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11-07-2008, 07:47 PM | #25 |
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Drives: 1988 M3, 1990 M3, 1998 M3/4
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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Garage List 1998 BMW M3/4 [10.00]
2011 BMW M3 Sedan [9.28] 1988 BMW M3 [9.40] 1990 BMW M3 [10.00] 2008 BMW 135i - sold [0.00] 2003 BMW M3 - sold [0.00] |
Thanks for the update. I'm holding out for them to get it right. I still have an issue with my shifter that hasn't been resolved but it's mostly my fault since I haven't followed up with them in awhile.
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1988 BMW M3 - Hennarot/Black
1990 BMW M3 racecar - Diamond Schwarz/Black 1998 BMW M3 - Alpine White/Mulberry 2011 BMW 328i racecar - LeMans Blue/Black |
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01-09-2009, 02:58 PM | #26 |
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Was this issue ever resolved?
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01-09-2009, 03:42 PM | #27 |
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01-10-2009, 09:42 AM | #28 | |
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Quote:
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01-10-2009, 04:41 PM | #29 | |
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I'm expecting my replacement in the mail any day now, after talking with Rob Levinson. Nobody can answer your exact question right now, because nobody can run it on stiff yet, until the new bars are distributed. However, on medium stiffness, which is quite stiffer than the stock bar, I had improved turn-in on autocross runs. I'm expecting even more improved turn-in once I get the replacement bar. Either way, i can report back, but it's going to be quite a while until I get to do an autocross run, and snow tires do not give a decent impression of how sways work. :smile: |
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03-07-2009, 11:46 PM | #30 |
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Larry, I hope you don't mind but I am going to add some changes for those people who have convertibles. I figure it would be good to keep one thread for the install.
Installing the UUC front bar is little more complicated on the E88. To make up for lack of a solid roof, there is extra bracing all over the car. Looking under a convertible, you will see a V-brace with the point near the front bumper with the ends connecting to the outside of the body near the front jack pad. See #3, #4, and #5 in the pic below. You will remove these parts in addition to the parts Larry outlined in his posts. First remove the cover (#5 in the pic) that protects the bolts where the 2 braces meet to form a 'V'. Then you will remove the other nuts holding the brace (there are at least 2 more per brace). Note that I was also installing the //M tension rods. Having removed those, I will able to remove the front brace bolts and loosen the brace middle bolts and slide it out. I think you will have to either remove the tension rods or the bracing. It will be easier to remove the bracing if you are not planning on installing the //M tension rods. Another joy of having a convertible is having take out 24 freaking screws to remove the front plastic pan. The coupe guys get away with "only" 18 screws. Lucky bastards. I have the redesigned UUC bar on full stiff. I will test it out at the autox next weekend. |
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03-21-2009, 09:54 AM | #32 |
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According to **********s in this thread the issue has been resolved. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=222984
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06-10-2009, 12:13 PM | #36 |
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This from an owner of the UUC products. I have removed the bar after a year and a half of chasing issues that were all from the bar. Although made well they are far to stiff for stock suspension and even the TC Kline setup I have.
UUC is selling a bar for very stiff (race) setups to people with stock and mildly modified suspension. It's an inappropriate match. Remember that swaybars are the last thing you should invest in. Tune suspension with spring rates, dampers and camber then sways. You could even put tires before sways. My big issue is that they are so stiff they cause more understeer and are also very noisy. If you don't mind the noise then good on you. They give a flatter ride but better handling is only a perception caused by the flatter ride. When you push the car really hard the lack of mechanical grip rears its head and results in more understeer. They also seem to add spring rate you didn't ask for. I know I sound like a bitch but I'm just imparting my experience and perception. Run it by your suspension guru and see what they think. BTW. My times at Infineon through sustained turns was far better and resulted in 1:58s where 2:00s were my previous fast time. The only change was changing the sways back to the stock front. I got a tiny bit more roll but noticeably better bite on the front. Sorry UUC But I suggest just putting an M3 bar on there. |
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10-06-2009, 11:14 PM | #39 |
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I can't say about the rest of the bar, but looking at Larry's original pics, the end tabs now have 2 holes instead of 3. The tabs are also angled a bit instead of being straight. May very well be an E90 bar.
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10-07-2009, 07:15 AM | #40 |
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Geez people, just go with the Hotchkis bar. Perfect fit, outstanding handling balance with hugely reduced understeer and lean. The company knows what they're doing, you'll love the results. It's a 32mm hollow bar and fits 1- and 3 series (same suspension).
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10-07-2009, 03:53 PM | #42 |
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I got my UUC swaybar a week ago and still haven't found time to put it in.
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10-07-2009, 05:51 PM | #43 |
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Front doesn't take long at all didn't get the rear so I cant tell you on that. To save you time you dont have to take the wheels off of the car you can get the end links off with them on.
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10-08-2009, 03:33 PM | #44 |
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Thanks. I did front/rear sways on my last bimmer so I'm pretty familiar with the install. It'll probably take me longer to prep and jack up the car than remove/install the front swaybar.
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2018 BMW 440i - M Sport, Exec Glacier Silver Metallic/Coral Red Dakota Retired: '00 323i, '06 325Ci, '09 135i, '06 Z4M Roadster, '93 525i, '76 2002, '14 X1, '14 M235i, '16 X4, '16 435i Last edited by SlickShift; 01-11-2013 at 10:21 AM.. |
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