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      06-30-2017, 01:46 PM   #67
dusty.brown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Templedogg View Post
Very nice write up and pics!!!

The only things different for me was I was able to change both front pads with only taking out the T-40 holding bolts on one side of the front caliper and that gave enough room to angel and slide in the pad for the side with the bolts still on, then insert the other pad, hold in place, and reinstall the T-40s. And actually I was able to use the original backing plates on the front and one of the two on the back without issue. I did not experience or hear the pads shifting during bedding. I will look and see if they are up against the pins and report back.
Concur with this. Did front pads today. There is no need to remove the four T-40 pins to change pads. Just needed some PBlaster and a large 1/2" ratchet on those big 10mm hex bolts.


ETA: I had horrible brake squeal with Textar pads that the dealer installed. I switch to EBC Red Stuff pads and used SRC Brake Grease. ZERO NOISE! Great products.

Last edited by dusty.brown; 10-15-2017 at 12:36 PM..
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      01-23-2018, 05:11 PM   #68
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Thanks for the DIY and tips!
I've got about 2mm left on rear pads, so probably doing them this weekend (Stop-Tech Street Performance and new sensors in the garage for a year already.)
At least 12,000 miles left on the fronts, so considering leaving those stock for now.
Since I have stop-techs and sensor for those, too, thinking of doing them anyway. Will measure rotors for sure.
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      01-26-2018, 03:45 PM   #69
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Just did the pad swap.
About 85,000 miles.
Not bad at all, thanks to the tutorial and tips!
Rear rotors are at 22.5mm, so I'm keeping them.

This summer a shop told me I had 3mm left and they'd be due soon.
2 weeks ago, different shop told me 2mm probably do it quick.
The thinnest one is still at. 245" = 6mm.
Others are at. 275" = 7mm.
New ones are. 375" = 9.5mm.
Is there some magical different way I should be measuring my brake pads?
Or did I replace them way too soon?

Should I be measuring at the ends, where the chamfer stops?
New are about 6mm there, most worn one has. 1"=2.5mm remaining.

Most-worn old one:



Last edited by tjswarbrick; 01-26-2018 at 04:10 PM..
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      01-26-2018, 04:17 PM   #70
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Way too soon. Did you not see little difference between your most worn and a new pad? Get yourself a Steelman manual brake guage set for less than $12 from Amazon or elsewhere.
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      01-27-2018, 01:48 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernDancer View Post
Way too soon. Did you not see little difference between your most worn and a new pad? Get yourself a Steelman manual brake guage set for less than $12 from Amazon or elsewhere.
I saw it.
Was only replacing em on the advice of 2 different shops.
So, now the originals are boxed up for next time.
Thinking of doing the fronts, just so I have a full set of Stop Tech on there for now.
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      02-02-2018, 04:05 PM   #72
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Does the 135i require brake shims up front?? I bought the kit from the dealer and it doesn't contain any shims.
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      02-20-2018, 06:55 PM   #73
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I replaced front rotors and pads (StopTech) a couple months ago. Fairly simple DYI. I’m finally getting around to doing the rear. I’ve had no problems until I went to drop the pads in. The OEM metal shims don’t fit the StopTech HP Street rear pads. The little tabs on the left/right on the shims don’t fit in between the pad and top weight. (The OEM pad had a gap between the pad body and the metal weights that the shim tabs dropped into.) So, I’m not sure if I should leave the shim out, or should I clip of the tabs and use them?? Has anyone else had this issue with the StopTech pads?
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      02-20-2018, 08:27 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1convert View Post
I replaced front rotors and pads (StopTech) a couple months ago. Fairly simple DYI. Iím finally getting around to doing the rear. Iíve had no problems until I went to drop the pads in. The OEM metal shims donít fit the StopTech HP Street rear pads. The little tabs on the left/right on the shims donít fit in between the pad and top weight. (The OEM pad had a gap between the pad body and the metal weights that the shim tabs dropped into.) So, Iím not sure if I should leave the shim out, or should I clip of the tabs and use them?? Has anyone else had this issue with the StopTech pads?
I recently did Stop-Tech Street Performance rears, as noted above.
No problems.
Cleaned everything off, added anti-squeal, and re-assembled just like stock.
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      03-04-2018, 09:28 PM   #75
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Replaced OEM pads this weekend with new OEM-like pads (Jurid brand from BavAuto). This is what triggered a red warning get brakes replaced ASAP. This thickness is the whole width measured from the inside middle of the brake pad. (The region that would be closest to the center of the rotor)

Actual pad material thickness is unknown and hard to measure but it looks like half or more of the thickness is actual abrasion material as opposed to a backing.

11.70mm
12.63mm
12.62mm
12.10mm


I replaced my worn pads with new pads that measured around 16.5mm. So, I only lost 4-5mm... I feel like I had a lot of life left in these pads and the warning system was BS. That said, my front brakes were starting to squeal quite a bit at times. Hard to say why though. Could've just been brake shudder or something.

I took some photos while I was doing this just to document here and there:
View post on imgur.com


The guide was helpful. Should've watched the youtube video too. I really recommend having the right tools *before* you start the job. Otherwise, you'll have a bad time.
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      04-29-2018, 11:14 AM   #76
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comments and questions from old guy

Hi guys and girls. Just did the front brake maintenance on my 2012 135i.
When I got the car in'16 I removed all the rotors and lubricated all the contact points on the hubs etc. with antiseize compound. I do my brakes regularly and I almost never have to replace pads or rotors. (On one of my vehicles I did 225,000 km on the original rotors and on another I did 300,000 km.) I have been doing brakes for 35 years and was a licensed mechanic for a while when I was younger. THANKS to the OP and all of the other contributions here!!
1. When you have a bolt or nut which is difficult to turn, always work it back and forth until it breaks "free". That is loosen and tighten a bit, loosen and tighten a bit less, etc. It is surprisingly easy to break even a big bolt if you do not do this.
2. I totally understand the two methods for front caliper removal - allen head bolts versus the two hex head bolts "at the back" on the torque plate. I have only used the allen head bolt removal method (on this car). After the first time, they are easy to remove and replace and I doubt there is any risk in this. The reason I like this method is that replacement of the caliper onto the rotor is very very easy this way.
3. I had a tough time getting the pads in (front caliper) because the pad would not go past the spring clip, kept catching on it. It was much easier when I backed out the torx screws. I'm curious how you get the pads in place if you don't back out the screws? Maybe I'm just clumsy.
4. One theory I have about the shims on the back of brake pads is that the shim are made of a "stainless" or rust resistant material and this prevents the pistons from rusting to the back of the pads. On the 135i they also take up some space at the ends of the pads where they slide "in and out" as the brakes are applied or released. If the pads shims are not used, the pads will be looser in the caliper and may tend to rattle (?)
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      05-22-2018, 10:54 AM   #77
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Rear guide pins

Just replaced front rotors and pads no problem. In the rear the guide pins would just not move. Hammer them with a punch until the end of the pins was getting deformed. Tried turning them with vice grips. Removed the caliper from the car to get a better angle, still no luck. Any advice? Changed the rotor, left the old pads.
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      05-22-2018, 11:01 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135iblk2009 View Post
Just replaced front rotors and pads no problem. In the rear the guide pins would just not move. Hammer them with a punch until the end of the pins was getting deformed. Tried turning them with vice grips. Removed the caliper from the car to get a better angle, still no luck. Any advice? Changed the rotor, left the old pads.
They go in from the back, tap out from the front. Are you going in the right direction...
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      05-22-2018, 11:27 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
They go in from the back, tap out from the front. Are you going in the right direction...
This!
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      05-22-2018, 04:55 PM   #80
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Clarify

Iíve been trying to push them from the outside of the caliper inward. They look like they are tapered slightly, larger diameter on the inner side. Is this not correct?
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      05-22-2018, 05:48 PM   #81
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The outside should look like a small cone. The inside sits flush with the caliper. So by your description, I would agree the smaller diameter is on the outside.

You may also try pushing in on the spring clip. This can reduce tension on the pin and allowing you to punch it out. Though that typically requires someone to lend a third hand.

Edit to add, by inside and outside I really mean the inside and outside of the car. Just to clarify.
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      05-22-2018, 06:11 PM   #82
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Yes, the little cone ends peaking through the holes facing you.. thats what you put the punch on and tap.
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Last edited by boostm3; 05-22-2018 at 06:39 PM..
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      05-22-2018, 09:50 PM   #83
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Well i was doing it right then, they just wouldnít move at all. Used a punch and screwdrive. The cone shape is starting to deform from hitting it. When i had the caliper off the car i took the clip/spring out completely, loosened the pads, and clean all the surrounding areas. I guess ill take it to a shop. Called the dealer to see how much new pins are so its easier next time, $26 per pin, lol. A new bleeder valve $17, to replace the rusted one i have.
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      08-02-2018, 11:00 AM   #84
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Hawk DTC60/70's

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Originally Posted by Ruffan View Post
Long overdue Update:

The Carbotech pads I used were good, but ultimately they produced WAY too much noise to be useful as a replacement for stock pads and they were still not close to the level of pad I'd wanted for the track.

EDIT #1 (2010): My most recent track pad is the Hawk DTC 70 (w/ DTC 60 rear). These are true racing pads and are a world apart from stock when hot on the track. I am currently using a second set of stock front rotors, matched to the Hawk pads, as my track setup. Having separate rotors allows me to just swap and go, as opposed to having to bed the pads each time I swap street/track. EDIT: This year I added TiSpeed titanium backing plates to my setup to further insulate the brake fluid from the massive amount of heat our brakes generate. I can happily report that i had no brake fluid boiling issues in the 2010 season. Still wouldn't mind upgrading to an aftermarket big brake kit, but for now my setup is working well.

EDIT #2 (2012): Just to keep this up to date, I should admit that I finally replaced my stock calipers with Stoptech units and Endless pads. This mod was in conjunction with the move to Hoosier slick tires for the track and i can't begin to explain the difference on track with this setup. Ultimately I could not get comfortable with the performace level of the stock brakes and needed to make the change. If anyone is on the fence about this move please feel free to reach out because in retrospect is was absolutely worth it. By the way, with the Stoptechs I don't have to remove the calipers to change the pads!

I've switched my brake fluid to the Stoptech 660 racing fluid with which i had no issues all season.
My DD is a 135i manual w/RE71R's & stock binders but I race a NASA Spec3 (e36) that uses Hawk DTC-60's F&R. Between the race pads and Toyo RR's race tires, most folks can't appreciate the significant delta in performance. All other mods (springs, dampers, roll bars, bushings) are minor in comparison.
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      10-09-2018, 10:06 AM   #85
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I'll be doing this in the next 2 weeks or so. ANy advice not covered in any previous posts?
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      07-03-2019, 09:24 AM   #86
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Wow, thanks for sharing these cool tips. I love cars, but I am an ewriter and not that familiar with vehicles so your post truly helped me a lot!
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      07-03-2019, 10:20 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernDancer View Post
Way too soon. Did you not see little difference between your most worn and a new pad? Get yourself a Steelman manual brake guage set for less than $12 from Amazon or elsewhere.
Problem was with the Sensor.
Just had an inspection. OBD told them the rears were dangerously worn (2000 miles left.) They actually LOOKED and said "Nah. Brand new." (They were done, DIY by me, 1.5 years / 25,000 miles ago.) I did NOT replace the sesnsor when I did the rear pads - just plugged the old one back in. I didn't realize how it operates, and thought the interval could be updated electronically.
This time Fronts, OTOH, were shot - down to 3mm and rotors starting to score. I could wait until 2mm, but car was already there. I had them do OE rotors and my StopTech Street Performance pads up front, and BOTH sensors. Currently Vehicle Info tells me I've got 80,000 miles to go on the fronts, and 90,000 miles left on the rear brakes. Probably a bit optimistic, but sounds good!
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      07-03-2019, 10:48 PM   #88
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This thread should be re-titled 135i Brake Pad Replacement, just to avoid any confusion.
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