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03-06-2018, 08:30 AM | #45 |
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Oil temperature gauge is behaving like an instantaneous mpg gauge, but I just need to code it in Tool32 when I have the chance. Everything's working with no tamper dot or fault codes generated...
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03-06-2018, 07:14 PM | #46 |
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EVERYTHING WORKS! Had to do some fairly easy coding with Tool32, but that was it...
A DIY with instructions for the coding I had to do is coming soon...
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03-07-2018, 08:44 AM | #47 |
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Congrats!!! I'm looking forward to a proper DIY
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03-07-2018, 08:47 AM | #48 |
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With pictures, of course!
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04-02-2018, 05:08 PM | #49 |
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I have noticed one problem just recently: the tacho doesn't read correctly. I know what the problem is (it thinks the gauge reads to 7k, not the 8k on the 135i cluster), but I haven't found a solution to this after about 15 mins of googling around. I know I need to change a coding parameter, but I don't know which one...
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12-15-2018, 12:20 PM | #50 |
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Hi Chris,
Have been following your thread & build. I'm in Australia and looking at a 135 Cluster for my 125. Looking at a overlay swap with 7grand redline Have you finished the DIY with instructions for the coding. Regards Brett Last edited by 125I E87 COUPE; 12-15-2018 at 12:29 PM.. |
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12-15-2018, 03:27 PM | #51 | |
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Quote:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing Before doing that, you need to open up both clusters: 1. Gently pry the little tabs to open up the outer shell 2. Pull the two halves apart 3. Pull the rear cover off of the inner assembly using the tabs on the connector, and disconnect the ribbon cable running to the LCD displays 4. Remove the indicator needles a. Get a small piece of paper, cut a small 1-2mm slit in it b. Place the small piece of paper underneath the hub of the needle c. Move the needles down to their stops, and mark that location on the white plastic of the inner assembly d. Use a thin fork or knife and pop the needle off the motor shaft, it will take a little bit more force than you'd think, BE SURE TO LEVER IT STRAIGHT UP e. Remove gauge faces and light ducts5. Locate both EEPROMs (I don't have any pictures) mine was a model 080D0WQ, and then: a. Are they both the same? If yes, procede to Step 6. If no, then I'm sorry, but this may not work for you (it may be worth trying).6. Remove EEPROM from the PCB 7. Swap your car's original EEPROM into the 135i cluster, ensure that solder connections are good and clean 8. Re-assemble cluster: a. Cut fuel gauge face off of 128i tachometer, and cut oil temp gauge face off of 135i tachometer. Splice the 128i tach with the oil temp gauge face. MAKE SURE YOU CUT SO THAT THERE IS SOME OVERLAP TO PREVENT LIGHT LEAKAGE. Tape them together on the back b. Snap rear cover back on and connect LCD ribbon cable c. Install light ducts and both gauge faces d. Make sure motor shafts are at their low reading stops, then press needles on to match the location you marked on the white plastic. PRESS STRAIGHT DOWN. e. Install two outer shells, and snap together9. Plug the cluster into your car and ensure there are no obvious faults (implausible odometer reading, tamper dot, weird lights, etc.) 10. Follow coding instructions above, and voila!
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12-16-2018, 06:16 AM | #52 |
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Thanks Chris,
Appreciate that will give it a go. I'm still looking at getting an New 135 Instrument Overlay done. So I shouldn't have to splice hopefully. Regards Brett |
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01-03-2019, 08:01 PM | #53 |
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sheesh for a guy that pushes the NA agenda...you sure are slowly building a 135i.. hahahah
ill make it easy.. buy my 135 and ill remove the turbo before i hand u the keys..
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01-03-2019, 10:39 PM | #54 | |
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Tempting... NOT!
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01-04-2019, 09:29 AM | #56 | |
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Never... What do ya think? A quart of oil every 1k miles?
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01-04-2019, 04:19 PM | #57 |
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..
hahaahahah that oil remark was a below the belt blow!!!
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01-13-2019, 04:07 PM | #58 |
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I'm in the process of doing this swap as well. However, I'm having some issues with the r270 programmer.
Everything installed fine but when I went to read the 080D0WQ EEPROM, after giving it 5 minutes it was still waiting for a response from the EEPROM (Beeping every second or so and the LED not lighting up.) I thought maybe I had the EEPROM in the programmer connector backwards so I stopped the read and closed everything out to re-orient the chip. When powering backup the programmer immediately started beeping again (It does not stop as long as the programmer is getting 12V!). Now when I try to read the EEPROM it says "check wire" in the dialog box and never progresses further. All connections look good and the programmer is showing up in the device manager. I tried putting the EEPROM in the original orientation I had it but still get the "check wire" message. When I click to stop the read I get an error message saying "internal error retrieving device control block for the port" and it won't stop the read process so I have to close the application in the task manager. Obviously something is messed up, but I'm not sure if it's the programmer or the EEPROM at this point. I haven't been able to turn up anything on what the beeping from the programmer indicates. Can anyone shed some light on whether the programmer is supposed to beep during normal operation and if the LED is supposed to be illuminated? In the mean time I guess I'll order some new EEPROMs. |
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03-29-2019, 03:01 PM | #59 |
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Hey so you can use Perfekt Toolbox (Google it) to calibrate the needles, I kept the full 135i rpm guage face and tested it to read the proper RPM (also used this to enable and calibrate the oil temp gauge)
Also here's a pic of the orientation of the EEPROM. I just soldered mine onto the new cluster (same model #). |
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03-29-2019, 07:09 PM | #60 | |
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Welcome to the oil temp club!
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