|
|
|
01-31-2015, 05:47 PM | #24 |
Civil Rights Activist
115
Rep 949
Posts |
JB4..
Just so darkrom doesn't yell at you ;]
__________________
E88 Crimson Red Vert MSport 6MT - Listing your mods in your signature is lame. BMS DCI/MHD E30 Flash!!/AA Sport FMIC/VRSF CP w Tial BOV/VRSF 3" DPs/550i clutch w SPEC SMFW/Apex EC-7s/Whiteline RSFB/E92 M3 FCAs/Bilstein B12 Pro Kit/VRSF inlets |
Appreciate
0
|
04-14-2015, 08:51 PM | #25 | |
New Member
4
Rep 17
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-22-2015, 01:01 PM | #26 | |
New Member
4
Rep 12
Posts |
Quote:
I'm not Steve but I'm most likely best to answer this for you. I too live in NJ and have gone through the same panic. I have VSRF DP's installed with a JB4 AND VSRF DP fix. You need BOTH to pass NJ inspection. Below is why and I apologize in advance for my lack of technical lingo. They changed NJ inspection a few years back and they no longer can fail you on emissions. They only look under to car to see if you have mid-cats (visibly) and check for error codes. Here is why you need the DP fix. When they connect the cable from their computer to your car to read for codes, the readings only pass when JB4 is on map 0 (disabled). Last year I had my JB4 on map 5 and their computer was clicking like crazy and they were about to fail me. Luckily the guy let me hop in my car and change to map 0 and I immediately passed. You cannot depend on the JB4 auto clear option to pass inspection since you need to disable the JB4 to pass! The DP fix takes care of this by preventing any DP sensory error codes regardless of what state the JB4 is in. If you installed your own JB4 than the DP fix should be no problem. It comes with instructions and gets installed in the same place as the JB4. To make things simple, I would uninstall the JB4 and return the ECU to stock, install the DP fix and check to make sure it's working. Than reinstall JB4. Just to give you an idea, here is a site with some screenshots of identical instructions: View post on imgur.com Again, it's a very easy install I hope this helps bro. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-23-2015, 01:08 PM | #27 |
New Member
4
Rep 17
Posts |
Thanks, Jermz! You made your first post a meaningful one. By the way, I bought my car from Bridgewater. I'll let you know how everything turns out.
Last edited by BillOne; 04-23-2015 at 01:17 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-24-2015, 02:46 PM | #28 | |
New Member
4
Rep 12
Posts |
Quote:
-Kevin |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-08-2015, 10:09 PM | #29 |
New Member
4
Rep 17
Posts |
HELP!!! I took my car in and failed inspection for Catalytic Converters, Evaporative System and Oxygen sensors. The only thing I can think of is that I didn't fully cycle the car after installing the DP fix. However, after driving maybe 30 miles my engine light came on. Now I'm really confused because I thought that the DP fix was supposed to kill the check engine light. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? I suppose I need to adjust the DP fix. Should I even see my check engine light even though I have the DP fix installed? Thanks!
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-17-2015, 08:26 AM | #30 | |
Colonel
190
Rep 2,227
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-19-2015, 07:04 PM | #31 | |
New Member
4
Rep 17
Posts |
Quote:
darkrom, I really appreciate your reply! I've been so busy with work that I haven't had time to deal with this, but my dead line is June 30th, so I need to fix this soon. I procrastinated for far too long... I appreciate any help you can give. After tweaking(counter clockwise) the Xkitty DP fix a little my check engine light came on fairly quickly after just a short drive so I knew I adjusted it too much(too strong). I checked the thrown codes using my JB4 tune and got 2C31 & 2C6A. I then cleared the codes and tweaked the DP Fix clockwise(weaker) and now the check engine light remains off, but I'm still getting the two same codes when I pull over and check it. I've only driven 10-15 miles total, so maybe that's the problem? Should I leave the JB4 auto clear function on with map zero, or auto off with map zero? Are you saying that the codes will clear themselves if I drive enough miles and it properly cycles? Thanks!!!! Last edited by BillOne; 06-20-2015 at 11:37 PM.. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-19-2015, 09:45 PM | #32 |
Colonel
190
Rep 2,227
Posts |
Autoclear has to be off. Clear all codes manually. Drive for about 100 miles to make sure they don't come back. I believe autozone will "check your readiness" for free too, so have them do it before you go pay for the test.
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-20-2015, 11:53 PM | #33 | |
New Member
4
Rep 17
Posts |
Quote:
So what you are saying is that if I get another check engine light, I'll need to immediately pull over and adjust the DP Fix and start over, correct? My last few tries I drove about 10 miles in fairly heavy traffic and the light did not come on, but when I finally parked and checked the codes using my JB4 tune, I threw the same two(2C31 &2C6A) as I listed in my last post. Again, are you suggesting that I manually clear the codes, adjust the DP Fix, then carry on with the drive cycle, or do I refrain from touching anything and simply carry on and keep driving with the check engine light on and wait for it to clear itself? Forgive me for being anal, but I wanted to break this down step by step to cover all bases so I don't make any stupid mistakes and keep bothering you. I'm running out of time... Thanks! Bill |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-21-2015, 07:57 AM | #34 |
Colonel
190
Rep 2,227
Posts |
You need to clear all codes. Drive cycle. If it interrupts it you need to adjust it and clear the codes. Basically you need to complete a drive cycle without it throwing a code. Every time you throw a code or clear codes, you need to start over.
The easiest way is just drive a ton without getting a light, go to autozone and have them test your readiness. |
Appreciate
0
|
08-17-2015, 05:24 PM | #35 | |
New Member
4
Rep 12
Posts |
Quote:
Hey Bill, Sorry for the delay in response! I have been traveling a lot for work. At about a month late, I'm sure you have fixed this by now, but just in case, I've posted: You have been given good direction with the above responses. You should clear codes manually and then set auto clear to off. You need to make slight adjustments to the DP Fix dial and drive (I believe its 70 miles but go 100 to be safe). If the check engine light comes back on, manually clear codes, slightly adjust the DP Fix again and then drive around for another 100 miles. If you go 100 miles and the light doesn't come back on, your DP Fix is emulating the correct sensor reading, if the light comes back on, repeat. The DP Fix instructions tell you what setting to start with and what direction to turn the dial for each adjustment. It's not likely that the DP fix will work perfectly off the bat without making any adjustments. What you experienced is normal! It took me 3 or 4 adjustments before I got the right one. Let me know if you need anything as I should be more active! |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-30-2017, 12:30 PM | #36 | |
1Lover
125
Rep 190
Posts |
Quote:
I have tried the DME reset: Press start, floor gas 30 seconds, press start again. I have also been using the proper driving methods to get a readiness state as well. (Cold start 2mins 10, 20-30 MPH 3minutes 15, 40-60 15-20 minutes, no over 3k RPM no over 60 MPH) 2 days ago I cleared all codes (had none) to reset all readiness states and try to get this final one to come up. I've also re-flashed with MHD back to stock. Here is a quick rundown of what I've done in what order. Install DP fix Drove around for 2-3 weeks (2 cat readings incomplete still) Flashed back to stock with MHD (now just one cat incomplete after some driving) Gas Pedal DME reset - More Driving (still one incomplete) Clear All Codes with MHD (still one incomplete) Any advice greatly appreciated!
__________________
Monaco Blue/Coral Red | MHD BE Flash | RI M1 Bumper | VRSF 7" FMIC | aFe DCI Intake | AR Catless DP | ER CP & Tial Q BOV | H&R Springs | VMR 18" | Black Gloss Grills | aFe Air Intake Scoops | MFactory SMFW | 335is Clutch | Blacked Out Side Markers | Carbon Fiber Deck Spoiler | LUX LED Angel Eyes | BMW Aluminum Pedals | BMS OCC | Mishimoto OCC | RB Turbo External PVC Kit | JB4 w/ Wireless | PR Stage 2 Fuel Pump | BMS SSK
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-18-2018, 06:32 AM | #38 |
New Member
1
Rep 16
Posts
Drives: 08 335 xi
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: San Francisco
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-18-2018, 10:51 AM | #39 |
Member
159
Rep 269
Posts
Drives: 2012 E92 335i M-Sport
Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Diego, CA
|
MHD all the way, especially if it's your DD.
__________________
12’ E92 335i 6AT - Alpine White M-Sports Package
Mods - | MHD Stage2+ ACN91 OTS Map | K&N Drop-in | VRSF Kittenless D0wnpipe | VRSF CP | VRSF 7” FMIC | xHP Stage 3 | Euro Headlight Switch | Avant Garde M359 | Michelin PS4S |
Appreciate
0
|
01-18-2018, 11:11 AM | #40 |
Banned
13871
Rep 14,519
Posts
Drives: Audi S3....don't judge me
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Alph Ceti VI
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|