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      08-19-2016, 11:22 AM   #67
tjswarbrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkullV View Post
To the right, which I believe is the side marked left on the alignment sheet (and does have more neg camber).
And a lot more Toe - could be causing it?
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      08-19-2016, 05:53 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
And a lot more Toe - could be causing it?
Toe is almost the same on the "after" measurements. You might have been looking st the top. I ended up doing the front struts today and found a cracked passenger side mount and a pretty slow drivers side strut. It's back at the alignment shop now so hopefully this will be the end of it.
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      08-19-2016, 06:36 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkullV View Post
Toe is almost the same on the "after" measurements. You might have been looking st the top. I ended up doing the front struts today and found a cracked passenger side mount and a pretty slow drivers side strut. It's back at the alignment shop now so hopefully this will be the end of it.
Check your tie rods as well if you have damage on that side and steering issues.
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      12-23-2016, 08:18 AM   #70
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what do you guys think about enlarging (or even re-drilling) the holes to have more camber?

say 2-3 degrees?
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      12-23-2016, 08:46 AM   #71
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I think I'd get camber plates and/or M3 control arms.
Wouldn't want to weaken the mounting area.

Plus - that's a little much for the street.
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      12-23-2016, 07:13 PM   #72
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1.5 - 2.5 is good for street. Not sure id want more than that.
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      05-13-2017, 06:21 PM   #73
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Does anybody know if the bolts that are "fixed" on the Dinan plates are interchangeable with the ones that are on the stock shock mounts?

Reason I'm asking is I have gotten DInan plates as part of a deal from here in the forums, but they are "only" the plates, no bolts on them. I bought the other set of bolts and nuts that originally came with the Dinan plates but the plates, themselves, are bare.

I hope that makes sense. Seems like the plates I have are useless then...
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      09-03-2017, 05:02 PM   #74
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Just did it. Was as easy as advertised using the hammer and chisel on the top, then drilling out the remainder. Not sure how much more camber I got (amount moved at the top was small). I was -1.1 and -0.8 before I started. I got more movement out of the passenger side so I hope I am closer to -1.3 or so on each side. My rears are -1.5 and eyeballing it they look very close to them now. Car drives straight and still wants to stay centered so toe is still in. This will have to do until I budget for some Vorshlags!
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      01-10-2018, 11:05 AM   #75
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The pictures of what you are doing don't work anymore, is there a link to a page where I can see pictures of this process?
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      02-04-2018, 12:28 PM   #76
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Just checked and mine still seem to be in place. Should be removing them this week. Anyone have working pics for this procedure ?
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      02-15-2018, 08:21 PM   #77
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There are extensions for both firefox and chrome that will get the pics back. I've been using Photobucket Hotlink Fix since The Change, and it's been perfect.

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/fir...hotobucket-fix
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...alioapbifiaedg
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      02-28-2018, 08:27 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
Does anybody know if the bolts that are "fixed" on the Dinan plates are interchangeable with the ones that are on the stock shock mounts?

Reason I'm asking is I have gotten DInan plates as part of a deal from here in the forums, but they are "only" the plates, no bolts on them. I bought the other set of bolts and nuts that originally came with the Dinan plates but the plates, themselves, are bare.

I hope that makes sense. Seems like the plates I have are useless then...

Not sure what you are saying here. The bolts on the Dinan plates are specic too the their design.

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      05-28-2018, 12:14 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Not sure what you are saying here. The bolts on the Dinan plates are specic too the their design.

I have the same dilemma. Plates I bought had the studs discarded... which I believe is the other guys question. He, as well as I, is(am) wondering if the studs pressed out of the top hat of the OEM strut can be used on the plates.

I haven't gotten a definitive yes or no, and Dinan is reluctant to respond to any inquiry for replacement hardware.
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      05-28-2018, 03:12 PM   #80
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Are you talking about the flat headed hex screws? Those come with the kit. Those screw it down. You can source some at Lowe's Depot or Fastenall most likely. . Let me know if you need to know the specs.

Have you tried just calling the customer service line?
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      10-07-2018, 10:57 PM   #81
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Hey guys, I just installed ST V1 coilovers.
Front left camber = -.9*. Front right camber = -1.2*.(homemade camber gauge with Craftsman digital level).

Then I drilled out the alignment PIN and pushed it inward all the way.
Buttoned up and lowered car. Drive it back and forth several times in the garage. My problem is camber didn't change after pin taken off. It remained the same. And now steering wheel is bit off to the right.
I'd like to get the fronts to -1.5*. And ST suspension dropped to 1.5" in the front too.
Anyone know why the pin delete didn't do squat?
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      10-08-2018, 02:17 PM   #82
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Bump anyone?
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      10-21-2018, 06:40 PM   #83
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast4 View Post
Bump anyone?
Removing the pin doesn't add much camber if any noticeable camber but it can throw your alignment off.

So I found some bootleg SPC camber kit that looks like it uses the same parts at the SPC kit for $150 I was going to try it but it's really overkill for me and I hear the legit Ground Control and SPC kits can be noisy. Someone with a better garage should test these out...



[IMG]http://www.**********s.com/zoom_img/_1491914711.jpg[/IMG]
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      04-06-2020, 07:22 PM   #84
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Bumping an old thread is something I'm def enjoying lately!

So I just popped out to look at mine and it appears the passenger side has had the pin popped, drivers side is intact. I'm guessing a previous owner had an alignment and the shop did so to achieve the correct numbers? Though this would surprise me as I'd figure if the car is stock, the pins shouldn't need to be popped unless you're physically looking for more camber or adding for performance sake.

Also, when you loosen the bolts and pop the pins with the wheels off the ground, do you move the strut by pushing on the three bolts or actually reach your hand thru and try and push the top of the mount?? I figure it's not done by pushing the wheels itself so..

I'm a suspension dumbass with this one so I'm learning
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      05-16-2023, 06:08 PM   #85
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Bringing this back from the past… how do I do this on mine? Is there adjustment in this strut tower bar?
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      05-16-2023, 07:16 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigZ88 View Post
Is there adjustment in this strut tower bar?
Attachment 3182730
Your pins might already be gone to have installed that?
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      05-16-2023, 09:07 PM   #87
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Quote:
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Your pins might already be gone to have installed that?
No clue! Can’t see them!
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      05-17-2023, 07:38 AM   #88
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Normally they stick up and they'd be in the way.

One way to find out - undo some bolts and have a look.
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