
Posts

Drives: 2012 E82 N55
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Santa Cruz, CA

iTrader: (0)

Any tricks to get the service pin out? I have everything set up and for the life of me can not pull that pin out to put tension back on belt. Any help appreciated thanks!
Appreciate 0
      01-22-2019, 08:20 PM   #30
zx10guy
Colonel
2028
Rep
2,236
Posts

Drives: 2013 135i
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: DC

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by FtheBar.N55 View Post
Any tricks to get the service pin out? I have everything set up and for the life of me can not pull that pin out to put tension back on belt. Any help appreciated thanks!
You have to put tension on the tensioner pulley arm where you insert the T60 bit. Push the socket/wrench, breaker bar, etc towards the driver's side. You only need move it a little bit to be able to pull the pin out.

Were you able to load the belt with the pin in? I couldn't. I had to get the pin pulled out as the pin was not allowing me to push the breaker bar enough to get the belt over the last pulley.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lups View Post
We might not be in an agreement on Trump, but I'll be the first penis chaser here to say I'll rather take it up in the ass than to argue with you on this.
Appreciate 0
      05-23-2019, 11:35 AM   #31
Tallicia
Private First Class
Tallicia's Avatar
United_States
61
Rep
102
Posts

Drives: 135i
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: DFW, TX

iTrader: (2)

Garage List
Question Serpantine Bypass A/C and PS pump belt length?

Does anyone by chance know what size serpentine belt would be needed to bypass the PS and A/C on the 135i N55 ( or other N55B30A with similar pensioner and pulley layout?

I'm replacing my tensioner and pulleys and A/C over running pulley and have a new PS pump and PS pulley as well to go on, but would like a quick way to verify where noise is coming from.

Running the engine without a belt, she runs great. the noises I'm getting when cold until temps are over 200'F I expect will be addressed by tensioner, deflection and Alternator pulley. While I am in there I will use a string to measure what length will work for bypassing the other two "non essential" pumps.

Basically I'm trying to have a good tool and info to debug and track down noises.

Picking up a $15 belt to swap on that can bypass some makes it much easier to determine the noise, plus in a bad situation pinch, it's nice to have an option such as bypassing the PS pump while parts are on order.

So I'll be measuring soon, but wanted to see if anyone else might have measured or used a belt shorter than the 7 groove 1860mm or 1855mm for testing/bypassing?

Side note: would some dyno queens or performance oriented builds not benefit from removing the bottom deflector pulley and running a belt direct between the tensioner, Alternator, one deflector and to the crank? I know it's minimal, but on track/strip, it's just two less bits getting spun around and worn out and eating up horsepower.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      06-22-2019, 06:14 PM   #32
Juddingsss
Registered
2
Rep
1
Posts

Drives: 2013 BMW 135i
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Jacksonville, FL

iTrader: (0)

Saviors

Just wanted to let y'all know, y'all saved me when my serpentine belt broke 100 miles from home, at 8pm.

The belt was shredded after a tight, full lock turn (I know, I know). I was in unfamiliar territory, and was 30 minutes away from the closest parts store. Y'all helped me figure out which tools I needed to get just to replace the belt, which really are just a T20 (and a handle) for the intake bits, a T60 for the tensioner, and a breaker bar to attach to the T60.

I'll likely swap the pulleys and tensioners once I maintain the coming system, but they seem fine for now.

Anyway, if there is one thing I can contribute to this post, it's this: you can totally replace your serpentine belt in the dark in less than 30 minutes.

Disclaimer: it took me 2 hours and 200 dollars. 30 minutes diagnosing and research, 1 hour of Uber rides (totaled about 100 dollars) and shopping, 5 minutes of complaining, and then the rest is repair. The belt only cost 40 bucks with a 3 year warranty 🤷🏻*♂️

Thanks guys, I look forward to future discussions
Appreciate 1
dtla1341.00

      10-19-2019, 08:23 PM   #33
JM.Monty
Registered
JM.Monty's Avatar
United_States
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: 11 BMW 135i N55
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: El Paso, TX

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeineken View Post
Thanks for the help from the few that gave information. Took some helpful pictures. Overall this is a very easy DIY if you have all the right tools and a car lift.

Found these helpful videos on understanding the basics.


RIBBED V-BELT 7PK 1860: 11287628653
MECHANICAL BELT TENSIONER: 11287582946
Deflection pulley: 11287578674
Deflection pulley: 11287578675

  1. Remove Intake Duct
  2. Remove Belly Pan
  3. Remove Radiator Fan

    There are two Torx on the fan. One up top on the passenger side. The second is on the bottom.

    Unclip the electrical connection on the top.

    There are 5 clips holding the fan in place. Two on the intercooler. Two on the left and right upper side. And Lastly a rubber mount on the charge pipe. The charge pipe clip is the hardest. Spray it with WD-40 or Liquidwrech and it will come off easy.

    After you have removed all the clips you need to pull the fan towards the engine block away from the radiator to be able to pull it straight up.


  4. Sketch Belt Pattern
  5. Use Star wrench to release belt tension.
  6. Remove Belt
  7. Remove Caps on Tensioner and Idlers
  8. Remove old Tensioner and Idlers
  9. Install new Tensioner and Idlers
  10. Install New Caps (I removed the old ones and they were in perfect shape. Save your self a few dollars and just reuse the old ones.)
  11. Install New Belt
  12. Remove Service Pin from new Tensioner
  13. Reinstall Radiator Fan
  14. Reinstall Intake Duct
  15. Reinstall Belly Pan

*Its worth noting that while you have the radiator fan out now is a good time to do other maintenance items and to look for potential problems. I discovered my crank shaft seal had gone bad creating a slow leak onto the vibration damper causing oil to be slung up onto the engine block.
Thank you thank you!! I'llhave to do this job myself pretty soon. Looking for parts at this time to replace all that, along with OFHG and Valve Cover Gasket. Where you bought the parts and how much did they cost??
Appreciate 0
      10-19-2019, 08:32 PM   #34
JM.Monty
Registered
JM.Monty's Avatar
United_States
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: 11 BMW 135i N55
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: El Paso, TX

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matticus91 View Post
Best instructions I can offer:

Remove intake and front intake cowl (parts over the front of the motor)
Remove Radiator Fan (involves some tricky squeezing but not too hard)
Take pic of belt pattern
Use breaker bar to release tension and insert service pin to hold
Unbolt unbolt unbolt
Install new in reverse.

I know it's not much, just what I gathered from watching BMW tech do mine.
Really simplified. With pictures would be perfect!!, but thank you as well. Anything helps!!
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:20 PM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST