BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      04-28-2019, 10:55 AM   #23
Geojoe3333
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Hey all!

I've been through the battery replacement thing recently and have found this tool extremely useful, not just to register batteries but also to read code and fix your ride. The link is posted below, very affordable and opens up the dialog between you and your finely tuned machine. You can replace the battery with whatever type you wish, just make sure all the connections are there from your factory to new and everything fits right, from there just register it properly in the vehicle and you should be good to go.

Scan Tool Automotive Scanner for...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZB2MWL...p_mob_ap_share
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      06-06-2019, 10:30 AM   #24
t5gt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geojoe3333 View Post
Hey all!

I've been through the battery replacement thing recently and have found this tool extremely useful, not just to register batteries but also to read code and fix your ride. The link is posted below, very affordable and opens up the dialog between you and your finely tuned machine. You can replace the battery with whatever type you wish, just make sure all the connections are there from your factory to new and everything fits right, from there just register it properly in the vehicle and you should be good to go.

Scan Tool Automotive Scanner for...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZB2MWL...p_mob_ap_share
I just ordered the model 7910 of the same scanner, 30% off coupon and supposed to have more battery testing options. My question does it just register like battery or can u change battery types?
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      06-10-2019, 01:45 PM   #25
JimD
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I looked at the user manual from the Amazon product listing and it says you can change battery size and type (flooded versus AGM). That seems like a pretty good option for a one time ~$100 expense.
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      07-20-2019, 05:55 PM   #26
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Maan, I know there's been time since this topic exists, but you saved me lots of time. That's the best description of battery replacement procedure on E series in the whole Internet.

I used this guide to replace battery on E84, and it helped me waaay.

Here are couple of cents to add for E84.

Tools and help you would need.

1. A 1/4" ratchet.
2. 10 mm and 13 mm heads (the 13 mm one is only needed to remove the but that holds the bolt for red battery control module (whatever it is, next to the positive terminal; all other nuts are 10 mm ones).
3. A 250+ mm extender for the ratchet (this one is needed to unscrew the bolt that holds the metal plate near the negative terminal and fixes the battery down to the car body).
4. If you're doing it for the first time, it would be great if there were someone who could assist you with a torch.

Comments

1. To remove the metalic clips of the red battery control module, you have to insert the flat screw driver down along the metallic clip and pull the screw driver aside from the battery side towards the walls of car body. The S-shaped metallic clip holds the power control module to the walls of the battery. (Gee, with my English it hardly could help anyone, but who knows)
Releasing the clips turned out to be the hardest part of the work.

2. When you will be screwing the bolt that pins the metallic plate to the body, make sure to put it down on the car trunk's floor before inserting the new battery. The 10 mm socket that I used to unscrew the plate's bolt wasn't magnetic. I couldn't position the plate properly failing to fit the bolt into the hole in the trunk's floor. The plate has three notches that should clip into the battery and a bolt that you should screw into the car's floor when there three notches are positioned properly.

3. If you are using an Exide AGM battery, it could be that the vent hole in the battery that is next to the positive terminal will be capped. Mine has a rubber cap inserted into the vent hole of the battery. Only the vent hole that is close to the negative terminal was open. Unlatch the cap with your nail to open the vent whole on the side of the positive terminal and then cap the hole next to the negative terminal.

All in all, this is a ridiculously awkward procedure, dear BMW. It's not a big deal when you do it for the second time, but you'd expect a much more easier way to replace such a part as the battery from a manufacturer that produces premium products. Imagine you're 1000 miles away from the BMW service shop, and your battery died. Why would you go through such a mess with gazillion of wires when it should be a pull out / push in procedure?

Thanks a lot to the members of this forum and Mark08EX, this is because of you I could manage with replacement much easier than I expected. Hopping BMW will publish this procedure somewhere on their papers.
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      10-07-2019, 12:08 PM   #27
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I need to replace my battery this week. Looking into what battery to purchase, but I have Carly for Registration, so that's no worry.
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      10-07-2019, 12:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
I need to replace my battery this week. Looking into what battery to purchase, but I have Carly for Registration, so that's no worry.
The WalMart H8 is their biggest and least expensive of the three sizes that work in our cars. I think it's less expensive b/c it's such an unusual size (big!) thus less in demand.
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      10-08-2019, 07:58 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
The WalMart H8 is their biggest and least expensive of the three sizes that work in our cars. I think it's less expensive b/c it's such an unusual size (big!) thus less in demand.
I'm trying to figure out which size to get. My original is not marked with a size and my searches on Autozone are coming up with options in H6, 7, and 8.
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      10-08-2019, 08:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
I'm trying to figure out which size to get. My original is not marked with a size and my searches on Autozone are coming up with options in H6, 7, and 8.
All 3 fit because of the adjustable bracket. I went with the H8 (~80Ah) as it was the largest - my car has most available options.
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      09-22-2020, 01:31 PM   #31
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Just replaced the original battery (Week 33 of 2012) in my 2013 128i with a new BMW battery. New one was larger and used the longest-size trunk mounting hole. Made for a bit of effort to get the plate back in the floor. Used Schwaben/Foxwell scan tool to register. Asked me a bunch of questions on markings on battery I never found. Probably should have taken a photo of the new batter prior to installation. Just told the scanner it was the same size (Ah) battery and used the date code on a sticker when it asked me for some number at/near the negative terminal. The old one had a date stamp in the terminal so I figured that's what it wanted. 4-digit number, no spaces. Seemed to work.

I'd been having some issues of "low voltage" warning after the car sat for a couple of days with the iPod still connected (if that made any difference) and with the dash information display so cramped anyway, I wanted to get rid of the warning triangle. It never failed to start. Pretty impressive life for a Varta battery! If I put it on my C-Tech charger with the "reconditioning" cycle, it would be fine for over a week if I didn't leave lots of things active, or the doors open, or the radio on without the engine running. The first clue I was going to get the "low voltage" warning would be loss of comfort-access to open the locked doors. I'd have to use the key button, at least once, to reactivate CA. I assume this is some protection that shuts off non-vital electrical consumers so the car will always at least start. Schwaben battery history test showed last battery at 55% and new one, not charged since manufactured, registered 75%.

On the instructions here for the clips on the side of the red-plastic positive terminal mass, if you just reach under where it clips, and simply pull out with your fingers, it released on mine quite simply. I started with the screwdriver but it made no sense.
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