MILVS

[Thunderguts]

I don't know if my gearbox was abused by the previous owner or if it just doesn't like to shift quickly. I get the impression from talking with others that our gearboxes don't especially like to be rushed. If that's the case, I'm worried that going with something like a 3:73 ratio will exacerbate the problem. A 3:73 ratio is great in my Mustang, but's it's only a 5-speed. I'm definitely interested to hear you impression of the new differential before I decide to make the switch.

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

I don't know if my gearbox was abused by the previous owner or if it just doesn't like to shift quickly. I get the impression from talking with others that our gearboxes don't especially like to be rushed. If that's the case, I'm worried that going with something like a 3:73 ratio will exacerbate the problem. A 3:73 ratio is great in my Mustang, but's it's only a 5-speed. I'm definitely interested to hear you impression of the new differential before I decide to make the switch.

Once I get the chance to do it, I will update everyone. I have all the parts at home, just waiting for the perfect day to put it in.

While I'm doing it, I will be changing out my transmission fluid to Redline products. That's also what I will put in the rear diff.

How many miles are on your car? Mine has slightly below 70K, but the smoothness of the transmission in the car actually surprised me. But my Corvette has an upgraded tranny...so that may explain why they feel so different. Have you considered changing out your fluid?


I will say this...over all my years of modding, there are only two things that gave me the most Seat of the Pants improvement even when adding 100+hp to a car.

1. Gears
2. Swapping pulleys and upping boost on my old Terminator!

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

How many miles are on your car? Mine has slightly below 70K, but the smoothness of the transmission in the car actually surprised me. But my Corvette has an upgraded tranny...so that may explain why they feel so different. Have you considered changing out your fluid?


I will say this...over all my years of modding, there are only two things that gave me the most Seat of the Pants improvement even when adding 100+hp to a car.

1. Gears
2. Swapping pulleys and upping boost on my old Terminator!

Ha! I am the king of MTF changes. I changed the oil in my gearbox 4 times in 2 weeks to find something that made me happy. I do have the M Performance short shift kit which does increase the force required to shift gears. That being said, the best fluid for me was Red Line 30504 D4 Automatic Transmission Fluid. I also had 69k miles on my car when I got it. Given the similarities in our cars, I would say that's a good place to start. GM Synchromesh is my regular choice, but I tried both versions in my car and neither was as good as the Red Line.

Bolt-ons and a tune should get you close to 50 extra horsepower which should be fine for this car. It will never be the fastest car in a straight line, but damn it loves a curvy road!

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

Ha! I am the king of MTF changes. I changed the oil in my gearbox 4 times in 2 weeks to find something that made me happy. I do have the M Performance short shift kit which does increase the force required to shift gears. That being said, the best fluid for me was Red Line 30504 D4 Automatic Transmission Fluid. I also had 69k miles on my car when I got it. Given the similarities in our cars, I would say that's a good place to start. GM Synchromesh is my regular choice, but I tried both versions in my car and neither was as good as the Red Line.

Bolt-ons and a tune should get you close to 50 extra horsepower which should be fine for this car. It will never be the fastest car in a straight line, but damn it loves a curvy road!

I'm honestly really enjoying the car! Before it was like I were driving to go somewhere for fun...and I would be itching to drive the Vette. Now, I find myself not caring so much about what I'm driving.

I have everything sitting at home to bolt-on aside from the Milvs and then the tune. But I have been watching the forums pretty closely about the headers and idling issues. So much so that I may save that one for last and hope someone finds a definitive answer by then.

[varoadking]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

I'm honestly really enjoying the car! Before it was like I were driving to go somewhere for fun...and I would be itching to drive the Vette. Now, I find myself not caring so much about what I'm driving.

I have everything sitting at home to bolt-on aside from the Milvs and then the tune. But I have been watching the forums pretty closely about the headers and idling issues. So much so that I may save that one for last and hope someone finds a definitive answer by then.

Talk to Bob at BPC about your idling concerns...

Actually, talk to him about your entire build plan...

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by varoadking

Talk to Bob at BPC about your idling concerns...

Actually, talk to him about your entire build plan...

I've actually been in contact with someone named Randall over there. He's been very helpful and agrees that adding one variable at a time is best. Put it in, test that it's working properly, than move to the next.

I need to study the Milvs installation more. I definitely plan on them, but honestly looking at the head does give me a little concern about screwing something up.

I mean I've replaced cams in most of my cars, even going as far as fly cutting pistons in one build for valve clearance as I had the heads milled from 64cc to 59cc to bump compression.

But I'm still a newbie to these cars so I assume it's normal to feel that way. But I always err on the side of caution to!

[varoadking]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

I've actually been in contact with someone named Randall over there. He's been very helpful and agrees that adding one variable at a time is best. Put it in, test that it's working properly, than move to the next.

I need to study the Milvs installation more. I definitely plan on them, but honestly looking at the head does give me a little concern about screwing something up.

I mean I've replaced cams in most of my cars, even going as far as fly cutting pistons in one build for valve clearance as I had the heads milled from 64cc to 59cc to bump compression.

But I'm still a newbie to these cars so I assume it's normal to feel that way. But I always err on the side of caution to!

I understand...I wouldn't even attempt to install them, though many have with great success...

I had BPC install mine and then install the last of several tunes. I'm only about 3 hours away...

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by varoadking

I understand...I wouldn't even attempt to install them, though many have with great success...

I had BPC install mine and then install the last of several tunes. I'm only about 3 hours away...

They are about 4.5 hours from me. So I may go that route. The rear diff is done if you guys didn't see my other thread where I had a question during install.

So far....all is good. Car feels a lot more responsive and peppy, just livelier all around. The donor car that I got the carrier from had slightly over 19K miles on it. The fluid I pulled from it was in great shape, but I switched to Red line diff fluid anyway.

Everything is as smooth as before....so next up will probably be my 3 Stage Intake with a tune. From what I've read, this should make a nice little gain that can be easily felt after doing.

[varoadking]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

They are about 4.5 hours from me. So I may go that route. The rear diff is done if you guys didn't see my other thread where I had a question during install.

So far....all is good. Car feels a lot more responsive and peppy, just livelier all around. The donor car that I got the carrier from had slightly over 19K miles on it. The fluid I pulled from it was in great shape, but I switched to Red line diff fluid anyway.

Everything is as smooth as before....so next up will probably be my 3 Stage Intake with a tune. From what I've read, this should make a nice little gain that can be easily felt after doing.

Be sure to use genuine BMW DISA valves. See my issues elsewhere in this thread.

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by varoadking

Be sure to use genuine BMW DISA valves. See my issues elsewhere in this thread.

Yeah....I read through some of your luck. This intake came off a car with about $51K miles on it. I haven't even pulled the DISA valves out to check the condition of them.

Is it general consensus to just buy OEM replacements, or have others made the swap with the valves that came on the car but still replacing the bolts and soft stuff like gaskets?

I was hoping to maybe have a direct bolt on as it appears to be in excellent condition. Figured while it was out, I would do the OFHG as well since it will be as accessible as ever.

[varoadking]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

Yeah....I read through some of your luck. This intake came off a car with about $51K miles on it. I haven't even pulled the DISA valves out to check the condition of them.

Is it general consensus to just buy OEM replacements, or have others made the swap with the valves that came on the car but still replacing the bolts and soft stuff like gaskets?

I was hoping to maybe have a direct bolt on as it appears to be in excellent condition. Figured while it was out, I would do the OFHG as well since it will be as accessible as ever.

If you do elect to get new ones, and use BPC for the install, they will give you a 2 year warranty on the the valves if they furnish them...

[c1pher]

Disappointed, thought there would be some good photos, but then should have read thread title more carefully.:-/

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by MGM135is

Disappointed, thought there would be some good photos, but then should have read thread title more carefully.:-/

Sorry.

I wish I was more of a DIY creator, but honestly most of the time I'm flying by the seat of my pants .

Most of the mods I'm doing already have excellent DIY threads, so no use in reinventing the wheel.

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by MGM135is

Disappointed, thought there would be some good photos, but then should have read thread title more carefully.:-/

Also I see what you did there!

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by varoadking

If you do elect to get new ones, and use BPC for the install, they will give you a 2 year warranty on the the valves if they furnish them...

Cool.

Rethinking this whole process.....I know I will do my intake next. But I've been reading and seen that the guy that provides the MILVS has some new ideas he's working on. I may see what pans out before jumping straight to those.

I could always go to exterior mods for awhile after the intake and tune. I need to look and see what kind of gains people made from the intake and tune. I'm not sure if I ever seen a definitive dyno showing what the increases were. I'm figuring if I see 10-15 to the wheels....that's pretty good.

I know on my Corvette, the ported intake alone after being tuned was worth about 26/24 hp/tq at peak. But when overlayed with my stock dyno, the gains in the mid-range where 31/27 hp/tq. It made a huge difference you could easily feel.

Longtubes added another 30+. I guess I've become spoiled to how easily you can add power to an LS motor.

[asbrr]

Yea - concrete user dynos on intake alone will be tough to come by, as you will not get anywhere near the gains you saw on the LS. Some like Taskmaster have seen gains when the intake is combined with other mods, but overall the larger/more concrete gains are to be had with the manifold and MILVs.

Personally I will be passing on an intake and just doing the manifold - just found one with reasonable mileage off an X5 (not quite as low mileage as yours but not terrible).

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by asbrr

Yea - concrete user dynos on intake alone will be tough to come by, as you will not get anywhere near the gains you saw on the LS. Some like Taskmaster have seen gains when the intake is combined with other mods, but overall the larger/more concrete gains are to be had with the manifold and MILVs.

Personally I will be passing on an intake and just doing the manifold - just found one with reasonable mileage off an X5 (not quite as low mileage as yours but not terrible).

Same here. Just have the rev hose and a drop in K&N filter. Cold Air Intakes don't do much on the corvette either....the intake I put on was a ported intake manifold.


I've already looked it over, but plan to give it a good cleaning this weekend, and pull the DISA valves to see what kind of shape they look like to be in. If anything looks "Suspect" I will just swap them out.

I already have all the new hardware and gaskets to go back on. Still trying to decide if I should order that evap hose I read that so many people have issues with. If so, I e will need to research what part # it is.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

Same here. Just have the rev hose and a drop in K&N filter. Cold Air Intakes don't do much on the corvette either....the intake I put on was a ported intake manifold.


I've already looked it over, but plan to give it a good cleaning this weekend, and pull the DISA valves to see what kind of shape they look like to be in. If anything looks "Suspect" I will just swap them out.

I already have all the new hardware and gaskets to go back on. Still trying to decide if I should order that evap hose I read that so many people have issues with. If so, I e will need to research what part # it is.

Cool - let me know how you wash/clean it, I presume you'll take out the DISA valves and all ancillaries, should just be the main raw plastic piece at that point right? I wasn't sure if there are any metal pieces or anything internally to the manifold that will rust if washed through with water/anti-grease cleaner etc.

It's way too cold here for me to bother attempting this now, will be a spring project for me - look forward to your progress.

Oh - on the DISA valves - apparently one test you can do is plug the manifold into the covered connectors on your engine prior to install, and turn the ignition on. The valves should "cycle". Otherwise when you have them apart/out, check them for play in the shaft and smoothness of movement. I recall reading a few posts of people doing that...

[vtl]

Originally Posted by MGM135is

Disappointed, thought there would be some good photos, but then should have read thread title more carefully.:-/

Mom i'd like to... valve?

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by asbrr

Cool - let me know how you wash/clean it, I presume you'll take out the DISA valves and all ancillaries, should just be the main raw plastic piece at that point right? I wasn't sure if there are any metal pieces or anything internally to the manifold that will rust if washed through with water/anti-grease cleaner etc.

It's way too cold here for me to bother attempting this now, will be a spring project for me - look forward to your progress.

Oh - on the DISA valves - apparently one test you can do is plug the manifold into the covered connectors on your engine prior to install, and turn the ignition on. The valves should "cycle". Otherwise when you have them apart/out, check them for play in the shaft and smoothness of movement. I recall reading a few posts of people doing that...

From what I can see, disassembling the valves should be all it needs. Then some degreaser and soapy water, soak and clean it, then let it dry. I have read of people on here actually putting then through the "Gentle" wash cycle of their dishwasher although I don't think I will go that route.

I planned to inspect the sealing surfaces of the valves, make sure they are good and tight, and then doing just like you said and plugging them in to see if they cycle. I have new manifold bolts and gaskets.

It warmed up a little here, but supposed to turn back cold and rainy, so it may be a couple of weeks before I get to it. But I plan to order the evap hose today (just in case), and the gaskets needed to do an OFHG change since I don't think the car has ever had it done. I don't see any apparent leaks, but it will be right there and as easy as ever to replace it. I plan to do an oil change at the same time, so I can get the car on a schedule that I can track.

I will probably order the DISA gaskets as well just in case.

[desertman123]

This is how I did it

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by desertman123

This is how I did it

This is how I removed the springs on my N55 head:

It's really not that scary. Once the tension is relieved from the spring arms the top bolt can be undone without much drama. I use vice grips to hold the top ear of the spring in place as I remove the bolt and then released the vice grips slowly to relieve the remaining tension of the spring. Make sure valvetronic is set to minimum lift helps too...