e82 - 135i N54 - 2A82 Intake Vanos Code & 3100 boost deactivation plus piston damage?

[gordon513]

Hi all

After a little bit of help or to see if anyone has run into the same problem. I have a 59 plate N54 135i with FBOs and MHD stage 2+ flashed - c.113k miles.

I am currently getting the 2A82 VANOS intake code along with the 3100 boost cut.

I've changed the intake VANOS solenoid (brand new from BMW), cleaned out the VANOS check valves, checked the oil filer cap to ensure the cage is there (seems fine but have ordered a brand new one to be on the safe side but assume I would be getting intake and exhaust side codes if this was the case?) and done an oil change with a genuine filter.

In addition I've tried to reset VANOS adaptations but still with no luck! I've also confirmed I'm getting the correct voltage on the power and DME side of the solenoid plug.

Whilst I was doing the oil filter housing gaskets the other day, I had a look down on the valves and they're are pretty carbon'd up - might this be causing the issue? (Would have thought unlikely).

This leads me to think that it must be the intake cam ledges which will be a real pain! I'm happy to DIY it but more I don't really want to pay the £500 a piece or whatever the clamshells are now from BMW. I have found a second hand set on Ebay but its very hard to tell if they too will already be damaged to be essentially useless.

Would appreciate it of anyone has any bright ideas?

I'm leaning on it being the cam ledges as it only seems to do it when the oil is v hot - 105 degrees c plus - so often on a long drive it won't do it but then the moment I start driving around town it comes up. Idle seems a little lumpy but not hugely so.

The one thing I haven't tried is re-flashing the car to stock and seeing if the issue persists - but again think this is unlikely.

Apart from the above - I'm pretty stuck for ideas!

I am going to be posting on a couple of forums to try and reach the largest audience but will be sure to update all threads with any revelations/ good advice given!

Many thanks in advance


Edit:

Spent some time this weekend compression testing. Results were good; 175psi across the board. However, I also used a borescope to have a look at each of the pistons and found some strange things.

Cylinder 1 - there looks to be quite a lot of stuff stuck to the piston (bottom right corner) plus what looks like to be a bit of wire in the middle? Any idea what this is ? I couldn't move it around.

Cylinder 4 - looks like a chip in the top right had corner? Any ideas?

Cylinder 5 - the most scary one - there is a big cut where there is clearance for one of the intake valves - it looks quite new as its shiny. What would have caused this? A valve hitting the piston? I would have thought that if this was the case, I would have lower compression in that cylinder?

Injectors:

Some of the pistons looked a little wet (including the spark plugs) and there was a smell of fuel. Is there anyway of checking if the injectors are leaking? I seem to have a mix of index 7 & 9 injectors and then one random one (can't work out what it is - maybe aftermarket)

Pics below:

[F31B48]

I would try flashing back to stock first, it doesn't cost anything to do it.

You could also try swapping the intake and exhaust camshaft sensors around.

[gordon513]

Originally Posted by EvaBmw

I would try flashing back to stock first, it doesn't cost anything to do it.

Agreed - I will give that a go tomorrow and will report back - cheers

[F31B48]

Also maybe worth unplugging the DME and checking there is no moisture or oil in the connectors if you haven't done that already. I have seen camshaft sensors leak oil into the connector and travel all the way up the loom into the DME.

[gordon513]

Will check that tomorrow too - its just interesting that I'm only getting that one intake VANOS code and not anything for Cam position - other threads I've seen people also get codes for position

[F31B48]

Yeah its probably a long shot, but stranger things have happened.

Do you have ISTA? And also have you checked the wiring to the vanos solenoid and camshaft sensor for high resistance?
That's about all i can think of other than going balls deep and pulling the valve cover and camshafts etc which will be expensive.
From memory i think ISTA lists the possible causes of vanos faults as either the solenoid and/or wiring, the camshaft sensor and/or wiring, incorrect oil level, incorrect camshaft timing or worn bearing ledges.

[gordon513]

Originally Posted by EvaBmw

Yeah its probably a long shot, but stranger things have happened.

Do you have ISTA? And also have you checked the wiring to the vanos solenoid and camshaft sensor for high resistance?
That's about all i can think of other than going balls deep and pulling the valve cover and camshafts etc which will be expensive.
From memory i think ISTA lists the possible causes of vanos faults as either the solenoid and/or wiring, the camshaft sensor and/or wiring, incorrect oil level, incorrect camshaft timing or worn bearing ledges.

I don't have ISTA - been reading codes on BimmerLink/ MHD.

What would high resistance signify? A failed sensor?

I have pretty much checked all of those items apart from changing the CAM sensor - maybe that is worth doing before I pull off the valve cover. Would it be more likely that I would get a cam position code if this was at fault?

I'm annoyed as I have literally just changed the valve cover gasket but wasn't having this issue then.

The irony is the car runs very well - very decent power and think it sounds fine.

Yeah the cam ledges will be expensive - there aren't very many low millage second hand ones for sale in the UK. Have found a couple but hard to tell if they are also damaged without seeing them

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by gordon513

I don't have ISTA - been reading codes on BimmerLink/ MHD.

What would high resistance signify? A failed sensor?

I have pretty much checked all of those items apart from changing the CAM sensor - maybe that is worth doing before I pull off the valve cover. Would it be more likely that I would get a cam position code if this was at fault?

I'm annoyed as I have literally just changed the valve cover gasket but wasn't having this issue then.

The irony is the car runs very well - very decent power and think it sounds fine.

Yeah the cam ledges will be expensive - there aren't very many low millage second hand ones for sale in the UK. Have found a couple but hard to tell if they are also damaged without seeing them

High resistance of the wiring would indicate a corroded or poorly crimped terminal, or damaged wire. It's pretty unlikely that this is the case but it's part of the diagnostic procedure outlined in ISTA so definitely worth testing for. Plus these cars are getting on a bit now so you never know what the history of the car is.

[gordon513]

Originally Posted by EvaBmw

High resistance of the wiring would indicate a corroded or poorly crimped terminal, or damaged wire. It's pretty unlikely that this is the case but it's part of the diagnostic procedure outlined in ISTA so definitely worth testing for. Plus these cars are getting on a bit now so you never know what the history of the car is.

Okay brilliant - will also have a check of that. Do you happen to know what a reasonable reading would be? I'll pull out the multi meter later

[F31B48]

Should be about 1 ohm with the sensor/solenoid and DME disconnected.

[Tyc0]

Welcome to the club, you need cam ledges and I say that with 90% certainty. I was in the same boat doing all the things you did and I did not want to believe I needed to pay for those expensive ass ledges. But that was indeed my problem. Maybe you will get lucky like me and only need to replace one ledge, while still changing to the updated seals.

BTW the diy is not bad if you have taken the valve cover off before. I found it to be sort of satisfying once in there.

[gordon513]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

Welcome to the club, you need cam ledges and I say that with 90% certainty. I was in the same boat doing all the things you did and I did not want to believe I needed to pay for those expensive ass ledges. But that was indeed my problem. Maybe you will get lucky like me and only need to replace one ledge, while still changing to the updated seals.

BTW the diy is not bad if you have taken the valve cover off before. I found it to be sort of satisfying once in there.

Hi there

apologies, I didn't get a notification for your post but appreciate hearing about your experience.

Ironically I did the valve cover gasket a couple of weeks ago! Hopefully I'll be able to save it when I get around to doing these cam ledges.

What millage was your car when they failed? Mine is only got 113k which seems low compared to the others. I haven't had the car too long but service history looks fine - maybe I'm just unlucky?

I'm guessing you went with new cam ledges and bought the cam locking tool?

[gordon513]

Added some strange things observed on the pistons in the original post and questions regarding leaking/ failing injectors - if anyone has any ideas; let me know!

Thanks

[Tyc0]

I actually had 20k less miles than that and they were causing a persistent limp mode after ~30 minutes of driving. I did buy the cam locking tool but not the other tool which is used to align the cams. I would sell you the locking tool for very cheap if you end up doing it yourself.

Also it has nothing to do with luck, this was an issue from the factory due to a metal seal that they used in early model year n54's. The metal seal will eventually eat into the ledge an cause low oil pressure for the vanos system leading to limp mode and vanos codes. They updated to a Teflon seal which is what you would change to if you end up doing it.

[gordon513]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

I actually had 20k less miles than that and they were causing a persistent limp mode after ~30 minutes of driving. I did buy the cam locking tool but not the other tool which is used to align the cams. I would sell you the locking tool for very cheap if you end up doing it yourself.

Also it has nothing to do with luck, this was an issue from the factory due to a metal seal that they used in early model year n54's. The metal seal will eventually eat into the ledge an cause low oil pressure for the vanos system leading to limp mode and vanos codes. They updated to a Teflon seal which is what you would change to if you end up doing it.

When I say luck I more mean my car seems to be lower millage to the other ones I have seen but given your experience, it does sound like it could well be the case.

I've been trying to work out when they changed to the teflon rings and which ones I have - have seen some different information from various sources.

Some say they only used them for a couple of years whereas other says they only changed them when the n55 came out. Mine is a 2010 car. I guess the only way to find out is to actually have a look!

I would take you up on the locking tool offer - however I am in the UK and think you are in the states? Unless you could ship across the pond?

I don't fancy buying the clamps - think I will use zip ties which I have seen others do.

[Tyc0]

I believe they changed it to the new seals in mid 2009, but I very well could be wrong.

Yes I am in the states so that wouldn't work. I bought it on Amazon for around $80 I think, so not too bad.

[gordon513]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

I believe they changed it to the new seals in mid 2009, but I very well could be wrong.

Yes I am in the states so that wouldn't work. I bought it on Amazon for around $80 I think, so not too bad.

See this does make me wonder if this is actually my issue - my car has a production date of 12/2009 so probably has the updated ones?

[gordon513]

As an update:

I found the time to replace the intake ledge and seals over the easter bank holiday weekend last week. All in all, a pretty easy job but relatively time consuming with the number of bolts/ things that need to come off and then go back on.

Annoyingly I broke a brittle coolant line whilst putting the car back together and so was only able to test drive last night.

So far no more VANOS codes!

Interestingly my car already had the new teflon seals but the ledges were still in a right old state (pics below). I don't know whether someone had already changed them without replacing the ledge or they were from factory. The build date on my car is 12/2009 which is supposedly the last month of the metal rings.

In the pics below I have highlighted the issue for anyone who doesn't know what it looks like. There should be no groove at all in theory. You can see very clearly how deep the groove is by looking at the left hand side of the highlighted blue circle.

A few tips for people attempting this:

1. Buy a digital angle torque wrench - I did the cam tray bolts with a angle wheel which was a real pain with the lack of room to work with
2. Replace the intake & exhaust cam tray - I stupidly only bought the intake side and regret this as the exhaust side was pretty messed up and so I'm sure it will go at some point (even with the new teflon rings)
3. If you haven't already, replace the valve cover gasket and OFHG at the same time - saves you having to pull the cover again which is half the prep work
4. For my fellow UK N54 owners - if you're looking for second hand cam trays, the N53 uses the same part number. These were cheaper on ebay (as for whatever reason, it seems not to really be an issue on the N53 cars)

Pics below: