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      06-14-2016, 02:43 AM   #23
phunky_monkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymil View Post
The Wagner evo comp 2 preformed flawlessly at my last track day, temps never exceeded 100 f

The ic is the best you can get in terms of cooling in the stock location but in summer it does struggle

These cars where never designed to run the power we are getting out of these cars in the Australian heat

I'm looking into upgrading to the jd75/advan big Ic

Seen the results and they where very impressive

But jd75 will have to step in and let you guys know the results

Look at it this way you will never need to upgrade the Ic ever again on these cars
Hey Marty, just wondering if you had any fitment issues with the Wagner? Mine bulges the underside of the front bar down a fair bit, scrapes over some speedbumps now. I posted a thread up a few weeks back, seems others experienced the same s it presses on the plastic liner underneath it. You can see how much further back the bolts sit compared with the underside of the bar in the pics below. Looks like it could use a trim, or perhaps see if a part form the 135i fits there instead.

Performance seems spot on though. Teamed with the VTT inlets throttle response is even better than before. Haven't taken IAT logs as yet, but will do that when we get some dry weather down here.

Build quality was also really nice, super happy with it.
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      06-14-2016, 04:18 AM   #24
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Take the middle screw out you really don't need it

Is yours screwed right up to the radiator support

Can't be any gap where the Ic flange screws to the plastic

But yes it does bulge it a little bit
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      06-14-2016, 04:48 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymil View Post
Take the middle screw out you really don't need it

Is yours screwed right up to the radiator support

Can't be any gap where the Ic flange screws to the plastic

But yes it does bulge it a little bit
Thanks mate.

I didn't install it, so I'll take a look in the light and see if it's bolted up hard against the rad support.

I don't mind the scraping under the bar, but it's concerning that it will transfer force and damage the core, especially as I have some suspension on its way which will bring it down another inch or so.
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      06-15-2016, 03:47 AM   #26
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I only lowered mine 30mm from standard and I find it to be the best for track and road

These front bars are very low from factory and lowering any more than 30mm is just asking for trouble

I'm had eibach springs on before but I installed the kW Spring kit and put it in the highest setting which is still
Lower than standard

The eibachs where seriously to low and the front bar would scrape everywhere, even on some dips in the road

But try removing the middle bolt and clip that should give you some more clearance
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      09-01-2016, 10:23 PM   #27
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Stopped by a local company (AD Engineering in Finley, WA) that custom makes N54 single turbo coversion kits and fabs their own intercoolers for N54's, nice operation, great guys. They also have a shop called Horsepower Barn for dyno tuning and custom installs. They were working on an N54 335i single turbo install when I stopped in and their work is incredible, factory quality fitment and install.

Anyway, they make an 3" stepped FMIC for the N54 capable of supporting 1000+ HP on a single turbo car. When I google them, that is the piece that comes up with a lot of hits. They do not recommend it for stock turbos or upgraded twins. They also have a 1" stepped unit that supports up to 650 horsepower and is volumetrically better suited to the twins. Quoted me $650 retail.

They have never installed it in a 1M, and noted that there is a fitment adjustment needed for auto transmission 135's due to the transmission cooler. I pointed out that we have the oil cooler and an accessory radiator. He took a look at my car and did not think it would effect install. They may be able to give me a deal on it if they install it on my car to verify fitment, and would custom fab any adjustments needed, which would allow them to do some 1M specific marketing.

So my car may be a test mule for a quality affordable FMIC . . . I'll keep you posted.
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      09-02-2016, 03:35 AM   #28
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Sounds awesome keep us posted !
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      09-19-2016, 07:10 PM   #29
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Install scheduled Wednesday. I hope to post pics and driving impressions by the end of the week.
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      09-21-2016, 01:47 PM   #30
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So, here are pics of the AD Engineering FMIC, the tubing was not welded to the end tanks before install so that they could verify fitment and adjust for the 1M if needed. Any adjustments they make specific to the 1M will be saved with jigs so that they can supply bolt-on FMIC's for 1M's in the future. This unit DOES require that the shroud attached to the front bumper cover be cut, but the black grille will still fully enclose it. It will mount to the radiator shroud tabs in the back.

Stock FMIC:


AD Engineering FMIC, basically similar size core to the back, with an additional 3" depth that is full width and 1" taller than the stock unit:


I will post a final pic and some functional impressions later today after the install is complete.
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      09-21-2016, 02:37 PM   #31
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Is the shroud that needs to be cut #7 in the picture?

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      09-21-2016, 04:11 PM   #32
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That is removed. The shroud is the ramp structure just behind the grille, and needs to be trimmed. I'll post a picture.
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      09-21-2016, 09:56 PM   #33
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Wow, I did not expect an upgraded FMIC to be so effective.

On my datalogging runs, I have typically seen a 35F temp rise doing a WOT run from 2k-6k RPMs. It would take the car several minutes to return to its baseline which when fully warmed up was about 18-20 degrees above ambient temps.

With this FMIC, still running the same tune, the baseline when fully warmed up appears to be 12-15 degrees above ambient temps and the only time I saw more than that was when sitting in traffic at a long stoplight. WOT runs do not produce any appreciable rise in temperature. At one point I did a WOT pull from 2k to 6.5k in 3rd gear up a 7% grade just to make it take longer and there was still only a 5 degree change at most, and it returned to baseline within seconds of lifting.

In summary, I don't think anyone should go down the road of tuning the car without an FMIC.

The AD engineering guys are awesome to work with, true car guys who love what they do. Their unit did not require any special modification to fit on the 1M, so it is a true bolt-on, but as mentioned above does require cutting the black air shroud behind the bumper. The bumper itself does NOT need to be modified. Here are pics:

With bumper off, you can see how well they trimmed the shroud to make it a perfect fit:


Final finished look, sorry about sun behind . . .


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      09-21-2016, 09:59 PM   #34
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Here are the datalogs, both using the same map. Click on the "air temp tb f" tab below the graphs to see the difference.

Before FMIC:
http://www.datazap.me/u/bjymewa/log-...=1&data=2-3-15

After FMIC:
http://www.datazap.me/u/bjymewa/log-...og=0&data=3-15
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      09-26-2016, 09:35 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie
Here are the datalogs, both using the same map. Click on the "air temp tb f" tab below the graphs to see the difference.

Before FMIC:
http://www.datazap.me/u/bjymewa/log-...=1&data=2-3-15

After FMIC:
http://www.datazap.me/u/bjymewa/log-...og=0&data=3-15
Looks great! Time for a less conservative tune.
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      10-01-2016, 02:44 PM   #36
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Working on it . . .

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      10-06-2016, 07:46 PM   #37
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How's this?
http://www.datazap.me/u/bjymewa/log-...og=1&data=3-15

Using the 1/4 mile function on the Cobb, I clocked a few runs 111-113.7mph on a straight level road. Times varied from 12.8 to 13.1, with launches severely traction limited.

I think the AP pulls from the analog speedometer and odometer, so it is probably more like 107-111mph over a distance of 0.23-0.24 miles. On the best run (113.7 by Cobb) I also used the M laptimer app which pulls speed and distance from GPS and it got 111 MPH at the 0.25 mile mark on that run. At an assumed weight of 3580lb for car and driver, that is pretty damn close to 400 whp.
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      10-12-2016, 08:20 PM   #38
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Also posted in the tune thread, but FYI:

Mods are in my sig. Cobb AP with custom tune by BuraQ for 92 Octane E10 pump gas.

RWHP and torque measured on a Dyno Dynamics, no corrections.

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      10-13-2016, 07:21 AM   #39
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The AD FMIC looks to be doing a great job, and Dimitri knows his stuff. You're in good hands.
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      10-17-2016, 02:26 PM   #40
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Forge has my vote for a bolt on. No clamps to deal with.
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      11-15-2016, 08:07 AM   #41
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https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...29267523757328
PlazmaMan fmic
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      11-15-2016, 08:35 AM   #42
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Personally, I will be going with the ER intercooler when the time comes. Anodized black.

http://evolutionracewerks.com/node/50

I personally feel this is the best one available.

Last edited by MightyMouseTech; 11-15-2016 at 08:54 AM..
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      02-10-2017, 02:46 AM   #43
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Looks like a 1 to 1.5 psi pressure drop. I just ordered this myself, and was impressed with thier build quality and decision to go deeper on the core and not taller. A smart solution imho.
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      02-12-2017, 12:03 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hot-j View Post
Looks like a 1 to 1.5 psi pressure drop. I just ordered this myself, and was impressed with thier build quality and decision to go deeper on the core and not taller. A smart solution imho.
Are you referring to the AD?
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