BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      02-04-2019, 10:33 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Jose View Post
A hitch is a bad idea. BMW recommends against installing one. Can't you people afford a work truck?
Can't you ever say anything useful?
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      02-04-2019, 11:17 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Jose View Post
A hitch is a bad idea. BMW recommends against installing one. Can't you people afford a work truck?
No, no I can't and I don't want one, but your negativity is always appreciated...
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      02-04-2019, 01:49 PM   #25
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Seems that I installed mine wrong.
I put the hitch behind the bumper. Directions clearly state not to do that. It goes on top.

Time to redo it correctly.

Directions --> https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlib..._11184_INS.PDF
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      02-04-2019, 08:26 PM   #26
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ugh. colder this time round. But done.

This is correct.
Doesn't feel any more stable though.
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      02-04-2019, 08:47 PM   #27
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Between the basket and the wheels, it looks like you are very close to 200 lb tongue weight - and it's centered about 2 ft behind the hitch. Do you have a hitch clamp in there on the 1-2" adapter? Or does it feel like the instability is from the hitch receiver flexing up & down under the load?
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      02-04-2019, 08:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdavisnpf View Post
Between the basket and the wheels, it looks like you are very close to 200 lb tongue weight - and it's centered about 2 ft behind the hitch. Do you have a hitch clamp in there on the 1-2" adapter? Or does it feel like the instability is from the hitch receiver flexing up & down under the load?

It's a twisting.

But I'm used to truck hitches and not this flimsy car junk.
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      02-05-2019, 08:00 AM   #29
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I didn't notice the carrier, just the spiked tires in that photograph. Because of the way this hitch is made with no support to the receiver after the attachment plate, I wouldn't use a carrier like this for anything heavier than a bicycle. I am worried that the up and down will break a weld. For that much weight, I would get something like this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1090-l...ler-62645.html

I pull the 4x8 version of this with 2 foot sides and it works well. I added LED lights and a spare wheel and tire. I've had this trailer for >10 years and it has not given me any trouble. I used to fold it up but I just leave it unfolded now. (to fold you have to remove the sides and it's kind of heavy for one person)

I used to use a carrier like the picture in the class 3 hitch of the SUV I gave my son when it started getting needy. I was more confident of that hitch but I still did not like the carrier. It rotates as well as goes up and down. I guess I just like trailers better.
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Last edited by JimD; 02-05-2019 at 08:13 AM.
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      02-05-2019, 09:29 AM   #30
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I was thinking about this as well. Looking at it strictly from an engineering standpoint, those tires are inducing a serious moment arm back at the attachment points. Assuming both tires weight about 50# each and the assumed distance from the end of the carrier back to the mount is 2ft, the simple math has it at 200ft/lb of torque from just dead weight. Add in a bounce and that number can go up drastically...


I agree that a small trailer would be the better answer for carrying tires.
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      02-05-2019, 01:22 PM   #31
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HF was out of the cheap trailer. Guy in front of me actually bought the last one in stock. It was on my mind but i went the cheap route. I won't say it's not going to work for the few times I need to haul them, but it's not the best option I feel.

The T bar will be a fair compromise. Get rid of the 1.25 to 2 adapter, move it all in. Gets rid of some slop and cuts the moment on the arm down significantly.
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      02-05-2019, 02:32 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
HF was out of the cheap trailer. Guy in front of me actually bought the last one in stock.
Funny you mention HF trailers. Last year around this time I started shopping for a replacement of my 30+ year old HF trailer. It was literally on it's last legs. I called HF and asked if they had any 4x8 trailers. "Yes" the women on the phone said, "but I can't sell it to you". I thought that was odd. As it turned out, NCDOT banned the HF trailer sales due to not passing DOT compliance, especially the tires. They may be available now...
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      02-05-2019, 04:36 PM   #33
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If you cannot get one in NC, you could always drop a little south and get one in SC. We don't even get titles or tags for small trailers in SC.

Since I recommended a HF trailer I will also say that when I bought mine what I actually got was an erector set with poor instructions. Several heavy boxes of metal and a really big bag of bolts. My son and I spent several hours bolting it all together. Nothing terrible about it but be prepared.

The paint on mine is starting to flake off and the floor is looking shabby (you have to provide your own plywood floor). I may pull the floor off and weld it up, I just got a MIG and it seems like it could help if survive plus feel a bit more solid.
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      02-06-2019, 08:58 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
If you cannot get one in NC, you could always drop a little south and get one in SC. We don't even get titles or tags for small trailers in SC.
Wow, no tags or title for "small" trailers in SC? Interesting. All trailers here in NC are tagged and titled. What's considered a small trailer? 4x8 or less?
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      02-06-2019, 11:02 AM   #35
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If the trailer weighs more than 2,500 lbs or is used in interstate commerce you have to get a plate. If it is a privately owned trailer weighing less than 2,500 lbs you do not need a plate. If you want to get one, you can get it for $10 and do not need a property tax receipt (since they are not registered you don't get a property tax bill).

So a little trailer like a HF would only need a tag if you used it in a business that crossed state borders.
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      02-06-2019, 12:51 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
If the trailer weighs more than 2,500 lbs or is used in interstate commerce you have to get a plate. If it is a privately owned trailer weighing less than 2,500 lbs you do not need a plate. If you want to get one, you can get it for $10 and do not need a property tax receipt (since they are not registered you don't get a property tax bill).

So a little trailer like a HF would only need a tag if you used it in a business that crossed state borders.
That's pretty nice not to have to pay taxes on yearly basis. My only concern here is theft. No title, no VIN and no way to track if stolen...
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      02-06-2019, 02:58 PM   #37
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Quote:
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I feel like a bit of a wimp now. I felt a tiny bit sorry for myself having to change my rear brakes in a wet garage (runoff from the car). It was about 60 here yesterday.

The picture reminds me of my father. He converted our garage to a family room when I was little. So car fixing was always in the driveway. He had a set of lined coveralls he would put on and go out and get it done. He didn't have the money to take it somewhere. He grew up on a farm and farmers also have to just get it done.
I'm in WI and replaced all 4 sets of pads in my unheated garage. I waited until it warmed up to 38-degrees last weekend. A small space heater tucked in the wheel well helped make things more bearable when I had to use bare hands to manipulate bolts.

I'd have killed for 60-degrees, but won't see that for at least 3 more months.
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      02-06-2019, 04:50 PM   #38
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We were 20 degrees or more cooler a week earlier and it was part of my excuse not to do it. My "Brake" red light has been on in the dash for 20K miles. I checked the pads and found they had 5-7mm of pad left so I was not anxious to replace but was also tired of the silly light. I replaced the rear sensor and put it behind the inner fender liner but didn't replace the front so I couldn't turn the light out. If I had replaced it before the pads it would just have worn again.

So some of my hesitation was not the weather - but a garage, even if a little damp, in 60 degree weather is worlds better than a driveway with snow on it in freezing temperatures. I didn't need to change my pads THAT badly.
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      02-08-2019, 06:20 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olds350 View Post
Funny you mention HF trailers. Last year around this time I started shopping for a replacement of my 30+ year old HF trailer. It was literally on it's last legs. I called HF and asked if they had any 4x8 trailers. "Yes" the women on the phone said, "but I can't sell it to you". I thought that was odd. As it turned out, NCDOT banned the HF trailer sales due to not passing DOT compliance, especially the tires. They may be available now...
It was a tire issue, and yes, they are available now.
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      02-08-2019, 06:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
If the trailer weighs more than 2,500 lbs or is used in interstate commerce you have to get a plate. If it is a privately owned trailer weighing less than 2,500 lbs you do not need a plate. If you want to get one, you can get it for $10 and do not need a property tax receipt (since they are not registered you don't get a property tax bill).

So a little trailer like a HF would only need a tag if you used it in a business that crossed state borders.
In VA the tag is $10, the title $39, and it is a permanent tag.
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      02-18-2019, 10:15 PM   #41
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My Curt Hitch arrived today, the wiring kit a few days ago. I will install it on Friday!
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      02-18-2019, 10:26 PM   #42
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My Curt Hitch arrived today, the wiring kit a few days ago. I will install it on Friday!
The tabs holding the sides of the bumper on are the hardest part. I used a plastic trim tool so as to not scratch anything, and I didn't.
But what I noticed after pulling it the second time is that the fender side of the hole on the bumper (just no good way to describe it) gets distorted some. So if you're anal about fit/finish and perfect body seams, really take you time there. You can push some and give a solid tug and it'll pop out, but there is the chance it can rip. Pushed down correctly it should about fall in your lap.
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      02-18-2019, 10:36 PM   #43
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      02-18-2019, 11:06 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
The tabs holding the sides of the bumper on are the hardest part. I used a plastic trim tool so as to not scratch anything, and I didn't.
But what I noticed after pulling it the second time is that the fender side of the hole on the bumper (just no good way to describe it) gets distorted some. So if you're anal about fit/finish and perfect body seams, really take you time there. You can push some and give a solid tug and it'll pop out, but there is the chance it can rip. Pushed down correctly it should about fall in your lap.
Are they different from the front bumper cover?
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