Petros 135i

[Petro135]

More shit. Finally got the right vc bolts from fcp. Was lost in the mail for a week.
Rest of my turbo kit has shipped it will be here wed.
Got manifold on. Everything on the meth kit done except power to the solenoid. I need to get it to the switch under my steering wheel.
Was hell trying to fit 335d coolant tank chargepipe and power steering hoses. Then i found bms makes a chargepipe just for that. So i ordered it. Hopefully will ship fast. Now i have to wait a week to put up the turbo and get this car back together. Will be a long week.
Oh and i put together the PFS dual diy pump.

[Petro135]

The rest of the turbo kit arrived today but unfortunately i had to work. So i had to do something when i got home. Got in a couple hours in before dark.
No directions or any help came with the kit. Being new to the market no youtube either. Maybe ill have to do a diy on it. Just got alot of parts and a pile of bolts. Once sorted out its pretty much common sense. But some sort of guide would be nice.
Anyway block off plugs are a super tight fit. Had to to tap them in with a hammer. And one coolant plug was alot more than a tap. The freeze plug for one of the oil drains i couldnt get in straight, so i went with crooked but in really tight. Hope it holds.
Today i hopefully will have all the parts installed and get my engine back down to proper position so i can tighten everything down without hitting anything.

[houtan]

Looking good.

You interested in a brand new EOS billet top hat with military grade connector? I noticed you are using the two pump set up and The billet top hat is great for that.

[Petro135]

Originally Posted by houtan

Looking good.

You interested in a brand new EOS billet top hat with military grade connector? I noticed you are using the two pump set up and The billet top hat is great for that.

Thanks but im off of buying for a little bit. Think im going for the ford 8.8 conversion. And just found out to do it right its like $4500. Yikes!!

[houtan]

Yeah I totally get it. Looking forward to your progress.

[Petro135]

This kit came with no guide of any kind and its new to the market so no DIY vids yet. A big bag of different kinds of bolts. A big bag of a million hose and vband and tbolt clamps and alot of parts. So after a day of just figuring stuff out. Getting aggrevated, and putting stuff up that i had to take down i figured it out. And today things went differently.
I pulled everything out but the manifold and started over. I put the turbo back together and slid the entire thing while loose up through the subframe. Then used the waterpipe to push it all up at the same time. Bolted in the waterpipe while holding everything with one hand. Then twisted the compressor housing and turbine housing in to place, i pushed it all up and got the vband clamp on. Leaving everything loose i took a couple pics and wrapped it up for the day. So happy i did all this without dropping subframe or any suspension except sway bar. Doc Race told me they did one at the shop with subframe in easily. I had to try.
Next up wastegate and dump tube, downpipe, intake and chargepipes
Busy for a bit so itll have to wait a few days.

[Petro135]

Everything was going according to plan. Then boom! My PR relocated coils no longer fit with new manifold and meth lines. So i had to order the kit to put them back to stock location. Different bracket, shorter wires and a way to clean up the coil harness rail.
So im at stopping point.
Fmic went up easy.
Bms 335d coolant tank chargepipe made relocating everything fit perfectly.
Oil and coolant are in. Just waiting on that kit!!!

[Petro135]

So i had a big set back. After everything was in i thought i saw a single drip of coolant on my waterpipe. So i reached up to make sure pipe was tight and i spun a bolt. So i pulled everything down and this time i pulled the subframe out to reach that bolt easier. The bolt had broken off threads on it. So i ran a tap through it and at the end i cut a few new threads and used a 5mm longer bolt and it went in and got tight.
This kit is 100% easier the 2nd time you put it in. Lol. Everything went up smooth after that and i clocked my turbo a little different this time so my inlet tube and outlets sit better and dont touch at all.
I started her up and got the jb4 2abc and 3100 codes. So i realized i needed to change firmware to ST mac solenoid one and did that. Then flashed ST bef and went to map1(wastegate spring boost only 12psi). Started it up
No codes no leaks!!!! Drove it directly to my friends shop to hook my prometh kit solenoid into my controller on my dash.
Few modifications to the present snow kit i have. Changed the snow pump to a prometh pump which is less psi but flows more meth. Had to change from snow tank line to pump to a larger 3/8" line. Had to drill a couple holes in the meth tank lid. Since my buddy does all my electric work i also brought him my hobbs switch and dbl walbro pump. Let him deal with that.
My car should be up and everything running by next weekend. Even a couple lower boost dyno runs. Cant wait. Just in a quick 5 mile test drive with very light boost it felt like a whole different car and sounds way different too.
Im going with pure evil to do my bef
And rod sutphin to do my trans tuning.

Next up 6hp28 diesel trans conversion and Guru Autoworks trans adapter and trans cooler kit. Im going to be tester for this new kit. I just bought the trans with 59k miles on it and the adapter kit should be here sometime in May

[gtoakley91]

Amazing car, I love the carbon fiber!

[Petro135]

Originally Posted by gtoakley91

Amazing car, I love the carbon fiber!

Thanks. I always wondered if anyone read this stuff. Lol.

So my motor had spun a bearing. I purchased a new motor with 50k miles on it. Came all the way from san diego to NJ. Before they sent it out to deliver to me, they realized it was the wrong motor. So now im waiting for another to come. So its ok im still waiting to get my guru autowerks adapter kit for the 6hp28 trans.
During down time i hooked up the Motive Reflex to my dme. Hooked up the flex fuel box to the dme and to reflex.
Ran 6an line from tank to ethanol sensor and inline filter and up to where my hpfp will be.
Put together the black market parts intake manifold with the 750 injectors.
Put in an lsd conversion in my diff and new diff bushings.
Ran 4an lines for all my turbo/mac/wastegate lines.

Also pulled apart my old engine. Its perfect except that cyl4 bearing poop on the crank. Took it to a local machine shop and they said it should clean no problem. So im gonna build the original motor.
Bought
Cp pistons
Manley rods
King main bearings and rod
Arp head studs

I will pull apart and port the head. But its in such nice condition, i might just change out cams and go with it for now.
I used pure methanol and filled up my intakes. Did a pretty good job cleaning the valves. But i also walnut blasted them just because i bought the shells and sprayer

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by Petro135

Thanks. I always wondered if anyone read this stuff. Lol.

Oh for certain!

[Petro135]

In that last pic i had put all the taps in my dme . reflex install is really not too bad. Had to tap into power wire twice. Once for reflex once for flex fuel. Had to email.motiv and see if thats ok. They said yes, neither draws much power. Ran the flex wire into dme and the reflex wire and ground wires out of box. Had to chop up some rubber underneath.
Sooooo, waiting for engine, waiting for adapter plate for 6hp28 trans. Got nothing to do....... Pulled my old engine apart. Probably mentioned that above somewhere. Sent block off to get cleaned real pretty and cylinders buffed out. Crank went too to get the bearing sludge off cyl 4 . but in the interim i found another crank in perfect shape. So im buying everything to build this now. Bottom 1/2 only.
This is a list of any bolts andnotger stuff to build a bottom 1/2. Most are one time use bolts. Some are aluminum and some are not but are stretched already and need to be replaced.
Vanos cam adjuster bolts(for sprockets)
2-$10.78
Bedplate bolts(for mains)14- $69.86
Timing chain bolt (short) $8.99
Timing chain bolt(long) $13.39
Bedplate bolt set- $24.69
Oil pump bolt set- $20.99
Asa bolts for timing plate- 2- 5.98
2 grip discs- $53.38
Vacuum pump seal- $2.98
Head gasket - $97.49
Drive belt kit-$125.86
Front seal and bedplate sealant kit-$123.25
Sealant injection valve- 2- $11.98
Cam ledge bolts- 29- $54.81
Vacuum pump sprocket bolt- $4.29
Vacuum pump bolts- 3- $9.57
Timing tensioner seal ring- $5.69
Found several of my lifters on exhaust side were soft. 1 was really soft. So 12 lifters-$135.98
Also added 8 torque converter bolts for my present job.
This alone comes to over $800 geez!!!
Also on the purchased list is :
Cp pistons
Manley turbo tuff rods and arp bolts
King main and coated rod bearings
Arp head studs
Im not doing cylinder head now because mine is in such great condition and i dont want to spend the money now. My wife has no idea what this is costing already LMAO!!
New motor coming today!!

[Petro135]

Engine finally came nice clean n54 w 55k miles. Has pretty new sensors, gaskets, index 12 injectors. No leaks whatsoever.
It came off an xi so i needed the new pickup tube, oil pan and gasket. Luckily i had them here.
I walnut blasted it and left a little walnut behind. Scrapped at it with a screwdriver. But im doing a double oil flush before i drive this car. To get out any old metal from the parts from my old engine.
Plugged the ports so i changed the valve cover and gasket
This motor came from a non oil cooler car. So i put on my rebuilt ofh and my adapter for -an lines.
Used my index 12s that my car is coded for and my plugs which have like 150 miles on them.
Also got most of the turbo done. And cleaned up the block a bit.
The place i got the motor crushed cyl6 index 12 injector, the vent tube on the vc, bent a intake stud and broke the plug from the fuel rail off. So i used my old ones. Thats about it. This motor will be ready to drop in the car tomorrow

[tracer bullet]

That's sweet you can get it to go with what you have on hand. Instead of a 10 page to do list and 100 little things to buy.

[Petro135]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

That's sweet you can get it to go with what you have on hand. Instead of a 10 page to do list and 100 little things to buy.

Yea having 2 whole motors and the parts from them sure makes it better than waiting 3 days on fcp to deliver.

So im not gonna lie. Getting this back in by myself was a bear today. I am beat to shit. I had to put a strap on the exhaust manifold and over the hoist crane and jack it up right. The wastegate was too close for comfort. So i took it and the dump pipe off. Got it close, kept shaking it and finally heard it drop over the motor mount bolts. I tightened the mounts then called it a day. Start putting everything back on it tomorrow.

[Petro135]

So it seems these engines are held in mostly by the transmission. As you can see without a tranny on it leans foward and the ps pump pulley lays on the subframe. I had to put the engi e brace back on to hold it up while i finish up.
My trans adapter plate and all that stuff is shipping tomorrow. This hp28 trans since it has a plate between the bell housing and engine the starter has to go on from engine bay. So i have to tap a hole where the one bolt faces the opposite way. Otherwise to pull the starter i would have to drop the trans. Now its just 2 bolts from top side.
Anyway i have to wait for that to get port injection and the manifold on

[Petro135]

Ok so im a sucker for a nice n54. I just bought another with 48k miles and it is super clean.
Now i have a fresh one in my car at 55k miles. This one w 48k miles. And im building my old motor. Oh and i have another block and crank. Dont know why. But i need more cars to put these in now

[Petro135]

This car is done!! But i broke some stuff, so its not done. Lol. The guy josh from guru did not like how tight the -an lines fit on the trans in a 135. Its way tighter in my car than in the 335 he used for the trans adapter prototype. This is the only 135i with a 6hp28 transmission so far. We worked on things that were different from our cars and he is making some modifications to some things for 135 owners who buy his kit. So he is sending me out some 90 degree elbows then ill run straight 8an fittings to them. And i broke the nut that holds the linkage cable in place. Was rusty as hell, so just as well i order a new one. And while i was grinding down -an fittings and my frame rails trying to get the -an lines on this trans i accidently stuck my grinder through the transmission wire harness. Lol!!! I spliced them all back together but since there is canbus wire in there i figured for $40 on ebay ill just buy another. And lucky the one i got ships from like an hour from my house.
I didnt get into the trans pics just a couple because i am going to put up a diy in the diy section on this whole adapter kit. There are directions being made for the kits once the go up for sale but the first tester kits dont have directions. Althought i used speaker phone and spoke with josh a few times while i was under the car. This kit is self explanatory anyway. He sent me a bolt key pic and thats really all you need.
Then after i fix these little issues when my stuff gets here, all i have left is put back heat shield and exhaust. And fill the trans up. And flash a flex tune, a trans tune, fix the sos call malfunction light in protools, then i have to drive the car 5 times under 50% throttle for at least 15 miles so my car learns the transmission. Thats gonna be tough.

[ShocknAwe]

Looking forward to hearing more about the DR bottom mount. Sounds like he phoned it in on install info though if he sent a bag of bolts pipes clamps and hose. Not cool.

What are you doing for the head?

[Petro135]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Looking forward to hearing more about the DR bottom mount. Sounds like he phoned it in on install info though if he sent a bag of bolts pipes clamps and hose. Not cool.

What are you doing for the head?

Honestly i was not impressed with the kit. Missing couplings. Missing whatever holds on the little wastegate jacket. Which i didnt use anyway. Oil feed hose was too short and cheap-an that kinked in seconds. And if you put the oil feed fitting on the turbo pointing towards block so the tiny -an feed line will just barely fit. Then it leaks. It needs to be tighter another 1/2 turn pointing away from the block and a 2ft -an line to wrap around back of turbo then to the block fitting. Then it works.
Should be an -an drain line, but its that blue hose. I wrapped it in heat sleeve. Saw melted pics online. My manifold has already cracked and was welded. In a couple months when engine is done being built i will pull the manifold and send it back for a updated model.
Also 2 manifold studs need to have the heads cut off them to fit the vband on. They dont tell you this. Im sure people have put on the entire manifold up before they realized there is no way to fit a vband clamp on there. I found a first dr700 install video a couple days before install. Luckily or i would have done it too. Anyway thats all behind me. Its fixed its in and im waiting on 2 parts to drive my car. Finally done

As far as the head. My head was in beautiful condition. Everything. Except a few soft lifters on exhaust side. I did buy apr head studs in case i take it off again. But my ledges and bearings are perfect. Valves look brand new with just wiping them with a rag and some brake cleaner. Since all valves were closed i stood the head on its side and filled the ports with pure meth . Next day sprayed them out with brake cleaner and were sparkling clean.That head and cams stuff is expensive. Im on the fence what i should do. Dont want to spend $4k on it but if i do it im gonna do it right. But if the motor i just put in runs well. I will have time to do the head. Just dont want to spend it now. Lol.
Im moving to SC in less than 2 months. Thats why i changed from meth to port. Gotta focus on my car making it down there.Lol

[Petro135]

Well no pics but i finally finished everything. This week was trying my patients. Got everything in. Had several fuel leaks. Waited for days for a new sending unit. The fuel stinger was not staying in place. So got that put it in. Then i was leaking at the port injection T. Turns out the precision racing stinger is 5/16" and i had a 3/8" fitting on it to the 6-an line. So waited for that. Then i saw my turbo oil drain leaking. But that was an easy fix. Adding an additional clamp. Then once i started it i had a tranny -an libe leaking and the both sides of my ethanol sensor and inline filter. These are all the -an lines i made. Lol. Almost everyone leaked. Turns out i wasnt banging the metal sleeve down enough to make them seal right. Then finally started it and filled the tran the rest of the way. Changed the cheap oil i used to flush the system twice to motul. Put in a new filter and started it again. Mixed up o2 sensors. Switched the 2 plugs on top of the motor. Started it again and ran it for 10 min. No codes!!!!! Its finally ready to drive!!!! Tomorrow i take it off jackstands. Put the front tires on. Put the front vbraces on and its time to test out new motor and new trans . i got tons of logs coming up for trans tune, since it is brand new tune never loaded in a car before and im sure some bugs to work out. And i gotta get some e85 and test and log for flex tune. But its finally done.
The Misfire Racing pinned crank hub came in today. Its pretty!!!
Engine building to commence soon

[Petro135]

So I came here to put up my final thoughts and say that this thread is over until next spring a few days ago and I deleted it and figured I'd wait until I had some good logs to add.
Ran into a fueling issue. The plastic bracket for the 2 lines that refill the bucket broke somehow. And my fuel was starving. Since I didn't have another bracket(actually I did I have 2empty buckets here). But I was being impatient. I cut up the bucket and made a bucket less and pulled the venturi out. Now I run fine hpfp/lpfp are exactly at the psi they should be at.
With that said I went to get my first 18 psi log since I went single and I heard a tick. And went home and found much sparkles in my oil filter. So much for junkyard motors. Got 500 miles out of this one.
So screw that I'm not giving up. Got my block and crank back from machine shop. All the parts are here to build this motor. I'm gonna go stock head for now because I have no time to source the work and my machine shop is backed up 40 motors. So here we go. I hope to be installing this in a week .
This is my last run at the n54. If this doesn't work out my car is getting an LS swap. I have 3 built cheap LS motors to choose from locally.
Btw I got 7 out of 12 wrist pin c-clips in and my thumbs are bruised. Can't do anymore I ordered the tool.