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09-19-2019, 09:17 AM | #1 |
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Water Pump
Hey everyone. Let me start by saying this is my first time posting but I’ve been lurking these forums for a little over a year as that’s when I purchased my 128i.
Now, i gotta say I love these forums as someone who didn’t know much of anything about the 1 series prior to purchasing I’ve gotten most of my information from other owners on here. Which brings me to this post. I’m real paranoid with car maintenance as I’ve had some bad experiences in the past with my cars and catastrophic failure. So I’ve been babying the hell out of my 1er with all my maintenance and repairs. I’m the 2nd owner and I got the car at 65k miles(currently at 80k) and I’m honestly not too sure what all was replaced prior to me taking over including the water pump Some of the common issues I’ve seen with this car is the serpentine belt and pulleys so I went ahead and got those replaced recently at 79k miles. My biggest paranoia is the water pump as I’ve seen that’s a fairly common failure on this car. I’ve also seen that it can be a fairly expensive repair ranging anywhere from $1100 to $1800. I’m basically just looking for some advice. I’m not in the best financial situation where I can just fork out over a grand randomly for an issue like this so I’m trying to plan ahead. First, I was looking to see are there ANY signs I could look for that could indicate my water pump is failing? Also, I was just thinking of saving up little by little and purchasing the water pump just to have on hand. Basically should I just go ahead and work on getting the water pump replaced at this point since I’m at 80k miles? Any way to possibly know the water pump is on its way out? Not really sure what the best course of action is tbh. Any advice would be great! P.s This is my first time ever owning a BMW and after originally looking at purchasing a 3 series, I’m incredibly happy I went with the 1er as I absolutely love this car and driving it is a blast. I definitely plan on owning this car for many years to come. Cheers! |
09-19-2019, 09:55 AM | #2 |
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I have 95K on mine and no plans to replace the water pump unless it fails. The performance on n54 and n55 cars seems to be significantly worse than on n52 engines. But the scary thing is there does not seem to be any indication of a failure until the pump has failed. Maybe you get to limp home. Maybe not. I've thought about buying the pump and pieces you need for installation (I think FCP Euro has a kit of parts) but I don't really want to carry them in the car. If it fails close to home I could presumably take them to the mechanic or have the car towed home and do the replacement. But if it fails on a trip and I don't have the parts in the car, I will have wasted the money on the parts. So I continue to do nothing. The postings I've reviewed do not lead me to believe it is just a matter of time on a n52. It is definitely a risk but so is every other part of the car. This one probably more than most parts, however.
The only thing I've had to have it towed and fixed for is the alternator. I have seen zero posts about that failing for others.
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128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport
Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09 |
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09-19-2019, 10:07 AM | #3 | |
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It just sucks that there seems to be no real indication of it getting ready to fail. As you said it could happen while on a trip which would be terrible. It’s good to hear you’re at 90k+ miles without it failing though. I wanted to at least get to 100k without having to worry about it. I can’t help but think about it from time to time though, thanks to my damn paranoia plus before purchasing the car all I would ever hear was how “unreliable” BMW’s are ESPECIALLY buying used. Even had a few friends try to take me out of buying the car. I’m glad I went with it though. I might just work on buying the part to at least have that out of the way for if/when it fails. I know I wouldn’t be able to diy it myself so I’d have to then only pay for labor once I have the part. All in all the car has been almost perfect since I’ve had it. Drives like a dream. Thanks for your input! |
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09-19-2019, 10:16 AM | #4 |
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I'm at 78k miles now and I do plan to replace my water pump proactively when it gets a little cooler. I want to do a full flush of coolant before winter anyway, so I might as well change out the pump, thermostat, and hoses at the same time.
I plan to keep the car until it become unrepairable so I know I'm going to replace all those parts eventually. I might as well do it all now. |
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09-19-2019, 10:26 AM | #5 |
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I'm at 92K miles on my 2011 128i. Water pump is original. I recently replaced the plugs and coils, belt and pulleys, and oil. I still need to do the coolant and trans. No plans to change the water pump.
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09-19-2019, 10:43 AM | #6 |
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I paid something like 550 for my water pump, parts and labor. Find a good local indy and buy the one from FCP Euro if you have a failure, it has a lifetime warranty.
It's also an extremely easy job to do on your own from what I've seen. I think there are only four bolts you need to remove.
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2011 Space Grey 135i DCT:
Pure Stage 2, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, ST XTA Coilovers, Berk Street Axle Back, MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless DP, VRSF 5" FMIC, VRSF LCP, BMS UCP, M3 FSB, e92 M3 Drivers Seat. |
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09-19-2019, 11:12 AM | #7 | |
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Also did the water pump fail on you or did you replace it as preventative maintenance? Thanks for the info! |
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09-19-2019, 11:21 AM | #8 | |
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Did you do the spark plugs yourself? If so was it fairly easy? I bought a set of spark plugs going on 2 months ago but never got around to looking into doing it myself as I’m pretty mechanic illiterate |
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09-19-2019, 07:50 PM | #9 |
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Its an electronic water pump. There are 0 signs of it failing; it just goes. Change it! It's one of the few catastrophic things that can leave you stranded and not worth gambling about.
There's nothing proud about saying one hasn't changed it, considering it's a very very common failure in most BMWs of that era.
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09-20-2019, 06:36 AM | #10 |
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Mine died recently on my 135i with only 46000km (a bit less than 30000 miles).
When it goes your car will get an overheating warning, kill almost all power and basically roll to a stop. The fan will also go crazy. I was able to continue to drive it 2 minutes at a time, then pulling over and shutting off the engine and opening the hood to cool for 5 minutes. This allowed me to get it to my local mechanic. However it was winter with an ambient temperature of maybe 15 degrees Celsius or less. It's a big ask to drop money on a part that isn't yet broken given how expensive it is. Just mentally brace yourself that you might have to fork out the money one day. In hindsight I still wouldn't have spent the money in advance to replaced the part before it died. Anyone can afford to buy a BMW but not everyone can afford to maintain one. |
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09-20-2019, 07:13 AM | #11 |
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The biggest task on the spark plugs is getting all the plastic out of the way. The interior air filter housing has to be removed and there are a fairly high number of fasteners involved. Once you have clear access, the plugs are pretty easy to access. The engine sits fairly far back, for weight distribution, so access to the last couple is not quite as easy but it was not bad - especially in comparison to a V6 or V8. I did not replace the coils. I will wait until I get a mis fire code. Hasn't happened yet.
I don't know what I think about pre-emptive replacements of water pumps. I do not follow that for the battery, mine is original at over a year and 95K miles, because I've had batteries fail really quickly and others last a really long time. My conclusion is there are good ones and bad ones. And if you have a good one, might as well see how good it is. The variability of the water pump lifetime has be wondering is a similar principal might not apply. It also matters how big a deal it is if the car quits on you. The one time it has happened on my bimmer (alternator) I called AAA, had it towed (no charge) to a repair place, they gave me a ride to a car rental place, and I returned the rental and picked up my car at the end of the day. It was not a cheap repair but I had to get to work and it all was fairly painless. I will retire in less than a month and that will reduce any time pressure if it quits on me. I can't see dropping AAA on a car with no spare. As long as I have them, the towing part will normally be free and they also will put in a battery by the side of the road if you need that (you have to buy the battery, of course). My conclusion is that, for me, the car quitting is far from the end of the world. I didn't like it, of course, but it actually was not that big of a deal. But your situation could be different.
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128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport
Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09 |
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09-20-2019, 08:05 AM | #12 | |
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I've spent a packet on new parts since buying it 6 months ago. As long as every drive brings a smile to my face, its money well spent. |
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09-20-2019, 09:52 AM | #13 | |
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11517632426kit That's pretty much where everyone buys it. It isn't just the pump, it's the pump, thermostat, new bolts and anti freeze. If you find an indy, they may even have that stuff for cheaper if they sell it to you at cost + labor. Really shouldn't be more than a 2 hour job for anyone with any knowledge, I think Rob down at Speed Logic knocked mine out in like 30 minutes. Anything over 600 for the full parts plus labor is insane.
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2011 Space Grey 135i DCT:
Pure Stage 2, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, ST XTA Coilovers, Berk Street Axle Back, MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless DP, VRSF 5" FMIC, VRSF LCP, BMS UCP, M3 FSB, e92 M3 Drivers Seat. |
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09-20-2019, 11:15 AM | #14 | |
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As for preventive changing of the water pump, you can, but the fail rate on the 128 is far lower than the 135. There is preventive maintenance, and a waste of money maintenance.
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09-20-2019, 12:38 PM | #15 |
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I did the preemptive water pump on my 08 128i at 70,000 mi earlier this year. I bought the Pierburg I think.
At about the same time the water pump on my Cayman S with 40,000 miles gave up the ghost. The shaft snapped. Only $1,200 for the pump, belt and 2 gallons of Porsche whale sperm infused coolant at $50 a gallon. Maybe i had my priorities wrong.
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09-21-2019, 07:39 AM | #16 |
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I'm at 96k...
This is not my DD either... I have a Route 66 extended warranty package... When I first got the car I knew the water pump/thermo was one of the first maintenance items to take care of(per the forum)... Haven't done it yet, you think I should just wait for it to go and let Route 66 pay for it?(I mean it is why I have the warranty in the first place) |
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09-21-2019, 08:33 AM | #17 | |
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09-24-2019, 04:26 PM | #18 |
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I just replaced my water pump with 170,000 miles on the original part. -2008 128i N51
It had not failed but I did get a code that said it was operating below normal speed. I cleared the code and it didnt come back but I changed the pump after that anyways due to the warnings on the internet. |
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09-25-2019, 12:08 PM | #19 |
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Join BMWCCA (you have 3 chapters in Florida) and, amongst all the benefits, you'll learn where all the really good BMW indy garages are that are competent and would do the job for $600-$700. I also might consider joining AAA and just wait for it to fail. It could be years.
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09-25-2019, 04:54 PM | #20 |
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I'm at 25.5k miles on my 2013 135is, and just had to replace my water pump :/
Didn't think it would go so soon, but it is what it is. Only symptom was a random coolant/temperature overheat error while driving on the highway, then a few minutes later, the car went into Neutral+Limp Mode. Car drove fine after I restarted it, but I brought it in to my indy shop and got the water pump + thermostat replaced at the same time. Interestingly, the tech told me that he's never seen a water pump be replaced twice on the same car. So hopefully I should be good to go from now on! |
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10-07-2019, 09:16 AM | #21 |
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93,000 miles on my 128i, and I ordered all the stuff for the pump/tstat replacement. Now that I'm ready to do the job, I probably won't have to do it for many more miles. My daily 84 mile commute is 85% highway, and lots of cold weather use. I can't imagine a more benign set of conditions for the pump. Two year coolant changes as well.
For anyone who does get a warning and overheat limp, don't push your luck. Call a tow, and be done. No sense adding to your misery by warping a head or blowing a head gasket. |
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