BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      03-02-2018, 02:12 AM   #23
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I believe you need to reset the odometer to 0.

I myself ordered a used 130i cluster to monitor the oil temperature, the seller informed me that they can code the car for me, all they need is the complete chassis number.

They then informed me that it will be coded to my vehicle and reset to 0, the milage will automatically get to the correct values once the gauges read the other ecus. Still waiting for delivery myself.

You can also (so i heard) install a 330ci or 335i gauge cluster with some sanding.
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      03-02-2018, 06:09 AM   #24
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I have done a bunch of M3 cluster swaps on 335is here in Australia

You don't just swap the eeprom across.

What you need to do is to read the 135i cluster's eeprom and overwrite the vin number with your vin number. It is simply stored in ASCII in the eeprom. For an M3 cluster the memory location was at address 2E8 on the eeprom, but might be different on a 135i. Pretty easy to find, as the VIN is just stored as ASCII. For example if the donor cluster was 'VF12345' you would see that in the memory and you would just replace it with your VIN.

Also, if the mileage of the donor cluster is greater than your cluster, you must set that to zero first. You must erase the first 32 bytes of memory which is where the mileage is stored. This is usually not possible with a generic eeprom programmer but should be possible with your R270. If you do not follow this step, then your mileage will take on the bigger mileage! If the donor cluster has less miles then you are good and do not need to worry about it.
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      03-02-2018, 08:47 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
I have done a bunch of M3 cluster swaps on 335is here in Australia

You don't just swap the eeprom across.

What you need to do is to read the 135i cluster's eeprom and overwrite the vin number with your vin number. It is simply stored in ASCII in the eeprom. For an M3 cluster the memory location was at address 2E8 on the eeprom, but might be different on a 135i. Pretty easy to find, as the VIN is just stored as ASCII. For example if the donor cluster was 'VF12345' you would see that in the memory and you would just replace it with your VIN.

Also, if the mileage of the donor cluster is greater than your cluster, you must set that to zero first. You must erase the first 32 bytes of memory which is where the mileage is stored. This is usually not possible with a generic eeprom programmer but should be possible with your R270. If you do not follow this step, then your mileage will take on the bigger mileage! If the donor cluster has less miles then you are good and do not need to worry about it.
Thanks! I just ordered a programmer to rewrite the EEPROM. The donor cluster had 89k and my car has 170k. I also ordered a fresh EEPROM in case I somehow damaged mine...
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      03-02-2018, 12:25 PM   #26
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Got a chance to read some codes with Carly:

From 128i Cluster (EEPROM swapped out and into 135i cluster, and then back again):
-Air suspension failure (the hell?) 00A3C7
-CAN signal fault transmission (thinks I have an auto?) 00A3AA
-trailer module fault (no trailer here) 00A3C0
-EEPROM failure (that explains something) 009317
-Error-coding data supplier (related to EEPROM?) 00931E
-Phone failure (no phone in my car) 00A554
-CAN NO ID (no idea on this one) 00A3A8

From 135i Cluster (EEPROM removed, 128i one installed, original re-installed):
-EEPROM failure 009316
-EEPROM failure 009317
-Error-coding data supplier 00931E
-CAN NO ID 00A3A8
-Air suspension failure 00A3C7
-trailer module fault 00A3C0
-Tank level error 009319

A new EEPROM is on-the-way, along with a programmer.

vtl with a blank EEPROM, would I still need to program it, or will it just grab the data from another module?
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      03-03-2018, 02:57 AM   #27
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chris_flies

I saw your PM but figured I will answer here as the information is quite poor on the internet, and everyone wants to profit off the info

Keep the original EEPROM in the 135i cluster

Clear all codes first, then re-read them. Do they still persist?

Your mileage is higher than the 135i cluster, you do not need a new eeprom and you do not need to write your mileage to the eeprom. Since the odometer is stored in the CAS and the KOMBI, it will simply take the highest number and write your mileage to the cluster. The only thing you need to do is to read the data out of the 135i eeprom, edit the VIN to your vin and you are done.

Coding is done via NCSExpert. If you set the profile to expert mode, then perform SG_CODIEREN this will code the cluster according to your VO. If the temperature gauge still tries to show your fuel mileage, you will need to edit that option manually and code the car in 'FSW PSW' profile instead of expert mode. You can use a tool called NCSDummy, to search where that parameter is in the KOMBI module.

If these terms mean nothing to you, you will need to have a look at some coding tutorials and learn how to code it yourself (also purchase a DCAN cable and download the BMW software from the bimmergeeks website), get someone to remote code your car for you, or find a local to code it.
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      03-03-2018, 08:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
chris_flies

I saw your PM but figured I will answer here as the information is quite poor on the internet, and everyone wants to profit off the info

Keep the original EEPROM in the 135i cluster

Clear all codes first, then re-read them. Do they still persist?

Your mileage is higher than the 135i cluster, you do not need a new eeprom and you do not need to write your mileage to the eeprom. Since the odometer is stored in the CAS and the KOMBI, it will simply take the highest number and write your mileage to the cluster. The only thing you need to do is to read the data out of the 135i eeprom, edit the VIN to your vin and you are done.

Coding is done via NCSExpert. If you set the profile to expert mode, then perform SG_CODIEREN this will code the cluster according to your VO. If the temperature gauge still tries to show your fuel mileage, you will need to edit that option manually and code the car in 'FSW PSW' profile instead of expert mode. You can use a tool called NCSDummy, to search where that parameter is in the KOMBI module.

If these terms mean nothing to you, you will need to have a look at some coding tutorials and learn how to code it yourself (also purchase a DCAN cable and download the BMW software from the bimmergeeks website), get someone to remote code your car for you, or find a local to code it.
Thank you for answering, and clearing up my confusion!

I have a K-DCAN cable on-the-way, so I’ll be able to code with NCSe. I’ll try clearing the codes, and report back...
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Last edited by chris_flies; 03-03-2018 at 11:43 AM..
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      03-03-2018, 11:48 AM   #29
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vtl I got these codes, after clearing and re-diagnosing twice:
00A3C7 (Air suspension failure)
00A3AA (CAN signal fault transmission)
00A554 (Phone failure)
00A3C0 (trailer module fault)
^^Likely related to VO?
00A3A8 (CAN NO ID)
009317 (EEPROM failure)
00931E (Error-coding data supplier)

Again, thanks for the help!
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      03-03-2018, 04:58 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
vtl I got these codes, after clearing and re-diagnosing twice:
00A3C7 (Air suspension failure)
00A3AA (CAN signal fault transmission)
00A554 (Phone failure)
00A3C0 (trailer module fault)
^^Likely related to VO?
00A3A8 (CAN NO ID)
009317 (EEPROM failure)
00931E (Error-coding data supplier)

Again, thanks for the help!
Sounds like you may not have soldered on the EEPROM back on properly

Some faults will pop up with the wrong coding but air suspension wouldnt be one of them as it came out of a 135i.
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      03-03-2018, 07:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Sounds like you may not have soldered on the EEPROM back on properly

Some faults will pop up with the wrong coding but air suspension wouldnt be one of them as it came out of a 135i.
I'll check then. My soldering skills are basic, but I can at least do a clean job with patience.

Could heat exposure, from the proximity with the iron, damage the chip or surrounding components and cause this?
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      03-03-2018, 09:29 PM   #32
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I've had extensive soldering experience and its unlikely you've cooked the chip. Most likely one of the pins isn't soldered properly, usually you have to clean the pads very thoroughly with solder wick so the part will sit totally flat. If not one of the pins can look soldered but not actually touching.
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      03-04-2018, 08:16 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
I've had extensive soldering experience and its unlikely you've cooked the chip. Most likely one of the pins isn't soldered properly, usually you have to clean the pads very thoroughly with solder wick so the part will sit totally flat. If not one of the pins can look soldered but not actually touching.
That is probably what it is, then! I didn’t know this...

All being added as information on the finished post, and for the DIY thread I’ll be making (with pictures). Thanks again!
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      03-05-2018, 06:31 AM   #34
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Had the brilliant idea to disconnect the battery. All the wacky things that were happening are gone now, and the odometer reads correctly, but still has the tamper dot.

Now, on to coding the cluster to my VO, and recalibrating the needles...and then waiting for my new UP to show up to code the VIN to the EEPROM. Progress is being made...
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      03-05-2018, 08:43 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
Had the brilliant idea to disconnect the battery. All the wacky things that were happening are gone now, and the odometer reads correctly, but still has the tamper dot.

Now, on to coding the cluster to my VO, and recalibrating the needles...and then waiting for my new UP to show up to code the VIN to the EEPROM. Progress is being made...
Still watching this

Also now that you know how to code
http://www.onelapx1.com/blog/how-to-make-your-bmw-actually-fun
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      03-05-2018, 11:08 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
Still watching this

Also now that you know how to code
http://www.onelapx1.com/blog/how-to-...w-actually-fun
Very cool article!

Everything works on the cluster out-of-box (once I stopped fooling around with it, and rebooted the car's systems); oil temp, fuel, tacho, and speedo. I need to shift the gauge needles (the tach reads about 100rpm high, and speedo is about 4 high at 55 and used to be pretty much spot-on).

vtl I assume I'll need to wait to rewrite the VO until I can reprogram the VIN, since NCS keeps giving me errors relating to a non-matching module. What operations do I need to perform in NCS Expert to match the VO in the cluster to that of my car? A brief run down would be extremely helpful...
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      03-05-2018, 12:54 PM   #37
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I found this:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=666729
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      03-05-2018, 01:08 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
Wow...exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!

I've been googling for an hour straight, and never came upon this.
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      03-05-2018, 03:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
Very cool article!

Everything works on the cluster out-of-box (once I stopped fooling around with it, and rebooted the car's systems); oil temp, fuel, tacho, and speedo. I need to shift the gauge needles (the tach reads about 100rpm high, and speedo is about 4 high at 55 and used to be pretty much spot-on).

vtl I assume I'll need to wait to rewrite the VO until I can reprogram the VIN, since NCS keeps giving me errors relating to a non-matching module. What operations do I need to perform in NCS Expert to match the VO in the cluster to that of my car? A brief run down would be extremely helpful...
See my post #27, that is the sequence of steps required to code it. Usually you won't be able to code the KOMBI module unless the VIN matches, NCS will throw an error.
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      03-05-2018, 04:33 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
See my post #27, that is the sequence of steps required to code it. Usually you won't be able to code the KOMBI module unless the VIN matches, NCS will throw an error.
I have the universal programmer now, it is the MiniPro TL886CS. I can't read anything from the EEPROM...
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      03-05-2018, 06:25 PM   #41
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Will need more info. How are you reading the eeprom? Have you removed the chip from the cluster? Are you using a test socket installed the programmer? or are you using a breakout board with the eeprom solderd to the breakout and installed into the programmer
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      03-05-2018, 09:05 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Will need more info. How are you reading the eeprom? Have you removed the chip from the cluster? Are you using a test socket installed the programmer? or are you using a breakout board with the eeprom solderd to the breakout and installed into the programmer
All is fixed...but thanks, though!

Swapping the EEPROM worked! I guess as long as it's the same type, it'll work...

No tamper dot. No faults. All gauges work (I'll test oil temp tomorrow when I can actually drive it to operating temp). No coding required.

If my lengthy test drive(s) tomorrow continue this spout of success, a DIY will follow soon after...
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      03-05-2018, 09:29 PM   #43
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While you can sometimes get away with swapping units without coding it is always good practice to do so, just in case some of the hundreds of coding fields are slightly different to your car.
I would also not think its a great idea to just swap the eeprom across, as that might cause undesirable behaviour that's not immediately apparent.

Glad you got it working though!
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      03-05-2018, 09:36 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
While you can sometimes get away with swapping units without coding it is always good practice to do so, just in case some of the hundreds of coding fields are slightly different to your car.
I would also not think its a great idea to just swap the eeprom across, as that might cause undesirable behaviour that's not immediately apparent.

Glad you got it working though!
We'll see if everything works as desired tomorrow...

I'll be sure to put a little disclaimer at the top of the DIY.
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