What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[desertman123]

Got the car back together! New radiator, thermostat->head hose (the plastic end broke when I removed it!), new upper/lower rad hoses.

Bilstein B12 kit installed it feels amazing!! Smoother ride, it follows the road much better and has a very subtle drop. I only had it on the ground for a few hours + driving around so it probably has a little bit more to settle.

[asiflicious]

I've been talking about it for months but I finally hit the bullet and ordered Koni Yellows and Eibach Pro springs, white line 2p subframe bushings, and an M Factory helical diff. Now I'm having a bit of buyers remorse because even though I knew it would obviously happen, actually seeing your bank account decrease that quickly is still a little heart wrenching. But ince all the parts arrive and are installed, I'm sure I'll be very happy

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

I've been talking about it for months but I finally hit the bullet and ordered Koni Yellows and Eibach Pro springs, white line 2p subframe bushings, and an M Factory helical diff. Now I'm having a bit of buyers remorse because even though I knew it would obviously happen, actually seeing your bank account decrease that quickly is still a little heart wrenching. But ince all the parts arrive and are installed, I'm sure I'll be very happy

I have parts in the garage to do the Whiteline 2-piece bushings and Konis+Eibachs. How are you planning to get the bushings out? The HPA tool?

I found this thread where vtl built a press using a fuel pump tool and some basic hardware. I bought a fuel pump tool off Amazon for $22 and some high-strength steel hardware from McMaster-Carr for $35. Hoping it arrives this weekend and if it works, I'll do a quick write-up.

[asiflicious]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

I have parts in the garage to do the Whiteline 2-piece bushings and Konis+Eibachs. How are you planning to get the bushings out? The HPA tool?

I found this thread where vtl built a press using a fuel pump tool and some basic hardware. I bought a fuel pump tool off Amazon for $22 and some high-strength steel hardware from McMaster-Carr for $35. Hoping it arrives this weekend and if it works, I'll do a quick write-up.

I'm not doing it myself, I'm having a friend of mine do all of the labor. I think he has a press but even if he doesn't I'm sure he'll find a way to get it out

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

I'm not doing it myself, I'm having a friend of mine do all of the labor. I think he has a press but even if he doesn't I'm sure he'll find a way to get it out

Ah, got it. That sounds much easier than my plan!

[Zombie_Head]

Climate control system flushed, refilled and disinfected.

They were able to flush out 330 grams of old freon/R134a, specs are 620 grams +/- 10 grams so it was nearly "half empty" so to speak, no leaks all good.

Tomorrow DIY workshop, small things to do here and there.

[minirips2]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Got the car back together! New radiator, thermostat->head hose (the plastic end broke when I removed it!), new upper/lower rad hoses.

Bilstein B12 kit installed it feels amazing!! Smoother ride, it follows the road much better and has a very subtle drop. I only had it on the ground for a few hours + driving around so it probably has a little bit more to settle.

How much lowering did you get from the B12 springs? I've been looking at that kit. Seems like lots of bang for your buck. My issue is that I drive through snow, so I don't want to lose too much clearance. I'm non-sport, so you were already a half inch or so lower than mine.

[low135]

Looking at going FBO with some additional upgrades and I ran upon this 3" intercooler hose upgrade for ARM's intercoolers. Does this look right? Or am I just not understanding how things are set up down there. Looks like these should be flipped? Doesn't the charge pipe come down and uses a small silicone "elbow" to mount to the intercooler?

[low135]

In googling other hose upgrade kits this looks correct. I guess I just don't really know how things are run down there

[Fakemike]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Bilstein B12 kit installed it feels amazing!! Smoother ride, it follows the road much better and has a very subtle drop. I only had it on the ground for a few hours + driving around so it probably has a little bit more to settle.

X2

Are you still using the OEM sport springs and you got a drop?

[1and1]

B12 Kit uses the Eibach Pro-Kit springs if I recall correctly

[HyeWarrior]

Originally Posted by low135

Looking at going FBO with some additional upgrades and I ran upon this 3" intercooler hose upgrade for ARM's intercoolers. Does this look right? Or am I just not understanding how things are set up down there. Looks like these should be flipped? Doesn't the charge pipe come down and uses a small silicone "elbow" to mount to the intercooler?

The connecting pipe between the intercooler and the chargepipe is a lot longer than you'd imagine (this is obviously on the driver side that I'm referring to). Some intercoolers reuse the OEM plastic pipe

[low135]

Originally Posted by HyeWarrior

The connecting pipe between the intercooler and the chargepipe is a lot longer than you'd imagine (this is obviously on the driver side that I'm referring to). Some intercoolers reuse the OEM plastic pipe

Thanks, that makes more sense I suppose. An aftermarket charge pipe would connect to the OEM plastic intercooler piping with a small silicone coupler where as this upgraded silicone hose would go directly from intercooler to charge pipe without the need for an additional silicone coupler.

[Zombie_Head]

Does anyone know, what is the torque on the M8x70 bolt holding the vibration absorber to the muffler?

I am guessing either 21 NM or 45 NM, but can not find it in the manual.

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Head

Does anyone know, what is the torque on the M8x70 bolt holding the vibration absorber to the muffler?

I am guessing either 21 NM or 45 NM, but can not find it in the manual.

Not sure, but as a collar screw - the threads have a much smaller OD than the shank, and won't take nearly the amount of torque you potentially supply with that head. Plus, if you crank it down too hard you'll risk negating the dampener and transmit vibration through the system. I'd go with the lower number.

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

26psi is nutty, what kind of power do you think it's pushing? Do you get any surges/cuts with the lack of fueling mods? I'd be watching my AFRs like a madman

It's a very rough tune. but works

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Not sure, but as a collar screw - the threads have a much smaller OD than the shank, and won't take nearly the amount of torque you potentially supply with that head. Plus, if you crank it down too hard you'll risk negating the dampener and transmit vibration through the system. I'd go with the lower number.

That is why i am asking, manual says nothing about that specific bolt.

But all bolts on the hangers and body are either 21 NM or 45NM.

FYI the bolt comes with loctite on the threads, so like you i suspect the 21 NM torque spec as well.

[low135]

Nothing big but sometimes small changes make a huge impact in how something looks. Got rid of the very aged looking halogen halo bulbs

[2Veloce]

Today I installed the rear carbon diffuser!

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by 2Veloce

Today I installed the rear carbon diffuser!

Looks great!

[2Veloce]

Originally Posted by Esteban

Looks great!

Thanks Esteban , I changed glossy to matt finish and changed the poor quality mesh for a better one

[Yeineken]

Bled the brakes 5 times now with a pressure bleeder and still get mushy brake on startup.

Anyone have any tips on bleeding after disconnecting rear calipers? Do I need to pony up and bleed them via INPA?